Help with Blue Sea Fuse Block

[4ever4running]

My accessories are beginning to pile up so I have been looking into getting a Blue Sea fuse Block to help clean up some of the wiring. My main question is: Do you need some sort of a breaker/larger fuse between the battery and the fuse block? I have done some research and browsed through some threads and some guys used them and some didn't so I didn't find a definitive answer.

I am going to go with either this 6 circuit block:
OTRATTW
OR this 12 circuit block:
OTRATTW

For reference, here are the accessories that I either have or am planning to have running through the fuse block:
4 - PIAA 520 ATPs (85W each, 2 relays wired together)
2 - PIAA 510 Crystal Ion Fogs (55W each, 1 relay)
2 - Hella Rallye 4000 (100W each, 1 relay)
1 - Viair 400C Air Compressor (Power from battery to on/off switch)

Finally, does anyone have any pictures of a Blue Sea fuse block mounted in a 3rd gen?

 

[shadow247]

That depends on where you are mounting the fuse block. If it is a short run, say less than 6", I don't think you need a fuse/breaker inline. The only reason to run a fuse/breaker inline is if there is a possibility the wire could become cut and contact metal, which would cause a short to ground and could possibly start a fire.

 

[theizzardking]

not mine but will be soon, my 6 fuse blue sea arrives tomorrow, going to use that with thier 120 amp acr and trying to decide if i'm going to use their switch, i doubt it on the switch due to size constraints, i'm really running out of room under the hood at this point....

thread for pics above
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/63214-dual-battery-set-up.html

and mine is in my build thread in sig.

 

[4ever4running]

That depends on where you are mounting the fuse block. If it is a short run, say less than 6", I don't think you need a fuse/breaker inline. The only reason to run a fuse/breaker inline is if there is a possibility the wire could become cut and contact metal, which would cause a short to ground and could possibly start a fire.

I am planning on mounting the fuse block on top of the stock fuse box (or close to it) which would require about 12-18" of wire.

I am under the impression that each terminal can only handle a maximum of 30A and the fuse block can only handle a max of 100A. So, some guys have run either a 100A or 125A fuse or circuit breaker to ensure that the block doesn't get overloaded.

 

[shadow247]

I am planning on mounting the fuse block on top of the stock fuse box (or close to it) which would require about 12-18" of wire.

I am under the impression that each terminal can only handle a maximum of 30A and the fuse block can only handle a max of 100A. So, some guys have run either a 100A or 125A fuse or circuit breaker to ensure that the block doesn't get overloaded.

That's certainly a good idea. A circuit breaker would be ideal, but it adds a bit to the cost of the setup.
Balmar 125A Circuit Breaker Surface Mount Manual Reset

 

[4ever4running]

That setup is sweet! I really like the hinged mounting location, but I think I am simply going to mount the fuse block directly on the factory fuse cover. I know it would cover the factory fuse names/locations, but I will just make a diagram that I can reference if needed.

 

[4ever4running]

That's certainly a good idea. A circuit breaker would be ideal, but it adds a bit to the cost of the setup.
Balmar 125A Circuit Breaker Surface Mount Manual Reset

Yeah I'm sure that circuit breaker is nice but I don't want to pay more for the circuit breaker than I do for the actual fuse box...

So, as an alternative, I'm looking at this fuse holder with a 125A fuse: OTRATTW. That way I have some extra protection that doesn't break the bank.

 

[shadow247]

Yeah I'm sure that circuit breaker is nice but I don't want to pay more for the circuit breaker than I do for the actual fuse box...

So, as an alternative, I'm looking at this fuse holder with a 125A fuse: OTRATTW. That way I have some extra protection that doesn't break the bank.

Just make sure you carry a few extra fuses!

 

[riceandpho]

Have a 150 amp circuit breaker along the main line, 4 gauge wire is a good supply line, also make sure to loom all wiring, i treat these like i would install extra amps and accessories, either have it close 18 or less to a fused distoblock from battery, or make fused line and extend the wire to where ever you want that fuse box at.

