Jangoforhire's Build and Pictures

[jangoforhire]

nice, wish I had a farm to take photos of my 4runner How did you get that different font for some of the photos in the right hand corner? was it done by the camera or some sort of app?

It's an app called CameraBag2 (on the mac App Store) and it's just a frame called "cut" that gives it the brown uneven border and those numbers. It's a great app for throwing some quick fixes on pictures.

 

[Mick1]

Jango,

Electrical looks great. I have been researching how to implement similar system and have a few questions.

1) Do you think there might be room to install 2 rows of switches rather than one long one on the driver dash? Maybe a row of 4 and 3? This photo edit has the layout of (2) equal size rows, but the lower row is too long. So I am hoping a row of (4) and a row of (3) might work.

I know the inset for the blank plug would be between the rows, but I think that could be addressed.

My goal would be seven switches. An "ACTIVATE PANEL" switch that controls all of the switches in the two rows, then FRONT BUMPER LIGHTS switch, FRONT ROOF LIGHTS switch, REAR ROOF LIGHTS switch. And in a second row, separate control of RIGHT SIDE ROOF, LEFT SIDE ROOF, and a ROCK LIGHTS switch.

2) I have a platform in the cargo area and will probably have drawers at some point, so don't want to have the switches in the rear cargo area. (This question may show my wiring idiocy, but it will be revealed at some point, so....) Would the Wiring diagram be the exact same if the rear switches were simply removed from the diagram or would any changes be desired or required?

3) Just my luck, the wired wagon guy has stopped selling the relay fuse blocks. So it is either a blue sea option, or I have found this alternate source, dirt bound offroad. It seems to be pretty much the same product as the wired wagon block. Aux Relay / Fuse Panel*|*DirtBound Offroad However, the information on the dirt bound site is, lacking..., so I am not sure if it is ready to go. Someone in this thread indicates it comes with fuses and relays. Neater way of organising 12v feeds for non factory mods - NAXJA Forums -::- North American XJ Association What do you think it would take to get it ready to go? Also, the shipping on the dirt bound site seems excessive, seems to be charging per item rather than grouping, so I am not sure I'll go this route.

4) Can you post some shots of the "boring" under hood connections of your IBS install? I have not really seen any good pics of a complete and clean installation. I assume you are running the pass side battery as the secondary, and driver as primary. So you would have all the fuse blocks connected to the pass side battery and would have a winch, if installed, attached to the primary driver side battery per the IBS instructions. I just want to get a visual of how you did this since the fuse blocks are located on the drivers side.

 

[jangoforhire]

Jango,

Electrical looks great. I have been researching how to implement similar system and have a few questions.

1) Do you think there might be room to install 2 rows of switches rather than one long one on the driver dash? Maybe a row of 4 and 3? This photo edit has the layout of (2) equal size rows, but the lower row is too long. So I am hoping a row of (4) and a row of (3) might work.

I know the inset for the blank plug would be between the rows, but I think that could be addressed.

My goal would be seven switches. An "ACTIVATE PANEL" switch that controls all of the switches in the two rows, then FRONT BUMPER LIGHTS switch, FRONT ROOF LIGHTS switch, REAR ROOF LIGHTS switch. And in a second row, separate control of RIGHT SIDE ROOF, LEFT SIDE ROOF, and a ROCK LIGHTS switch.

2) I have a platform in the cargo area and will probably have drawers at some point, so don't want to have the switches in the rear cargo area. (This question may show my wiring idiocy, but it will be revealed at some point, so....) Would the Wiring diagram be the exact same if the rear switches were simply removed from the diagram or would any changes be desired or required?

3) Just my luck, the wired wagon guy has stopped selling the relay fuse blocks. So it is either a blue sea option, or I have found this alternate source, dirt bound offroad. It seems to be pretty much the same product as the wired wagon block. Aux Relay / Fuse Panel*|*DirtBound Offroad However, the information on the dirt bound site is, lacking..., so I am not sure if it is ready to go. Someone in this thread indicates it comes with fuses and relays. Neater way of organising 12v feeds for non factory mods - NAXJA Forums -::- North American XJ Association What do you think it would take to get it ready to go? Also, the shipping on the dirt bound site seems excessive, seems to be charging per item rather than grouping, so I am not sure I'll go this route.

4) Can you post some shots of the "boring" under hood connections of your IBS install? I have not really seen any good pics of a complete and clean installation. I assume you are running the pass side battery as the secondary, and driver as primary. So you would have all the fuse blocks connected to the pass side battery and would have a winch, if installed, attached to the primary driver side battery per the IBS instructions. I just want to get a visual of how you did this since the fuse blocks are located on the drivers side.

