Front and Rear Diff fluid change
- Thread starter Mijfwb23
- Start date
ElectroBoy
Banned
Hmmmm... That must be what I saw with my rear diff fill plug. The washer was seized up tight to the bolt. I couldn’t figure out why since the drain bolt washer came right off its bolt. I had to put the fill bolt in a vise and use a thin small screwdriver blade like a chisel and pound it with a hammer on its edge to break it free.
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kenwilliams0803
New member
Well, cleaner but I wouldn't say clean. Now the front will usually look pretty darn clean.
gear oil types
OK Here's my experience / take on lube types for the trans case..I bought a brand new 2011 trail and changed the lube with Amsoil 75w/90 with the diff's and trans case. I put 114000 miles on that truck with no problems,but it was always a little hard to get in to low range. But it always worked and never let me down..2 months ago I bought a brand new 2019 trail and haven't changed lubes yet..I was amazed how easy it shifted in to low range. My thinking now is Amsoil gear lubes for the diff's,but sticking with the Toyota 75w lube for the trans case. Those are my facts,but I'm not calming anything about lube types,brands or weights.
OK Here's my experience / take on lube types for the trans case..I bought a brand new 2011 trail and changed the lube with Amsoil 75w/90 with the diff's and trans case. I put 114000 miles on that truck with no problems,but it was always a little hard to get in to low range. But it always worked and never let me down..2 months ago I bought a brand new 2019 trail and haven't changed lubes yet..I was amazed how easy it shifted in to low range. My thinking now is Amsoil gear lubes for the diff's,but sticking with the Toyota 75w lube for the trans case. Those are my facts,but I'm not calming anything about lube types,brands or weights.
ElectroBoy
Banned
Looks like honey. :thumb3:
I wonder why the OEM oil looks so bad at the first change. Is it dino oil, not synthetic, so it gets dark with heat cycling? No combustion byproducts in there. Maybe it chemically is still OK, but it sure looks dirty and gritty.
Tuco S.
New member
My guess is the discoloration is caused by the black paste that ends up on the drain plug magnet. Possibly some kind of break-in or lapping material.
2016 4Runner SR5
Senior Member
That black paste is metal filings. It's material from the gears and bearings. Normal to find super fine metal dust that looks like paste. I intended on changing mine at 10K to get all that out of there but ended up doing it at 11K just because that's what time allowed for. Either way, good to get all that out of the diff.
Georgiey22
New member
Own a 2016 and my rear diff fill bolt is rounded out. A 12 point 24mm socket was the issue. Cant locate the part number for this bolt. Can someone share this with me? Thank you!
ElectroBoy
Banned
Here’s another of the many threads on this topic with the info you need.
Changing Differential & Transfer Case Fluids - Pics Included
Looks like PN: Rear Differential Fill Plug 90341-18006
Good luck. Let us know how you accomplish the removal.
2016 4Runner SR5
Senior Member
Not sure if this is something new on the market or just the first I'm seeing it. I have yet to see it anywhere on the forum though. It looks like it could be pretty useful. I picked one up so we'll see when it's oil change time.
Motivx Tools Oil Filter drain tool for Toyota, Lexus, Scion 2.5L - 5.7L Engines 851808006196 | eBay
YouTube link to a video of someone using it. Guy is long winder with extra useless info so skip to 3:40 to see it in action.
YouTube
Motivx Tools Oil Filter drain tool for Toyota, Lexus, Scion 2.5L - 5.7L Engines 851808006196 | eBay
YouTube link to a video of someone using it. Guy is long winder with extra useless info so skip to 3:40 to see it in action.
YouTube
1000MPH
Senior Member
I posted on the oil change megathread. I like it but I ditched the tubing.
https://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-...-lots-pics-20.html?highlight=tool#post2880227
https://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-...-lots-pics-20.html?highlight=tool#post2880227
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headpaneer
New member
I hadn't seen this before. Thanks for posting!
The 4Runner oil change procedure doesn't bother me unlike many people but I have always found dealing with the little plastic drain fitting to be the biggest PITA of the process.
2016 4Runner SR5
Senior Member
I agree, doesn't bother me either. I actually like the canister filter better. I like that I can look at the filter media and make sure there is nothing on it besides oil. With aftermarket skids like the RCI skid, there is a window so you don't have to drop the skid to change the oil. When reaching through the window on the skid to remove that plastic thing from the filter housing, you're all but guaranteed to smash your wrist on the skid when it finally pops out lol. This should alleviate that all together.
So I just changed out my front and rear diff fluids yesterday with only 18K miles and I'm glad I did cause they were both nasty. The rear was the worse, very dark in color almost black with a minimal amount of metallic shavings on the magnet both front and rear. Replaced fluids with Mobile-1 75W-90.
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BTO
Member
You used Synchromax? That fluid is for manual transmissions and is as thin as 30 wt motor oil. Definitely nowhere near the viscosity of 75 wt gear oil. I'm not doubting it's working for you. How often do you 4 wheel? How easy is it to get in and out of low range? Are you concerned about wear?
STX4Runner
New member
It's working fine and I four wheel plenty. It's listed as an equivalent to Toyota LF gear oil by Royal Purple as well as working in transfer cases and I know several others run it. I did this over 1 year ago and have probably 10,000 miles on it now. No problems. You can also use Ravenol MTF-3 synthetic.
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Finally got around to changing differential oil, T-case oil, and greased the driveline yesterday. Used Mobil 1 75W-90 in the diffs, and Toyota LF 75W in the T-case.
Everything went smoothly aside from bashing the back of my hand while breaking loose the rear diff fill plug, and accidentally putting the T-case fill washer on the front diff fill plug... caught that mistake after filling the T-case and luckily the aluminum washer wasn’t the least bit deformed after using it on the wrong plug.
Measured the leftover Mobil 1 and Toyota LF oil once I was done, and both were within one ounce of factory fill specs.
Contrary to what some others have found, I was quite surprised about how clean my oil looked, especially given almost 90K miles on it. There was a bit of metal paste on the drain plug magnets, but the clarity of the oil was quite good. The T-case oil essentially looked like the new oil I put in. Diff oil was definitely a different color, but that may be because Mobil 1 75W90 is very light in color. Of course, the condition is simply a guess without a proper UOA!
Everything went smoothly aside from bashing the back of my hand while breaking loose the rear diff fill plug, and accidentally putting the T-case fill washer on the front diff fill plug... caught that mistake after filling the T-case and luckily the aluminum washer wasn’t the least bit deformed after using it on the wrong plug.
Measured the leftover Mobil 1 and Toyota LF oil once I was done, and both were within one ounce of factory fill specs.
Contrary to what some others have found, I was quite surprised about how clean my oil looked, especially given almost 90K miles on it. There was a bit of metal paste on the drain plug magnets, but the clarity of the oil was quite good. The T-case oil essentially looked like the new oil I put in. Diff oil was definitely a different color, but that may be because Mobil 1 75W90 is very light in color. Of course, the condition is simply a guess without a proper UOA!
