J-money build thread
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J-money$$$
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Thanks you all. Yep these are big 35's
And calculus makes me wish for algebra days. Hey at least my class stopped before differential equations, sequences and series and all that garbage.
Started cutting the rear bumper, went and tested the fit and chunked on of my new tires on an edge i didnt grind down... UGGGHHHHH SOOOOO MAD!
And calculus makes me wish for algebra days. Hey at least my class stopped before differential equations, sequences and series and all that garbage.
Started cutting the rear bumper, went and tested the fit and chunked on of my new tires on an edge i didnt grind down... UGGGHHHHH SOOOOO MAD!
J-money$$$
New member
Few pics from the weekend. I went to cougar buttes for a party, It was a wild 21st b day 
. I went out there without any plans of wheeling, but i couldnt resist at least testing the tires/ gears on some rocks. Anyways here are a few pics from my 30 minutes of wheeling
. I went out there without any plans of wheeling, but i couldnt resist at least testing the tires/ gears on some rocks. Anyways here are a few pics from my 30 minutes of wheeling
J-money$$$
New member
Here are a couple pics of how i had to clearance the front of the truck for the 315's
This shows the fire wall after i used a BFH and beat it back about an inch, Not too bad IMO. Tubbing may have to happen, Smashing it first was a good option IMO. The tubbing would have to go up quite a ways and i was tired of working in it
UCA trimming, I still think I have a little uca rubbing even with the 1/4" wheel spacers. I cut a piece off and welded plate in to cover the hole. This was not my favorite idea, but these really dont see the weight of the truck and i welded thicker material than what i cut out. If i have an issue its okay because i have a few spares
1/4" wheel spacers, and tacoma rear wheel studs installed. These studs are abou 1/4" longer than the fronts and i thought it would be enough to get some good thread contact with the spacers, however i was not happy with the thread contact. I would say it was only about 3 threads... Not safe. My wheels have a super thick mounting surface and the spacers made it worse.
So I found these Gorilla spline drive ET style lug nuts that match my current ones. My old ones are on the left and the new ET style on the right. I only got enough for the front since the rears work fine with the regular style ones.
They fit tight in the wheel but are perfect. I now have about 8 Threads of contact. Much better
Im about to go wheeling tonight (hopefully) on a local rock garden by my house. Ill take my new camera and get some pics
This shows the fire wall after i used a BFH and beat it back about an inch, Not too bad IMO. Tubbing may have to happen, Smashing it first was a good option IMO. The tubbing would have to go up quite a ways and i was tired of working in it
UCA trimming, I still think I have a little uca rubbing even with the 1/4" wheel spacers. I cut a piece off and welded plate in to cover the hole. This was not my favorite idea, but these really dont see the weight of the truck and i welded thicker material than what i cut out. If i have an issue its okay because i have a few spares
1/4" wheel spacers, and tacoma rear wheel studs installed. These studs are abou 1/4" longer than the fronts and i thought it would be enough to get some good thread contact with the spacers, however i was not happy with the thread contact. I would say it was only about 3 threads... Not safe. My wheels have a super thick mounting surface and the spacers made it worse.
So I found these Gorilla spline drive ET style lug nuts that match my current ones. My old ones are on the left and the new ET style on the right. I only got enough for the front since the rears work fine with the regular style ones.
They fit tight in the wheel but are perfect. I now have about 8 Threads of contact. Much better
Im about to go wheeling tonight (hopefully) on a local rock garden by my house. Ill take my new camera and get some pics
J-money$$$
New member
went and did a little night wheeling last night in hesperia. Had a good time, although we didnt finish the trail. Its a long canyon, and has about 2 maybe 3 miles of a consistent rock gardens. Everything is working great
Heading into the canyon
Loving the 35's
This is a normal section on this trail. Its weird because its just a bunch of boulders. There are a couple really good ledges up further, but we didnt make it
Whats a night without justin getting stuck
...
2009 beater....