1) I think there SHOULD be room, check Okki and Adio3x's build. I know they have switches mounted in the same place and it might give you some more info. I think one of them might even have exactly what you are talking about. I can't say for certain though. Easiest way to check for sure would be to just pop off that panel and check for yourself. If you are doing all this wiring yourself you need to learn sooner or later how to get that panel on and off quickly! I even drove around with it removed for a few days while I was doing all my work. EDIT: I was right, here is a link to adio3x's switches. http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/71616-adio3xs-build-pic-thread-21.html#post1141280

2) In short, yes. I still had the photoshop file from my diagram, so I edited it real quick. You REALLY only need one fuse/relay box. I am only using one right now.

I just have the second one for in for the future. In my original wire diagram I showed the 3 prong (this is the one that is "hot" when the switch is on) from the "activate switch" going back to the fuse box, triping the relay, and then sending the hot wire from the tripped relay to supply power to the other switches. This is WAY overkill, so I left it out when I wired mine. I edited it out in the wiring diagram I re-did for you, the changed wire is shown in orange.

None of these switches are switching any load. They are all just switching relays, so we only need to supply the small voltage that the relays require to be switched. This is why you don't have to worry about sending a lot of voltage to the "input" (prong 2) of the switch.

Here is the diagram I changed for you: (I didn't bother changing the labels for the lights, but you should get the idea here. This should be exactly what you need).

Custom wire diagram without rear panel.


3) That seems very expensive... It is the exact same fusebox's as wired wagon was selling. He just did all the work for you. The clips for the fuses and relays were already installed, and the entire box was all pre-wired. Also it came with that mounting stand listed below the main box in that link. See if you can find this somewhere else because I am pretty sure I didn't pay more than $95 each for the wired wagon pre-made fuse/relay boxes. Those clips are usually not to bad to install, you push them in and the click and you're good to go. The tedious part is attaching the wires to them, you need a crimper and heat shrink and patience. But it's not a bad project if you don't mind wiring. I'm sure it includes diagrams for wiring it, but if not I can help you out. It's not to difficult at all once you understand what's going on in those boxes.

4) I will take shots of the wire routing this weekend for you. It's not too difficult. There is one loomed wire going from passenger to driver side already so I just used the same path and zip tied to the factory wire every foot or so. It's getting very full there now, with the dual battery cables, wiring for the 2 fuse boxes, and air lines running across the back of the engine compartment. The nice thing about it though is once you wire in the fuse boxes you shouldn't have to run anything back to the passenger side anymore. Also my dual battery wiring is attached to the top posts of my yellow top (which is in the aux battery) and all the accessories are wired to the side posts. Keeps things looking a bit neater. Also all my wiring runs under the air box, I din't like the look of going over the top or off to the side.


Hope that helped. Let me know if you have any other questions!

 

[jangoforhire]

Needed to get out of the city for a while today so I tracked down some dirt roads! They are surprisingly hard to come by (that I am allowed to drive on at least). Nevertheless I found a nice 5 mile trail not to far from me that is mostly dirt and had a few stream crossings. Nothing technical whatsoever. Which is probably better considering I was out there alone. But still, a stock could have done this backwards. But it was still fun to get off the pavement!

This one is right after one of the simple water crossings.

 

[macntatsch]

Relay Box

3) That seems very expensive... It is the exact same fusebox's as wired wagon was selling. He just did all the work for you. The clips for the fuses and relays were already installed, and the entire box was all pre-wired. Also it came with that mounting stand listed below the main box in that link. See if you can find this somewhere else because I am pretty sure I didn't pay more than $95 each for the wired wagon pre-made fuse/relay boxes. Those clips are usually not to bad to install, you push them in and the click and you're good to go. The tedious part is attaching the wires to them, you need a crimper and heat shrink and patience. But it's not a bad project if you don't mind wiring. I'm sure it includes diagrams for wiring it, but if not I can help you out. It's not to difficult at all once you understand what's going on in those boxes.

I have one of WiredWagon's boxes but want to add a second. I've been looking at Waytek Wiring. They have the boxes and all the fuses, relays, connectors and plugs. I haven't done the price comparison but all the piece parts are fairly inexpensive.

 

[Mick1]

Jango,

Thanks for the information. I am currently looking at the sPOD built for the FJ as a possible easier auxiliary wiring solution. Based on the pictures I have seen it looks like the sPOD under-hood fuse box mounts in a open spot in our truck. Dirty Parts makes a (6) switch panel for the sPOD that measures 5" x 4" x 3/4" deep. I fabbed up a cardboard piece to test fit it, however I am more interested in getting two rows of OTRTTW switches that won't stick out as far.

