Head Gasket symptoms starting to show...

Charlie, how did you tighten the camshaft pulley bolts? Did you use the same wrench groove on the shaft itself to hold it (like how it's used to loosen the bolt)?

I saw some tools online but not sure how it works since i don't think the pulley has holes for those ends on the tool.

OTC 4754 Universal Pulley Holder : Amazon.com : Automotive

It does have holes, and I have that OTC holder, and it sucks. The supplied adapters are too weak and will pop out or snap. Most of the 5 star reviews are actually bolting the tool right to the pulley using bolts and not the adapters. Just FYI...
 
It does have holes, and I have that OTC holder, and it sucks. The supplied adapters are too weak and will pop out or snap. Most of the 5 star reviews are actually bolting the tool right to the pulley using bolts and not the adapters. Just FYI...

Thanks! I'm looking to use that same tool for the crankshaft / harmonic balancer. I used the chain method but ended up bending the bolts. I need to get a new throttle body bolt! I also didn't even get it to torque at 160 lbs of torque which is the max on my torque wrench.

As of now, i have to leave all the things in the front of the motor (A/C condensor, p/s pulley, alternator pulley, fan, radiator, etc) pending until i tighten that bolt down. Sucks!!

As for the top, i'm at the part where i can pretty much assemble the upper manifold, engine harness, and vacuum lines. I'm confused as heck here because i forgot where all the lines go. So before i bolt down that manifold, there's a few lines and fuel line that i'm not sure where they bolt down to. Going to need a seconds 4runner to reference so i'll ask one of my buddies next weekend.

Oh, forgot to mention, i cut my finger pretty bad and had to stop. Went to the ER and got three stitches. :dammit:

Couldn't get a snap shot of the progress on the motor but got a pic of this! (sorry for the "gory" pic for those with weak stomachs)
FECA822C-E4C3-427C-B057-0468114B801A-11328-000007E978886383.jpg~original



:jaw drop:
 
Thanks! I'm looking to use that same tool for the crankshaft / harmonic balancer. I used the chain method but ended up bending the bolts. I need to get a new throttle body bolt! I also didn't even get it to torque at 160 lbs of torque which is the max on my torque wrench.

I ended up bolting that tool up at the BACK of my engine to the output shaft - worked like a charm...obviously that's not an option that is normally available though.

The Toyota tool actually has a block that goes INSIDE the pulley and then has the 2 bolts that hold it in place. The block prevents the bolts from bending or snapping.

So if you do get the OTC tool, you'd need to make a similar block, it's not hard, just you know - if you start having to fabricate stuff, fabricating the tool itself is actually easier than the block you need to make it work right.
 
Shouldn't the flywheel be accessible to hold while you torque down the crank bolt? I didn't need it to get the bolt off since I hit with an impact, but I'm planning on holding the flywheel down to torque the bolt.
 
Shouldn't the flywheel be accessible to hold while you torque down the crank bolt? I didn't need it to get the bolt off since I hit with an impact, but I'm planning on holding the flywheel down to torque the bolt.

i've heard that too. But where is the location of the flywheel? changed one out on a honda before but this is completely different.. Flywheel on that was next to the clutch.
 
The flywheel is between the engine and trans - if you have a manual trans. Automatics have a flex plate.

In the past on manual cars I've just put the car in high gear with the handbrake pulled and tightented the bolt that way. It's not "recomended" way of doing it as you can never be sure that you really got the right torque and didn't just end up slipping the clutch.

They do make "flywheel locks" that bolt in place of the starter and have teeth that prevent the flywheel/flexplate from spinning by locking into the ring gear.

Whatever you do, don't just jam a screwdriver in there - that's just going to end with either a broken screwdriver, flywheel teeth/flexplate or chipped/cracked bellhousing.
 
Whatever you do, don't just jam a screwdriver in there - that's just going to end with either a broken screwdriver, flywheel teeth/flexplate or chipped/cracked bellhousing.

thanks! got a picture of the location of where this tool would go by any chance?
 
thanks! got a picture of the location of where this tool would go by any chance?

Sorry - never had to use one. Like I said, would just leave car in gear. In general, they just bolt in place of the starter. Frankly I'm not even sure there is a T4R specific tool or if you have to make do with a "universal"
 
In your experience, has tightening the bolt with the car in gear worked well? Any chance of damaging the gear you're in or even skipping a tooth on the belt where it meets the crank?
 