 

[GottaBeTRD]

Hey guys, I'm about to pull the trigger on one of these fuse boxes. I've read a bunch of threads on this but I need the actual function put in laymans terms. Sorry i get confused pretty easily.

If i understand it right, this is something i can wire all my aux things to instead of having them wired to my battery? For example, my HID's, my PIAA's, my 700 watt inverter, my Amp for my stereo, etc... Am i right? Does this thing just come with some heavy duty wires that I just hard-wire to the battery with a POS and a NEG?

I thinking on getting this 6 circuit box l Amazon.com: Blue Sea Systems Fuse Block Ato 6 Circuit with Ground: Sports & Outdoors and that would mean i could have 6 different accessories right?

I know this thread says that a breaker isn't really necessarily but i might get one just to be safe. What other things do I need with this? Thanks guys!

 

[smallfry]

Finally, does anyone have any pictures of a Blue Sea fuse block mounted in a 3rd gen?

Here's how I mounted mine in my old 4runner and I ran fuse between the battery and the battery block.

 

[4ever4running]

Hey guys, I'm about to pull the trigger on one of these fuse boxes. I've read a bunch of threads on this but I need the actual function put in laymans terms. Sorry i get confused pretty easily.

If i understand it right, this is something i can wire all my aux things to instead of having them wired to my battery? For example, my HID's, my PIAA's, my 700 watt inverter, my Amp for my stereo, etc... Am i right? Does this thing just come with some heavy duty wires that I just hard-wire to the battery with a POS and a NEG?

That is correct. For safety reasons ANYTHING you have wired directly to the battery should have a fuse and that is exactly what the fuse block allows you to do. You simply run 1 larger gauge power wire (4 gauge is recommended) from the battery to the fuse block. Then you run each of your accessories to the terminals of the fuse block and add a fuse depending on the accessory. For example, I have 2 PIAA 520's that are rated at 85W each, making the total 170W. 170W / 12 = 14.1 amps. So I use a 15 amp fuse for them.

You will be able to run your HIDs and PIAAs through the fuse block, but NOT the inverter and stereo amp. The fuse block can only handle a total load of 100 amps and each terminal can only handle a load of 30 amps so the power inverter and stereo amp will overload it. For example: 700W inverter / 12 = 58 amps which is well over the 30 amp maximum.

Your best bet for the stereo amp and power inverter is a high amp fused distribution block. It is pretty much the same concept as the blue sea fused block, but it can handle the higher loads required by inverters, amps, etc.

The fuse block does not come with any power wires so you will need to supply your own. Here is what I ordered: Amazon.com: KnuKonceptz KCA Kable 4 Gauge Power Wire Red: Car Electronics. It is a really good quality wire and it is sold by the foot so you only have to buy as much as you need, which shouldn't be much. As an added bonus, it comes in different colors if you want to distinguish positive from negative. Just keep in mind that you want 4 gauge wire to connect the battery to the fuse block.


I thinking on getting this 6 circuit box l Amazon.com: Blue Sea Systems Fuse Block Ato 6 Circuit with Ground: Sports & Outdoors and that would mean i could have 6 different accessories right?

Correct

I know this thread says that a breaker isn't really necessarily but i might get one just to be safe. What other things do I need with this? Thanks guys!

I was also wondering about a breaker but IMO it is always better to be safe than sorry so I went ahead and ordered one. I was looking at the Blue Sea 100amp circuit breaker but it was like $70, so I went with this one instead: Amazon.com: STINGER SCBM100 100 Amp Marine Circuit Breaker: Electronics.

See responses in bold above. I hope this helps!

 

[GottaBeTRD]

wow thanks guys this I didn't even see this in my search. Smallfry are you running 2 blocks then or did you just relocate it?

 

[smallfry]

wow thanks guys this I didn't even see this in my search. Smallfry are you running 2 blocks then or did you just relocate it?

I was just running 1 block.

 

[4ever4running]

Using the info and advice from everyone who posted on the thread, I went ahead and ordered and began installing a Blue Sea fuse block. I ordered a Blue Sea 12 position positive and negative fuse block from OTRATTW.

