Kurtis
New member
Next snow run... Let me know
Will do. We need it to snow more. Snow level is still pretty high. Might be taking a trip out HWY 530 in the next couple few weeks.
Next snow run... Let me know
I've been getting lots of PMs about the wiring on the roof rack lights and how I did it. I over complicated the lights a little and used some extra things like diodes to have a few of the creature comforts on my switches. Here's the basic diagram of how my system should be set up. I still need to make some corrections to my circuits to make them more current with the changes I have made in the last 8 months (Different bulb wattage, etc.). I'm not an artist in paint so if you don't like it, you can eat my ass.
I recommend that you get familiar with electricity before you start a wiring project like this. Learn what watts, volts, ohms, and amps are and how the relate to each other. Learn what AC and DC is and what the difference. (No, not the band) There is a bunch of websites out there that will give you a basic understanding of electricity. I also recommend getting familiar with soldering. It's not difficult and relatively cheap. You will get a better connection with soldering than using butt connectors and they won't fall apart. Don't forget heat shrink tubing at the connection too.
Lets set some base rules for the diagram first.
- Everything that is colored red is 12V DC.
- Everything color black (except the boxes) is ground.
- The upside down pyramid looks doohickies with 4 lines are ground points.
- Intersecting lines that have a curve/hump in them are not connected.
I left out the dash lighting portion on purpose. I would deal with it separately. Just get a good understanding of what the difference between dependent and independently wired LEDs. This website will help. OTRATTW If you go back a few pages on my build thread you will see a terminal board in the mess of wiring. I have also left out the terminal board as it is not required for the install. I just made it more organized for me.
There are 5 circuits here for 5 sets of lights. Only follow one to familiarize your self with it. They all operate on the same principles. For the switched ignition you can use an "add-a-circuit" or "add-a-fuse" and tap off the fuse block under the dash.
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Right now I have 30 amp fuses in there but it's a little much. I will be probably be taking them down to 20 or even 15 amps. With a 2x 55watt bulbs on 1 circuit it's still only 9.1amps with a normal load. (110watts/12volts=amps) The master switch is used to turn on all 3 sets of rear, left, and right facing lights at once. Diodes must be used here to avoid turning on all 3 if you only want 1 at a time. I also wired my back up lights to the my rear facing lights so when I put it in reverse the lights automatically turn on. You don't have to do the master switch and automatic reverse lights. It's a creature comfort thing.
Kurtis,
Love the roof rack and light system, hope you don't mind if I mimic your setup! I understand your diagram but the only missing part was what kind of diode did you use. I would like to use a Master switch as well to turn on the whole roof when needed. Thanks!















Well, let me know if you need help with the SAS! I have a small plasma and welders and stuff for that job.
For sure! I will probably have to call you on for some help. I've never done a SAS myself but I figure it's about time to learn. Only one way to get experience. I've got a lot of research and reading to do.
Well I did mine by myself in my garage over four days. It was a lot of work. Not difficult but tedious. The only thing I had trouble with was my caster angle and that was due to TG's stupid front spring hanger. If you go with that hanger, get the 3" kit. OR have Josh at BOR make you a low profile hanger. It'll just help keep the truck lower and your steering geometry within specs. Right now I have a 6° shims under my front springs to fix my pinion angle and caster.
I hope you don't mind that I stole one of those snow pictures for my new work desktop wallpaper :biggrin1:
I keep trying to get transfered to Colorado so I can go play in the snow with my 4runner, Not a lot of snow to play in here in Florida![]()
I like your style. Subscribed!
Couldn't one just flip the Toyota axle and cut/spin the knuckles?![]()
I'm speculating of course.
Never farted around with link suspension but it can't be that hard.
A Naval Base? Bah, I'm not sure I can speak to you Seaman. :heh:
I'm hoping to get sent to Schriever Air Force Base. I've heard good things about it, and my job has openings there.
A Naval Base? Bah, I'm not sure I can speak to you Seaman. :heh:
I'm hoping to get sent to Schriever Air Force Base. I've heard good things about it, and my job has openings there.
I've thought about it. I'd have to find someone to cut and weld the axle. I don't I could do it with out screwing up the camber and God knows what else. I'd also have to 3 link which I feel would be more difficult than a modified Radius arm HP44. Definitely a possibility though.
Oh no. Cheer force. :moon::moon:
Also, I wonder if you'll have to swap out oil pan and sump?
Yup, yup. Could just order that new MC full face armor and shock mount/knuckle support kit too
Also, I may have the tap for the fill/drain threads.....
It may be a while before the swap but I'll definitely keep you in the loop. I don't drink much anymore but I do have a mini fridge in the shop that you can pack full of your favorite beverage. MT. Dew is free in my shop. I drink way too much of it.:guitar3: