Hard to find Specs, Info & Measurements on 231mm 13WL Tundra Calipers & Rotors

Brake Shake after upgrade

I did the 231 big brake upgrade a while ago now (maybe 40k). What might be causing them to shake violently at highway speeds under hard braking? Figured it might be time to change out rotors and pads, but seems a little early for that. could it be something else like balljoints or inner tie rods? Any help is appreciated.

I have about a two inch lift and 265/75/16 tires if that matters.
 
Have you inspected your rotors and pads? It's easy enough and 40k is normal for auto parts store components. What brand rotors and pads did you use.

Start with the easy stuff first.
 
Have you inspected your rotors and pads? It's easy enough and 40k is normal for auto parts store components. What brand rotors and pads did you use.

Start with the easy stuff first.


I know that the calipers were from Autozone. I think the pads and rotors are toyota OEM, but seeing as it has been about 5 years I just cannot remember.

I did remember that I blew a cv boot around the time the brakes started acting up. Maybe the pads got contaminated, but would that cause violent shaking? I guess it is worth another look under there.

Thanks for the help man.
 
ABS Function

I'm gathering parts for the 231 upgrade and will be installing them next week.
OEM rotors , OEM pads , NAPA calipers .

Here's an interesting quote from Sonoran Steel ,
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Why we don’t offer 231 in Kits 1 and 4. For legal reasons. If you booster is working correctly and you install Factory Toyota Pads in a 231mm Caliper and engage a hard stop, your front tires will lock up and slide. Your rear tires will not. This is because the ABS computer is calibrated to a completely different caliper with different coverage. It is actually absurd to think you can just change parts around and not effect a computer controlled brake system. If you want 231mm Calipers we do offer 231mm in the 6.0 kit where you source your own calipers. We provide everything else all Factory Toyota, but you alone make the decision to install the 231mm and the responsibility for that decision is all yours.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Anyone have any thoughts on this fellows ideas about the ABS not working
when the 231 Tundra brakes are fitted ?

I've had plenty of cars and trucks with ABS and some very nice motorcycles
with ABS installed .
In my experience the abs and other traction control systems are monitoring
each tires rotation and makes adjustments to the braking system to correct wheel lockup .
The only time issues arise is when tire sizes are changed, especially when
an odd size tire is thrown in the mix.
It shouldn't matter what caliper or rotor size is used .


Max
 
I'm gathering parts for the 231 upgrade and will be installing them next week.
OEM rotors , OEM pads , NAPA calipers .

Here's an interesting quote from Sonoran Steel ,
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Why we don’t offer 231 in Kits 1 and 4. For legal reasons. If you booster is working correctly and you install Factory Toyota Pads in a 231mm Caliper and engage a hard stop, your front tires will lock up and slide. Your rear tires will not. This is because the ABS computer is calibrated to a completely different caliper with different coverage. It is actually absurd to think you can just change parts around and not effect a computer controlled brake system. If you want 231mm Calipers we do offer 231mm in the 6.0 kit where you source your own calipers. We provide everything else all Factory Toyota, but you alone make the decision to install the 231mm and the responsibility for that decision is all yours.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Anyone have any thoughts on this fellows ideas about the ABS not working
when the 231 Tundra brakes are fitted ?

I've had plenty of cars and trucks with ABS and some very nice motorcycles
with ABS installed .
In my experience the abs and other traction control systems are monitoring
each tires rotation and makes adjustments to the braking system to correct wheel lockup .
The only time issues arise is when tire sizes are changed, especially when
an odd size tire is thrown in the mix.
It shouldn't matter what caliper or rotor size is used .


Max


I called up Steve at Sonoran Steel to source all the weirder parts for my TBU since they make it so convenient in a little kit (with the non-chamfered factory brake pads like I wanted), and he gave me the same talking points. I went ahead with it and have absolutely no regrets (I also called up Wheeler's Off-Road for some stainless brake lines). I did have to mash the brakes very hard one time in the 30,000+ miles I've had them on and they did NOT lock up; but they sure stopped fast like I wanted! I do have 265/75/16 E rated tires, and now have a 3/4" extended steering rack cover that's over 50 extra lbs. up front so the TBU is warranted. Theoretically if you had F1-level race brakes on a 1970's bicycle tire then they'd have a point, but the 231 upgrade from 199 isn't the massive step-up to overkill that they've hyped it as. Can't blame them for covering their butts on the legal liability front though.
 