Which leads me to my question....

I can't find any info on the dimensions of the Contura V switches you have. What are the dimension of the 6 switch panel you have? And if it were only (4) and (3) long? I think I will have to call the OTRTTW people tomorrow because I don't see any options for how the switches are grouped in a panel.

Here is a link to the pics I took of the test fit and some others I have snagged from the net. http://rhino4runnersuspension.shutterfly.com/pictures/949

 

[jangoforhire]

Jango,

Thanks for the information. I am currently looking at the sPOD built for the FJ as a possible easier auxiliary wiring solution. Based on the pictures I have seen it looks like the sPOD under-hood fuse box mounts in a open spot in our truck. Dirty Parts makes a (6) switch panel for the sPOD that measures 5" x 4" x 3/4" deep. I fabbed up a cardboard piece to test fit it, however I am more interested in getting two rows of OTRTTW switches that won't stick out as far.

Which leads me to my question....

I can't find any info on the dimensions of the Contura V switches you have. What are the dimension of the 6 switch panel you have? And if it were only (4) and (3) long? I think I will have to call the OTRTTW people tomorrow because I don't see any options for how the switches are grouped in a panel.

Here is a link to the pics I took of the test fit and some others I have snagged from the net. http://rhino4runnersuspension.shutterfly.com/pictures/949

I looked at the sPOD a bit too, but I think I decided not to get it because I needed more relays and fuses than it provided.

All the dimensions for the switch panels are on OTRATTW's site. They only sell a 1, 3 or 6 switch holder. As for the grouping, you can put them in in whatever order you want.

here's the link to some of the switch holders with dimensions:
OTRATTW

 

[Mick1]

Thanks, I was not finding that info on the site.

 

[GorillaSooner]

Great build. Love all the electrical work.

 

[jangoforhire]

Thanks, I was not finding that info on the site.

No problem.

Great build. Love all the electrical work.

Thanks!

 

[jangoforhire]

The TE conversion is coming up quickly. I should be picking up the front and rear bumper and then sending them off to get painted this week. While I was going over everything I came up with an idea...

A few minutes on photoshop later and this is what I ended up with. I can't decide which one I like better. It wouldn't be a big deal to get the center piece painted BP as well to match...

Opinions?

(Thanks to Hbryanlopez for the pics I edited)

Original:

Painted:

Original:

Painted:

 

[mikey's2010SR5]

I like it. Really sets off the look better. Looks classier if that is possible.

 

[Ttn333]

That is going to look sick, especially with your HID.

 

[Titanpat57]

I think I like the black a bit better. All white seems a bit "civilized".

 

[phillyd2]

Painted

1. Looks better IMHO
2. You are not building a Trail Edition but modding a Limited to increase its clearance so it should look different (more civilized) than them trucks.

Plan B = Add a SWITCH to change the color from white to black based on your mood.

 

[FactoryRide]

What he said ^^ I like the switch idea.

But what's a TE conversion without black TE plastic? I may be biased though. Either way, it looks good.

 

[STLDAVE]

The black looks more utilitarian. The white is classier. What are YOU looking for?

 

[jangoforhire]

Thanks for the input guys. I think I am leaning more towards painting that front piece white. it will offset my lights and grill a bit more I think.

 

[1engineer]

Thanks for the input guys. I think I am leaning more towards painting that front piece white. it will offset my lights and grill a bit more I think.

See, I don't think about it in those terms. If I had the option of painted vs. unpainted I would think "Hmmm, more rock and bug and debris chips with painted and less without. No brainer unpainted for sure." I guess that's why I am who I am.

 

[jangoforhire]

See, I don't think about it in those terms. If I had the option of painted vs. unpainted I would think "Hmmm, more rock and bug and debris chips with painted and less without. No brainer unpainted for sure." I guess that's why I am who I am.

That's a very good point, that I have thought of. This is definitely a prominent place that could take a lot of debris etc. I have been talking to a lot of different shops trying to find a place to have this painted and I have heard many people tell me that tri-coat paints (such as the Blizzard Pearl) are much less durable than normal paints. Which is most likely why Toyota doesn't have a BP trail edition as a factory option. They know it's going to get more use on the trail, and the paint wouldn't hold up as well.

The nice thing is that this piece is easy to remove, and not too expensive to replace. So if I find that it's getting torn up a lot I can simply replace it with the standard black version and it shouldn't take more than 30 minutes of my time.