mugenrios2k
Member
Lol. Im lurking. Looking for mods to do to my 2016 im getting tomorrow
...got bass?
- Thread starter rigtec
- Start date
rigtec
New member
rigtec
New member
Gotta remember... a great sub is a combination of the driver and box; which must be matched for the unit to work. I do like the driver that you've posted however, our doors/tailgate offer no 'fixed volume of air' to control the cone; not a good environment for any subwoofer. Bottom line... "ALL great subs need a properly sized/tuned box for it to work right!" Rgds
mugenrios2k
Member
Model the driver in a 10L sealed (but very leaky box)
That will approximate a TB in the back gate door.
I use base box pro to simulate.
I am reinstalling the software right now im curious to see how they would perform in the back door.
mugenrios2k
Member
Ok here we go. TB6" drivers granted these are not really sub woofers but do perform really well for there size.
However I have used these in a home application he had 10 of these on each side of his big projector screen in a vented enclosure and could go all the way to 15Hz with out over excursion or thermal. it could cause physical pain at the main viewing position we got his system to hit 134dB at 35 hz.
ok on to 4 runner application
all numbers do not include "cabin gain" effects
The Orange graph is for one TB6 in each hatch location in a very large enclosure modeled as very Leaky
Typical roll off for this situation 100 watts RMS ( 50 each) down to about 48hz falling to about 18 watts at 30 hz
cone excursion is good across the board
amplitude is at 100 watts rms but abvisouly head unit will not put out this much power at these Fq
Blue graph is same as orange but with a true enclosure and vented.
No to bad for a dual 6" setup. a light fiberglass box could be built like this and attached to door.
thermally/electrically good at 100 watts RMS all the way down to 25Hz
Above 28Hz +100dB not to bad for 2 6" drivers
REd graph is 4 TB6" in vented enclsoure. If you are gogin to build a box for 2 ( blue graph) might as well go for 4 right
200watts capable all the way down to 30 hz
105 dB at 30 hz
Again not a "super sub" so not going to be able to produce lots of DB below Fs ( unless you are using a lot of them)
Cone will never over drive in any case shown
However I have used these in a home application he had 10 of these on each side of his big projector screen in a vented enclosure and could go all the way to 15Hz with out over excursion or thermal. it could cause physical pain at the main viewing position we got his system to hit 134dB at 35 hz.
ok on to 4 runner application
all numbers do not include "cabin gain" effects
The Orange graph is for one TB6 in each hatch location in a very large enclosure modeled as very Leaky
Typical roll off for this situation 100 watts RMS ( 50 each) down to about 48hz falling to about 18 watts at 30 hz
cone excursion is good across the board
amplitude is at 100 watts rms but abvisouly head unit will not put out this much power at these Fq
Blue graph is same as orange but with a true enclosure and vented.
No to bad for a dual 6" setup. a light fiberglass box could be built like this and attached to door.
thermally/electrically good at 100 watts RMS all the way down to 25Hz
Above 28Hz +100dB not to bad for 2 6" drivers
REd graph is 4 TB6" in vented enclsoure. If you are gogin to build a box for 2 ( blue graph) might as well go for 4 right
200watts capable all the way down to 30 hz
105 dB at 30 hz
Again not a "super sub" so not going to be able to produce lots of DB below Fs ( unless you are using a lot of them)
Cone will never over drive in any case shown
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I don't think you could fabricate a box to fit in the hatch and still be able to roll down the window. And without a box, there is enough hardware in the hatch that it would rattle way to much for those drivers to ever work and sound decent.
mugenrios2k
Member
The "real" enclosure would be on the front face of the hatch but secured to the metal structure under neath the plastic panel.
I have no doubt i could make auch a box. But unless one is looking fo a trick box that looks oem a small.box secured in the cargo area would be the smpler solution.
I have no doubt i could make auch a box. But unless one is looking fo a trick box that looks oem a small.box secured in the cargo area would be the smpler solution.
rigtec
New member
Hang on there bro, I'm on your side :hatsoff: lol! ... and no need to defend the driver...
It's the application that will potentially cause SQ problems! What I'm saying to you is, ALL subwoofer drivers depend on their inner chamber's surrounding environment to support the way that they were designed to operate. Heavy bracing in very low freq boxes prevent the cabinet walls from Sympathizing, moving and resonating along with the speaker cone; which will attempt to mimic the low frequency waves generated by the driver.
