If you ever plan on removing your starter, read this first.
- Thread starter LINY4Runner
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ferrellrooster
New member
I have a 96 4x4 that this wont work as I took everything removable off the rag. I was at the point of a saws all and a cutting torch I kid you not. I cussed Mr. Toyota for hours. It is the most stupid thing I have ever seen as far as a starter goes. BUT........Taking the break line brackets off and the half dip stick works. Its just the process of twists and flips you have to do with one arm under the truck and one in the fender well with a tire in your face while your licking the control arm. Just remember the butt end comes out first as you are twisting it out of the hole lift strait up and it comes out. Took me 2 minutes once I got the info from a Toyota Tech bud.
ON MINE...Biggest problem is the wires going to the starter have no play what so ever so you cant put them on first like most vehicles that have some slack. You have to mount the dang starter first then put the wires on and you need 2 more joints in a forearm to get in there. Then the plugged wire is a T total beach with that seal inside the female end of the starter that it took me three hours of cussing using my finger tips on 2 fingers to get it to go. Not even enough room to use a hammer or I would have, a 4lb'er at that.
And this doesnt have anything to do with it but as I was under the vehicle we had a nice 3 inch rain as I was in the driveway and not in the garage!!! So I was doing this as I was exposed to Chinese water torture to the left retina and when I would turn my head, then a stream of water (of oil and grease) strait into the ear!!! and thats not to mention the mud puddle I was laying in!! Oh yea.....great experience. Just thought I would share.
ON MINE...Biggest problem is the wires going to the starter have no play what so ever so you cant put them on first like most vehicles that have some slack. You have to mount the dang starter first then put the wires on and you need 2 more joints in a forearm to get in there. Then the plugged wire is a T total beach with that seal inside the female end of the starter that it took me three hours of cussing using my finger tips on 2 fingers to get it to go. Not even enough room to use a hammer or I would have, a 4lb'er at that.
And this doesnt have anything to do with it but as I was under the vehicle we had a nice 3 inch rain as I was in the driveway and not in the garage!!! So I was doing this as I was exposed to Chinese water torture to the left retina and when I would turn my head, then a stream of water (of oil and grease) strait into the ear!!! and thats not to mention the mud puddle I was laying in!! Oh yea.....great experience. Just thought I would share.
diverscale
Member
So, why some people in here, including the OP, states that it only takes the swaybar removal to uninstall the starter, then others that states that it takes the removal of power steering lines and dipstick?
Are 3rd gen different in this area between the years?
Are 3rd gen different in this area between the years?
mtbtim
Elite Member
I have heard the 2 wheel drive versions are easier to remove the starter because you get it out easily from the bottom. Going through the wheel well isn't that hard really. Once I knew the orientation the starter needed to be in to come out, it was pretty easy. It also took me some trial and error to figure out the best way to get a socket onto the starter bolts. It's tight in there so I found several extensions with a swivel was the answer. The most time consuming part of all was researching on-line for the starter contacts. I tried forever to find a affordable kit for my starter but all the kits I found didn't list my starter as one it would work for.
If you watch my video, you'll have no problem doing this repair. It's a long video, but you can always fast forward if you get tired of listening to me blab away.
so you found starter contacts but not for your model year...?
mtbtim
Elite Member
I was forced to buy them from the dealer. I used the Denso Part number on the side of my starter for my search and every affordable kit I found on Amazon, Ebay, etc didn't list my starter part number as the one of the ones that it would work for. It was frustrating because I found kits for like $15 that had the plunger and contacts. I ended up spending $69 for the parts from Toyota but the contact kits from Toyota are more extensive and included all the other associated hardware that goes with the copper contacts. Maybe this is why they are more pricey, but then again, the dealer is usually the most expensive option.
Here's my part numbers related to my 2000 SR5 3.4L 4x4:
My Starter is Toyota Part #28100-62030
Denso Part Number for my Starter #228000-4082 (1.8kw)
Part numbers for the contacts #28226-54340 & #28226-72010
Part number for the Plunger/Magnet #28235-54380
Starter to remove this weekend..
Hi All,
I am going to tackle the solenoid rebuild this weekend on my son's 99 SR5 2wd automatic. From researching removal of the starter on this forum and elsewhere it sounds like I should be able to drop his out the bottom of the engine bay. Can anyone confirm this - I'd rather not jack the truck up and remove the wheel if i don't have to (assuming I don't have to do this anyway to remove the bolts holding it in place).
Also - I'm planning on buying the attached kit from Amazon (Victory Lap ND34SOL) - can anyone confirm this is the right one?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0031HMS7C/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER
Thanks
S
Hi All,
I am going to tackle the solenoid rebuild this weekend on my son's 99 SR5 2wd automatic. From researching removal of the starter on this forum and elsewhere it sounds like I should be able to drop his out the bottom of the engine bay. Can anyone confirm this - I'd rather not jack the truck up and remove the wheel if i don't have to (assuming I don't have to do this anyway to remove the bolts holding it in place).
