How much power?

Speedy said:
The stock 3.4L is forged rods and pistons? I know they're 9.6:1 compression which leads me to believe they were built for boost and just never got it for whatever reason. I heard a rumor the engine was designed for a new Supra back in the day and due to emissions changes it never happened.

Revving one out to 6500 RPM might help a lot.
Click to expand...
Its a truck motor designed in the early '90's. 9.6:1 compression is high for that time period running 87 octane.

The motor also traces its roots to the 1VZ-FE (2L V6, Japan only gen2 Camry and similar vehicles) and 2VZ-FE (2.5L V6, North American Camry) that was first shipped in '88 (so, designed in the early 80's). The 3VZ-E (truck) and 3VZ-FE ('92-'96 Camry) came next, then the 5VZ-FE.

It is over designed because that's how Toyota did it back then. It was never meant to be a performance engine. I was a smooth and reliable upgrade to the 4-cylinders available at the time.

-Charlie
 
Speedy said:
[MENTION=130999]Inv4drZm[/MENTION] That was my issue with those Toyota V8s, the power output just wasn't what I expected. I'm used to Dodge HEMI V8s and the baby 5.7 puts down almost 400, nevermind the big 6.4 at nearly 500. With mine being already around 300 to the tire the number for it to be worth doing would need to be around 400 to the tire I think.
Click to expand...

Should be easy to get with the 2UZ. Upgrade the internals a bit, add on the URD supercharger and up the boost to ~7psi I'm guessing. Would probably be the most reliable setup honestly.
 
gamefreakgc said:
The 1600 HP 5VZ-FE was a drag racer that Gadget helping build if I remember correctly. Both the 3VZ-E and the 5VZ-FE have been turned into drag racers, which only resemble what we have in our engine since they share the same block & heads lol. I used to have the link to the 3VZ-E but I can't find it. What's crazy is that they got 1600 HP with the stock camshafts...
Click to expand...

i still have an incredibly hard time believing this is true. even if its crank HP. i also find it even harder to believe that stock cams were still retained. i would think all sorts of 1 off and custom work had to be done to achieve 1600 hp.

1600 HP (even at the crank), is a shit load of power. You see 800-1200 hp 2j builds all day but you dont see a whole lot past low quad digits because of the sharp increase in time/money involved. again, id like to be proven wrong, but that # just seems way too high.
 
phattyduck said:
Its a truck motor designed in the early '90's. 9.6:1 compression is high for that time period running 87 octane.

The motor also traces its roots to the 1VZ-FE (2L V6, Japan only gen2 Camry and similar vehicles) and 2VZ-FE (2.5L V6, North American Camry) that was first shipped in '88 (so, designed in the early 80's). The 3VZ-E (truck) and 3VZ-FE ('92-'96 Camry) came next, then the 5VZ-FE.

It is over designed because that's how Toyota did it back then. It was never meant to be a performance engine. I was a smooth and reliable upgrade to the 4-cylinders available at the time.

-Charlie
Click to expand...

I would disagree to an extent about it not being built to be a performance engine. The TRD Supercharger was released very soon after the 3rd Gen came onto the market which brought the 5VZ-FE to 265 HP and 267 TQ (according to Toyota's brochure you can find here: Welcome To The N8RWS Webppage). Those were very respectable numbers for back then, that's over 20 years ago.

Now whether it was originally designed on purpose for forced induction, or the engineers just knew it could handle it well I don't know. Maybe the engineering office knew but the sales office took a couple of years to realize the $$ potential!
 
Was wondering if you could link me a transgo shift kit for my 2000 sr5. I've looked around cant seem to find a place to actually buy it.
 
19963.4lsr5 said:
I’ll say it again, the 5vzfe has a factory stud girdle for the main bearings and the crank


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Cast iron blocks are extremely strong as you are well aware of. Going to aluminum blocks in the newer engines saved weight but I not convinced they are better.

Sent from my SM-J337V using Tapatalk
 
Did some searching on V8 swaps today. Sad to read some of these build threads and see tons of enthusiasm at the front end and then far and few between updates. Seems the 2UZ swaps aren't all that straight forward either with electrics being a challenge. Dirtyfingers did one and had 3 shops work on it after he couldn't get it running and finally had to snag an entire harness from a 2004 Tundra to get it running, then the details went fuzzy and he disappeared it seems.

Doing some kind of stand a lone might be the way to go for engine management. I hate ECM headaches.
 
brillo_76 said:
Cast iron blocks are extremely strong as you are well aware of. Going to aluminum blocks in the newer engines saved weight but I not convinced they are better.

Sent from my SM-J337V using Tapatalk
Click to expand...



Not really. It depends on how thick the webbing is. My brother spent a lot of money installing a stud girdle on his 440 because he cracked 3 blocks from too much horsepower for what the block was designed for.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
brillo_76 said:
Cast iron blocks are extremely strong as you are well aware of. Going to aluminum blocks in the newer engines saved weight but I not convinced they are better.