This condition also creates massive distortion or phase anomalies in close proximity of the driver's backwave. And since there's no legitimate way to seal, brace, or align (port-tune) the rear chamber, there's no way to prevent this destructive behavior. Here are a few good speaker system design website links that you may find helpful in your quest for better sound.
How does an Enclosure effect the performance of a loud speaker? - Autotemp Air and Sound
How Important Is Your Subwoofer Enclosure?
...I come in peace brother! :usa2:
mugenrios2k
Member
Big roger that.
Panel bracing is always important even in a vented enclosure even more so in a sealed enclosure.
Panel bracing is always important even in a vented enclosure even more so in a sealed enclosure.
mugenrios2k
Member
The look people give you when they go damn what is that a 15 you got in there and you go nope that a couple 6" drivers. Lol
rigtec
New member
Haha! I don't know if you know... but I sold one of the 2-15" Boxes this past October. Actually I had removed one of those boxes maybe a year ago; nowhere to put my groceries after going shopping on friday afternoons! :nerd:...musta forgot to factor that into the equation during final calculations! :noidea:
I sold two Alpine 1522D-2 on ebay first, then I sold four JL 10W6v2 ten inch subs, and the two JL HD-750 Mono-blocks! So now I only have the two 15's and the two Alpine PDX M-12 Mono-Blocks ...I think the truck lifted up about 2.5 inches all the way around lol!
mugenrios2k
Member
Reverse rake why... because you got bass lmao
mugenrios2k
Member
best bet to add more bass if you are a JBL system with the factory sub enclosure.
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/engin...eo-sound-5th-gen-3.html#post2288500:reddance:
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/engin...eo-sound-5th-gen-3.html#post2288500:reddance:
MayorBloom
New member
Ok, so I had a sundown 8" sub installed, Rockford amp under the drivers seat. The amp is a PBR300X2. Running 300 watts at 1 ohm and the sub is a Sundown SD....Dropped it of 2 weeks ago and told them it needed done by today. Not happy about remains of the cross bar, but they will fix it when I get back from a short trip
![IMG_1782[1].jpg](https://www.toyota-4runner.org/data/attachments/172/172653-ccbf68c0487e3f44be51b32629bb5a36.jpg?hash=BBphtBi9H3 "IMG_1782[1].jpg")
Attachments
![IMG_1782[1].jpg](/data/attachments/172/172653-ccbf68c0487e3f44be51b32629bb5a36.jpg?hash=BBphtBi9H3)
rigtec
New member
Hi Audio fans,
It just occurred to me that I haven't introduced you to a few tools that I've picked up over the last couple of yrs. First I'd like to say that my Stock HU, alpine dash and door speakers, and dual independent 15" Subwoofers have never sounded better. It's taken me about four years to get the system to this point. Not because it's sooo hard to do, but I was learning more and more as I realized that there were things that I could have/ should have done differently. So I finally have the right combination of equipment, power, and DSP that works for me (OMG!)
But here's a tool that I think you'll find helpful. It's a calibrated frequency signal disc which can be used for setting up your input gain sensitivity signal to help match up your amps with the output of your headunit. It can also be used for testing the frequency range (not to be confused with frequency response)! Example: You have a subwoofer in the truck that claims to be capable of 250 watts at 40 HZ (cps) and still maintain an F3, which means it's measured at 3 dBs below nominal level (on a frequency/decibel chart) but the low-end is starting to attenuate because the it's being driven really hard @40 hertz and is now having trouble keeping up with the rest of the audio system; I may go into this in more depth at some later time.
So you can run a disc, which I'll show you. It's calibrated so you'll know exactly what type of signal is being broadcast through the system. It's not just for subs, The disc has the full range of audible signal and does drive to the limits of the human ear. So you can prove your tweeters, your mid-range speakers, the bass speakers and your subs. There are about 85 tracks on the CD, produced by certainly one of the leaders in audio research and Lab studies. To be honest though, I became interested in this test CD when I first started designing my own subs because the disc eliminates all the guess work.
