Inner Tie Rod Removal and Installation

[Mgyver1]

No problem, I couldn't find a part number for the jam nuts either. I'm sure it's out there though.

90170-20003

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...nner-tie-rods-ball-joints-wheel-bearings.html

They're $1.33 ea, so it's not an expensive purchase, good piece of mind, and if you have one on hand then you won't have to scramble for one if you end up needing it. [MENTION=96608]MandAtaco[/MENTION] had to replace his on his rig and it wasn't from a rust area. I replaced mine when I did my LBJs & tie rods just for piece of mind.

 

[Algiers]

90170-20003

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...nner-tie-rods-ball-joints-wheel-bearings.html

They're $1.33 ea, so it's not an expensive purchase, good piece of mind, and if you have one on hand then you won't have to scramble for one if you end up needing it. [MENTION=96608]MandAtaco[/MENTION] had to replace his on his rig and it wasn't from a rust area. I replaced mine when I did my LBJs & tie rods just for piece of mind.

Thanks for that.

Here's another question. I couldn't seem to find a tie rod puller that would fit. At the least the 3 auto zone had as loaners wouldn't work. Would it be OK to use a pickle fork to separate the outers from the LBJ or would that be bad for joint on the lower ball joint.. I don't want to use a hammer like I did when I first replaced the JBJ's.

 

[gamefreakgc]

Thanks for that.

Here's another question. I couldn't seem to find a tie rod puller that would fit. At the least the 3 auto zone had as loaners wouldn't work. Would it be OK to use a pickle fork to separate the outers from the LBJ or would that be bad for joint on the lower ball joint.. I don't want to use a hammer like I did when I first replaced the JBJ's.

Hammer/pickle fork is your best bet if the outers are being replaced. You won't hurt the lower ball joint, it's supposed to handle shock, stress and heavy weights just fine. I found an 3 lb engineer's hammer to work better than the pickle fork. Whack the threaded stud on top a couple times. Pops right out more often than not. If you are not keeping the outers then it doesn't matter how you hit it, just go to town.

The pickle fork method WILL ruin any boot it comes in contact with, so keep that in mind. That's why so many people recommend just using a hammer.

 

[nitrostang]

This is an excellent write up and thread. I just lost a lower LBJ two weeks ago while hunting. Fortunately I was only doing 20mph on a dirt road so no major damage. Have a couple questions for the much wiser then me: not trying to hack the thread but they have to do with the OTR being replaced:
1) I had already ordered the LBJ from camelback and was just going to replace those but notice I separated my inner( pass ) side half shaft boot and got dirt in with the grease. So I figured I would have to replace those also.
2) I have 280,000 on my 4runner, should I just go ahead and also replace UBJ, OTR and ITR while I'm at it. I know the answer just need the support before I go and fork down all that money for OEM parts.
3) Does it matter OEM or aftermarket for the half shafts

Cheers for the great write up and all the knowledge this forum produces.

 

[redlo]

LBJ Hardware ?

Hello,

New to the forum but been perusing for a while. I have a question with regards to Autozones Duralast LBJ.

- Duralast Part #FA2205

For some odd reason the hardware that threads in closest to the rotor seems to bottom out. When I try to torque to 59ft/lbs it starts to strip the threads. I measured hardware to my OEM that came off and hardware is same length. Has anyone used this LBJ with same issue?

Thanks,

 

[Mgyver1]

Hello,

New to the forum but been perusing for a while. I have a question with regards to Autozones Duralast LBJ.

- Duralast Part #FA2205

For some odd reason the hardware that threads in closest to the rotor seems to bottom out. When I try to torque to 59ft/lbs it starts to strip the threads. I measured hardware to my OEM that came off and hardware is same length. Has anyone used this LBJ with same issue?

Thanks,

I think the issue people were having with Duralast LBJs is that they would fail after about 20k miles. I think you should return them and get some genuine Toyota LBJs so you don't roll your truck on the freeway.
[MENTION=50754]nitrostang[/MENTION], with close to 300k I think they've had a good run and it's now the time to replace it all. I'm kind of an OEM purist (but the LBJs are a mandatory OEM only part) so I say get it all OEM and don't forget new jamb nuts and the bolts for the LBJs for that oh-so-fresh feeling. As far as the CVs, just add on a boot kit to your above order for the tie rods and keep your superior OEM CVs instead of exchanging them.

 

[97t4r81]

I like to use my pitman arm puller for tie rods, if a few good smacks doesn't work. Oem on lbj/otr, the other stuff can be the best affordable Japanese bits you can source. I did low range offroad itres, 555, made in Japan,$30each. Oem lbjs & otres. Amayama.com is for real, but don't have everything. ALWAYS use new Toyota oem lbj bolts x8 with blue loctite.

 

[Algiers]

I have all my parts and tools finally for this job but had a quick question for the forum. I noticed quite a bit of grease around the boot near the steering rack. Most of the pics I see of others look fairly clean and dry. Is this normal or is there some other seal or something simple in the rack I should be fixing while I'm in there.