I decided to use/steal the Lexan idea to mount my fuse block. I was able to find some at my local Home Depot. I bought an 8” X 10” sheet for about $4 and some hardware to mount everything. When I was thinking about how to mount the fuse block to the Lexan and how to mount the Laxan to the factory fuse box cover, one of the main issues that I was concerned about what having access to the factory fuse box. Read more below to see what I ended up doing.

First I test fit and cut the Lexan sheet down to size. An added benefit of the Lexan is that even though it’s pretty strong, it is still really easy to cut. I marked off the area that I wanted to cut and used a level and a razor blade to repeatedly score the Lexan. After the Lexan is scored sufficiently the pieces break off with a little force.

Test fitting the trimmed Lexan over the factory fuse box.

I determined where I wanted the fuse block and drilled the mounting holes in the Lexan

I lined up the factory fuse cover and the Lexan and drilled the mounting holes in the factory fuse cover. The two large holes in the middle are where bolts for mounting the Blue Sea to the Lexan will sit.

I used #8 hardware to secure everything. I used nylon lock nuts to secure the Blue Sea to the Lexan. To ensure that I have access to the factory fuse box when I need to, I used wing nuts to secure the Lexan sheet to the factory fuse box cover. That way I can simply remove the four wing nuts and pull the entire Lexan sheet off and move it out of the way.

Then I started wiring up my accessories.

Lastly, I used my Microsoft Excel skills to create a label so I can tell which wires go to which accessory.

I ordered some 4 gauge power wire, 4 gauge terminals, and a 100 AMP circuit breaker on Amazon so I am just waiting on those parts to complete the install.

 

[hrt4me]

nice! I'm going to add a Blue Seq fuse box to my setup and this gives me good ideas

any issues with it so far?

 

[reelamin]

Just adding to this post on my Blue Sea 12 I mounted in my 96. Looking at what others did, and test fitting different areas I copied others. Based on runnin wires to and from this fit my needs the best for now and future accessories and lights. It also allowed for the cleanest and out of the way running of wires in the engine area.

I just took a phtograph of the stock fuse block top, and made a photo "copy" to put it inside. Considering time and effort...it was faster and easier for me with same access.

I only used 3 bolts with nylok nuts. The bolt above the heater relay was too close for me so I did not use it. Three was as solid as I would ever need.

Then mounted a 100 amp breaker against the fender. Allows access to it easily. Ran 6ga wire with crimped nickel plated copper ends shrink tubed closed. Left enough wire so I can fully remove and have access to fuses under block. All wires are not touchin anything with plenty of room to move without rubbing as I'm driving.

Cut the OEM battery clamp down to fit the swapped in "standard" terminals to use the two bolts. Put it all back together and waiting for some more funds to get some switches and relays wired up and ready to go.

Down loading problems will update tomorrow with pics.
S

 

[KentuckyT4R]

Just adding to this post on my Blue Sea 12 I mounted in my 96. Looking at what others did, and test fitting different areas I copied others. Based on runnin wires to and from this fit my needs the best for now and future accessories and lights. It also allowed for the cleanest and out of the way running of wires in the engine area.

I just took a phtograph of the stock fuse block top, and made a photo "copy" to put it inside. Considering time and effort...it was faster and easier for me with same access.

I only used 3 bolts with nylok nuts. The bolt above the heater relay was too close for me so I did not use it. Three was as solid as I would ever need.

Then mounted a 100 amp breaker against the fender. Allows access to it easily. Ran 6ga wire with crimped nickel plated copper ends shrink tubed closed. Left enough wire so I can fully remove and have access to fuses under block. All wires are not touchin anything with plenty of room to move without rubbing as I'm driving.

Cut the OEM battery clamp down to fit the swapped in "standard" terminals to use the two bolts. Put it all back together and waiting for some more funds to get some switches and relays wired up and ready to go.

Down loading problems will update tomorrow with pics.
S

Nice setup you have here! How is the breaker working for you?

 

[reelamin]

Nice setup you have here! How is the breaker working for you?

Not one issue....works perfectly...use the same on my boat...never had a single issue.