I never wonder how much my subs can handle whether a dynamic pulse, a continuous high level signal, a warble... and I know without guessing (or a wishlist) exactly how low of a frequency the twins can reproduce; and this is like ULTRA IMPORTANT without any audible distortion. The disc has all separate tracks so you can run them through your dash and doors, tailgate or subs and it let's you know what you may need to do to protect those speakers in terms of installing/implementing a HIGH-PASS FILTER just above the point of the loss of cone control! Here's the CD and weblink:
My Disc: The Sheffield A2TB Test Disc CD-Elusive Disc
Once again, these discs's purpose is to test the SQ (sound quality) of your existing system components e.g., Drivers of all ranges, amps (to determine if you're using enough power; particularly the low-end...etc)! And if a speaker component cannot handle the pass-band range advertised on it's data sheet, then you may want to question whether you should be dealing with a company who's specs cannot be trusted w/o reading a bunch of fine print!
Happy testing, :cheers:
It just occurred to me that I haven't introduced you to a few tools that I've picked up over the last couple of yrs. First I'd like to say that my Stock HU, alpine dash and door speakers, and dual independent 15" Subwoofers have never sounded better. It's taken me about four years to get the system to this point. Not because it's sooo hard to do, but I was learning more and more as I realized that there were things that I could have/ should have done differently. So I finally have the right combination of equipment, power, and DSP that works for me (OMG!)
But here's a tool that I think you'll find helpful. It's a calibrated frequency signal disc which can be used for setting up your input gain sensitivity signal to help match up your amps with the output of your headunit. It can also be used for testing the frequency range (not to be confused with frequency response)! Example: You have a subwoofer in the truck that claims to be capable of 250 watts at 40 HZ (cps) and still maintain an F3, which means it's measured at 3 dBs below nominal level (on a frequency/decibel chart) but the low-end is starting to attenuate because the it's being driven really hard @40 hertz and is now having trouble keeping up with the rest of the audio system; I may go into this in more depth at some later time.
So you can run a disc, which I'll show you. It's calibrated so you'll know exactly what type of signal is being broadcast through the system. It's not just for subs, The disc has the full range of audible signal and does drive to the limits of the human ear. So you can prove your tweeters, your mid-range speakers, the bass speakers and your subs. There are about 85 tracks on the CD, produced by certainly one of the leaders in audio research and Lab studies. To be honest though, I became interested in this test CD when I first started designing my own subs because the disc eliminates all the guess work.
I never wonder how much my subs can handle whether a dynamic pulse, a continuous high level signal, a warble... and I know without guessing (or a wishlist) exactly how low of a frequency the twins can reproduce; and this is like ULTRA IMPORTANT without any audible distortion. The disc has all separate tracks so you can run them through your dash and doors, tailgate or subs and it let's you know what you may need to do to protect those speakers in terms of installing/implementing a HIGH-PASS FILTER just above the point of the loss of cone control! Here's the CD and weblink:
My Disc: The Sheffield A2TB Test Disc CD-Elusive Disc
Once again, these discs's purpose is to test the SQ (sound quality) of your existing system components e.g., Drivers of all ranges, amps (to determine if you're using enough power; particularly the low-end...etc)! And if a speaker component cannot handle the pass-band range advertised on it's data sheet, then you may want to question whether you should be dealing with a company who's specs cannot be trusted w/o reading a bunch of fine print!
Happy testing, :cheers:
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flyinhawaiian01
New member
:iagree:
I have Sheffield's disc too, but prefer using the Autosound 2000 disc, it gives a TON of tones and sweeps, including solid tones from 10hz all the way to 98hz in 1hz steps. I think the two discs are a fantastic arsenal for tuning and finding nulls and overly boosted frequencies in a vehicle!
Ripped them to Flac files and ran them through the stock head unit, that's how I discovered the weirdness with its crossover cutting specific frequencies at certain volumes.
EDIT: I think I have a different Sheffield disc than you do, mine only says Sheffield Autosound disc, yours looks like both discs together! Maybe because I got them from Ebay?
I have Sheffield's disc too, but prefer using the Autosound 2000 disc, it gives a TON of tones and sweeps, including solid tones from 10hz all the way to 98hz in 1hz steps. I think the two discs are a fantastic arsenal for tuning and finding nulls and overly boosted frequencies in a vehicle!
Ripped them to Flac files and ran them through the stock head unit, that's how I discovered the weirdness with its crossover cutting specific frequencies at certain volumes.
EDIT: I think I have a different Sheffield disc than you do, mine only says Sheffield Autosound disc, yours looks like both discs together! Maybe because I got them from Ebay?
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Paradox155
New member
GGGGGG...God Mode!!!! Love it!
rigtec
New member
Great choice for the Sub and (mono-block) power amp, enjoy!
