Jerod's Supercharged T[u]RD Build

[05SVRACER]

So just did a cold compression test and re-gap the plugs as you had suggested 35. Cold they averaged 140 to 150 except for cylinder 3 which averaged 65.. .faak. Flooding at warm up now and I'm going to retest cylinder 3. Crapy thing is is this engine only has about 65,000 mi on a full rebuild with LC Pistons bottom end everything. It's been using some oil but I just chopped that up to the supercharger, must be because cylinder three.

 

[gamefreakgc]

So just did a cold compression test and re-gap the plugs as you had suggested 35. Cold they averaged 140 to 150 except for cylinder 3 which averaged 65.. .faak. Flooding at warm up now and I'm going to retest cylinder 3. Crapy thing is is this engine only has about 65,000 mi on a full rebuild with LC Pistons bottom end everything. It's been using some oil but I just chopped that up to the supercharger, must be because cylinder three.

Ah, that's a real bummer. It was cylinder 6 that got me. Try putting in a tablesspoon or so of oil in 3 and test it, if the compression goes up it's the piston rings. If it doesn't, it could just be a valve out of adjustment which can be fixed. Not easy, but can be done by re-shimming the offending valve(s). A leakdown test will tell you for sure as well.

 

[gamefreakgc]

Next step in my build is to see if I can get a hotter and stronger spark to my engine in preparation for running the 2.0" pulley again and/or nitrous. I'm also going to start adding temperature data to my dyno runs to help adjust for when I run them in Winter vs Summer (difference of about 40 degrees daytime temps). I ordered a set of Magnecor KV85 Competition Spark Plug Wires from LCE Performance for $95 (Memorial Day sale 10% off): Pro Spark Plug Wire Set - 5VZ(96-04).

I want as much spark as possible going to the driver's side bank. I did 4 runs, 2 with the stock wire set I had on there and 2 with the Magnecor wires. The results were identical which is not surprising since I haven't actually increase the spark energy. Good to know my old wires were up to the task! You'll notice the blue line, the Magnecor run was a tad bit lower. This was after doing 4 runs so there was a bit of heat soak setting in.

Up next is the hotter coils from NPboosted.com. They should supply around 15% more spark energy to my IK24's. Stay tuned [MENTION=121903]Black798[/MENTION]! Oh and it might be a little while, my 3rd child is due any day now so I might go dark for a few weeks.

HP Increase:

0 HP (isn't supposed to add power)

Running Total:

+126 HP

 

[19963.4lsr5]

It be nice to see your air fuel ratio as part of the dyno chart. 24psi.....dam.

Do you watch your AF when you get detonation? My brothers wego data logs which is nice. He drag races a 2001 ZX12 Ninja and uses that data to tweak the fuel and spark maps.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[gamefreakgc]

It be nice to see your air fuel ratio as part of the dyno chart. 24psi.....dam.

Do you watch your AF when you get detonation? My brothers wego data logs which is nice. He drag races a 2001 ZX12 Ninja and uses that data to tweak the fuel and spark maps.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I can't get the AEM FIC 6 log to play nice with the Virtual Dyno program. It refuses to show AFR data. The PSI is actually PSIA, so atmospheric pressure of 14.6 + plus boost, so around 10 PSI of boost on top of sea level air pressure. If I were making 24 lbs of boost...

I do watch A/F and it'll ping all the way to the low 12's. Problem for me now is less about more fuel and more about timing advance. My stock ECU doesn't know how much power it makes and will stay in O/D up steep hill chugging nicely at 2100 RPM's. No knock sensor input to the ECU at that level so it heaps on the timing advance to save fuel, and pings. That's the only spot left to tune out. The FIC 6 isn't smart enough to self-tune, those newer units are slick and will. They'll even optimize to a targe AFR ratio! That would be amazing.

 

[TheShowtime]

Congratulations on your child Jerod!

 

[19963.4lsr5]

I can't get the AEM FIC 6 log to play nice with the Virtual Dyno program. It refuses to show AFR data. The PSI is actually PSIA, so atmospheric pressure of 14.6 + plus boost, so around 10 PSI of boost on top of sea level air pressure. If I were making 24 lbs of boost...

I do watch A/F and it'll ping all the way to the low 12's. Problem for me now is less about more fuel and more about timing advance. My stock ECU doesn't know how much power it makes and will stay in O/D up steep hill chugging nicely at 2100 RPM's. No knock sensor input to the ECU at that level so it heaps on the timing advance to save fuel, and pings. That's the only spot left to tune out. The FIC 6 isn't smart enough to self-tune, those newer units are slick and will. They'll even optimize to a targe AFR ratio! That would be amazing.

Yea, PSIA makes more sense. My stock 94 Cummins blows 30psi with the waste gate unhooked. I shouldn’t say stock....the throttle plate is advanced 2mm.

Toyota does it’s engine management so different from my Saturn. Ignoring the knock sensors below 3000rpm is stupid. My Satty is constantly trying to achieve max spark advance. It uses the background noise at idle to determine and eliminate mechanical noise.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[gamefreakgc]

Got the hotter coils in from NPBoosted.com. They are yellow... not my favorite color but it's ok. UF156 C1041 90919-02212 Pack of 3 Ignition Coils for 95-04 Toyota 3.4L | NPBoosted

Took a couple of runs and it seemed to pull harder to redline with each successful pull. I ended up with the following results:

The mid-range is pretty much the same which makes sense, since the engine is only turning 3000-4500 RPM's so stock coils keep up just fine. But the top end? Look how it gains some power all the way to the 5500 redline, in fact peak HP is right at redline. My stock coils were not putting out a hot enough spark all the way to the top end. I'm pleased with this result, as it shows there was a need for a better spark. I'll call this a 5 HP gain. However as you see, it's not felt anywhere but the top end so pretty useless power gain, just a dyno queen number...

In other news, my 3rd child was born one week ago. A baby boy! That's girls 2, boys 1. Both him and my wife are doing great.

HP Increase:

5 HP waaay at the top

Running Total:

+131 HP

 

[FrogginAround]

In other news, my 3rd child was born one week ago. A baby boy! That's girls 2, boys 1. Both him and my wife are doing great.

HP Increase:

5 HP waaay at the top

Running Total:

+131 HP

Congratulations on a healthy baby. Can we get some videos of this beast moving? 300lb/ft torque God damn.

 

[gamefreakgc]

Congratulations on a healthy baby. Can we get some videos of this beast moving? 300lb/ft torque God damn.

Thanks! He's doing great and is pretty chill compared to our other two.

I got a somewhat decent phone this week that can actually take video. I don't like driving one-handed and my wife doesn't like it when I drive fast so no videos yet. I'm getting a new exhaust put on by the end of the week so hoping to at least get a sound clip of that.

 

[FrogginAround]

Sounds good. I've been following this build for a while. I really appreciate you throwing a lot of information out to the community.

 

[clearock]

I can't get the AEM FIC 6 log to play nice with the Virtual Dyno program. It refuses to show AFR data. The PSI is actually PSIA, so atmospheric pressure of 14.6 + plus boost, so around 10 PSI of boost on top of sea level air pressure. If I were making 24 lbs of boost...

I do watch A/F and it'll ping all the way to the low 12's. Problem for me now is less about more fuel and more about timing advance. My stock ECU doesn't know how much power it makes and will stay in O/D up steep hill chugging nicely at 2100 RPM's. No knock sensor input to the ECU at that level so it heaps on the timing advance to save fuel, and pings. That's the only spot left to tune out. The FIC 6 isn't smart enough to self-tune, those newer units are slick and will. They'll even optimize to a targe AFR ratio! That would be amazing.

which of the new units would u go with if u were starting fresh?

 

[gamefreakgc]

which of the new units would u go with if u were starting fresh?

The MAP ECU3 that URD sells is a step up from the AEM piggyback. It allows for more control like timing advance: Map-ECU3 Fuel and Ignition Control - UNIVERSAL - Underdog Racing Development. Their UCON EMS system is twice the price and self-tunes but is not available for our 3rd Gens yet (or perhaps at all).

I think my vehicle could benefit from timing advance so I'd go with something like the MAP ECU3. Other users on here have used it with good success as well.

 

[gamefreakgc]

3" Custom Exhaust Part 1

The new exhaust is on! First impressions after one week of driving is it really woke up my engine. Low-end torque is much stronger and it builds boost quicker! See below for my detailed review of performance and sound. First the sound clip and photos:

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The exhaust goes from my Doug Thorley headers with 1.5" primaries to a 2.25" Tri-Y collector on each side to a 2.5" downpipe. From there, it enters the 2.5" Magnaflow high-flow catalytic converter (Part # 445006, $240:

Then it bumps up to a beefy 3" from the cat back. The stock pipe is 2.25" exiting the exhaust. Going to 2.25" to 3" piping is an 80% increase in surface area size and a roughly 83% increase in cfm's.

Next it goes through a 3" Borla ProXS muffler (Part # 40359, only $84 on Amazon):

Finally, it goes over the axle and exits out a 3.5" exhaust tip. This particular one is 12" long since I don't like the look of the tiny short ones.

I'm ecstatic on how it turned out! A local shop in Sacramento, Muffler Tech did the exhaust work and did a great job. Competitive pricing too for what I wanted done as I got a couple of quotes. Total was $636 for the exhaust installation plus $84 for the muffler and $215 for the converter (sale) came to a total of $935.

UPDATE: Here's the dyno graph! I had some heat soak after the re-tune so it might even be more than this on the first or second run! Max power gain is +16HP and +22TQ! Peak torque gain is 15TQ! Due to where it was added on the power band, peak HP is unchanged. Can really feel the difference in power from 2000 to 4500 RPMs!

