psraff
New member
I may have to work on that if I can't find a decent Dealership.....
How to: Replace steering rack guide- Pictures
- Thread starter yukonrider
- Start date
I may have to work on that if I can't find a decent Dealership.....
thegipper
New member
I just ordered the parts and will do this soon.
I am not really having any wandering or clunking issues but it does feel like there is slop at low speeds while going over bumps. It almost feels like the whole front end is shifting around, its not severe but I also have no way to gauge it as I just became the owner of it and only put a thousand miles on it so far. I know I have the original guide and I'm sure it is worn so I figured I might as well replace it.
I've inspected all known bushings (LCA's, UCA's, rack bushings ect) and although they may be old, I didn't see anything out of the ordinary while prying around with a crow bar.
Also, does anyone know what kind of grease is supposed to be in there? I'm assuming you want put a light layer of grease around the guide including the face where it slides on the shaft?
Thanks
I am not really having any wandering or clunking issues but it does feel like there is slop at low speeds while going over bumps. It almost feels like the whole front end is shifting around, its not severe but I also have no way to gauge it as I just became the owner of it and only put a thousand miles on it so far. I know I have the original guide and I'm sure it is worn so I figured I might as well replace it.
I've inspected all known bushings (LCA's, UCA's, rack bushings ect) and although they may be old, I didn't see anything out of the ordinary while prying around with a crow bar.
Also, does anyone know what kind of grease is supposed to be in there? I'm assuming you want put a light layer of grease around the guide including the face where it slides on the shaft?
Thanks
thegipper
New member
Wife is not home so I checked my guide bushing. All was excellent condition
Observations:
- I checked the default torque spec that my guide cap was sitting at by loosening the lock nut and setting my torque wrench to 18ft lbs as outlined. I was VERY surprised to find that I was able to rotate the threads well over a full turn, maybe more before reaching 18ft-lbs. This is on a rack that was not making any noise or having issues.
- I tried a second torque wrench to verify the spec and sure enough, 18ft lbs was very tight and bound the steering quite hard the further you turned the wheel. No chance of it returning to center.
- The rack bar is tapered to the centering point. This helps the rack return to center. So if you torque dead center at 18ft lbs, the spring is fully compressed. When you turn the wheel, the guide cannot back off and it binds. I did not try torquing to 18ft lbs when the wheel turned full lock one way or the other - then backing off as described, but I imagine it may work fine.
- When tightening the cap, you can feel when the cap makes contact with the spring and gets tighter and tighter. At a point, you will suddenly feel the back cap make contact with the guide - fully compressing the spring. This is WAY before 18ft lbs. At this point, I backed off 1/8 turn or maybe a tad more so I knew the cap / guide had a little bit of mechanical clearance.
- At 240K miles on my 4runner, the guide had virtually ZERO wear. The actual mating surface is copper or brass with a coating, very similar to a crank or rod bearing. IMO with an 01-02, there is no need to buy replacement parts. I may change my opinion if I find wear in the wifes 02 tomorrow.
Jhelms quick instruction guide for the rack guide if you have an 01-02 or if you purchased the new style guide
- Turn the wheel 1/2-1 turn to the left (VERY IMPORTANT - DO NOT MAKE THE ADJUSTMENT WITH THE RACK CENTERED)
- Loosen the lock nut
- Use whatever tool you have to rotate the large hex cap clockwise until you feel it bind (spring fully compressed)
- Back off of that setting 1/8 to 1/4 turn. This should get you on the money or close. Back off a little more if steering feels to tight
Oh... And the feel? Very nice and tight. Maybe a tad to much as the wheel is a little slow to return but I am good with it. Now I hope the clunk goes away with the wife's
My little ghetto tool made from an M16 bolt and two M16 nuts. Head is a perfect fit.
