TheDurk
Elite Member
I searched 105j250V and I found MANY different capacitance values.
105j 250v Metallized Polypropylene Film Capacitor, 105j 250v Metallized Polypropylene Film Capacitor Suppliers and Manufacturers at Alibaba.com
How To: Make Your Own Rear O2 Simulator for $5
- Thread starter Robb235
- Start date
I searched 105j250V and I found MANY different capacitance values.
105j 250v Metallized Polypropylene Film Capacitor, 105j 250v Metallized Polypropylene Film Capacitor Suppliers and Manufacturers at Alibaba.com
TheDurk
Elite Member
I searched 105j250V and I found MANY different capacitance values.
http://www.alibaba.com/showroom/105j-250v-metallized-polypropylene-film-capacitor.html
turbodudey2
New member
[MENTION=129176]ToyTaco[/MENTION] A 1µF capacitor, and a 1MΩ should work just fine. It doesn't need to be a 250V capacitor (like the RadioShack part #). A voltage rating anywhere from 5.5V to 12V is plenty. Whatever they have in stock there will work though.
And just to be clear: lower case "m" means "milli", and upper case "M" means "Mega" - big difference. I think you mentioned a 1m OHM resistor, but I'm assuming that was just a typo. If you really meant 1M OHM (as in 1,000,000 Ohms), then you're good to go.
And just to be clear: lower case "m" means "milli", and upper case "M" means "Mega" - big difference. I think you mentioned a 1m OHM resistor, but I'm assuming that was just a typo. If you really meant 1M OHM (as in 1,000,000 Ohms), then you're good to go.
Thanks guys. Dirk, the guy at the electrical shop said it was 10 plus 5 zeros. 1 000 000 equals 1.0 uF. I'm just taking the guys word. I just looked up a capacitor value chart. The third digit is the multiplier 100,000. The j stands for 5% is that better than a 10% same as the resistor?
Turbo, yes its a 1 M.
Turbo, yes its a 1 M.
TheDurk
Elite Member
Yeah, he's right. I'm a little (well, very) dated on my electronics and I honestly had never seen that style of marking capacitors. But here is the lowdown:
http://www.electronics2000.co.uk/data/itemsaf/capmarks.php
http://www.electronics2000.co.uk/calc/capacitor-code-calculator.php
So yeah, 105j is a 1µf ±5%. Anywhere you can use a 10%, a 5% will also work just fine. Capacitor or resistor. It just means the actual value is that much closer to the nominal value, and it presumably costs a little bit more.
TheDurk
Elite Member
You should do a scan to confirm the catalytic converter test is able to complete. You can't pass inspection in most places until it does. (Might not be an issue in Texas, but I'd still be curious.)
jeremyc74
Banned
That's my understanding as well. I know the 2000 models were available both ways, but I think everything after that meets CA emissions standards and has the wideband up front. I'm not sure if they did that because the federal requirements tightened up, or if it just made more sense to standardize everything as more states adopted the CA requirements.
TheDurk
Elite Member
There was a provision in the Federal law that, if enough states adopted the Cali. standard, then that would become the Federal standard. That happened in 2001. In 2000, something like 18 states had opted in, which is why you saw Cali. emissions truck all across the US.
What do you think would be the effect of using a 2.2 uF capacitor instead. I can't seem to find a 1 uF. Wiht the new headers on, I am getting 420 and 430 codes before the engine is warmed up. I dont really understand what this circuit is doing. From my understanding, a narrow band O2 sensor is kind of like a switch right? So what is happening?
TheDurk
Elite Member
No, that's for engines with dual exhaust. The 5VZ-FE and 3RZ-FE are both single exhaust and cost $119.00.
Rear Sensor Simulator - Underdog Racing Development
Robb235
Senior Member
I think it should work on all 3rd gens. Even though the upstream O2 sensor (pre-cat) varies between the years (wideband AFR sensor vs narrow band O2 sensor), the down stream sensor (after the cat) are all the narrowband type.
Robb235
Senior Member
If I had my choice, I'd go with the spark plug non-fouler method over the rear O2 simulator.
Do you have the screw-in type O2 sensor? Mine is the flange type sensor, so the non-fouler method isn't an option for me.
Hey Guys -
After getting these codes on my 2003 Lexus GX470 (obviously the same as Toyota Land Cruiser), I tried cheap options first by replacing sensors, air filter, cleaning PVC, and replacing all spark plugs. Nothing worked and I didn't have the cash to replace the cat. I found this post and decided to try it.
I got the exact parts at Radio Shack, removed my rear sensor which was a universal one I had to splice the plug into, and soldered in the parts as described. Upon plugging it back in, my scanner (Torque Pro Android App), the readings for that sensor were different. I drove about 25 miles without the lights appearing then finally passed emissions (4th attempt in 2 weeks.)
A couple of days & about 50 miles later, the lights came back on on my dash. The same code came back. After looking at readings intermittently, it seems based off the little i know that the solution sometimes works and sometimes doesn't - as if there is a short - but - I soldered the components together so there shouldn't be an issue.
My main thought is that my GX470 simply requires a different resistor or setup. Any idea if this could be why or how to verify the parts I used are correct? Passed emissions, but trying to keep dash lights off without removing bulbs
Thanks!
After getting these codes on my 2003 Lexus GX470 (obviously the same as Toyota Land Cruiser), I tried cheap options first by replacing sensors, air filter, cleaning PVC, and replacing all spark plugs. Nothing worked and I didn't have the cash to replace the cat. I found this post and decided to try it.
I got the exact parts at Radio Shack, removed my rear sensor which was a universal one I had to splice the plug into, and soldered in the parts as described. Upon plugging it back in, my scanner (Torque Pro Android App), the readings for that sensor were different. I drove about 25 miles without the lights appearing then finally passed emissions (4th attempt in 2 weeks.)
A couple of days & about 50 miles later, the lights came back on on my dash. The same code came back. After looking at readings intermittently, it seems based off the little i know that the solution sometimes works and sometimes doesn't - as if there is a short - but - I soldered the components together so there shouldn't be an issue.
My main thought is that my GX470 simply requires a different resistor or setup. Any idea if this could be why or how to verify the parts I used are correct? Passed emissions, but trying to keep dash lights off without removing bulbs
Thanks!
MattJakobs
New member
Based on this, it says all 01s have the two cat system (like mine does). I'm trying to preform this since I have the PO420.
Does this mean I need to preform the simulator on the second sensor?
MattJakobs
New member
Bump, any advice [MENTION=70922]Robb235[/MENTION]
