Going Bigger - 5th Gen Tire Fitment Guide

[Seattle206]

Thanks for the helpful post.

Intended just for light offroading. I was hoping to find a tire that would fill the the fender dimensions more because the stock wheel and tire setup just doesn't look right. I think of mashmellows when i look at the vehicle from the side. With the wheels I'm going to get they are an ET -10 which stick out towards the flare by 1.5" more than stock.

Define "filled" please? Wider to fill the fender out to the flares or taller to fill the fender dimensions? It would also help to know what your intended purpose is. Light off roading? Mall crawling? Hardcore rock crawling? I was really impressed with the look and handling of a set of Cooper Zeon LTZ's I had on my 2011 Tundra. They were light truck sport tires and handled very well and quietly on the long highway drives I make to and from work. But they had a little more aggressive tread block design for light off roading. I'm currently running General Grabber AT2's because they resemble the A/T tread pattern of the BFG KO at roughly half the price and have a 60,000 mile tread life. But they are not great MUD or ROCK tires.

Wider will be more impacted by your wheel width and back spacing as well as the tire width. But any widening that pushes the outer rim out more than 1" will also likely require some minor trimming even with 265's in any A/T pattern.

Taller will make it look more "filled", but will also likely require trimming in the front and back fender areas.

I originally went with the 1.75" front you have. My 265/70-17 Grabbers on an 8" rim with 4.5" backspacing had a slight rub on the left front fender at full right lock in reverse. Not enough to hurt anything, but enough to alarm my wife whenever she heard the grumble. So I'm thinking your wheel combo may do the same. Here are pictures before I added Spydertrax spacers that finally forced me to do the trim job.

 

[AudiTech]

After I wear through the stock 20's I'm going to do the TRD wheels shown below. And I'm thinking 275/70/17. I want bigger meatier looking tires when I do it. I'm not going to be rock crawling but off road trails, fire roads, dirt roads, unpaved mountain passes on a regular basis. I'm thinking K02s, but I'm open to input, I'm also not sure if I should do C or E rating. I have no plans on lifting the truck and I'm sticking with the XREAS until it craps out. I'm also ditched the side steps and I'm running OEM mudlfaps (without them the bikes on the hitch mount always got sprayed with crap off the rear wheels). Based on this FAQ and I'm pretty certain I won't have issues with rubbing or having to cut or modify anything. Am I missing anything? Also I've dug around a bit but haven't been able to find a consensus or tire pressures for LT tires or higher load ratings?

So 2011 Limited, mud flaps, stock suspension, TRD wheels, 275/70/17, mostly on road with a fair share of offroad/unpaved/fireroad, aggressive looking tread pattern, long life if possible.

Is there anything obvious that I'm missing?

 

[Randyman...]

I'm thinking K02s, but I'm open to input, I'm also not sure if I should do C or E rating. {snip} Is there anything obvious that I'm missing?

Just the silly fact that BFG doesn't offer 275/70/17's in C Load Range Those would be my perfect tire. E's are all that is offered in 275 KO2 (and KO for that matter).

I'm in your same boat - want to jump on the TRD Wheels and would like the KO2 275's if I do, but I'm a bit reluctant to live with E's. I'd also prefer a 7.5" or 8" wide wheel with a bit more offset

I actually had a set of KO 265 E's installed by accident (tire shop's mistake / Ordered C's, they installed E's without my knowledge), and didn't like the extra weight compared to the identical set of worn-out KO 265 C's I was replacing. I had them swap the E's for the C's I actually ordered a few days later. At approx 8.5lbs difference per tire - that's not a small amount of unsprung weight for the set.

But then, I believe the TRD wheels are lighter than the stock SR5 wheels I'm running now (with Spidertrax) - so not sure how the overall weight difference stacks up against stock (centrifugal force and inertia also comes into play for highway handling @ ~75MPH , and the E's weight is obviously on the outer edge of the circumference where the wheel's weight savings will be closer inward with less centrifugal effects)

"Looks" are a strong motivator - so maybe one day I'll compromise form (275's in E for looks) over function (265's in C for a better matched tire to my driving needs without the drawbacks of E's).

Argh - BFG - Just offer 275/70/17 in C load range, please!!! :bash:

 

[AlexinWC]

Argh - BFG - Just offer 275/70/17 in C load range, please!!! :bash:

Agreed. I wouldn't have spent the past month researching tires if they made those. The amount of time I could have saved...

 

[USKTog]

After I wear through the stock 20's I'm going to do the TRD wheels shown below. And I'm thinking 275/70/17. I want bigger meatier looking tires when I do it. I'm not going to be rock crawling but off road trails, fire roads, dirt roads, unpaved mountain passes on a regular basis. I'm thinking K02s, but I'm open to input, I'm also not sure if I should do C or E rating. I have no plans on lifting the truck and I'm sticking with the XREAS until it craps out. I'm also ditched the side steps and I'm running OEM mudlfaps (without them the bikes on the hitch mount always got sprayed with crap off the rear wheels). Based on this FAQ and I'm pretty certain I won't have issues with rubbing or having to cut or modify anything. Am I missing anything? Also I've dug around a bit but haven't been able to find a consensus or tire pressures for LT tires or higher load ratings?

