How to: Installing 3rd gen spark plugs

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I assume most people replace all 6 spark plugs and the 3 wires on a regular basis, but how often are the coil packs to be replaced? I'm doing an overhaul (replacing pretty much everything on a new to me 250k mile 97 4runner and want to buy EVERYTHING :).

Thanks in advance.

I change plugs annually, but I've only changed wires once at around 150K. I believe a dual electrode plug wants to be changed every 30K miles.

I replaced a bad coil that was causing a code, otherwise I'm running the other 2 original coils, AFAIK.

You could get bullish and change coils and wires with the timing belt, every 100K, but I'm not sure what the FSM recommends on those.

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I change plugs annually, but I've only changed wires once at around 150K. I believe a dual electrode plug wants to be changed every 30K miles.

I replaced a bad coil that was causing a code, otherwise I'm running the other 2 original coils, AFAIK.

You could get bullish and change coils and wires with the timing belt, every 100K, but I'm not sure what the FSM recommends on those.

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No need to change plugs that often in low compression n/a motor. I put 100k miles on the plugs that came in the truck when I bought it before developing a misfire.
 
I change plugs annually, but I've only changed wires once at around 150K. I believe a dual electrode plug wants to be changed every 30K miles.
Dual electrode is because it is a "waste spark" system, and the plugs fire twice as often as normal plugs. So, 2x electrodes firing twice as fast = normal electrode wear.

Regardless, I would be surprised if there was significant erosion at 30K... They should go 60K at least.
 
My truck is running rough and I can feel a loss of power and when accelerating it almost feels like it's skipping a gear or cylinder from what I read and have been told but I thought who would know better than y'all.
...
So any reliable, relevant, helpful information/advice will be greatly appreciated.

Which motor do you have? If it's the 3.4, you need to ditch those spark plugs and get dual electrode.

^^^THIS. Go back to the first post in this thread and start reading.

You should have dual-electrode plugs:
 
Right, dual ground is to slow down the erosion of the electrode. What about using Pt (platinum) or Ir (iridium) plugs? These wear out at a very slow pace so these can withstand 30K miles easily. The densoglobal site recommends PK16TT or IK16TT for a 5vzfe and I started running on PK16TT on my4unner since Saturday 9/16. So far so good. Yet to do the MPG test.

I also use the same type for my 4 cylinder 4afe motor and 8 cylinder 2uzfe motor on TLC. I already noticed a good mileage increment after switching to the Pt-TT plugs on the cruiser.
 
No Pics

Sorry for digging up an old thread...It looks like this was updated a week or so ago to update the pics. I assume due to the Photobucket fiasco. Anyway, the pics show as little black boxes with X's for me. Is this because I am a new member as of today or are the pics actually missing?
 
Sorry for digging up an old thread...It looks like this was updated a week or so ago to update the pics. I assume due to the Photobucket fiasco. Anyway, the pics show as little black boxes with X's for me. Is this because I am a new member as of today or are the pics actually missing?

Old thread but still active. I moved the pics to PostImage.

Obviously I can see them but you're the first to say they aren't visible.

Link to one of the photos... Paste into a new tab and remove the spaces, see if it works that way.

https: // postimg. org /image/ kstqb8ekz/
 
First time changing the plugs on this truck since buying it an I ran into some issues. Plugs came out no problem and aside from the coilpacks having no flange bolts holding them to the head all was fine. When I went to reinstall everything I notices that one line that I didn't remove intially on the drivers side didn't have a home. It's the small one with a blue fuel filter looking thing on it.
E3_CB74_D3-94_C6-49_B4-_B8_E0-80_B079_C8_E59_F.jpg


I looked at several videos and diagrams of my engine bay and cannot for the life of me figure out what it is or where it goes. I looked at several videos and diagrams and it looks like it goes one of two places but both are already occupied on my engine.
61_E03_F49-03_C1-429_E-_BB7_E-_F22_CB16_C6_F7_E.jpg

Right in the middle of the image on the top half of the intake and here:
E3_CB74_D3-94_C6-49_B4-_B8_E0-80_B079_C8_E59_F.jpg

where the smallest line follows the larger two and connects to the intake. Any help would be great.
 