You can see the result of the heat soak as I made about 0.5 PSI less boost and power starts to nose dive quicker above 5000 RPMs.

Power: The power band on the engine is much bigger now! The throttle pedal is very responsive and it builds boost with less throttle and at lower RPM's. The mid-range is where it's the most noticeable, I've only pushed it to WOT once in the past week because I'm going too fast way before then! I logged some WOT runes but my tune was between 13.2 - 12.5 AFR's and totally off now, it flows that much more air! Previously was 12.0-12.2. Even with the AFR's off, it STILL had a peak gain of +17RWTQ and +10RWHP at 3500 RPM (where you want the power)!. I am in the process of re-tuning it and will post up a graph when it's done.

Sound: It's kinda loud, louder than I wanted. It'll quiet down the more I drive it as the muffler insulation settles down. The tone is nice at startup and idle, it's a low grumble that's quite intimidating. Cruising around town it's on the loud side under acceleration but sounds great when held steady. At freeway speeds it has a loud drone at 2100 RPM's that I hope quiets down over time as it's hard to hold a conversation. At WOT, this thing is nasty! Growls and screams but nothing raspy or ricey. If the freeway speed sound doesn't calm down I'll see about putting in a resonator to help with those frequencies.

Results:

HP Increase:

0 Peak, 16 Max gain*

Running Total:

+131 HP

*This is one of those things that's hard to show on a dyno graph when just comparing peak power output. There's no peak gain because the Peak HP is over 5000 RPM's while the exhaust power band is from 2000 to 4500 RPM. Cars built for very high RPM HP numbers that build all the power on the high-end might look great on a dyno but in real world driving aren't as much fun to drive as one that builds power in the low RPM range. That's why I don't chase power up high.

 

[TheShowtime]

Man that thing sounds nice! How much hp do you have now?

 

[gamefreakgc]

Man that thing sounds nice! How much hp do you have now?

Last run I did it prior to the exhaust I peaked at 290 HP. Since these engines don't rev much above 5400 RPM, the HP numbers will always be low (Torque x RPM / 5,252). Topped out at 310 TQ at 4500 RPM so that's where the power band is right now. The one good run I did get in with the exhaust showed max gains at 3500 RPM though which makes it even more fun to drive. And that's with an AFR ratio of 13 at 3500 RPM which isn't very good, there's more power on the table.

I've got a new tune to try out but it's pretty dang hot here right now. Last run I logged was in the low 70's and it's in the low 100's today. Hard to compare the power outputs even with the correction factor since these superchargers lose efficiency quickly when it's this hot outside.

 

[phattyduck]

Sound: It's kinda loud, louder than I wanted. It'll quiet down the more I drive it as the muffler insulation settles down. The tone is nice at startup and idle, it's a low grumble that's quite intimidating. Cruising around town it's on the loud side under acceleration but sounds great when held steady. At freeway speeds it has a loud drone at 2100 RPM's that I hope quiets down over time as it's hard to hold a conversation. At WOT, this thing is nasty! Growls and screams but nothing raspy or ricey. If the freeway speed sound doesn't calm down I'll see about putting in a resonator to help with those frequencies.

Stay tuned for the re-tune and performance results!

A single straight-through 3" muffler with headers on a supercharged motor? Yeah, it'll be loud. I'd suggest a complete second muffler on there between the cat and current muffler. Make sure it is a different size to absorb different frequencies. Or, whatever the longest resonator you can fit in the straight pipe section you have.

You'll loose a lot of sound volume, but probably not much if any performance.

-Charlie

 

[gamefreakgc]

Updated the exhaust post but putting a quick recap here. Max gain is +16HP and +22TQ (after temperature correction factor)! Peak gain is +16TQ, but 0HP due to it adding power on the low-mid range but not the high end. More importantly, it shifted the peak TQ to be 250 RPM's sooner!

 

[gamefreakgc]

Preview on what's coming next... 3" intake. Learning how to create a MAF re-map for a larger intake charge!

 

[gamefreakgc]

Eventful day yesterday.

I had booked a u-haul trailer to pickup some bunk beds for my kiddos as we just had our third child 3 months ago. On Friday, my engine threw that darn P0325 Knock Sensor Bank 1 code again! I got a bad sensor out of the box. No worries I thought, I can still tow I'll just go slow. Pull into u-haul to pickup my trailer and while idling outside, my electric fan dies. Come back to an overheated 4Runner and I need it to tow. Fun times. Hits around 240 degrees before I can get it on the freeway. Heat blasting, cruising slow in the right hand lane on highway 50 I get the temps down into the 190's (thank you low temp thermostat!). Pick up the bed, slowly make my way home and drop off the trailer. On the way back I get the temps back down to 185. Didn't know it was possible to tow a trailer 40+ miles without a cooling fan but it can be done!

Now I got to fix it.