JoeT4R’s 2001 SR5 Build & Maintenance Thread

[brillo_76]

Could it just be from changing your filter? If you thinking their maybe a leak on the pan there.. Get yourself a can or 2 of brake cleaner and clean that area very good so you can verify if there is a leak there on not.. To me it looks like oil coming from filter changes.

 

[JoeT4R]

Could it just be from changing your filter? If you thinking their maybe a leak on the pan there.. Get yourself a can or 2 of brake cleaner and clean that area very good so you can verify if there is a leak there on not.. To me it looks like oil coming from filter changes.

That’s what I’m honestly thinking at this point, especially since there isn’t any oil on the pan itself near the filter. That would make the most sense to me. I also switched to a high mileage motor oil to see if I get any different/better/worse results. I’ve never used high mileage stuff before and I don’t know if it actually works in terms of swelling old seals and stuff, but we’ll see how it does over the next few months.

 

[brillo_76]

That’s what I’m honestly thinking at this point, especially since there isn’t any oil on the pan itself near the filter. That would make the most sense to me. I also switched to a high mileage motor oil to see if I get any different/better/worse results. I’ve never used high mileage stuff before and I don’t know if it actually works in terms of swelling old seals and stuff, but we’ll see how it does over the next few months.

I never noticed any difference on the high mile oil... The only thing I ever noticed was dino to synthetic. If the seals leak on standard oil.. They leak a pile worse on synthetic. :/

 

[JoeT4R]

I never noticed any difference on the high mile oil... The only thing I ever noticed was dino to synthetic. If the seals leak on standard oil.. They leak a pile worse on synthetic. :/

I may not see a difference with it, which isn’t such a bad thing. Even Blackstone emailed me stating that in testing, there were no noticeable differences. So maybe it’s marketing hype, who knows. I’ve never ran conventional oil in my rig so I don’t know if I’d have any different experiences with it. I did just crawl beneath it and tidied everything up with degreaser and brake parts cleaner. So now I can be absolutely sure if there’s a leak or not!

 

[brillo_76]

I may not see a difference with it, which isn’t such a bad thing. Even Blackstone emailed me stating that in testing, there were no noticeable differences. So maybe it’s marketing hype, who knows. I’ve never ran conventional oil in my rig so I don’t know if I’d have any different experiences with it. I did just crawl beneath it and tidied everything up with degreaser and brake parts cleaner. So now I can be absolutely sure if there’s a leak or not!

Conventional oil not used as much. You have to watch though if they say on the jug. Synthetic blend doesn't mean 50/50. There isn't a standard on the %.

Almost all my vehicles run full synthetic. Except for my classics and tetanus 1.. Well Tetanus 1 (1998 sr5 4wd) runs full synthetic but I bump it to 10w-30 and add a quart of locus only because the engine needs resealed and if I don't. I loose too much oil in 5k miles..:/

If seals are really bad on an engine. You can can bump one grade up and add locus.. However, its better to just replace the seals then you can run the full synthetic and 5W-30 without any issues.. I just didnt get to this one yet to engine reseal it.

 

[JoeT4R]

Long, long overdue, I know...
Last night I extended my A/C drain by installing some leftover transmission cooler hose and a small hose clamp to secure it to the drain arm. Works great and didn't fly off during my drive in to work this morning. Will be searching for methods to secure the hose to prevent it from flopping around and potentially flying off while driving down the road. I paid nothing to do this mod since I had the resources lying around in my tool boxes, so that's a big plus. Doesn't have to be pretty, as long as it works and works properly.

Date: 7/2/22
Mileage: Unknown

<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/195517094@N03/52188529767/in/photostream/" title="A/C drain extension 7/2/22"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52188529767_6bd0e8eca2_z.jpg" width="640" height="480" alt="A/C drain extension 7/2/22"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/195517094@N03/52189547391/in/dateposted/" title="A/C drain extension 7/2/22"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52189547391_b619c2632d_z.jpg" width="640" height="480" alt="A/C drain extension 7/2/22"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>

 

[cl4Rk]

JoeT4R’s 2001 SR5 Build Thread

Will be searching for methods to secure the hose to prevent it from flopping around and potentially flying off while driving down the road.

I just used a zip tie

https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3692144-post33083.html

 

[JoeT4R]

I just used a zip tie

https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3692144-post33083.html

I really like how you pulled it back and secured it, rather than just letting it dangle from the drain! Looks great and I plan to do that tonight. I'm sure that decreases the amount of stress of the drain arm, too. Thanks dude.

 

[octanejunkie]

I used 3/8" ID vinyl hose, no clamp, and secured it to the mounting boss for the sway bar with a zip tie. I cut it 2" below the bottom of the frame. Pretty basic mod to direct the AC run off away from rusty bits.

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[JoeT4R]

Passed the Virginia Vehicle Emissions Inspection today. Stats posted below.
Date: 7/13/22
Mileage: 315,291

<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/195517094@N03/52214460525/in/dateposted/" title="VA Emissions Inspection Report"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52214460525_ed60f86e2a_c.jpg" width="800" height="463" alt="VA Emissions Inspection Report"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>

 

[JoeT4R]

As I love to go down the rabbit hole on a regular basis when it comes to oil, I finally confirmed what I had hoped to be true. SuperTech Full Synthetic High Mileage IS in fact produced by Warren Distribution. After lots of digging, I was able to type in the barcode from the oil container on this website: Wercs UPC/Barcode - Powered By The Wercs

It shows data sheets and gives pretty good info about products that you can purchase from the almighty Wally World. I had recently been reading that SuperTech was produced by different manufacturers depending on the region where you live. But that seems to be false. The link to the data sheet below reflects that it is in fact made by Warren Distribution. For anyone who cares or wants to know, the barcode on my oil container is 071621685761.

