Kurtis T4R Build Thread

I've been getting lots of PMs about the wiring on the roof rack lights and how I did it. I over complicated the lights a little and used some extra things like diodes to have a few of the creature comforts on my switches. Here's the basic diagram of how my system should be set up. I still need to make some corrections to my circuits to make them more current with the changes I have made in the last 8 months (Different bulb wattage, etc.). I'm not an artist in paint so if you don't like it, you can eat my ass.



I recommend that you get familiar with electricity before you start a wiring project like this. Learn what watts, volts, ohms, and amps are and how the relate to each other. Learn what AC and DC is and what the difference. (No, not the band) There is a bunch of websites out there that will give you a basic understanding of electricity. I also recommend getting familiar with soldering. It's not difficult and relatively cheap. You will get a better connection with soldering than using butt connectors and they won't fall apart. Don't forget heat shrink tubing at the connection too.

Lets set some base rules for the diagram first.
  • Everything that is colored red is 12V DC.
  • Everything color black (except the boxes) is ground.
  • The upside down pyramid looks doohickies with 4 lines are ground points.
  • Intersecting lines that have a curve/hump in them are not connected.

I left out the dash lighting portion on purpose. I would deal with it separately. Just get a good understanding of what the difference between dependent and independently wired LEDs. This website will help. OTRATTW If you go back a few pages on my build thread you will see a terminal board in the mess of wiring. I have also left out the terminal board as it is not required for the install. I just made it more organized for me.

There are 5 circuits here for 5 sets of lights. Only follow one to familiarize your self with it. They all operate on the same principles. For the switched ignition you can use an "add-a-circuit" or "add-a-fuse" and tap off the fuse block under the dash.
1408-2028-51119.jpg~original


Right now I have 30 amp fuses in there but it's a little much. I will be probably be taking them down to 20 or even 15 amps. With a 2x 55watt bulbs on 1 circuit it's still only 9.1amps with a normal load. (110watts/12volts=amps) The master switch is used to turn on all 3 sets of rear, left, and right facing lights at once. Diodes must be used here to avoid turning on all 3 if you only want 1 at a time. I also wired my back up lights to the my rear facing lights so when I put it in reverse the lights automatically turn on. You don't have to do the master switch and automatic reverse lights. It's a creature comfort thing.

Kurtis,

Love the roof rack and light system, hope you don't mind if I mimic your setup! I understand your diagram but the only missing part was what kind of diode did you use. I would like to use a Master switch as well to turn on the whole roof when needed. Thanks!
 
Kurtis,

Love the roof rack and light system, hope you don't mind if I mimic your setup! I understand your diagram but the only missing part was what kind of diode did you use. I would like to use a Master switch as well to turn on the whole roof when needed. Thanks!

Thanks for the compliment. I don't remember what kind of diode I used. I just picked a couple up from Radio Crap. Excuse me, I mean Radio Shack. You don't need anything crazy. A lot of the stuff there is for 12V. Someone there normally has an idea about electronics.
 
A storm came in last night. We had a last minute snow run. Went up to Twin Lakes. I was supposed to meet some guys from a local forum but they ended up being late and we didn't know about it so the wife and I bailed and went up the mountain with out them. For the first few miles we had great traction with some sticky snow. Toward the top it all turned to sugar and became a pain in the ass. No one had been to the top since the storm except sleds. So many miles of me first awesomeness. It was a great day.


Stuck here trying to bash through a drift. Had to dig out. Nothing to anchor to. Was trying to make room for the snow machines since they were the only other people up there.







Bashing again on a really small part of the road. Only foot traffic and sleds made it through before I got there. Had to winch to make it the rest of the way through.




At the top.




Dude in yellow was amazed to see a rig up that far.


Finally met up with the guys I was supposed to meet. I guess we just missed each other at the bottom of the mountain by minutes. They caught up with us when we reached the top and we stopped to eat lunch.:becky::becky:


About to pull another Jeep out.




I think I have my final assessment of Pitbull Rockers: I don't think I will ever put a different tire on my wheeling rig as long as them make them.
 
Couple things going on. Been wheeling a lot lately. The wife and I had a long talk about where we are realistically going with the 4Runner. It looks like we will be SASing it. I will be doing it myself. If that means it comes out a total disaster then so be it. I'll learn something, I'm sure of it. I'd like to start it late next summer but I don't know if funds will allow. I pretty much stopped driving the '97 around town and I've been leaving it for the trail duty only. I stopped putting my endlinks back on after wheeling so they are for sale in the classifieds.

As you have read, I've been having clearance problems in the front. I rub on the firewall and the frame even with a partial tub on the firewall. Neither of those really bother me. If I was going to keep IFS I'd probably just do a full tub on the front. I don't know how Jon runs without a body lift. What I didn't like was every time I jumped the truck, or hit the bump stops the tires would mash the fenders. It started to bend the fenders. So I started cutting more fender parts off.