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Have you inspected your rotors and pads? It's easy enough and 40k is normal for auto parts store components. What brand rotors and pads did you use.

Start with the easy stuff first.

Turned out to be a seized driver caliper. Still waiting to get up to highway speeds, but feels much better already. Thanks again man, I was overcomplicating the issue.
 

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Brake pad and shim kit part #'s

Great write-up and it's MUCH appreciated! :thumb:

Does anyone know what the correct part #'s are for the more robust brake pads and shim kit that fit the 13WG calipers? Are they the same as the ones that fit the 13WL? I see the part # for the 13WL is Toyota Part # 04465-35290 for the pads and 04945-35120 for the shim kit. Somehow or another I ended up with the 13WG calipers from O'Reilly instead of the "L". I guess I didn't know the difference when purchasing them. My daughter's mechanic boyfriend did the Tundra upgrade for me 5K miles ago and he used Wagoner Quiet Stop pads and I started getting a pulsation in the pedal on even mildly hard stops soon after it was all installed. I want to have the Tundra rotors turned (I bought brand new OEM units when I did the upgrade) and start over with the more robust OEM pads (nevermind why Toyota pads weren't used to begin with :ohwell:). In this thread it sounds like both calipers take the same pad, but I read on another forum that that is not the case and that the "G" actually takes a shorter pad. What's the real truth? I can't seem to find anything anywhere that specifically shows what part #'s fit the "G" version. Thank you in advance!
 
I wanted to add my thanks to BFAD and everyone else in this thread for all the information, 199, 231, parts sources and options, wheel issues, etc.

FWIW, I was on one of the original 4Runner websites way back in 98 with [MENTION=750]Gadget[/MENTION] and Ron S, who both arm twisted me into having my 4Runner SC'ed before I took delivery from the dealership, and have been following this thread for a few years, along with the rest of the T4R 3rd gen forum.

A few months ago, I started gathering parts for my 98 SC'ed 4Runner, and a few weeks ago, I did the Little Tundra Brake Upgrade,, 'Little', because of wheel size restrictions.

The parts I used are:

Reybestos FRC11039 and FRC11040 re-man calipers
NIB Toyota 43512-0C011 rotors
NIB Toyota 04465-0C012 brake pads
NIB Toyota 04945-04012 shims

I didn't see the benefit to my using DOT4, and used DOT 3 brake fluid.

I did have to grind off (or did I?) a little of one dust shield due to rotor rub, but realized afterwards, I could have just tapped that part of the shield back, because the other side had no dust shield interference.

I bought a Harbor Freight one man brake bleed kit, which did not work as prescribed, at all.
Luckily, the wife unit was home, and she operated the brake pedal, and using the HF hardware, was able to bleed the brakes cleanly, and in pretty short order.

The brakes, and more importantly, the feel of the brakes of course are now far better than before, and I've noticed the steering is more precise than before, I assume due to the slight extra weight up front.

The usual suspects have been replaced as preventive maintenance items (lower ball joints, radiator, etc.) all with the toyota oem newer part numbers.
The only suspension upgrade were Addco sway bars.

At 130K on the odo, it is pretty much a garage queen now.

Again, thanks to everyone who contributed to this thread, and to the forum, the good news and the bad.

Jay
Arizona
 
OEM vs Other for towing

I'm getting ready for the 231mm TBU. I was planning on going with the recommended Toyota rotors & pads. I will be pulling a 17' boat somewhat regularly and also spend quite a bit of time in the mountains. Should I be looking away from OEM or just stick with it? Thanks.