So 2011 Limited, mud flaps, stock suspension, TRD wheels, 275/70/17, mostly on road with a fair share of offroad/unpaved/fireroad, aggressive looking tread pattern, long life if possible.

Is there anything obvious that I'm missing?

Sort of in the same mode; have done a TON of research.

My thinking is to find wheels I like that are solid, capable of good load, but also weigh less than typical rims. If I can offset tire weight with wheels that are a bit less, I won't sacrifice much. I'm leaning towards the Cooper AT/3. Those tires in load C are 47 lbs; those tires in load E are 54 lbs.

Most load C tires are 6-ply tires from what I have seen (though I fully admit I am by NO means a tire expert. lol) whereas load E are 10-ply tires. As much as I would love to run load C tires for the lower air pressure required for normal air pressure, I'm thinking the 10-ply tires are going to give me more peace of mind when I am out getting myself up those remote photography locations I look for!

Eventually I'll figure out what I'm doing and actually make a decision! LOL

Good luck!

 

[1engineer]

Sort of in the same mode; have done a TON of research.

My thinking is to find wheels I like that are solid, capable of good load, but also weigh less than typical rims. If I can offset tire weight with wheels that are a bit less, I won't sacrifice much. I'm leaning towards the Cooper AT/3. Those tires in load C are 47 lbs; those tires in load E are 54 lbs.

Most load C tires are 6-ply tires from what I have seen (though I fully admit I am by NO means a tire expert. lol) whereas load E are 10-ply tires. As much as I would love to run load C tires for the lower air pressure required for normal air pressure, I'm thinking the 10-ply tires are going to give me more peace of mind when I am out getting myself up those remote photography locations I look for!

Eventually I'll figure out what I'm doing and actually make a decision! LOL

Good luck!

Only real way to offset tire weight is to go with some Rays wheels. Great wheel.

 

[Pkniland]

I might be missing something but I just installed 275/70/17 E. I have noticed very little difference from stock. Where I notice them the most is turning the wheel when stopped, and even then there barely is any difference. Going from a p to e rated tire was not the night and day expireience I was fearful of.

 

[Jhalko]

After I wear through the stock 20's I'm going to do the TRD wheels shown below. And I'm thinking 275/70/17. I want bigger meatier looking tires when I do it. I'm not going to be rock crawling but off road trails, fire roads, dirt roads, unpaved mountain passes on a regular basis. I'm thinking K02s, but I'm open to input, I'm also not sure if I should do C or E rating. I have no plans on lifting the truck and I'm sticking with the XREAS until it craps out.

So 2011 Limited, mud flaps, stock suspension, TRD wheels, 275/70/17, mostly on road with a fair share of offroad/unpaved/fireroad, aggressive looking tread pattern, long life if possible.

Think about the stock "265" size when you go to the 17" wheel. I was snowshoeing in the foothills recently and got back to my truck, on one side was an FJ with BFG KO's and on the other side was a 5th gen SR5 with Duratrac's. When I looked I thought, "Wow, that 4Runner is stock with 285's and the FJ must have 275's" when I read the labels both were just 265's. The treads are so aggressive they look bigger than you expect... A C load is nice on the rocks here, E load is probably overkill for your driving.

 

[3sash3mi]

Newbie Question about 2015 SR5 wheels/tires

I am new at this. So please bear with me. I was thinking of changing out the wheels and tired of my 2015 SR5 premium. I saw the fitment guide so I am trying to go by it. But I am little unclear about the process of selecting wheels. Currently I am thinking of

1. Gray TRD wheels and Nitto Terra Grappler AT (P 265 /70 R17 113S SL BSW). Here I may just change the wheels first for now.

2. Level 8 Tracker (8 X9 6-139.70 0 SLPOXX) with Nitto Terra Grappler G2 (275 /65 R18 116T XL BSW)

Will any of these combos have any rubbing issue? Would love to hear any advice anybody may have on these.

Many Thanks
deep

 

[3wbdriver]

Option one should fit with no issues. Possibly some minor trimming of front fender lip.

Option 2 will probably require the front fender lip mod and possibly a mudflap mod.

You really won't know until you do the deed. But the first option will keep you closest to your factory setup.

 

[3sash3mi]

Many thanks for responding. Next question from me would what exactly fender lip mod and mud flap mod consist of? Removing, cutting things? How easy are they do DIY?

Thanks much
deep

 

[3wbdriver]

Many thanks for responding. Next question from me would what exactly fender lip mod and mud flap mod consist of? Removing, cutting things? How easy are they do DIY?

