June 2010 T4ROTM - harper7

Looks great HarpEr. I think your choice to go 8" wide instead of 9" wide was a smart one. If you ever decide to go with 35s down the road, these great looking rims can still be used (albeit with a squeezed on tire), but with spacers to avoid rubbing (you would also need a 6" lift, but that's anoher story).

Again, Looking SWEET!!! Keep the posts coming and if you could explain how you moved the front liner again, it would be helpful. I'm gettng the tiniest bit of rubbing, and don't feel like cutting anything just yet. I think my coilovers should solve the problem.
 
Hey Harper

Haven't thrown in here much because all this off road/body part exchange stuff was waaaaaaayyy over my head.

Just wanted to tell you how nice the truck came out...best of luck with it!

Pat
 
Thanks Pat!
Still a work in progress though.
Shrockworks on the way now?! :tongue: but why not let someone else "break the seal" on a few mods—you deserve a rest, 7harper(7)!

and you better hang on to what must be the most understanding wife/girlfriend in North America!
looks unreal. :thumb3:
 
Looks great HarpEr. I think your choice to go 8" wide instead of 9" wide was a smart one. If you ever decide to go with 35s down the road, these great looking rims can still be used (albeit with a squeezed on tire), but with spacers to avoid rubbing (you would also need a 6" lift, but that's anoher story).

Again, Looking SWEET!!! Keep the posts coming and if you could explain how you moved the front liner again, it would be helpful. I'm gettng the tiniest bit of rubbing, and don't feel like cutting anything just yet. I think my coilovers should solve the problem.
Rather then cut the liner off to prevent the rubbing. Do what's referred to as pulling the front part of the liner forward.

Elongate the 2 bottom holes,or maybe there's 3,in the liner by taking it loose,pushing it forward as far as possible and carefully making new holes just in the liner. I used an exacto knife but the abs plastic is kind of hard to work with. My suggestion is to put the new holes in with and Dremel with a small round ball or equivalent .Put the bolts back in and tighten. Wala.....You now have 1/2" -1" more clearance so your tire doesn't rub in the front.

Then when you have it aligned ,take it to a shop that knows what they are doing and have them align it so the wheel is forward(max caster).You may not get max caster with the stock UCA and one of the main reasons people use aftermarket ones . This will make it so it won't rub in the back ,on the mud flap in my case. Here is a pic I just took at the bottom front drivers side to try and give you an idea of what I'm talking about. See the gap I created where I moved it forward.That gets you an extra 1/2" or so of clearance and no rubbing. We need somebody to do a better write-up on this when/if they do it...hint sp8ball/antman!!!My bolts just look different because I used Aircraft stainless bolts/washer/nuts. I think it will make more sense when you get up under there and take the fasteners out and see that the liner can be pushed forward! It's a very simple mod.This is an old pic and of a TE liner. A SR5/Limited liner will be a little different to do, but the same principal to move the liner forward.
Wheelwelllinerrelocate.jpg~original
 

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Shrockworks on the way now?! :tongue: but why not let someone else "break the seal" on a few mods—you deserve a rest, 7harper(7)!

and you better hang on to what must be the most understanding wife/girlfriend in North America!
looks unreal. :thumb3:

Been almost 2 months since I ordered the SW sliders so any day I hope. I'm gonna call them again tomorrow.

My long time GF, Lisa is a little disturbed because I was gonna buy new furniture for my house. She's the best!And she understands my passion(some call it OCD...lol) for my rides,makes more money then me and has her own house with new furniture.She likes me going slow anyways. Last fall I just sold a highly modified 400+hp BMW M3(zero to death in 5 seconds) and my 06 runner and both were paid off so I have some extra play money.Besides ,Modding a 4runner is cheap compared to german sports cars , believe me.

I still can't log into my harper7 account :redbrick:
 
Thanks,I'm running the MT's all the time.I rode about 100 miles on them yesterday and love them. I still have the AT's ,was thinking of selling them with the rims or will use them for long trips and winter tires as MT's ,even though M&S rated, are not supposed to be good in snow/ice.


Thanks, These AR Mojave wheels are bombproof and super easy to clean. I was not impressed with the paint job as they are just painted ,like most aftermarket wheels and will scratch easier then if powdercoated.They have to keep the cost down to be competitive I guess but I would still recommend them 100%.

As far as fitting the 305's on aTE . It's all in the having the right rim size. With these,I am getting no rubbing at all with the mudflap removed.I have to do a mudflap mod on that bump on the inside of the mudflap for them to work. But I "pulled" the front inner fender liners forward 1/2-3/4 of an inch instead of cutting them.Basically ,I elongated the attach holes on the front liners about 3/4 " with an exacto knife,pushed them forward and then tightened the bolts. Can't even tell,no rubbing and looks factory.

I only have a 2 inch front Toytec spacer lift but in the market for coilovers to get more.


OK , here's a couple pics. I'm waiting on my Shrockworks sliders to come and be on any day to take/show pics.

Love it, Harper! Definitely the best 5th gen T4R I've seen.
 
Been almost 2 months since I ordered the SW sliders so any day I hope. I'm gonna call them again tomorrow.