'00 4runner SR5 a/t
 
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Stud hole diameter on NAPA Ultra Premium Rotors

I'm literally in the process of doing this upgrade right now and have the passenger side done, but at a head scratching moment. I'm using NAPA Ultra Premium 86931CR rotors sourced for a 2005 Tundra and found the stud hole diameter to be larger than the 4Runner rotors. Both rigs use M12x1.5 studs. The 4Runner stud holes measured .550" and the NAPAs show .580". This allows for some slop in the rotor and makes it very difficult to center up when putting on the wheel. I've had three attempts where the rotors slip a little one way or the other and the wheel bolts up with a wobble to the rotor and wheel. When I was doing the install, I had noticed the slop, but the lug nuts used to secure just the rotor for caliper install seemed to center the rotor well. It was when I had to remove the nuts to mount the wheel, that the problems persist. A call to NAPA only confirmed the part is correct for the 2000 through 2006 Tundra. Anyone have any issues like this using ANY Tundra spec'd rotor? Or is this maybe unique to the NAPA Ultra Premium rotors? I just don;t like the way they don't sit proper on the hub center and allow for slop. Suggestions? TIA
 
I've been searching for a while and haven't found a definite answer. I have these 16" wheels. Does anyone know if these wheels will clear the 231 caliper?
A few of the pics on the first page won't load and I haven't seen these mentioned.
 

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I've been searching for a while and haven't found a definite answer. I have these 16" wheels. Does anyone know if these wheels will clear the 231 caliper?
A few of the pics on the first page won't load and I haven't seen these mentioned.

I haven't had anyone confirm fitment on those wheels, but I do know those were found on 1st gen Tundras, so I would be inclined to say yes, they will clear.
 
Hi all,

New member here. I've been reading lots of posts on this thread and it is time to upgrade mine since the rotors are warped. My questions, some folks chose calipers from Autozone and some from NAPA, are they somewhat equivalent in quality? I found that NAPA's calipers are a little bit more expensive, I don't mind saving a little by going with Autozone's calipers. My car is not really use on heavy load but I like the upgrade with better stopping power.

My plan is to go with after-market/remanufactured calipers, genuine Toyota rotors and pads. Thanks in advance for any recommendation.

Tony
 
I used this thread as a reference when installing my tundra brakes today. Such a wealth of information when ordering parts and ultimately installing them!

I used this package from amazon:https://www.amazon.com/Power-Stop-K...9713413&sr=1-8&keywords=power+stop+z36+tundra
9CD94E24-DF0C-47F2-AE02-EF3477F6FDCE by https://www.flickr.com/photos/140393666@N08/, on Flickr

The parts seem to be of good quality as others have noted in reviews.

Compared to stock:
B8731BC5-999D-4587-8D5F-59C4EBEE4695 by https://www.flickr.com/photos/140393666@N08/, on Flickr

The only problem with the install was removing the stock rotors that were seized on to the truck with ungodly force. Resorted to using a nut/bolt through the caliper mounting holes to force them off from the back.

All mounted up and bled.

CDC2E0D7-0B22-4C73-9F3E-5D4312249715 by https://www.flickr.com/photos/140393666@N08/, on Flickr

I haven't seen anyone else running this wheel, but in case anyone is wondering, American Racing Victor Teflon wheels (16 inch) clear the larger calipers with plenty of room to spare.

C1E219CD-A8D9-48C1-B72D-6E8DD1320937 by https://www.flickr.com/photos/140393666@N08/, on Flickr

First impressions driving after bedding in the pads are good. The brakes seem to bite well and stopping occurs with no shuddering- such a great feeling after becoming used to the warped stock brakes on mountain roads.
7E0F182F-86F0-4D07-A3F3-298281CC7724 by https://www.flickr.com/photos/140393666@N08/, on Flickr

The red calipers are growing on me too.
 
[MENTION=140080]Fisheroon[/MENTION] did you upgrade your brake lines as well when you did the upgrade. im getting ready to get the amazon deal but wondering if extended brakes lines are needed or just regular length ss lines would be fine. and also if you have the link to the cargo light. lol
 
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