I decided to re-gear

[wfo9]

After much thought about my next mod and where I want to take my build long term, I decided to re-gear to 4.56 and put in ARB air lockers while at it. I was originally set on doing a bumper first, but decided to see what other options become available.

I ordered the assembled 3rd member and front clamshell from East Coast gear supply. I should have them sometime next week.

I will try to document the install here (or create a build thread).

If anyone has done this install already, feel free to chime in with any tips that make it easier.

 

[1engineer]

Might help
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/1070983-post341.html
[MENTION=8206]harper7[/MENTION] said "Anyone with a hint of mechanical aptitude can do this..." although I think his definition of mechanical aptitude would differ greatly from some of the others here lol.

 

[Intruder]

although I think his definition of mechanical aptitude would differ greatly from some of the others here lol.

I replaced my own headlight fluid the other day.

 

[dwm2112]

I replaced my own headlight fluid the other day.

Hope you used synthetic fluid! :lol:

 

[03_4x4Runner]

I think you will love the results when you regear. It will feel like the 4runner is 1000 lbs. lighter and throttle response will be much improved. At least this was the result I got when regeared my old Jeep Wrangler. That thing turned into a dog when I put 33s on it but felt very powerfull again after the regear. Makes it much more fun to drive.

 

[Jeremy556]

I'd use RTV instead of Toyota's gasket for the rear 3rd.
Depending on mileage, you may want to replace some of the axle seals and what not.
Have 2 part number 9030183002 on hand, they are O rings for the rear axle shafts. 1 of mine split during removal.
Make sure you have the large metric allen for the rear mount of the front diff and a (iirc) 46mm socket for the front axle bolts.
Maneuvering the front diff during removal/reinstall is a real PITA.

For break in, I just put it in 4hi whenever driving straight for the first 500 miles. Don't be alarmed at the metal chunks and shavings that come out after the break in.

 

[RiDE]

This definitely something I want to do eventually. What's your total cost for parts so far?

 

[wfo9]

This definitely something I want to do eventually. What's your total cost for parts so far?

I don't have a total cost yet, but it will be ~3200 - 3500 depending on what little parts and compressor I use... That's after I get back about 1,100 in core charges.

 

[wfo9]

I'd use RTV instead of Toyota's gasket for the rear 3rd.
Depending on mileage, you may want to replace some of the axle seals and what not.
Have 2 part number 9030183002 on hand, they are O rings for the rear axle shafts. 1 of mine split during removal.
Make sure you have the large metric allen for the rear mount of the front diff and a (iirc) 46mm socket for the front axle bolts.
Maneuvering the front diff during removal/reinstall is a real PITA.

For break in, I just put it in 4hi whenever driving straight for the first 500 miles. Don't be alarmed at the metal chunks and shavings that come out after the break in.

Good info, Do you know the size of the allen is required? Did you run different fluid for the break in? I'm guessing they will send break in procedures with the diffs.

 

[wfo9]

Might help
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/1070983-post341.html
[MENTION=8206]harper7[/MENTION] said "Anyone with a hint of mechanical aptitude can do this..." although I think his definition of mechanical aptitude would differ greatly from some of the others here lol.

Cool, looks like the rear brakes can stay intact while pulling the 3rd. I was wondering about that.

 

[Jeremy556]

Good info, Do you know the size of the allen is required? Did you run different fluid for the break in? I'm guessing they will send break in procedures with the diffs.

12mm. I used the Lucas 85w-140 they recommend, but bought a few gallons from Autoplicity. The gallons are much easier to use, less likely to tip over, and cheaper than the quart bottles.

New Gear Break-In Procedure

New gear sets MUST be broken in correctly to prevent damage. Not following proper break-in procedures will lead to overloading and overheating the ring and pinion as well as breaking down and ruining the gear oil. Not following proper break-in procedures can be determined during inspection and will void the warranty.

Please follow the below guidelines to ensure a proper break-in and long life of your gears.
• Only use high quality gear oils. ECGS recommends Lucas non-synthetic 85W-140
• On initial run, drive lightly for 15 to 20 minutes then stop to allow differential to cool completely for 20 to 25 minutes.
• Avoid towing and heavy acceleration, as well as vary speeds every 5 to 10 minutes while driving on highways.
• Drive conservatively and do not drive more than 50 miles at a time without allowing a cool cycle during the first 500 miles following installation.
• After completing initial break-in, change gear oil at 500 miles. Small metal particles are normal and gear oil will typically be black. Excessive metal in gear oil should be reviewed by a competent differential mechanic to ensure safety of internal parts.