My long time GF, Lisa is a little disturbed because I was gonna buy new furniture for my house. She's the best!And she understands my passion(some call it OCD...lol) for my rides,makes more money then me and has her own house with new furniture.She likes me going slow anyways. Last fall I just sold a highly modified 400+hp BMW M3(zero to death in 5 seconds) and my 06 runner and both were paid off so I have some extra play money.Besides ,Modding a 4runner is cheap compared to german sports cars , believe me.

I still can't log into my harper7 account :redbrick:

So do you have wheel spacers or anything? Or just wheel bolted directly to stock hub? How long did they take to arrive from when you placed an order?

Could you ask shrockworks while you're on the phone with them if they are planning on ramping up production? I would buy them immediately if they weren't 2+ month lead time. Plus that webpage hasn't been updated for some time, makes it seem a little sketchy.

Women, cars, and mods... dude, you have excellent taste!:bravo:
 
hey tell schrockworks to speed production on a winch bumper!!!! thats what im looking forward to seeing hahah:hungry:
 
I gotta have harper autograph my 4Runner! :D

Hey harper, here's some food for thought. Back when I owned an FJ and ppl were crazy about A-Trac (i had the fully optioned model so I didn't care much), they bought A-Trac switches and just plugged them into the pigtails in the dash. It'd be nice to see if you got pigtails for the TE crawl control crap in your control unit up above. Anyone with a TE want to confirm the pig tails?
 
Love it, Harper! Definitely the best 5th gen T4R I've seen.
Thanks Quentin!
So do you have wheel spacers or anything? Or just wheel bolted directly to stock hub? How long did they take to arrive from when you placed an order? No wheel spacers for these Mojaves. They are a perfect fit and this size was designed for the FJ's. They are lug centric and hub centric if you use the center caps.They arrived UPS in 3 days.
Could you ask shrockworks while you're on the phone with them if they are planning on ramping up production? I would buy them immediately if they weren't 2+ month lead time. Plus that webpage hasn't been updated for some time, makes it seem a little sketchy.
Shrockworks does custom work by order. I don't think they stock sliders. They are real busy and have thier business because of the quality of their products. You have to order it and be patient and believe me ,I know that's hard to do,especially when they charge your card upfront. That's the way they do business and always have and expanded their shop and still can't keep up with orders. Go figure!

hey tell schrockworks to speed production on a winch bumper!!!! thats what im looking forward to seeing hahah:hungry:
Probably be a long time as it's not even in design as far as I know.

Hey harper, here's some food for thought. Back when I owned an FJ and ppl were crazy about A-Trac (i had the fully optioned model so I didn't care much), they bought A-Trac switches and just plugged them into the pigtails in the dash. It'd be nice to see if you got pigtails for the TE crawl control crap in your control unit up above. Anyone with a TE want to confirm the pig tails?
So , what I think you are saying is you think the wiring for the crawl control might already be there and I may be able to just buy the crawl control switch and plug and play. I have no idea if the ECU's are the same or if it would need programmed. Maybe we'll see down the road.I'm more interested in a ARB rear locker and they are working on that.
 
So , what I think you are saying is you think the wiring for the crawl control might already be there and I may be able to just buy the crawl control switch and plug and play. I have no idea if the ECU's are the same or if it would need programmed. Maybe we'll see down the road.I'm more interested in a ARB rear locker and they are working on that.

Harper...I have a '08 LC which I've wheeled some, it has the crawl control. One word of advice, don't bother with it. It is kinda cool, but gimicky too. If you get yourself the ARB locker, it would negate any need for the crawl control. I'm thinking there is far too much to do in order to get it to work, like you say probably a new ECU, and the only real benefit is for someone who doesn't have experience in wheelin. I have yet to use mine on my Trail Edition. If you truly want it, put it on the bottom of the list...just my $0.02 (probably worth less though).
 
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So , what I think you are saying is you think the wiring for the crawl control might already be there and I may be able to just buy the crawl control switch and plug and play. I have no idea if the ECU's are the same or if it would need programmed. Maybe we'll see down the road.I'm more interested in a ARB rear locker and they are working on that.

Yeah, pretty much. I mean the crawl control isn't gimmicky as stated because I have tested it in a LC200 over boulders and it does exactly as advertised. But then again, I'm old fashion because I found myself doing the work and switching of the CRAWL but it's a cool toy to have but I'd invest in the ARB also. Who knows, maybe in the future you can add the front locker if you ever get into the extreme wheelin.
 
Harper,

So, are you still running just the 1" spacer lift up front? Stock rear?

Thanks,

Ryan
Still have the 1 inch Toytec spacer in the front which gives about 1 3/4 inch front lift . Ordered Icon remotes and LR UCA's last week.They should go on next weekend if they get here by then.
 
Harper,
Keep us up to speed man! Your rig is going to look amazing with the Icon installed. I have been contemplating buying the same suspension set up for my 4th gen and might just have to see your rig in person to persuade myself to drop the hammer and get it done.
 
Harper,
Keep us up to speed man! Your rig is going to look amazing with the Icon installed. I have been contemplating buying the same suspension set up for my 4th gen and might just have to see your rig in person to persuade myself to drop the hammer and get it done.
No Problem. I ended up ordering the Icon piggy backs for the rear too. They were building them for me yesterday and shipping next week. If they get here by Friday they will go on Sat. Your more then welcome to come up and see them in person or how they go on. Changing the UCA's too and have an extra set of LR's.Just PM me for my ph. #.
 

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