Thanks much
deep

Pictured here: http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/150779-falls-lift-questions.html

Some trimming of the front fender lip is also involved. When I finally got around to doing mine I figured out it could be easily cut with a box cutter/utility knife. Just turn the wheels to identify where there is contact and trim for clearance. You just kind of shave the edge of them down a little.

The mudflap mod has 2 different options. Some simply remove the front mud flap. I identified where my tires were touching, marked and removed the flaps, cut them with the same knife, and reinstalled them. I now have a 2" x 2" opening in them up in the fender well, but I like the way they look on the 4R so I left them in place.

There is a lot of information stickied in the Mods and FAQ thread on the main 5th Gen page.

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/92594-modifications-write-ups-quick-links-faqs.html

 

[3sash3mi]

Thank you so much. Let me look at those links.

deep

 

[AudiTech]

I ended up ordering the TRD wheels in gray yesterday, I'm going to call tire rack and get 275 K02s, I'll just go pick them up friday rather than pay shipping.

 

[Jhalko]

I ended up ordering the TRD wheels in gray yesterday, I'm going to call tire rack and get 275 K02s, I'll just go pick them up friday rather than pay shipping.

Post pics when they are on!!!

 

[AudiTech]

Will do.

Also in case anyone is interested, I've read lots of conflicting info about LT tires and pressures, this was my quick conversation with BFG, straight from the horses mouth:

Me - My truck came stock with P245/60/20 107H tires and the recommended tire pressure of 32 psi all the way around. I'm switching to 17 wheels and going with a sightly bigger tire. I'm planning on buying a set of LT275/70/17 K02s which have a load rating of E. What would be the appropriate tire pressure to run switching to your E rated LT tires?

BFG - We would recommend the PSI on the new LT275/70R17 to be 35 front and 35 rear.

Me - I'm not doubting or disputing your advice but out of curiosity how did you come up with 35 psi? What is the reasoning/criteria that lead you to that pressure? Thank you for the input.

BFG - Your OE tires carried 1973 lbs per tire at 32 PSI. Your new tires carry 2000 lbs per tire at 35 PSI. So if you lower the PSI any you do not meet the load requirements set by Toyota. Hopefully that clears up your question. If not give us a call at the number below and we can discuss it more detail. We appreciate your business and thank you for choosing BFGoodrich.

 

[Randyman...]

BFG - Your OE tires carried 1973 lbs per tire at 32 PSI. Your new tires carry 2000 lbs per tire at 35 PSI. So if you lower the PSI any you do not meet the load requirements set by Toyota. Hopefully that clears up your question.

Agreed 100% if matching stock load-capacity is your singular concern.

BFG seemed to be saying "you need +3 PSI to maintain stock load capabilities of the P-Metric tires", and didn't seem to imply "don't go beyond 35PSI if you want a better on-road experience with superior handling and better MPG with minimal pre-mature center-wear"

I love my KO 265 C-Loads @ 40-41PSI on-road. Easily got 55K Miles from my last set on this T4R (might have lost 5K miles due to pre-mature center wear, but the handling and MPG benefits are worth it IMO).

 

[jicko]

Ordered TRD Black wheels @ $159each, they are arriving next Tues.

Next up is probably some KO2. I think I am kind of convinced by you guys to go with LRC, so 265/70R17 LRC it is. Local discount tires are willing to take $100off when I order 4 at $225 a pop.

Now, where do I find out what's the appropriate tire pressure to run? 35psi? 40psi? 45psi?

Lastly, if I am buying new wheels and new tires..... do I need to buy TPMS components for each tire!?!?!?!??!

 

[Randyman...]

Ordered TRD Black wheels @ $159each, they are arriving next Tues.

Might not be too far behind you @ Mooney might be aware of something to wait for (and it does not involve the number 7), and I might just hold off a little longer...

Now, where do I find out what's the appropriate tire pressure to run? 35psi? 40psi? 45psi?

Like posted above, you'll need 34-35PSI for a LRC tire to match the stock load carrying capabilities of the stock P-Metrics.

I find 35PSI to be too spongy to my liking for highway driving. I prefer 40PSI for a more solid link to the road and the associated MPG improvements.

But also as mentioned, I experienced minimal premature center-wear after 55K miles @ 40-41PSI (was noticeable around 45K miles). I'd bet I easily saved more $ in gas than the equivalent "cost per mile" lifespan discrepancy from 41PSI to 35PSI.

Lastly, if I am buying new wheels and new tires..... do I need to buy TPMS components for each tire!?!?!?!??!

I believe the stock 17" TPMS sensors are a direct-fit for the TRD Wheels...

ENJOY!!! :bravo:

 

[jicko]

I believe the stock 17" TPMS sensors are a direct-fit for the TRD Wheels...

ENJOY!!! :bravo:

I am trying to sell my brand new SR5 wheels and tires...... so I won't be extracting the TPMS sensors from them.....

That means, I would need to go and find new/used sensors! :Cry: