JDM vs Junkyard search - What's my best bet?

[NEKExplorer]

So after about 255k I think it's time to replace my motor. I am going to stick with a 5vz-fe because I can't afford all the other mods to jump up to the 1uz.

Anyway, what is my best bet for finding a low (50-125k) mileage replacement engine that will last another 150-200k? I have found some junkyard listings nearby with motors in the 130s, but would I get more out of a JDM purchase? If JDM is the way to go, who is the most reliable seller/importer in the northeastern US?

 

[jgue467]

Well all 5vz engines are made in japan, so no Major diffs there, maybe some diffs in whether they have an oil cooler or not, stuff like that.

Eventually we all have to make a choice.

I'd go with the one that had some kind of warranty, as long as that engine didn't cost $200 more to start.

Planning to drop in yourself or pay someone?
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hey isn't american money created by the central bank and not private banks? same issues exist, but private banks cannot "create" money, only the US Treasury, still crooks...

 

[RandyBobandy]

From what I read on here the JDM engines come from a front wheel drive vehicle of some sort so you will have to reuse a bunch of components from your existing engine, so take that into account as well

 

[4Reak Show]

Why is it time to replace the engine? A lot of people are 300k+ and going fine. I just read a story about a tundra hitting a million on original engine.

 

[dogtail]

I see you're in Vermont. Good motors are easy to find in New England. Neglected rotted out 3rd gens are in abundance. Not sure why your motor is toast at 255K, that's low. 300K is an easy walk in the park.
I have 330K on my swapped motor that I picked up at 112K for $1,200 out of a rot box. I paid top dollar, but the motor was really good and verifiable. Other than plugs, wires and timing belt kit haven't done anything else. Runs great.
Try to find a motor in a running vehicle where you can verify condition and mileage. Preferable with digital odometer.
The one I found the guy pulled the motor out of the rusty rig himself after I paid him my deposit. When I went to pick the motor up, I slid it into the back of my 4runner up a ramp and drove it away.

 

[HugeFatChick]

I am finishing up a jdm 5vz and it was kinda a pain in the ass you literally need to strip down every thing until the engine is a block and two heads, mine i had to swap the water pump, in order to do that I did new timing belt and tensioner, new gaskets for the intake exhaust oil cooler what not. End result I have a damn clean engine that should be good once I figure out some minor issues. Long story short, if you wanted to do it in as little time and effort possible buy an engine that was out of a 4Runner.

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[JohnMc]

I did some research a short while back on a similar issue*, and from what I deduced - those mileage claims on JDM motors are often pretty fishy. Sort of heavily leaning on the stereotype that Japanese cars barely get driven, just pampered, until they get parted still in perfect shape. But that's not the case. And they don't really track inventory so carefully between junkyards in Japan, to being shipped over in a shipping container crammed full of motors, to the resellers here. So many of the sellers here just put a fairly random '50K' mileage claim. But it could be 50 (if you're really lucky). Or 150. Or 250. You really need to make sure you get a well documented (a video showing the test and zooming in on the ID number (ahem, without edits/cuts, lol) compression test. Granted, a pretty high mileage motor can still have great compression as well, like my wife's '96 with 313K miles on it.

* not a 4Runner motor, but we bought a dead Highlander with a bad engine that a shop said needed to be replaced. It ended up just needing a new cylinder head, though.

 

[Batmango66]

I think either way, luck plays apart in what you get. did a JDM swap several years ago on my CRX was quoted a 30k miles engine, what I got looked to have more than 30k on it just by the look of the head. There was no way to acuatlly verify one way or the other, more of a hunch than anything. I never had an issue with the engine and got a bunch more miles out of it, hard miles with the upgrades that I did. Also did a swap from a junk yard locally on a '63 chevy pick up that I took the 6 cyl out of and put a 350 in, had no issues there. Felt lucky both times. The JDM did have several things that I had to swap over and it was a carbureted engine, not fuel injected.

I know none of that was very helpful... If I did it again, I would have the same dilemma as to which way to go, if you could get some kind of certified engine (higher cost I'm sure), that would be better but, if you have to swap a ton of crap from one to the other, I would take the US or CA over JDM. You could always do a diesel from an AU Prado and make us all jealous...

 

[tvpierce]

I see you're in Vermont. Good motors are easy to find in New England. Neglected rotted out 3rd gens are in abundance. Not sure why your motor is toast at 255K, that's low. 300K is an easy walk in the park.
I have 330K on my swapped motor that I picked up at 112K for $1,200 out of a rot box. I paid top dollar, but the motor was really good and verifiable. Other than plugs, wires and timing belt kit haven't done anything else. Runs great.
Try to find a motor in a running vehicle where you can verify condition and mileage. Preferable with digital odometer.
The one I found the guy pulled the motor out of the rusty rig himself after I paid him my deposit. When I went to pick the motor up, I slid it into the back of my 4runner up a ramp and drove it away.

+1

Unless it shows signs of abuse, I wouldn't replace it preemptively.

 

[Lomtikirik]

Hi! I'm just wondering what option you have used, as you never updated. Let us know!

 

[brillo_76]

Used engines are always a gamble no matter the source unless you can verify the milage and check it before installation. The v6 in the 3rd gen is an incredibly durable engine. Can easily go 500 to 700k miles if properly maintained with oil changes etc.



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[JohnMc]

Hi! I'm just wondering what option you have used, as you never updated. Let us know!

If you look at the OP's other threads, it looks like they got an engine and 5-spd trans from a junkyard '98 4Runner.

Part Number/Size Needed Please - Bolts that fasten Transmission to Engine Block

Exhaust Manifold Removal/Info

 

[NEKExplorer]

Yes I bought a used engine from a 98 4Runner at a junkyard. I boughout a 99 Runner as a donor rig for the 5 speed swap.

I am happy with the engine, and from what I have read it might have been less hassle than dealing with a JDm, I can't say for sure though.

But like other people said, used engines are always a gamble, I think I was fortunate this time.

 

[BuffaloBass]

Or even if written poorly. stupid Chat bots.

ANYWAY...... I bought a MEXi reman from LKQ. It "looks" fine, with proper Toyota parts. It was $1200 more than a junk yard Ebay mill. $3700 v $2500.

With all the work involved in an engine swap ( as compared to the American iron I typically work on), I sure as heck dont want to do it again.

Unfortunately, it will be spring before the resto is done and I see how well the Mexi 5VZ runs.

FYI Gearhead engines. LKQs "amature/hobbyist" division. Remanufactured Engines and Transmissions | Gearhead

 

[gamefreakgc]

Or even if written poorly. stupid Chat bots.

ANYWAY...... I bought a MEXi reman from LKQ. It "looks" fine, with proper Toyota parts. It was $1200 more than a junk yard Ebay mill. $3700 v $2500.

With all the work involved in an engine swap ( as compared to the American iron I typically work on), I sure as heck dont want to do it again.

Unfortunately, it will be spring before the resto is done and I see how well the Mexi 5VZ runs.

FYI Gearhead engines. LKQs "amature/hobbyist" division. Remanufactured Engines and Transmissions | Gearhead

I think the oversupply of JDM and overseas 5VZ must have dried up. Back in 2018 I paid extra for a JDM and cost me $1200. They were available in junkyards for $800 or less back them. Crazy to think they've tripled in price now.

I don't think you'll have any trouble with a reman US/North America market engine. The hardest part by far is disconnecting the transmission bellhousing from the engine. Buy a collection of wobble extensions and regular extensions and a nice 24" breaker bar and it's not too hard. Lots of flashlights too to light up the area so you can see the bolts. The rest is pretty straightforward. Good luck with the swap.

 

[raty4R]

I bought mine from LKQ/car-parts.com. They both show pictures of the vehicles, mileage and vin number. I looked at the pictures and eliminated all 4Runners that looked trashed. (owner prob didn't take care of it). On the engines with low miles I ran the vin through The Toyota.com owners site to see if it had any history. I found one that was listed with like 150xxx miles that showed dealer repairs with like 260xxx so that was a pass.
I found one with 134xxx miles that showed dealer services since 30xxx miles. Oil changes, timing belt, brakes, trans service etc. Looked very well taken car of. 2 owners. I checked that vin on car-parts.com. They had same engine listed for 150$ cheaper. Called them they were part of the LKQ family. So they shipped it to an LKQ in Dallas ( they were in Sacramento) for free. The LKQ shopped delivered to my shop for free too. I paid $1300 about 3ish years ago. Win Win.
If you're not in a hurry that's what I would do again.

 

[BuffaloBass]

PS, the "Taco Toyota" reman from Mexico comes pretty stripped down, no valves covers etc. So there is some work to be done before you bolt it in.

And I think GEARHEAD ENGINEs, where the taco toyo came from, is also part of the LKQ corporate empire.

ALSO,judging by the quality of the 90-$300 balancers out there ( they're all the same), I will be reusing the 280,000 mile harmoic balancer. Replacements are crap.

PSS, local engine shop quoted me "approxiamtely $4000" to rebuild the 5VZ. They don't do many, if any. So I went with the 3 yr warranty at a few bucks less with someone who may knwo their way around a 5VZ.

So far only issue is having to shave down the dipstick to fit in the undersized hole in the oil pump housing.

AS gamefreak says, the transmission IS THE PITA. And having too big hands. EVERYTHING is in a nook or cranny.