Heading into the canyon
Loving the 35's
This is a normal section on this trail. Its weird because its just a bunch of boulders. There are a couple really good ledges up further, but we didnt make it
Whats a night without justin getting stuck
...
2009 beater....
J-money$$$
New member
2 Pics from Claw hammer last weekend. Just cuz
I would think the rpms would be too high on the freeway with that combination. :shrug:
J-money$$$
New member
Nope. I did the gears and put the 35s on it at the same time. I didnt even move it with the 5.29s and 33s its sat on jack stands until I was done.
DONT PUT 5.29s with 33's! its will be ridiculous!!! Way to slow. If you DD it on 35's I think the 5.29s are still too low. Its good for a wheeler/beater but not for a truck on DD duty.
Exactly.
And here are some pics from yesterdays wheeling trip at Cougar Buttes. I rarely take pics but yesterday i was in the mood for it LOL
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Duhockey
Senior Member
Nice Pics!
My 4runner isnt a DD anymore... the numbers didnt look so bad with 33's and 5.29 for RPMS
Gear Ratio Calculator
If the RPMS are higher, why would it be slower? wouldnt it be faster? When I put bigger tires (33's) on the 4.10 it slowed down... so theoretically if you go to 4.88 or 5.29 you should get the lost power back right?
combatmedic
Banned
Awesome pics!! You've got some balls for rock crawlin at night lol. Props.
J-money$$$
New member
I mean it has plenty of power with 35s and 5.29s I can go up all the hills on the freeway in 5th. But its slow for the sake of the motor. Im at 2800 rpms in 5th on the freeway. Thats about 150 over the stock 4.10s and 31's... So at 65 with 5.29s and 33s you will be close to 3000 rpms or over that... SO its slow going down the highway.
Its so awesome on the trails though!!! i never stall anymore
Well i still do, but just not ass much
Duhockey
Senior Member
I mean it has plenty of power with 35s and 5.29s I can go up all the hills on the freeway in 5th. But its slow for the sake of the motor. Im at 2800 rpms in 5th on the freeway. Thats about 150 over the stock 4.10s and 31's... So at 65 with 5.29s and 33s you will be close to 3000 rpms or over that... SO its slow going down the highway.
Its so awesome on the trails though!!! i never stall anymore
YEAH! Im so Stoked to see how well it crawls! The crawl ratio seems awesome!
Im not concerned with the RPMs so much on the highway, Thanks for the info!
J-money$$$
New member
Hammer Down 3-10-2012, Such a good day
Yours truly
Justin
And a couple from deep creek. from last week
Such nice weather down here. You know you want to drive through that tunnel through the dam. Gotta watch it on the spillway. Its DEEP Its over your hood if you try and go in the middle
so much fun. Great little local spot. The tunnel is about 500 ft long. maybe 24" deep of water in the beginning then it gets shallow
Yours truly
Justin
And a couple from deep creek. from last week
Such nice weather down here. You know you want to drive through that tunnel through the dam. Gotta watch it on the spillway. Its DEEP Its over your hood if you try and go in the middle
so much fun. Great little local spot. The tunnel is about 500 ft long. maybe 24" deep of water in the beginning then it gets shallow
J-money$$$
New member
Went wheelin on my little local trail today with a few friends. Good times
J-money$$$
New member
Im working on getting good numbers on a rear 3 link. I pretty much have everything where i want it.
My stock link mounts are complete trash. I welded 3/16 to some and they still bend. I cant just keep adding plate. Plus I am really tired of getting hung up on those lower link rock hanger mounts. and I broke an upper link at KOH... The bushing sleeve I used on my upper link set way 1.75" .120 dom. And it ended up ripping apart. The bushings on my lowers are gone as well. And I dont want to put a dime more into this short arm system
Anyways. Im planning on cutting all the oem mounts off the frame and axle as soon as the spring quarter ends (10 weeks). Then do a three link. At this point I think I will keep the stock track bar location. And just build a new one. I dont want to move the gas tank so its 100% going to be a 3 link. I will used 3/8 brackets where possible. Im going with ruffstuff lower link hangers. axle link mounts. and an upper frame mount. 1" johnny joints on the lowers both sides. 7/8" heims on the upper. 2" .250 wall dom lowers somewhere between 27-31" long (im not set yet) Upper will be 1.5" .250 wall dom. about 26" long.