Sent from my SM-J337V using Tapatalk
Click to expand...



Not really. It depends on how thick the webbing is. My brother spent a lot of money installing a stud girdle on his 440 because he cracked 3 blocks from too much horsepower for what the block was designed for.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
brillo_76 said:
Cast iron blocks are extremely strong as you are well aware of. Going to aluminum blocks in the newer engines saved weight but I not convinced they are better.

Sent from my SM-J337V using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
i suppose that is relative to each engine. we have a 3k+ HP hemi in a funny car. aluminum everything...
 
I am referring to longevity and durability. As my v6 has 260k on it and never opened yet. I cant see the 3k + engines do that as they sacrifice everything for the hp for one shot. ;) [ Not that one shot isn't a good time]

I may in the future switch to electric motors in place of the ICE engine for a vehicle. As our battery technology is starting to get there.

I live in the natural gas belt. I plan to switch to duel fuel system as from my research it burns a pile cleaner then gasoline which extends the life of your motor oil. Being we have fueling stations near by and a gas well on the property here. I was thinking on heading that direction for a few vehicles. As with the kits today that can be purchased. They let you use both fuels.

Probably do nothing for HP but we all have to tinker with something. :D

Sent from my SM-J337V using Tapatalk
 
brillo_76 said:
I am referring to longevity and durability. As my v6 has 260k on it and never opened yet. I cant see the 3k + engines do that as they sacrifice everything for the hp for one shot. ;) [ Not that one shot isn't a good time]

I may in the future switch to electric motors in place of the ICE engine for a vehicle. As our battery technology is starting to get there.

I live in the natural gas belt. I plan to switch to duel fuel system as from my research it burns a pile cleaner then gasoline which extends the life of your motor oil. Being we have fueling stations near by and a gas well on the property here. I was thinking on heading that direction for a few vehicles. As with the kits today that can be purchased. They let you use both fuels.

Probably do nothing for HP but we all have to tinker with something. :D

Sent from my SM-J337V using Tapatalk
Click to expand...



That stud girdle helps by keeping the block and crank in line at all times. The extra combustion pressure of the supercharger tries to push the crank out of the way.

Europe, England in particular, has kits to convert your rig to Natural Gas. A few members on the grand Cherokee had that done.

You can buy an electric motor that bolts in place as a section of your driveshaft by shortening it and run a bank of batteries and a speed control. Popular Mechanics did that to a Dodge Charger a bunch of years ago. It was cool.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Well, checking with the guys over on CT to see what they're doing.

A manual trans swap may be a way to get what I'm after from a driving experience perspective and might be simpler long term.

If anyone knows where to get the manual trans shifter bezel boot thing for the dash I'd appreciate a link. Seems they're no longer available and discontinued. I'd like to get one and have it on hand just in case. If I can't make it look factory it's out.

P/N 58804-35060 (yes I've searched Google and Ebay, hoping someone has further info)
 
Last edited:
Speedy said:
Well, checking with the guys over on CT to see what they're doing.

A manual trans swap may be a way to get what I'm after from a driving experience perspective and might be simpler long term.

If anyone knows where to get the manual trans shifter bezel boot thing for the dash I'd appreciate a link. Seems they're no longer available and discontinued. I'd like to get one and have it on hand just in case. If I can't make it look factory it's out.

P/N 58804-35060 (yes I've searched Google and Ebay, hoping someone has further info)
Click to expand...

Have you checked out Tom's Turbo Garage on Youtube yet? It's an LS swap, but he just got done doing it to a 2004 2wd Tacoma, which as you know has the same engine bay as our generation of 4Runner. He did it with a rear mount turbo on it. With 4wd, you'd have to deal with the limited space under the oil pan, but it was a really cool series he did with lots of details. :surfer:
 
How about a 2JZ swap? I won't get into detail about how strong these engines are, there's already tons of info out there.

Like a UZ V8 swap you'll have to move the driveline back almost 3 inches, but no body lift required. Look up 1st-gen Tacoma swaps for further info.

Tweaked Performance has built a wiring harness for a 1st-gen Tacoma that plugged into the existing chassis harness that even kept the OBD2 components (guy lives in an area requiring emissions testing).

Donor vehicles used A430 transmissions so you may be able to reuse your existing transmission with the proper bellhousing and toque converter). You mentioned a manual swap, the R15x series manual transmissions from the 4Runners/Tacomas bolt up to the 2JZ (there are bellhousings and flywheel/clutch combos readily available)
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Members online

Total: 416 (members: 3, guests: 413)

Forum statistics

Threads
278,307
Messages
3,554,056
Members
248,016
Latest member
Advally Service

Share this page

Trending content

Back
Top