I've carefully read over your discussions, and to sum up your points, you posit that this sliding disconnect will have no impact on available upward wheel travel because the sway bar will not impact articulation offroad. However, the sway bar does make a difference in sway control on road, at high speed.
That is not the case. The concept that these sliding disconnects would make no difference would be predicated on the idea that this suspension loading situation at high speed (truck turning right):
[insert Ford joke here]
Is different than this suspension loading situation off road:
[A Ford offroad? Don't worry, tow trucks are standing by]
As you can see, that is not the case at all. The suspension loading is precisely the same in both scenarios.
A sway bar, as our trucks have, is a simple linear spring that connects one wheel to the other across the chassis. If both front wheels move together, no force is induced by the sway bar. If only one wheel moves upwards, the sway bar will resist that upward movement in correlation with the sway bars' effective spring rate.
By allowing the sway bar some free-span on the sliding link, it will induce less force overall to the extremes of available wheel travel.
Duffdog, it would be very likely that your truck does not experience these apparent changes in sway bar action because A) Weight slung far over the front axle, increasing effective axle weight dramatically. B) Very heavy wheels, requiring more spring rate to control than the C) Worn out sway bar can now impart, due to it having been flexed to its extremes far too many times by your long history of offroading.
Your OEM sway bar is likely a toothpick trying to control sway on a battle tank at this point. Its effective spring rate is not substantial enough to make a notable difference.
KDSS, X-REAS, Auto-disconnect bars, (electronic/magnetic shocks?) are all fancy systems to allow the sway bars to only act in certain situations and under specific loading conditions. Unfortunately, we are subject to the whims of steel, and it does not care if the load is momentum from chassis kinematics under driving conditions, or stuffing a wheel to get over an obstacle.
The points made about the assembly flying apart during driving, yes, that can happen with any non-OEM assembly, or any OEM assembly not properly maintained, for that matter. I've broken endlinks on the race track and it certainly puckered up the ol' behind. Not something I'd look forward to, but that's the nature of the business.