Guide Removed:
Guide at 240K miles:
Jhelms,
I just had a clunk that I finally figured out and it was the lower coilover bolt. It is supposed to be torqued to like 109ft/lbs or something like that but mine were apparently not tight enough. I hit them with the impact and got another half turn or so out of them and for 3 weeks now, the clunk is completely gone. I was only getting a clunk when turning at very low speeds and hit a bump like pulling in or out of driveway.
It's worth checking....
diverscale
Member
You are talking about a modified suspension, right? coilovers?
I am having a misterious clunk, same as described by Jhelms, felt in the floor, would like to know more precisely which bolt you are talking about
Also, Jhelms, have you figured out your misterious clunk?
I am really baffled by mine, only happens when normally turning, at low to low-medium speed, no bumps, and is intermittent. Thought it might be that steering rack guide, but I don't feel the clunk in the steering, I feel it in the floor by my feet.
thegipper
New member
Your clunk seems different than mine. Mine would only make noise when you hit a bump at low speeds like pulling into a driveway. I'd check your motor/tranny mounts. Anyways, here is the bolt. It's the lower coilover bolt and my 4R does not have a modified suspension.
Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk
Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk
floatingkiwi
Member
110ft/lbs is quite high, its putting both your arms into a lot of force on a 1/2" drive powerbar.
diverscale
Member
Ok thanks, just looked at those, and they don't seem to be the culprit.
Have dismantled the steering rack guide system, re-greased it and torqued it back on at the limit of the spring. Seems to have fixed the clunk (provisory condition) in the 20 minute ride I just did.
thegipper
New member
I did this today, piece of cake! It's about time something was easy to fix on this thing.
I torqued it to exactly 18 ft/lbs. I then took a protractor and marked off 19 degrees and backed it off to my mark. I took it for a drive and it was perfect. There was much less slop and a nice and firm feel to it. No issues with coming out of a turn so it's spot on.
Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk
I torqued it to exactly 18 ft/lbs. I then took a protractor and marked off 19 degrees and backed it off to my mark. I took it for a drive and it was perfect. There was much less slop and a nice and firm feel to it. No issues with coming out of a turn so it's spot on.
Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk
Last edited:
JBurt
Senior Member
Yes.
BoomSticks
Member
Ok, what am I missing?
My sway bar is so close to my steering rack, I can't even get the coupler into the socket to try and get the cap out.
My sway bar is so close to my steering rack, I can't even get the coupler into the socket to try and get the cap out.
I took a quick read through this thread and it doesn't seem like the new guide wears out? Does anyone know if this is true?
Reason why I ask is because I'm wondering if it's ok to take the parts from an old donor vehicle (00-02) and just swap that in + torque properly. Hard to justify $80 in parts from the dealer when I'll likely have to replace the entire rack sometime in the future anyways.
Reason why I ask is because I'm wondering if it's ok to take the parts from an old donor vehicle (00-02) and just swap that in + torque properly. Hard to justify $80 in parts from the dealer when I'll likely have to replace the entire rack sometime in the future anyways.
Mudeprived
New member
I got a question about the torque specs on this. I tightened to 18 ft lbs but the threaded piece was barely threaded in (maybe 3 or 4 threads) and there was a ton of play still there. I was no where near the "2 threads left" like the OP. I had to keep tightening it until it was almost fully threaded in like the OP's picture.
Why is the 18 ft lbs not working for me but work for others?
I bought all four pieces if it matters.
Why is the 18 ft lbs not working for me but work for others?
I bought all four pieces if it matters.
19963.4lsr5
New member
May be dirt in the threads.........
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Mudeprived
New member
Turns out it was fine as it is. I drove it and all signs of play/wobble/etc are gone. It's smooth like new.
I did install all new BJ's and Tie rods so that may have helped too.
stever1000
New member
I have a mysterious clunk when near full rotation left or right... looks like this may be a contender for a solution!
shootmymime
New member
I'd say it's actually the bump stops on the control arm and spindle touching like they should. It's a small flat metal portion that can contact as a steering stop
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
stever1000
New member
I greased the two surfaces on each side and it still makes the sound. I can actually feel it I think. Does this sound right?