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The thin hard line in your last pic goes to the vacuum actuator on the TB

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Sorry, just realized postimg gave me the wrong picture. I'm wondering about the line with the blue filter looking thing right next to the master cylinder and diagnostic port on the driver's side. This one is a better example.
220516d1474650282-vacuum-hose-help-4-runner-engine.jpg
 
Just used this guide. Thanks for posting that. I know it's an old, old post. Anyhow, I traded my 1999 Suburban for a 2000 4runner 2wd last weekend. Put a set of Michelin Defenders on it a few days ago. This morning on the way to work it started missing really bad and then the check engine light came on. Had it scanned at AutoZone. Guy said it was a fuel injector. I'm like what? So I get a set of the NGK double electrode plugs with a new set of OEM wires.
Go home after work and proceed to change out the plugs. The#5 coil Pac pulled off from the plug. Left a half inch of brittle rubber from the rubber tube onto the plug. Had to dig that out and blow out with an air hose. The coil pack was toast. Changed the coil out and did everything else. It runs like a new one now. I'm happy!! [emoji4]



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Just used this guide. Thanks for posting that. I know it's an old, old post. Anyhow, I traded my 1999 Suburban for a 2000 4runner 2wd last weekend. Put a set of Michelin Defenders on it a few days ago. This morning on the way to work it started missing really bad and then the check engine light came on. Had it scanned at AutoZone. Guy said it was a fuel injector. I'm like what? So I get a set of the NGK double electrode plugs with a new set of OEM wires.
Go home after work and proceed to change out the plugs. The#5 coil Pac pulled off from the plug. Left a half inch of brittle rubber from the rubber tube onto the plug. Had to dig that out and blow out with an air hose. The coil pack was toast. Changed the coil out and did everything else. It runs like a new one now. I'm happy!! [emoji4]



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Good on you. Codes aren't always accurate.

You can replace the boot on the offending coil and keep it as a spare.

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Have never in my life seen a set of plugs this bad. I'm surprised it was even running..SMH
 

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I've seen plugs without electrodes arc to the thread. You'd be surprised what "works" under the right conditions

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Replaced the plugs on my sons truck last year shortly after he got it. 3 Denso's in one bank and 3 NGK's in the other. So, obviously original, 16 years and 140k miles old. There was literally no electrode left on any of them.
 
Replaced the plugs on my sons truck last year shortly after he got it. 3 Denso's in one bank and 3 NGK's in the other. So, obviously original, 16 years and 140k miles old. There was literally no electrode left on any of them.

The split NGK/Denso is common of how they came from the factory - dems were some old a$$ plugs, probably, and yet it still ran.
 
It runs like a top now. i got 25 mpg on a trip to columbus and back on the highway today. That was cruising around 70-75. Before i was getting 12 mpg. LMAO
I love driving this thing. Have always wanted one. Traded my 1999 Suburban for it even. Put new Michelin Defenders on it, a new exhaust, tuned it up and changing out the antifreeze tomorrow.
Michelin Defenders: 850.00
Catback exhaust: 180.00-Midas and Carx wanted 750.00. A friend told me about a guy out in the sticks about 45 minutes away that does custom exhausts. Out by where he lived. That was for the muffler, 2 02 sensors and the rest of the pipe. Couldn't believe it. :eek:
Coil pack: 85.00
Plugs and wires: 65.00
Toyota Antifreeze: 24.00
Total: 1204.00
And i feel I'll be driving this thing hopefully for another 100k

The front brakes will be changed out in the spring. The back ones looked pretty new. I'm going to change out the rear diff gear oil this week as well.
 
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It runs like a top now. i got 25 mpg on a trip to columbus and back on the highway today. That was cruising around 70-75. Before i was getting 12 mpg. LMAO
I love driving this thing. Have always wanted one. Traded my 1999 Suburban for it even. Put new Michelin Defenders on it, a new exhaust, tuned it up and changing out the antifreeze tomorrow.
Michelin Defenders: 850.00
Catback exhaust: 180.00-Midas and Carx wanted 750.00. A friend told me about a guy out in the sticks about 45 minutes away that does custom exhausts. Out by where he lived. That was for the muffler, 2 02 sensors and the rest of the pipe. Couldn't believe it. :eek:
Coil pack: 85.00
Plugs and wires: 65.00
Toyota Antifreeze: 24.00
Total: 1204.00
And i feel I'll be driving this thing hopefully for another 100k

The front brakes will be changed out in the spring. The back ones looked pretty new. I'm going to change out the rear diff gear oil this week as well.

Nice
You should put all of this in here and start a build thread :wave:
 

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