 

[infamousRNR]

I have all my parts and tools finally for this job but had a quick question for the forum. I noticed quite a bit of grease around the boot near the steering rack. Most of the pics I see of others look fairly clean and dry. Is this normal or is there some other seal or something simple in the rack I should be fixing while I'm in there.

i SECOND this question... my rack is "wet" with what looks to be oil

 

[StreetCreeper]

I have all my parts and tools finally for this job but had a quick question for the forum. I noticed quite a bit of grease around the boot near the steering rack. Most of the pics I see of others look fairly clean and dry. Is this normal or is there some other seal or something simple in the rack I should be fixing while I'm in there.

i SECOND this question... my rack is "wet" with what looks to be oil

My rack is oily too. It's just leaky valve covers and probably rear seal for me. The rack are in the perfect spot to collect all the oil and other fluids that drip off the engine.

 

[infamousRNR]

My rack is oily too. It's just leaky valve covers and probably rear seal for me. The rack are in the perfect spot to collect all the oil and other fluids that drip off the engine.

My valve seals are both leaking pretty bad...

When you say "real seal" are you still referring to the valve covers?

 

[Unner]

He said "rear seal" as in the rear engine main seal. Just like the front crank seal but on the back.

 

[StreetCreeper]

My valve seals are both leaking pretty bad...

When you say "real seal" are you still referring to the valve covers?

He said "rear seal" as in the rear engine main seal. Just like the front crank seal but on the back.

Yep — what Unner said.

 

[Algiers]

I did my inners and outers today and had a decent amount of oil in the boot. The passenger side (pictured below was the worst)and it was pretty watery. The boot looked solid and I didn't see any holes or damage to it. I replaced it anyway. Would this be a steering rack issue and is this something that will ruin the new inners I just put on?

 

[atalarico]

I like to use my pitman arm puller for tie rods, if a few good smacks doesn't work. Oem on lbj/otr, the other stuff can be the best affordable Japanese bits you can source. I did low range offroad itres, 555, made in Japan,$30each. Oem lbjs & otres. Amayama.com is for real, but don't have everything. ALWAYS use new Toyota oem lbj bolts x8 with blue loctite.

Thanks for the tip on Amayama! OEM ITREs are almost half the price ($60) as Camelback ($120)! I know OEM isn't totally necessary for the ITREs, but man...for that price?

Is there any catch with getting parts from here? I submitted an inquiry, so who knows, but I can't imagine shipping from the UAE is cheap either.

FWIW on the OEM vs Non-OEM for these parts; I got LBJs, ITRE, and OTREs from Napa about 32k miles ago. The LBJ's were Sankei/555 and were trashed. The driver's OTRE (Napa Chassis Part NCP or Sankei I think) has a torn boot, but the ITRE (NCP or better) actually still holds the OTRE very well, so go figure. The passenger's OTRE is in good shape (no torn boot), but the ITRE drops the OTRE pretty quickly, so...yeah.

I'm thinking of going all OEM this time for these Amayama prices. If it turns out to be expensive to ship or something, I'll just be going with OEM OTREs (already replaced the LBJs with OEM from Camelback) and Napa ITREs. I'm getting the impression that any exposed rubber boot on a lifted vehicle that isn't an OEM part will get trashed.

 

[OBTDean]

Excellent write up, headed to parts store now.:rockon:

 

[thor999]

Yes, excellent write up! Will be doing this myself soon, but I'm wondering: I replaced LBJ's (OEM, and OEM bolts as well) 18k miles and 5 years ago, do you guys recommend keeping them or replacing?

 

[SpidermanGeek]

Unless the boots are ripped/leaking or you abused them a lot off-road.. I wouldn't worry about replacing OEM lbjs with only 18k on them.

 

[MarkamisPrime]

Idk if anyone mentioned this
Just did a quick skim of all 7 pages [emoji23]
But when your separating your inner tie rod from the outer
Do your alignment guy a favor and count the turns coming off and match them going back on
That way your alignment is pretty damn close to how it was when you disassembled
And that way your not at risk of wearing tires weird on your way to the shop depending on how far it is away from you or if you like most people and decide to drive around for a week or months till you get a chance to get the alignment done [emoji29]
I have seen this happen multiple times it's terrible

 

[4Runnin2000]

Idk if anyone mentioned this
Just did a quick skim of all 7 pages [emoji23]
But when your separating your inner tie rod from the outer
Do your alignment guy a favor and count the turns coming off and match them going back on
That way your alignment is pretty damn close to how it was when you disassembled
And that way your not at risk of wearing tires weird on your way to the shop depending on how far it is away from you or if you like most people and decide to drive around for a week or months till you get a chance to get the alignment done [emoji29]
I have seen this happen multiple times it's terrible

If I read this correctly, that is why the OP said to mark the threads with white paint before you loosen the outer tie rod from the inner. So you can tighten it back up to the white mark on outer tie rod. No need to count threads.