Knock Sensor on 2nd Gen v6

Attrition

Attrition

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Hello folks, I have an engine code 52 for a knock sensor/ wire harness on my 3VZ-E.

Does anyone know the part number for the wire harness?

Is their a way to test if the wire is bad externaly from the diagnostic box by the fuses?

I had a shop do my head gaskets, timing belt, water pump, and motor mounts but the engine code came up AFTER it was all put back together. Me and my buddy will be doing this on our own and any advice is appreciated, Thanks.
 
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hey there i got mine at tempe toyota cost about 12 bucks for the harness kinda a pain to replace top of engine has to be dissembled. as to diagnosing it forget it unless you have an oscilloscope.
 
The shop I took my 4runner to has a "retired" Toyota mechanic and did'nt bother to mention that I should probably replace it while he was in there repairing my head gasket and the shop wants $400 to go back in there to replace it. What a bunch of jerks.

I'm glad Toyota still carries the part, but too bad there parts counter is closed on sundays. Thanks for the input = )
 
I also have a thread here about the CEL being on after a shop did my head gasket job. Someone here mentioned the "knock sensor" too because I also have a code 52 from this.

I'm not sure what I'm supposed to do here. Your problem might be the exact same problem that I have.

If you've figured this out, please let me know.
 
From my research and shared opinions it seems that sometimes the knock sensor can either go bad or the wiring "pigtail" corrodes and shorts out. It's best to just replace both while your in their. My buddy moved to AZ from Cali and he is a good mechanic so this repair should only cost me the parts and a case of cold beers.

I went to my local Toyota dealer to get the parts I needed to make this happen and they did'nt have any in stock. Lucky for me all parts were 20% off this last saturday and they should be here this week. I'll keep you posted.

And just to add, if the knock sensor is out, the 4runner should run like crap. Sluggish, rough idle, and loss of gas mileage.
 
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Nope, it's running great actually. The CEL just comes on after start-up and stays on until I shut off the engine again.

I also believe I have a small air intake leak somewhere because my truck lightly "surges" a little when I'm going about 30 mph in 3rd gear -- but I don't think this is related to the CEL, but then again, I really have no idea.
 
My 93 4runner is doing the same, but at certain times it will run really sluggish. I read your thread and feel your pain. The pig tail is the wire harness that comes off the knock sensor that is inside your engine. The other female end of it can be seen underneath the intake manifold (outside). The only way to get to it is to drain all the coolant and oil and take the top of the engine off. And you have to replace ANOTHER head gasket and maybe a few other ones. I'm not looking foward to this.
 
I told the people at Toyota (parts and service) what I was doing and that I would be doing it myself. They told me that even though I had just recently had a head gasket repair done, it is absolutly necessary to replace the head gasket.
 
I have an intermitten stalling issue also. I need to look for worn rings or a bad valve. Worst case the knock sensor is actually doing it's job. I work 50 hour weeks and I'm trying to find the time to do this. I'll keep you posted.
 
Toyota still sells the wire harness or "pig tail". For my 1993 2nd gen v6 the part# is 82219-35010, it costs $12.
Since your 4runner is older the ends or terminals of the harness may be different.....or they may even be the same....idk. But what I do recommend is buying an actual Toyota replacement part. Good luck.
 
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Their is a small diagnostic box next to the fuse compartment under the hood. All you need to flash the CEL light is a paper clip.

The shop your going to is jerking you around and although they may be responsible, their customer service sucks and they don't seem to be wanting to help you out at all. I suggest you take it to another shop and see what they can do for you, just my $0.02
 
Thanks for posting that Toyota part # for the pigtail wire.

The parts man at my local Toyota Stealership was lost until I gave him your part number, which led him to the one I'd need for my '88.

They have one (1) currently in stock for $21.
 
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It's not all that hard a job, just a bit daunting to look at.
You have to be carefull with the big compression nut for the egr. LOTS of penetrating oil is good.
you have to be carefull with the vacuum lines, get them off and you'll have all maner of strange problems, like 4wd not working, surging, egr codes, etc etc.
You have to get ALL the old plenum gasket off. one little piece of the old gasket stuck to the plenum or intake manifold is a guaranteed vacuum leak.
The intake manifold gaskets NEED TO BE REPLACED. They have 2 coolant crossovers that will leak coolant into the block valley.
 
SUBTEGRAL said:
who?
Click to expand...

don't you mean 'what?'? read the 1st page....there's some argument about whether or not gaskets need to be replaced.

This is something that needs to be clarified before I begin this job, can't have everything apart and then realize that I need to order and wait for some gaskets to come in because this is my daily driver.
 
There is no need to pull cylinder heads to replace a knock sensor or it's wiring. Hence, there is no need to replace head gaskets.
 
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