I found "The One", 2001 Sport Ed. TRD SC'd

[BigFishAllDay]

Alright... lots of work getting done, and lots of catching up to do. I'll try to keep this brief...

First, I snapped the breather tube off my ADD actuator while taking apart the ADD system. So, I picked up some brass tubing and sleeved it for reinforcement, then stuck it all together with some epoxy.

I recently discovered that the neck snapped off almost entirely on the factory airbox. I assume this is due to the 1/2" body lift combined with the limited flexibility in the AIRAID MIT tube. I removed it and attempted a repair with epoxy, but I can tell it is still flexing and will eventually crack again.

Well, I recently removed the AFE intake from my Tacoma to deal with some issues I was having tuning it in higher gears at high RPMs. The Tacoma is running much better with a stock airbox, so the AFE was just sitting around. I figured why not? This is the setup with the Pro-Dry S oil-less filter, which got a thorough cleaning prior to install.

I had the P/S CV support bearing pressed onto the intermediate shaft by my mechanic, and re-assembled the ADD tube with all new seals/o-rings.

While I was re-spooling the line after winching out of my situation, I realized that while my in-cab controls are nice, I need something that will let me control the winch from outside of the vehicle. I had a plug in for the remote located in the DS footwell when I was running the Smittybilt, but have not set up a plug in connection for the wired controller on the new Warn. The plug for the Warn isn't as easy to relocate as the Smittybilt, so I went wireless.

These things are $15 on Amazon and work great. I extended the antenna wire by 5 feet so it has great range and very little delay in switching the winch on/off.

I located the receiver behind the fuse box with 3M double sided tape.

While piggybacking the wiring, I cleaned everything up with quick disconnects for the winch control wiring to the cab/wireless box.

Last week ECGS shipped my diff back (more on that later), so I started getting ready to reassemble and install. Well, I got to looking at my stub shaft and I'm glad I did... notice anything funny?

Look CLOSER... Twisted splines and stress cracks all around. This would have let go on the next hard obstacle I ran, making for MORE fun. Thank goodness I caught it.

I have a spare on hand, but it has some mileage on it, and I really don't want to do this again soon, so I ordered a new one. It arrived today, so the diff will go back in over the weekend.

The LCA mount on the frame has been fully straightened (as best I could), welded, and re-painted. I welded the alignment cam tab and a few other small cracks in surrounding welds that resulted from the bending of the bracket.

Afterward I hung the DS LCA, installed the new alignment hardware, and painted the crossmember.

The old arms got a thorough cleaning, a new paint job, and a fresh set of Whiteline LCA bushings. These are ready to install and will likely be for sale, so if anyone is interested, send me a PM.

A comparison shot of Whitelines vs. OEM bushings...

 

[BigFishAllDay]

Continued...

I went on to pull both of the SPC upper control arms to inspect the bushings and replace the UBJs. I ended up replacing the bushings only on the PS arm, because the DS bushings were in great shape. The DS bushings got a thorough cleaning and fresh grease. That leaves me with a set of two bushings (one complete arm) for the future, just in case. I have read reports that replacing the SPC bushings is a challenge, but I found it to be a piece of cake using some 1/2" all-thread as recommended in the SPC instructions.

I installed the new UBJs and set them with a hair more negative camber adjustment than my last set. The "D" setting (+2.0 degrees) has worked very well for me, so I stuck with that. Each UBJ got 20 pumps of Lucas Red-N-Tacky grease and I added a cover for the zerks.

Before I forget (no pictures), I also adjusted my coilovers down by 2 full rotations of the collar on each side... that's about 1/8" at each collar. I'm hoping to lower the front ride height by about 1/2" as it has been riding a little high. I lubricated the upper and lower heim joints on the coilovers with Tri-Flow PTFE lubricant to keep them happy as well.

The other day I got bored and had a few minutes, so I pulled the rear wind deflector and gave it a fresh coat of paint. It was faded to a dark grey and I have been meaning to refurbish it for a long time.

I was missing a fender liner on the DS, so that got taken care of...

