I've changed starters in a couple of late 80's pick ups (4cyl) and a 95 4runner (V6). Nothing to it, but you have to take your time to snake it out. It will only come out one way. If you snake the replacement starter in the wrong way, you can't turn it to mount it and will have to snake it out, and back in the correct way. If it won't snake out, you don't have it turned right to come out.
If you ever plan on removing your starter, read this first.
- Thread starter LINY4Runner
- Start date
bigshaun29
New member
Dude, do you have pictures of what you are talking about? You make it seem so easy, but pics would help. I have a 2005 4runner sitting in my driveway and I can't even find where the damn starter is. I keep reading threads with these long explanations with no visuals. Seems to be on of no help to me. I need to see what it is you are talking about. Thanks!
004runnerLtd
New member
This is for a 3rd gen 4runner (96-02). Your 4th gen is most likely different!
Would be probably best to search through the 4th gen section: LINK
Doug18
New member
I agree I took mine out the wheel well too and it really wasnt all that difficult you just needed to get the angle right. Glad you were able to get yours done
MasonT4R
New member
I've got no sway bar and it would not fit anywhere except out the wheel well... So... There is that...
I pulled the transmission dipstick (it pops/pulls right out), unbolted the hard brake lines from the frame (did not disconnect the lines!), and pulled it right out the wheel well (jacked up/wheel off obviously). Took all of 10 minutes.
I pulled the transmission dipstick (it pops/pulls right out), unbolted the hard brake lines from the frame (did not disconnect the lines!), and pulled it right out the wheel well (jacked up/wheel off obviously). Took all of 10 minutes.
ChildrenOfBodom
Moderator
I turned 19 on the day this thread was made.
KHoffRunner
Member
It can never be as hard to remove as they are on the 3.0. Had to remove my buddies off his '92 pick up and it was a total b****.
3rd gen king
New member
So do all four runners have starters? I recently bought an "Eco-boost" hybrid 97 four runner, should I worry?
LOL JK,
Alright here's the real stuff, my runner takes like 4-5 cranks to get her going, should i do my starter contacts to rid this issue??
and I ****ing HATE when people write/type "four runner" OR "for runner" I mean come on! It's got a number in front!!!!!!
LOL JK,
Alright here's the real stuff, my runner takes like 4-5 cranks to get her going, should i do my starter contacts to rid this issue??
and I ****ing HATE when people write/type "four runner" OR "for runner" I mean come on! It's got a number in front!!!!!!
TheDurk
Elite Member
Long crank is not a starter contacts issue. Bad contacts keep it from cranking at all. Yours is more likely fuel issue, filter, pump, regulator, etc. Gerdo is the expert, I think.
KHoffRunner
Member
cj80cruiser
Senior Member
Mine takes a several cranks too, but she always turns over
Like TheDurk said, it's probably the fuel pump. I've changed my starter contacts over a year ago and within a few months had the long start problem....more than likely the fuel pump.
BrianSD_42
New member
LoL. Pretty funny that despite your first post people went on to fill this thread with long detailed (and possibly wrong) "do it yourself" advice, exactly the kind that you are ranting about.
:rockthrow:
etc.
Member
I will concur this information. I will only add that you will need to remove a PS line and possibly the loosen or remove the upper half of the trans dip stick.
Much much much easier than any other procedure that I have tried.
thanks, I'll be giving this a try right now, it definitely seems much easier than snaking out the starter at various angles...
TheDurk
Elite Member
Well, I removed the bellhousing/tranny/tc and swaybar brackets, and then it was a breeze to take out going to the rear. (Of course, what I really had to do was my clutch. I only had a mm or two left on the contact so it was a good time to do it.)
If you are over 120k and have the trans out for any reason, I recommend doing this at the same time.
If you are over 120k and have the trans out for any reason, I recommend doing this at the same time.
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Let me knows if it works
That definitely worked! It was very easy to simply unbolt both front sway bar brackets and drop the starter out that way (but make a note of how it came out!).
I had initially planned to just swap the starter contacts without fully removing the starter itself (based on THIS THREAD), but once I unbolted the three (3) 7mm bolts and removed the cap, I realized my starter was full of debris, so I decided to just take it out completely and clean it on the bench, which was fortuitous because I would never have been able to remove the contacts from the starter under the 4Runner because they were just so tight...
By the time I cleaned the inside of the housing and replaced the worn plunger & both contacts and bolted on the cover, I tried to put the starter back in the way I had taken it out, i.e. past the front sway bar, but I just could not remember how I had oriented it for removal... so I ended up getting the started back in place via the passenger wheel well; I had already previously unbolted the two (2) 12mm bolts which keep the brake line in place on both the outside and inside of the frame (based on THIS THREAD), and it was very easy to maneuver the starter back in place that way.
Now my starter starts right up again, and so I hope my intermittent starter issues (clicking, and one time recently, the starter still attempted to start both when the engine was already running, as well as when I tried to shut off the engine and removed the key from the ignition! *) are a thing of the past...
* according to ExPo - Denso starter contact replacement, the starter contacts can get pitted and worn down to the point such that when the starter engages, the plunger can stick between the channels dug out of the contacts, keeping the starter engaged, even if you remove the key from the ignition - there is full battery amperage going through the motor, and so if this happens, then you run a great risk of your vehicle catching fire! BTW, this particular thread was a good reference for all the proper torque specs (stud nuts and cover bolts), as well as the piece of steel which Dave machined to apply force to both the starter contacts while properly torquing down the 14mm stud nuts on the outside of the housing.
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Having done numerous starters on all types of Hondas, I thought this would be straight forward with two bolts, remove cable/wire and pull out. But NO! This was such a PITA. Took me roughly 45 min. to get the starter off of the block. It took me 3 hours to get it out of the damn engine bay! OMFG!
I tried through the wheel well but the brake lines were in the way even though the bracket was removed. Finally got it through the bottom by dropping the swaybar, removing the transmission dipstick holder bolt AND undoing a power steering hardline. Haven't put it back in but hopefully things will go much smoother. Wow and I thought these things were easy as Civics to work on.
I tried through the wheel well but the brake lines were in the way even though the bracket was removed. Finally got it through the bottom by dropping the swaybar, removing the transmission dipstick holder bolt AND undoing a power steering hardline. Haven't put it back in but hopefully things will go much smoother. Wow and I thought these things were easy as Civics to work on.
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