BrianSD_42
New member
That makes sense. I ran my 14G speaker wire back in 2007 so it has been awhile.
Infinity Reference Speakers
- Thread starter 1985taylor1925
- Start date
That makes sense. I ran my 14G speaker wire back in 2007 so it has been awhile.
TheDurk
Elite Member
My rig came with components in the front and no separate amp. The cassette-only Alpine HU ( that did not survive the first afternoon) had only four outputs. I'm pretty sure the front components are just connected in parallel, with no external crossover and hi-pass and lo-pass filters built into the tweeter and mid-range, respectively. This wire diagram confirms this:
http://tacoma.site40.net/4Runner_96-02_Repair&Wiring/techinfo.toyota.com/ileaf/ewdtmc2/ewdtmpdf/ewdsourc/2002/024runne/systemci/052rap.pdf
If I believe the diagram, the separate amp was the same way but I don't own one so I won't speak to that.
BrianSD_42
New member
That makes sense, I guess there are only 4 wire pairs coming out of the factory head unit. It has been a long time since I ran new wires. Sorry for the confusion.
TheDurk
Elite Member
No problem. In fact, I can only find one model of front mid-range speaker for my year and it is listed for all trims and all 3rd gen years. I bet that speaker was rated for all frequencies and they just tacked on a tweeter in parallel with a hi-pass filter for the 6-speaker system.
In any case, I agree the way to go is all new speaker wiring and the supplied cross-over when installing new components. Even without a separate amp, a decent HU will push the limits of those factory wires. Aftermarket components will require more power than the factory junk and the factory speaker wires are really small. I would not hesitate to install the cross-over in the door--as stated above, they are not at all fragile (certainly less so than the speakers themselves) and are well-sealed.
Last edited:
1985taylor1925
Senior Member
Hey Brian when you installed the new speaker did you seal them with a silicone to the plastic housing? My stock speakers were sealed to the plastic, which made it a pain to get them off. Im guessing that just improves the quality of sound coming from the speakers?
BrianSD_42
New member
I think I just used that dynamat (fake version) to close the gaps. While trying to 99% seal it up may improve something, I'm kind of doubtful because this design is basically an open air speaker with the door acting as a box. It will never be fully sealed so I think if you just try to close any major gaps with weather stripping or other rubber you will be fine.
1985taylor1925
Senior Member
Alright,
Am I missing something here?? I ordered the Infinity Reference 6.5" system on Amazon from an exact link that I found here on the forum. So take a look at this . . .
The holes do not line up at all. Theyre off by half a cm. The only way to get them to line up is to bend the plastic like crazy. In fact I couldnt bend it that much by hand. I had to squeeze end to end with a clamp just to get two opposing screws in. And then the other two were gonna be next to impossible to get on, so I didnt even try. I dont want to damage the plastic part or the speakers.
Did you have this issue?
Attachments
BrianSD_42
New member
Just drill new holes in the plastic/door. We all do. Start small.
1985taylor1925
Senior Member
I figured out another way to mount them. I just used washers with the screws to clamp the other three spots. Anyways, I got the passenger side installed and then turned it on to compare them to stock by centering from driver to passenger side. Im not sure whats going on, because the stock speakers sound much better. The new tweeter was louder than the old one, but the stock woofer produced much more sound and hits a lot harder. The bass from the stock speaker actually shakes the door panels. The new one was working, but didnt produce near the power. Whats going on here? Everything was hooked up right. I used the crossover unit. I bought 14 g speaker wire but havent installed it yet. But either way with identical wiring on both sides the stock speakers sounded much much better.
zooroadbaja
New member
I believe the wire makes a difference in performance, the whole reason in changing the wire. Just like when you supercharge your motor you upgrade to 91.
BrianSD_42
New member
Its simple , the stock speakers are a very low wattage rating and the Reference require at least 40W RMS to really hummm. You aftermarket head unit is probably doing 22W at best.
TheDurk
Elite Member
It sounds like he is playing both at the same signal power. Cheapo stock speakers will be more efficient (db level of sound output per watt of signal input) so they will sound more 'powerful' playing side-by-side. It's just that they are louder when driven by the same electric signal. Jigger the balance so the sound volume of both is the same and then compare the quality of the sound. But you may well need an external amp with the Infinty's depending on your desired listening level.
1985taylor1925
Senior Member
Ill check the specs on the HU today. Though Im sure youre correct Brian, as Im running a cheapo Sony Xplod HU. Ive never done anything with stereos/speakers so Im learning this stuff as I go. Ill do some research today to get a better understanding of the basics. I tend to rush into these things before doing sufficient research.