And I found my "next victim", a used OEM joint, and gave it a fresh inner boot and some new grease. The outer boot was in great shape, as they typically are. I forgot to put match marks on the axle shaft / tulip joint before disassembly, so I am not 100% sure that the inner joint is clocked to the outer joint as it came from the factory, but as far as I understand it doesn't really matter. Does anyone out there know?

Oddball factory parts waiting to go in...

And last, but not least...

HUGE shout out to East Coast Gear Supply for their incredible customer service!!!!

The guys at ECGS turned my diff around in less than 2 days and did all the work under warranty. They opened the clamshell and replaced everything that was damaged along with all the seals on the ARB air locker. Total cost was the shipping charges to and from ECGS... about $80.

 

[A.Wilson013]

Glad to see the ol’ 4Runner still being put through the paces.

I too paid to have my timing belt changed a few months ago. It was nice: dropped it off in the morning, told them I was going snowboarding so they gave me a new RX as a loaner, got some turns in, headed back to a nice clean vehicle ready to go another 90k.

Way better than a “wasted” weekend busting knuckles in the garage.

 

[Road Bull]

That is awesome that ECGS covered the damage and did it so quickly. Looks like you have been banging out the maintenance for sure. I have been putting off a couple of simple items till the weather starts to comply with a little more in the sunshine department.

 

[habanero]

Sweet update, especially the winch controller part as I've begun working out what I want to do with mine and want inside and outside options.

Also, all that shininess is pretty.

 

[owyheerat]

BFAD, glad to see you're getting it put back together, and it looks like (as always) your going the extra mile to make it better than before.

SO GLAD to hear that about ECGS! It's nice to know there are still a few companies that offer exceptional customer service.

And thanks for the taking the time to post this update, with great details.

Durwin

 

[amalik]

Out of reading the whole story, my biggest *sigh* of relief was when you came back the next morning or whatever and *DIDNT* find the rig all gutted for parts. I mean, it isn't likely to happen with fellow campers, BUT YOU NEVER KNOW!

 

[theesotericone]

While I was re-spooling the line after winching out of my situation, I realized that while my in-cab controls are nice, I need something that will let me control the winch from outside of the vehicle. I had a plug in for the remote located in the DS footwell when I was running the Smittybilt, but have not set up a plug in connection for the wired controller on the new Warn. The plug for the Warn isn't as easy to relocate as the Smittybilt, so I went wireless.

These things are $15 on Amazon and work great. I extended the antenna wire by 5 feet so it has great range and very little delay in switching the winch on/off.

I'm using that same 15 buck wireless kit from Amazon. Have been for over a year. The batteries in the larger remote died and I've been using the smaller key ring remote. It works great. I'll have to look into extending the antenna. That's a very good idea that I never thought of. Thanks.

Glad to here ECGS treated you well. Stories like yours are why they will be building my diffs in a few months.

 

[AssBurns]

Thanks for the share on the wireless winch controller. I’ve always wanted to wire a switch to my dash for the winch but the idea of having the remote is even better since you can get out of the vehicle with it too. I have my current winch control box under the hood so a wireless remote would definitely be much faster and easier than my current setup. Just bought one.

Ever thought about getting the ADD stub shaft Cryo’d? I think I’m gonna do that when I replace my diff. For about $100 or so, it’ll be some cheap insurance to hopefully keep the CV’s as the weak link.

 

[BigFishAllDay]

Glad to see the ol’ 4Runner still being put through the paces.

I too paid to have my timing belt changed a few months ago. It was nice: dropped it off in the morning, told them I was going snowboarding so they gave me a new RX as a loaner, got some turns in, headed back to a nice clean vehicle ready to go another 90k.

Way better than a “wasted” weekend busting knuckles in the garage.

For as long as I own her, Alex.

This front end rebuild I had to do myself just because the labor cost would have been atrocious, but I definitely place a higher value on my time these days, and sometimes it's better to pay up. Most of the recent work has been done between 12am and 3am when my family is in bed but I can't sleep.

I'm glad to see you show up around here from time to time, and hope you are thoroughly enjoying the GX. They always tempt me as a next move, but I can't get past the rear door and the tallish looking rear profile. If I went to the 120 platform it would be in an 06-09 V8 4Runner.