Also - I'm planning on buying the attached kit from Amazon (Victory Lap ND34SOL) - can anyone confirm this is the right one?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0031HMS7C/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER
Thanks
S
xcmountain80
New member
Yes it drops through the bottom.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
mtbtim
Elite Member
You're better off getting the part numbers off the side of the starter first and searching for the right plunger and contacts. You can actually read the label because it faces the passenger side wheel well. Just jack up that front right side, remove the wheel, get in there with a rag and some cleaner and wipe down the side of the starter facing the wheel well. Once you get the Toyota and Denso part numbers off the side, you can accurately find the right parts.
There is a VERY good chance that one on Amazon you're thinking about purchasing is wrong for your starter.
TheDurk
Elite Member
I CAN tell you that kit worked perfectly on the 1.4kW starter found on my 5-speed '99 4Runner. See my review on there dated Sept 29, 2013.
I don't know if it works on the larger starter you probably have on your auto trans. It would appear that others have used it on the 1.8kW according to other reviews.
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mtbtim
Elite Member
It would be nice if there was an easier way to be sure which kits work for the 1.4kw and 1.8kw starters on our rigs. I found so many kits online but not one listed my Denso part number as one it would work for. I have a feeling there's probably lots of different kits that will work but there's no way to know until you get the parts and check. From the pics on the seller's sites, it's easy to see if the contacts look right but there's no way to know if the plunger is the right length because the sellers don't give measurements. I would have loved to find an affordable kit but I ended up going to the dealer for my 1.8kw starter on my 2000 SR5 4x4.
Edit: This seller does advertise the dimensions of the plunger. That's super helpful. [MENTION=143838]Spur4Life[/MENTION], if you can wait until tomorrow, I'm pretty sure I saved my old parts from my solenoid repair and I can take some measurements from my old plunger and let you know if they match the kit you're thinking of buying. Since you have an automatic, you'll have the 1.8kw starter, and I have an automatic as well. I'm stuck at the Fire Station until tomorrow morning.
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mtbtim
Elite Member
After [MENTION=10169]TheDurk[/MENTION] said the Amazon kit worked great for his 1.4kw starter, I took some measurements of the plunger from my 1.8kw starter, which yours should be the same one as mine since you have an automatic as well.
The Amazon site said the diameter of the plunger disk is 34.8mm and the overall length is 96.7mm. Mine measured 36.8mm in diameter and 96.8mm long. So, the length is spot on and the diameter for the one they're selling is 2mm less. The plunger on my starter hits the contacts 4-5mm in from the edge so I don't think the 2mm less in diameter would be of any concern. If you took a mm off from each side, the plunger would still be hitting the contacts 3-4mm from the edge. So, I really think this kit would work for the 1.4kw and 1.8kw starters.
[MENTION=143838]Spur4Life[/MENTION], if you end up using this kit, could you please report back if it worked out for you. Having an affordable kit we know for sure is good for both kilowatt starters would definitely help others to save some money when it comes time for them to repair their starter.
Here's a couple pics of the measurements I took:
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OK.. Job took about 1.5 hours with most of that time figuring out how to get the two bolts that attach the starter to the engine off (multiple pieces on my socket wrench did the trick). The original contacts and plunger base were all looking pretty worn so hopefully this solves the issue.
I can also confirm that the once the two bolts are off the starter will drop right out of the bottom of the V6 2wd SR5 Automatic. I didn't even have to take off the wheel.
The kit from amazon (Victory Lap ND-34SOL) worked perfect on my starter (part number 28100-62050-84. Which I believe is a 1.4kw - interesting as I was expecting to find a 1.8kw installed). The kit came with a list of vehicle fitments inside which I have included below along with a few other pics.
Thanks for the information last week. Definitely helped..
S
I can also confirm that the once the two bolts are off the starter will drop right out of the bottom of the V6 2wd SR5 Automatic. I didn't even have to take off the wheel.
The kit from amazon (Victory Lap ND-34SOL) worked perfect on my starter (part number 28100-62050-84. Which I believe is a 1.4kw - interesting as I was expecting to find a 1.8kw installed). The kit came with a list of vehicle fitments inside which I have included below along with a few other pics.
Thanks for the information last week. Definitely helped..
S
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mtbtim
Elite Member
Thanks for reporting back that the contacts worked. How did you determine your starter was a 1.4kw? It was my understanding the automatic versions of our truck had the 1.8kw starter. The part number you gave is the Toyota part number. What was the Denso part number?
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mtbtim
Elite Member
I think the issue is this is a "Remanufactured" Starter and not the original that came with the rig. It's my guess, the previous owner of your rig had it replaced and with the wrong kilowatt starter. I did see a reference to a similar part #28100-62050 (no 84 at the end) and it listed that starter for 3rd Gen years with a "Manual" transmission.
I just talked with a parts guys at my local Toyota Dealership. He confirmed the part number on your starter is a 1.4kw, but he said a 99 Automatic should have come with either a 1.8kw or a 2.0kw. He said he can give a definitive answer though with the VIN number. I don't know if you're want to, but it you call your local Toyota dealership parts department and supply them with the VIN, they can tell you for sure which kilowatt starter should have come with your rig.
I was hoping to be able to say the starter contact and plunger kit you bought is also good for the 1.8kw starters but we'll now need someone else to be the guinea pig.
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