At this point I think I will just get a better HU and an external amp as it's the right way to do it. Is there anything specific I should be looking for in an amp?
BrianSD_42
New member
Yeah Sony Xplode is like the cheap of the cheapo class. I had one as my first head unit.
Luckily though it probably produces pretty decent sound when paired with amp.
You best solution is probably to add the Alpine Universal power pack ($149) in line with your speakers. It would be a great match for your Sony + Reference Speakers.
I will post a link when I get home.
Luckily though it probably produces pretty decent sound when paired with amp.
You best solution is probably to add the Alpine Universal power pack ($149) in line with your speakers. It would be a great match for your Sony + Reference Speakers.
I will post a link when I get home.
1985taylor1925
Senior Member
And here we go with more questions . . .
Have a look at these two pictures of wires and HU
So picture (a) is the set of wires going into my HU, and picture (b) is the back of the HU. Whether or not these have been modified by previous owner I have no idea. You guys would know better than me. So obviously the black connector goes into the black port in the HU. So my question is, how would I rewire that? Do I have to track down one of those connectors and wire the 14 g stuff I bought into it?
And then this one . . .
So (A) is where my wiring harness plugs in, and I have a cord for (E) as well. These are the only ports being used in the back of the HU. And I only knew to use them because the same ports were being used on the old HU which I replaced. I just copied what I saw.
- In what case would I use the speaker ports at (D)?
- What are (B) and (C) used for?
I hate that which I do not understand
Have a look at these two pictures of wires and HU
So picture (a) is the set of wires going into my HU, and picture (b) is the back of the HU. Whether or not these have been modified by previous owner I have no idea. You guys would know better than me. So obviously the black connector goes into the black port in the HU. So my question is, how would I rewire that? Do I have to track down one of those connectors and wire the 14 g stuff I bought into it?
And then this one . . .
So (A) is where my wiring harness plugs in, and I have a cord for (E) as well. These are the only ports being used in the back of the HU. And I only knew to use them because the same ports were being used on the old HU which I replaced. I just copied what I saw.
- In what case would I use the speaker ports at (D)?
- What are (B) and (C) used for?
I hate that which I do not understand
Attachments
BrianSD_42
New member
I have to ask ... Have you done a Google search for the model number of your stereo and the word manual?
The Sony manual is probably online and has pictures for all those ports.
The Sony manual is probably online and has pictures for all those ports.
BrianSD_42
New member
Buy this --> Alpine KTP-445U 4-channel Power Pack Amplifier:Amazon:Car Electronics
It will work fine with your Sony head unit.
..
It will work fine with your Sony head unit.
..
BrianSD_42
New member
Those are the pre-outs. You have Aux-In on the left and front and rear pre-outs for connecting to an external amplifier. The speakers would then connect to that amp instead of the standard wiring harness.
So you buy the Alpine Universal Power Pack from the link above And connect a RCA cable from the back of the head unit to the power pack (amplifier) then the speakers connect to the power pack instead of your wiring harness.
1985taylor1925
Senior Member
Actually I just found the manual :behindsofa: I may have forgotten that I had it. hehehe
Ya I think I will go with that or one similar.
So I think Ive got it all now. Ill still be using the black harness as it contains the wires that power the HU, but the speaker wires running from it will just be empty. Amp plugs into HU pre-outs and then I run my 14 g wire from amp to the Infinity crossovers and rear speakers
Thanks for your help man.
BrianSD_42
New member
You're on the right track especially if you run new 14G (or 16G really would work) speaker wire from the Alpine power pack to each speaker.
Running the wires are pretty easy and those panels come off with little trouble.
I also really really suggest you run NEW power and ground from the car battery to your SONY & the Alpine power pack. A simple 12G black & red wire from AutoZone will work perfectly for this. Just run 1 (+) and 1 (-) will be fine, you can split them near the deck. Be sure to put a fuse with 1 ft of the battery. Doing this will help to prevent speaker whine (in my opinion) :fish2:
Good luck with the project.
Running the wires are pretty easy and those panels come off with little trouble.
I also really really suggest you run NEW power and ground from the car battery to your SONY & the Alpine power pack. A simple 12G black & red wire from AutoZone will work perfectly for this. Just run 1 (+) and 1 (-) will be fine, you can split them near the deck. Be sure to put a fuse with 1 ft of the battery. Doing this will help to prevent speaker whine (in my opinion) :fish2:
Good luck with the project.