Shouldn't the flywheel be accessible to hold while you torque down the crank bolt? I didn't need it to get the bolt off since I hit with an impact, but I'm planning on holding the flywheel down to torque the bolt.

That's the way to go. I did it myself, no extra helping hand whatsoever and no extra money spent on tools I wasn't gonna need in years (for sure). I used a large flat screwdriver and managed to get the tip stucked between 2 of the flywheel's teeth and the transmission's housing, then simultaneously applied torque. Kinda tricky but not impossible.
 
That's the way to go. I did it myself, no extra helping hand whatsoever and no extra money spent on tools I wasn't gonna need in years (for sure). I used a large flat screwdriver and managed to get the tip stucked between 2 of the flywheel's teeth and the transmission's housing, then simultaneously applied torque. Kinda tricky but not impossible.

Is the flywheel obvious in the open or do i need to take something off to get to it? Sounds like its around the starter but i'm not entirely sure.
 
In your experience, has tightening the bolt with the car in gear worked well? Any chance of damaging the gear you're in or even skipping a tooth on the belt where it meets the crank?

Never had a problem putting MANUAL cars in gear. Not sure about automatic. I've used that method on 3 cars so far with no issues. Had my engine not been on a stand, that's how I'd have done it on the 4runner...
 
Is the flywheel obvious in the open or do i need to take something off to get to it? Sounds like its around the starter but i'm not entirely sure.

There's a small sheet metal cover right behind the oil pan that covers the bottom section of the transmission bell housing. You should remove it to access the flywheel, it is fixed by 2 o 3 bolts.

I did it by means of jamming a screwdriver, but as mentioned before, yes, there is a possibility of cracking the bell housing. I took the risk and got out of it with no issues whatsoever so take that in mind.
 
How's it coming? I got my heads back from the shop yesterday (all good, got them cleaned and smoothed out) Got it back to the valve covers today. Next comes the timing belt and all the other BS.

Are you/did you re-use your exhaust manifold studs? I think I'm just going to replace mine to avoid any hassle with them since they are pretty rusty.
 
How's it coming? I got my heads back from the shop yesterday (all good, got them cleaned and smoothed out) Got it back to the valve covers today. Next comes the timing belt and all the other BS.

Are you/did you re-use your exhaust manifold studs? I think I'm just going to replace mine to avoid any hassle with them since they are pretty rusty.

I reused the exhaust manifold studs. They weren't too rusty so I think it was okay for me though changing them out for new ones never hurt. I'd make em' tight but not extremely tight since you're going to wrenching it some more when you put the manifold and nut on. Afterall, you don't want it to snap inside your head. I saw a similar thread going and the guy said he snapped a bolt and it was stuck on his resurfaced head. What a way to start the build right?

Anyways, after i cut my finger, i haven't had a chance to wrench on it. I'm still at the point where the lower crank bolt needs to be tightened to 217(?) lbs of torque and everything can be bolted back in; a/c condenser, p/s pulley, alternator, fan, radiator, then install my new transmission cooler.

The top half, i got the fuel rail installed. So what left is the intake manifold, throttle body and all the vacuum lines, cables, etc go back into place. I still am so confused of where everything goes so i'll pull a second 4runner besides mine to trace the lines. Should've color coded the lines before i pulled them off. =/

Good luck on yours. Don't cut your finger.:ybrick:
 
Where do these vacuums go?

Hey anyone know where these vacuum ends go? I don't even know what hose to put onto it as i have a few around. It's like a puzzle to me right now.

Looking at the motor from the front, this is left side. And before i put the manifold on.
6851677E-7B5D-405B-8818-32E79E2FCEA0-2978-00000170E2E273D3.jpg~original



Looking at the motor from the front, this is right side. And before i put the manifold on.
58D1C6BA-3C95-4B22-A7F8-E7BA992A2C10-2978-00000170D93B10F5.jpg~original
 
I've been looking at Diagram14's TB and HG timeline thread and trying to make some sense of where things go. I think i found the two but where do they go?


DSC01474.jpg~original
 
If I remember correctly, those two you have arrowed actualy "T" together and maybe come out as that hose the cuts across the top left corner of that photo.
 

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