I put the stock link setup into a 4 link calc. and it gives you
0% anti squat
6-7º of roll oversteer. (this is way worse on droop. Gotta love short links i would guess around 10+)
22" Roll center
my new three link is going to be
60-90% antisquat - My upper link locations will have more than one location
3º of roll over steer. (Way better on droop due to link length)
22" roll center if I keep the stock track bar, I could get this a little higher. But I dont know if its worth it.
Plus a way more steady pinion angle. I will be leaving the shocks/springs right where they are. I dont have money to get into that. And when i do Ill run 12" cheap shocks and hopefully get quite a bit more droop
Other than that its back to wheeling. Got a little trip planned next week. Probably go give hammer down a shot at night
My stock link mounts are complete trash. I welded 3/16 to some and they still bend. I cant just keep adding plate. Plus I am really tired of getting hung up on those lower link rock hanger mounts. and I broke an upper link at KOH... The bushing sleeve I used on my upper link set way 1.75" .120 dom. And it ended up ripping apart. The bushings on my lowers are gone as well. And I dont want to put a dime more into this short arm system
Anyways. Im planning on cutting all the oem mounts off the frame and axle as soon as the spring quarter ends (10 weeks). Then do a three link. At this point I think I will keep the stock track bar location. And just build a new one. I dont want to move the gas tank so its 100% going to be a 3 link. I will used 3/8 brackets where possible. Im going with ruffstuff lower link hangers. axle link mounts. and an upper frame mount. 1" johnny joints on the lowers both sides. 7/8" heims on the upper. 2" .250 wall dom lowers somewhere between 27-31" long (im not set yet) Upper will be 1.5" .250 wall dom. about 26" long.
I put the stock link setup into a 4 link calc. and it gives you
0% anti squat
6-7º of roll oversteer. (this is way worse on droop. Gotta love short links i would guess around 10+)
22" Roll center
my new three link is going to be
60-90% antisquat - My upper link locations will have more than one location
3º of roll over steer. (Way better on droop due to link length)
22" roll center if I keep the stock track bar, I could get this a little higher. But I dont know if its worth it.
Plus a way more steady pinion angle. I will be leaving the shocks/springs right where they are. I dont have money to get into that. And when i do Ill run 12" cheap shocks and hopefully get quite a bit more droop
Other than that its back to wheeling. Got a little trip planned next week. Probably go give hammer down a shot at night
J-money$$$
New member
That 12 ga is junk! the stock track bar mount on the axle is beefy though. thats about it...
I was set on running 63" chevy leafs out back. The local yards have piles of them for $60 a pair and ruff stuff sells a complete swap kit for $120. I was thinking this was going to be my next thing. Leafs are easy, stable and proven. and the swap would be easy. I think they are a great option for any budget build. It will only take a day and you will be wheeling again. You may have to change the shocks out and run em on top of the axle but thats no biggie. So 63 leafs are about $200
plus new shocks
I did some math and its only a little more to go to a 3 link and It fits. Its going to run me around $300-$350. Esp if i salvage the 7/8 heims all ready on my links. plus I can dial in the ride. The only fitment issue will be re routing the exhaust. thats not a main worry. Ill cut it off then worry about it once its built. Links flex like crazy. You just have to spend some time thinking about it so you dont get crazy body roll and funky things goin on. I just really like the coil sprung rear
Im trying to get the roll center higher on my design, I would like it in the 30's or high 20's but its not going to happen with the stock track bar mounts. I think ill biuld it with the stock track bar location and if I end up with too much body roll ill change that.
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