That is awesome that ECGS covered the damage and did it so quickly. Looks like you have been banging out the maintenance for sure. I have been putting off a couple of simple items till the weather starts to comply with a little more in the sunshine department.

It sure is awesome. I need to get on Google and leave them a review. This truck is like new, Ryder. I have gone through everything in the last few months, she literally needs nothing. Once this round is done it will be all trips and oil changes for the next year or two unless something breaks.

Sweet update, especially the winch controller part as I've begun working out what I want to do with mine and want inside and outside options.

Also, all that shininess is pretty.

Yeah, the front undercarriage is pretty clean at this point. I have spent 15-20 minutes of each wrenching session scrubbing the dark corners with degreaser and it shows. Every nut, bolt, washer, and part was fully degreased and cleaned before install. I went a little overboard.

The winch controller is a no brainer at $15. I have the same one in the Tacoma, and they are very easy to install once you ID which wires do what at the winch box.

BFAD, glad to see you're getting it put back together, and it looks like (as always) your going the extra mile to make it better than before.

SO GLAD to hear that about ECGS! It's nice to know there are still a few companies that offer exceptional customer service.

And thanks for the taking the time to post this update, with great details.

You know I am. The 4Runner has gotten quite a few upgrades over the course of this repair and a few big ones are still to come.

Companies of that nature are getting rare, which is why I patronize them. Even if the cost is a little higher it's worth it to do my part to support their business. For instance, I always shop ACE True Value stores over Home Depot or Lowes because they are helpful and they always have the most obscure hard to find items that I come up needing for projects. I can always bank on getting what I need fast, versus wandering the big box stores and coming up empty handed.

Thanks for taking the time to read.

Out of reading the whole story, my biggest *sigh* of relief was when you came back the next morning or whatever and *DIDNT* find the rig all gutted for parts. I mean, it isn't likely to happen with fellow campers, BUT YOU NEVER KNOW!

Me too. I didn't sleep very well that night.

I'm using that same 15 buck wireless kit from Amazon. Have been for over a year. The batteries in the larger remote died and I've been using the smaller key ring remote. It works great. I'll have to look into extending the antenna. That's a very good idea that I never thought of. Thanks.

Glad to here ECGS treated you well. Stories like yours are why they will be building my diffs in a few months.

I replaced the batteries right out of the box with Duracells. The cheap Chinese batteries that are in there will just leak eventually with non-use and destroy the remotes. I keep them in my recovery bag as spares. It's funny because those little A23/A27 batteries are almost as expensive as the controller setup.

I didn't do a before/after test of range on the antenna, but my logic tells me 5 feet is better than one for operating range/consistent response.

I'm glad to send another customer to Chase and the guys at ECGS.

Thanks for the share on the wireless winch controller. I’ve always wanted to wire a switch to my dash for the winch but the idea of having the remote is even better since you can get out of the vehicle with it too. I have my current winch control box under the hood so a wireless remote would definitely be much faster and easier than my current setup. Just bought one.

Ever thought about getting the ADD stub shaft Cryo’d? I think I’m gonna do that when I replace my diff. For about $100 or so, it’ll be some cheap insurance to hopefully keep the CV’s as the weak link.

You're welcome. I actually got the idea from [MENTION=121903]Black798[/MENTION] , and I believe the controller I'm using is an older version of what he has. The thing comes with two remotes to boot, so you have a spare.

I thought about cryo treatment, but there isn't a good local option that I know of, and I feel pretty good about a new OEM stub. I definitely agree on keeping the CVs as the weak link. I have looked at Lotus axles many times, but would much rather replace CVs than pull the front diff. I will say though, that with three diff R&Rs under my belt, it's getting pretty routine.

 

[BigFishAllDay]

At last, project "Front End Rebuild" is done.

I put the 4Runner back together last Friday and have been driving it around to feel things out. So far, so good, with no strange noises, vibrations, etc. The front end feels great with all new bushings, and I'm getting it aligned tomorrow. It's been almost 3 years since I had an alignment done (at a shop, that is.. I've done a few touchups), so it will be nice to have a fresh start.