Post gear oil change and initial break-in: Towing.
• First time towing should be limited to light load for no more than 15 miles, then allow differential to cool completely for 20 to 25 minutes.
• Repeat this procedure for first 45 miles of towing for full break-in of gears for towing vehicles.


PREMATURE OVERLOADING AND IMPROPER BREAK-IN WILL CAUSE GEAR OIL BREAKDOWN AND MAY RESULT IN RING AND PINION FAILURE VOIDING THE GEAR WARRANTY!

 

[Jeremy556]

Cool, looks like the rear brakes can stay intact while pulling the 3rd. I was wondering about that.

As long as the damn O ring isn't split and you have to pull the axle shaft all the way out. The parking brakes are a ***** to get the shoe holders back on, because they are behind the axle flange. I spent as much time doing that, as the rest of the install. Regular bendix tools don't work.

 

[Jeremy556]

One last thing: relocate the rear diff breather, and make sure both diff breathers are 2 way, not 1 way (stock). If you don't, gear oil will get sucked into the air line, which you'll have to pull the diff to fix.

I ran all my breathers into the engine compartment and replaced the 1 way valves with a small universal fuel filter.

 

[fattire]

Sub'd (since I hope to be helping next weekend!)

 

[wfo9]

One last thing: relocate the rear diff breather, and make sure both diff breathers are 2 way, not 1 way (stock). If you don't, gear oil will get sucked into the air line, which you'll have to pull the diff to fix.

I ran all my breathers into the engine compartment and replaced the 1 way valves with a small universal fuel filter.

I thought the front was already a two way breather, but I will verify when I pull it out. Do you know if the threads are standard. I had already ordered the parts to convert the rear to a full breather (still need to pick up the parts from the stealership).

 

[harper7]

After much thought about my next mod and where I want to take my build long term, I decided to re-gear to 4.56 and put in ARB air lockers while at it. I was originally set on doing a bumper first, but decided to see what other options become available.

I ordered the assembled 3rd member and front clamshell from East Coast gear supply. I should have them sometime next week.

I will try to document the install here (or create a build thread).

If anyone has done this install already, feel free to chime in with any tips that make it easier.

Congrats! You'll love them. The front clamshell can be a biatch,as it's awkward shaped and should take 2 people and a floor/transmission jack that can go pretty high. The front drain/fill plugs are 10mm allen ,not 12mm and get a good socket on breaker bar or long ratchet for leverage as you do not want to strip these plugs out with a cheap allen wrench.

The axle nuts are 35mm and you'll need a big breaker bar and I used a hollow pipe as a cheater as it's tight. I you don't have a torque wrench that goes up to 174 ft/lbs when it goes back on just mark where it was with a marker or scribe before taking it off and tighten it back to where it was. All the tools/torques I got from the repair manual or in these write-ups.

Here's some great DIY's on the FJ forum.
Clamshell Swap - Toyota FJ Cruiser Forum

3rd Member Swap - Toyota FJ Cruiser Forum

CV AXLE: Replacement and repair w/ pics - Toyota FJ Cruiser Forum

 

[cbielat]

[MENTION=106176]wfo9[/MENTION] Dude! I don't know if you've seen it or not, but we have a group buy about to start come November for ARB lockers and regearing in the General section. You might as well add yourself to the list.

 

[cbielat]

Nevermind. You already had done it.

 

[Jeremy556]

I thought the front was already a two way breather, but I will verify when I pull it out. Do you know if the threads are standard. I had already ordered the parts to convert the rear to a full breather (still need to pick up the parts from the stealership).

Not sure, didn't check. It looked exactly like the rear diff breather. For everything up front, there are already hoses attached and the breathers are in the engine compartment, near the master cylinder. I just pulled them all off and used T's and hose clamps to connect them all together and into my breather (universal fuel filter).

 

[Jeremy556]

The front drain/fill plugs are 10mm allen ,not 12mm

Drain is 10mm, but the rear mounting bolt is 12mm.

That's right, 35mm, not 36, though I heard a 36 will work. I did the same, instead of getting a new, huge torque wrench, I used a paint pen to make match marks, then used an impact gun to remove/reinstall the bolts.