The link below shows a detailed report.
http://msds.walmartstores.com/clien...HazdocumentKey=undefined&MSDS=0&subformat=NAM

 

[JoeT4R]

Well, this happened today. A few years ago (2017) my truck was involved in a hit and run where the offender totaled my truck. This included the rear driver side fender flares, front driver door and front fender and fender flares. So I gathered the needed parts and got it fixed by an independent business/person. While they did a good job of painting the newly gathered parts, it seems as though when they reattached the rear driver door flare, they didn't install it the way it came from the factory. So today it just ripped right off without any warning or signs of weakness. Pretty bummed about that. Now begins the process of fixing those small rust spots on the door and then reattaching the flare to the door.

<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/195517094@N03/52234996812/in/photostream/" title="Driver side rear fender flare - 7/23/22"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52234996812_f2b6d14b48_z.jpg" width="640" height="480" alt="Driver side rear fender flare - 7/23/22"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
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[JoeT4R]

As of July 23rd, 2022

<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/195517094@N03/52240178031/in/dateposted/" title="7/24/22"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52240178031_9320c02a02_z.jpg" width="640" height="480" alt="7/24/22"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
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[brillo_76]

Well, this happened today. A few years ago (2017) my truck was involved in a hit and run where the offender totaled my truck. This included the rear driver side fender flares, front driver door and front fender and fender flares. So I gathered the needed parts and got it fixed by an independent business/person. While they did a good job of painting the newly gathered parts, it seems as though when they reattached the rear driver door flare, they didn't install it the way it came from the factory. So today it just ripped right off without any warning or signs of weakness. Pretty bummed about that. Now begins the process of fixing those small rust spots on the door and then reattaching the flare to the door.

<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/195517094@N03/52234996812/in/photostream/" title="Driver side rear fender flare - 7/23/22"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52234996812_f2b6d14b48_z.jpg" width="640" height="480" alt="Driver side rear fender flare - 7/23/22"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/195517094@N03/52236466403/in/photostream/" title="Untitled"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52236466403_6aa3735208_z.jpg" width="640" height="480" alt="Untitled"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
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If that was from 2017 around here. You entire door section would have been rusted off. That looks fairly easy to fix and you can even hide your work behind the fender flare..

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[JoeT4R]

Yesterday I took the 4Runner through one of those drive through car washes. Afterwards I went to park so I could take some photos of how it looked. Turns out that my passenger side headlight was burned out. Back in February of this year I installed some cheap Hella bulbs purchased off of Amazon and they were less than $10. So for the Hellas to only last 5 months, I can't be too mad I suppose. Given that I had to drive in the dark this morning, it was pretty urgent, so I went to the wonderful Wally World where I purchased some Sylvania Silverstar Ultra bulbs. They were $45.97 pre tax. Went back out to the parking lot and swapped them in before I even left.

They produce a noticeably "whiter" light than the Hellas, but overall they look really good. I've ran LED's in the past and I'm done with them, they're too cheap, burn out quickly and they aren't even made for my housings. Plus I think the halogens look good on older rigs. Driving into work this morning I noticed that these have a much wider beam spread and definitely illuminate the road ahead quite nicely. For $45 I think these were a good investment and would definitely recommend them. Hopefully they last much longer than 5 months!

Date: 7/28/22
Mileage: Unknown

<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/195517094@N03/52247870675/in/dateposted/" title="Burned out headlights - 7/28/22"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52247870675_8df73d066c_z.jpg" width="640" height="480" alt="Burned out headlights - 7/28/22"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
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[JoeT4R]

JoeT4R’s 2001 SR5 Build Thread

New NGK spark plugs (NGK 3967/BKR5EKB-11) and plug wires (NGK 4412/TE66)
Date: 8/6/22
Mileage: 316,143

 

[JoeT4R]

While on the way back to Hatteras Island, I saw a stranded motorist in the sand with a sign in the back window that said “I’M STUCK”
So, my 3 year old and I decided to stop. It was a young girl with her dog who had gotten her AWD subie stuck in the sand. Fortunately, I had my ARB recovery strap with me and put it to good use. Another guy, the one in the large blue Ford behind her, also pulled over to lend assistance. Her car was pretty low as it was and her front bumper was already tore up pretty badly. So we looped the recovery strap through the driver side lower control arm and back to my hitch shackle. Dropped it in 4Lo, locked the center diff and feathered the gas pedal. In a few seconds she was back out of the sand and off we all went. Pretty stoked to have had the opportunity to use the strap since I haven’t had to use it in years, so it’s very reassuring to know that the ol 4Runner still has it

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[JoeT4R]

JoeT4R’s 2001 SR5 Build Thread

Here are some photos from the trip to Hatteras. Still a full week ahead.

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[JoeT4R]

Non ethanol fill up at Harris Teeter in Kill Devil Hills. 90 octane (mid grade) for $4.66 per gallon. Would love to be able to run non ethanol exclusively all the time!

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[octanejunkie]

Non ethanol fill up at Harris Teeter in Kill Devil Hills. 90 octane (mid grade) for $4.66 per gallon. Would love to be able to run non ethanol exclusively all the time!

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The factory window sticker/mpg figures are based on 87 octane. These vehicles were built to run 87 (compression ratio, etc). It has been suggested that anything above 87 won't yield any improvement in mpg or performance - just a lighter wallet.

Curious to hear your impression of the experience.

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