Here's the last set of highlights:

Once I got the last package from Camelback Toyota I went to work. I popped the new stub shaft in and re-assembled the front diff/ADD system with Toyota Orange FIPG...

New LBJ bolts, as always, every time I take them apart.

I had to get a new LBJ protector because I tore the old one by installing a bolt without a washer in the wrong location. I got in a hurry when I was putting it back together by the river.

The MAF meter got a new O-Ring because the existing ring was a bit flattened and not fitting tightly into the AFE intake tube...

Stainless steel front brake lines from Wheelers Off Road finally got installed, and the front brakes bled...

The hatch struts were getting a little lazy on cold mornings and at altitude, and I happened to come across a deal on some Strong Arm brand replacements. I've had good luck with these on my wife's 4th gen, so I went for it on the '01. The new struts work great and take the hatch right to the top. Strong Arm part #4286.

All ready for a test drive...

I also de-stickered the rig, except for my favorites. I removed the two TEQ decals on either side, a Wolf Creek/RG Natl. Forest and a fish sticker from the back window, the jolly roger and gadsen flags from the rack, a Stay the Trails CO sticker on the swing out, and the TRD vinyl decal by the shifter.

The "I believe" bigfoot sticker stays, along with two Rep Your Water decals.

The pop pin on the CBI swing arm got swapped for a fresh one, making the opening swing / lock nice and smooth. The shackles came off the rear bumper and went into the new recovery bag. Finally I put some fresh plastidip on the "4Runner" emblem, taking it back to all black instead of having the "4R" chrome and the "unner" black.

I found some flaws in the organization of my gear when I needed it, and am playing with some ideas/improvements. Harbor Freight sells a 15" tool bag for $11 that works great for a recovery gear bag. I got my all my recovery gear in one place, with room to spare. This makes it easy to move the gear back and forth between the Tacoma and the 4Runner.

Tree strap, snatch strap, chain, snatch block, 5 shackles, pliers, gloves, and extra winch remote batteries... The 50 feet of rope is always there too, because I learned from the movie Boondock Saints that you always "get your stupid ****in' rope".

I also snagged couple of these guys for $10 a piece to give myself some options.

 

[BigFishAllDay]

With all the maintenance and repairs out of the way, I had to do SOMETHING that was fun. Something that was an upgrade.

So, I cut up some metal and welded some stuff.

It has always bugged me that the factory fog light connections are unused. I mean, it's free light, already wired up and ready to go. I have looked high and low for some LED pods that are tiny but bright and finally found some to fit the bill. I made some mounts for them, and found a sweet spot to tuck them. After some quick mods to the wiring, I'll be able to use them anytime (headlights on/off/brights, etc) and have a little more light up front. 10W Cree LEDs good for 900 lumens each in a 30 degree spot beam.

Next up, it was time to finally devise a solution for mounting my Rotopax fuel containers on the roof rack. I have had these things since I won T4ROTM (remember that, old school fellas?) back in 2011 or 2012 and could have used them a few times. The setup is pretty self explanatory. Materials are 16ga sheet for the mounting plate, 0.125 wall 1" tube for the uprights, and 0.125" sheet for the retainer bar.

I'll be swapping the standard nuts for wing nuts for easy removal of the Rotopax, and will drill the bolts for locks and/or use a cable lock for security. The slotted mounting holes allow for mounting the system in any location on the rack.

Last but not least, I did a thing. Maybe a dumb thing, but a thing. The '01 has had the same wheels since 2010, and I figured some new wheels would really set it off considering it has come a long way since then.

With the Discount Tire Ebay sale going strong, I may do another dumb thing as well. I'm not super happy with the KO2s.

 

[jmferg]

With all the maintenance and repairs out of the way, I had to do SOMETHING that was fun.



Last but not least, I did a thing. Maybe a dumb thing, but a thing. The '01 has had the same wheels since 2010, and I figured some new wheels would really set it off considering it has come a long way since then.

With the Discount Tire Ebay sale going strong, I may do another dumb thing as well. I'm not super happy with the KO2s.

I support this decision. I can't call it dumb because I did the same thing with wheels and tires this week from the same vendors...

That will really change the attitude of your rig


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[YOTAGUY93]

Hey I’m new around here but I wanted to compliment you on your rig. I hope I can build something half as great someday.

 

[theesotericone]

I'm not super happy with the KO2s.

Where have I heard that before? lol

The ST Maxx seems like a really good tire. I'm pretty sure [MENTION=116387]Unner[/MENTION] is running them and likes them a lot.

I was between the Coopers and the Nitto Ridge Grappler. I ended up going with the Ridge Grapplers and will never run another tire unless they stop making them. For what I do they are that good. If there not on your radar take a look at them.

 

[BigFishAllDay]

I support this decision. I can't call it dumb because I did the same thing with wheels and tires this week from the same vendors...

That will really change the attitude of your rig.

I guess I say it may have been dumb because the wheels I have now are perfectly functional, look fine, and fit all my needs. They just don't look as cool as a new set. Plopping down almost $1K for looks alone just rubs my practical side the wrong way. I have had the ProComps so long and gotten used to the look, I think I'm actually going to miss them.

Hey I’m new around here but I wanted to compliment you on your rig. I hope I can build something half as great someday.

Thanks for taking the time to post, and thank you for the compliment! Carve out lots of time and allocate lots of money and you'll get there.

Where have I heard that before? lol

The ST Maxx seems like a really good tire. I'm pretty sure Unner is running them and likes them a lot.

I was between the Coopers and the Nitto Ridge Grappler. I ended up going with the Ridge Grapplers and will never run another tire unless they stop making them. For what I do they are that good. If there not on your radar take a look at them.

RoadBull suggested those as well, but I just ordered a set of 16" wheels and it looks like the Ridge Grappler is only avail in sizes 17" and up, so it's a definite no-go.

The STT Pro and MTRs are at the top of my list. The ST Maxx is probably my third choice. We'll see how it goes, I just want to try something new.

 

[4Running Daily]

I guess I say it may have been dumb because the wheels I have now are perfectly functional, look fine, and fit all my needs. They just don't look as cool as a new set. Plopping down almost $1K for looks alone just rubs my practical side the wrong way. I have had the ProComps so long and gotten used to the look, I think I'm actually going to miss them.



Thanks for taking the time to post, and thank you for the compliment! Carve out lots of time and allocate lots of money and you'll get there.



RoadBull suggested those as well, but I just ordered a set of 16" wheels and it looks like the Ridge Grappler is only avail in sizes 17" and up, so it's a definite no-go.

The STT Pro and MTRs are at the top of my list. The ST Maxx is probably my third choice. We'll see how it goes, I just want to try something new.

I think you made a good choice. I don't think you would have liked the MTR's on road and they kind of suck in snow.

 

[BigFishAllDay]

I think you made a good choice. I don't think you would have liked the MTR's on road and they kind of suck in snow.

Many people mention balance issues with the MTRs as well.

I tend to run a set of tires for 20-30K miles and then sell them off before they're worthless. I figure I can craigslist my current wheel/tire setup complete for about $1200 and it'll pay for the Coopers. The BFGs only have about 8K on them...

----------------------------------------------------------------------------

Also,

Got the alignment done today and it came out BEAUTIFULLY!!! It really wasn't too far off to begin with, surprisingly.

3.3 caster on the right and 3.1 on the left to account for road crown and everything else zeroed. Front cams in, back cams out for full firewall clearance. SPCs on "D" for +2.0 caster and set with the UBJ ~1/4" inboard from the outside edge of the slot to dial in some negative camber at the UBJ.

I'm always amazed at the trouble people have getting good alignments.

 

[Unner]

At last, project "Front End Rebuild" is done.

The hatch struts were getting a little lazy on cold mornings and at altitude, and I happened to come across a deal on some Strong Arm brand replacements. I've had good luck with these on my wife's 4th gen, so I went for it on the '01. The new struts work great and take the hatch right to the top. Strong Arm part #4286.

The pop pin on the CBI swing arm got swapped for a fresh one, making the opening swing / lock nice and smooth. The shackles came off the rear bumper and went into the new recovery bag. Finally I put some fresh plastidip on the "4Runner" emblem, taking it back to all black instead of having the "4R" chrome and the "unner" black.


I also snagged couple of these guys for $10 a piece to give myself some options.

Glad she's back up and running, better than ever. I've had those lift supports on my hatch for awhile. They work good in the summer even with the ladder, in the winter they don't hold it up very well though. I think they have a lifetime warranty so I might swap them if I can find the receipt. I need to replace one of the pins on my bumper as well, it's got some play in it and I think it's causing a rattle from my bumper. Those bags look really good for $10!

I think you purposefully peeled the plastidip off the 4R to be like me :thumb3:

It has always bugged me that the factory fog light connections are unused. I mean, it's free light, already wired up and ready to go. I have looked high and low for some LED pods that are tiny but bright and finally found some to fit the bill. I made some mounts for them, and found a sweet spot to tuck them. After some quick mods to the wiring, I'll be able to use them anytime (headlights on/off/brights, etc) and have a little more light up front. 10W Cree LEDs good for 900 lumens each in a 30 degree spot beam.


Next up, it was time to finally devise a solution for mounting my Rotopax fuel containers on the roof rack. I have had these things since I won T4ROTM (remember that, old school fellas?) back in 2011 or 2012 and could have used them a few times. The setup is pretty self explanatory. Materials are 16ga sheet for the mounting plate, 0.125 wall 1" tube for the uprights, and 0.125" sheet for the retainer bar.

I'll be swapping the standard nuts for wing nuts for easy removal of the Rotopax, and will drill the bolts for locks and/or use a cable lock for security. The slotted mounting holes allow for mounting the system in any location on the rack.

Last but not least, I did a thing. Maybe a dumb thing, but a thing. The '01 has had the same wheels since 2010, and I figured some new wheels would really set it off considering it has come a long way since then.

With the Discount Tire Ebay sale going strong, I may do another dumb thing as well. I'm not super happy with the KO2s.

I did the same thing with wiring some of my Rigid lights into my stock fog light wiring. The only negative is the headlights have to be on to be able to use them, unless you want to bypass that feature. Being able to flip them off and on with the stock switch is very convenient though.

Definitely not a dumb thing. I've considered getting a set of SCS or FN wheels myself, I'm just really picky about wheels and there's very few that I like enough to spend that kind of money on. It would be nice to save a few pounds over my OEM Trail wheels though.

Where have I heard that before? lol

The ST Maxx seems like a really good tire. I'm pretty sure [MENTION=116387]Unner[/MENTION] is running them and likes them a lot.

I was between the Coopers and the Nitto Ridge Grappler. I ended up going with the Ridge Grapplers and will never run another tire unless they stop making them. For what I do they are that good. If there not on your radar take a look at them.

Yup, I've got the ST Maxx. Those are STT Pros in the picture, which I've also heard really good things about.

I guess I say it may have been dumb because the wheels I have now are perfectly functional, look fine, and fit all my needs. They just don't look as cool as a new set. Plopping down almost $1K for looks alone just rubs my practical side the wrong way. I have had the ProComps so long and gotten used to the look, I think I'm actually going to miss them.

The STT Pro and MTRs are at the top of my list. The ST Maxx is probably my third choice. We'll see how it goes, I just want to try something new.

I love the look of the MTRs, but the road manners would be a no go for me. The ST Maxx are a really good tire, I'm extremely happy with mine. They're still quiet for such an aggressive tire, and they grip like there's no tomorrow. I've got 25k on mine and at this rate they'll make it to 75k easily with my 5 tire rotation. I think Cooper is really putting a lot of effort into new tire technologies, while companies like BFG and Goodyear are riding on their reputation in some aspects.

 

[Black798]

[MENTION=44220]BigFishAllDay[/MENTION] thanks for bringing up the discount tire sale. I need to get a new set of tires as well. I chunked out the sidewall of one mine pretty bad in Moab this week and the others are starting to get pretty worn.

If you're looking for a tire with better snow performance than the KO2 take a look at the falken wildpeak at3. Ive had mine for a little over a year and have been really impressed with their performance in pretty much any terrain. Theyre quite a bit cheaper than the STT Pros too