Looks like it's going to clear. I don't have anything around the house to get the IFS maxed out so I'll have to figure it out for sure next time I go wheeling. Pretty close to the bumps though.



I also used 1/4" nuts and bolts to keep the flares on. Seems pretty rigid.


Temporarily sealed the tube to the intake to keep water out. Maybe some day I'll get a snorkel.
 
Well, let me know if you need help with the SAS! I have a small plasma and welders and stuff for that job.

For sure! I will probably have to call you on for some help. I've never done a SAS myself but I figure it's about time to learn. Only one way to get experience. I've got a lot of research and reading to do.
 
For sure! I will probably have to call you on for some help. I've never done a SAS myself but I figure it's about time to learn. Only one way to get experience. I've got a lot of research and reading to do.

Well I did mine by myself in my garage over four days. It was a lot of work. Not difficult but tedious. The only thing I had trouble with was my caster angle and that was due to TG's stupid front spring hanger. If you go with that hanger, get the 3" kit. OR have Josh at BOR make you a low profile hanger. It'll just help keep the truck lower and your steering geometry within specs. Right now I have a 6° shims under my front springs to fix my pinion angle and caster.
 
I hope you don't mind that I stole one of those snow pictures for my new work desktop wallpaper :biggrin1:

I keep trying to get transfered to Colorado so I can go play in the snow with my 4runner, Not a lot of snow to play in here in Florida :(
 
Well I did mine by myself in my garage over four days. It was a lot of work. Not difficult but tedious. The only thing I had trouble with was my caster angle and that was due to TG's stupid front spring hanger. If you go with that hanger, get the 3" kit. OR have Josh at BOR make you a low profile hanger. It'll just help keep the truck lower and your steering geometry within specs. Right now I have a 6° shims under my front springs to fix my pinion angle and caster.

My plan is to skip leafs and go straight to either a 3 link or use a High Pinion Dana 44 and keep but extend the radius arms. [MENTION=47896]ADH8796[/MENTION] did this and feel it is the most logical way for what I need. Maybe in a few years I'll want to go full retard and stick tons under it but for now it's what I need. I do like the idea of using a Toyota axle but I'd have to do a lot of transfer case swapping since my front driveline drop is on the driver's side. I'm still up in the air about it, but leaning more toward a HP44.

I hope you don't mind that I stole one of those snow pictures for my new work desktop wallpaper :biggrin1:
I keep trying to get transfered to Colorado so I can go play in the snow with my 4runner, Not a lot of snow to play in here in Florida :(

I don't mind at all. I'm flattered. I love to snow wheel. Colorado has some awesome wheeling as well. I'd love to go there. Unfortunately there isn't many Naval Bases in Colorado. I'm really trying to stay in the PNW as long as I can. We will see what happens.

I like your style. Subscribed!

Thanks man.
 
Couldn't one just flip the Toyota axle and cut/spin the knuckles? :D

I'm speculating of course.

Never farted around with link suspension but it can't be that hard.
 
A Naval Base? Bah, I'm not sure I can speak to you Seaman. :heh:

I'm hoping to get sent to Schriever Air Force Base. I've heard good things about it, and my job has openings there.
 
Couldn't one just flip the Toyota axle and cut/spin the knuckles? :D

I'm speculating of course.

Never farted around with link suspension but it can't be that hard.

I've thought about it. I'd have to find someone to cut and weld the axle. I don't I could do it with out screwing up the camber and God knows what else. I'd also have to 3 link which I feel would be more difficult than a modified Radius arm HP44. Definitely a possibility though.

A Naval Base? Bah, I'm not sure I can speak to you Seaman. :heh:

I'm hoping to get sent to Schriever Air Force Base. I've heard good things about it, and my job has openings there.

Oh no. Cheer force. :moon::moon:
 
A Naval Base? Bah, I'm not sure I can speak to you Seaman. :heh:

I'm hoping to get sent to Schriever Air Force Base. I've heard good things about it, and my job has openings there.

Air Force? That's still a thing? :D


I've thought about it. I'd have to find someone to cut and weld the axle. I don't I could do it with out screwing up the camber and God knows what else. I'd also have to 3 link which I feel would be more difficult than a modified Radius arm HP44. Definitely a possibility though.



Oh no. Cheer force. :moon::moon:

I could easily modify that axle, just let me know :cool:
 
Also, I wonder if you'll have to swap out oil pan and sump?

Yup. I'd have to use a T100 oil pan. We would also need to make a custom diff cover since the axle would be up-side-down and the 3rd wouldn't. Also need to switch the breather and the drain plug. All pretty easy really.
 
Yup, yup. Could just order that new MC full face armor and shock mount/knuckle support kit too :D

Also, I may have the tap for the fill/drain threads.....
 
Yup, yup. Could just order that new MC full face armor and shock mount/knuckle support kit too :D

Also, I may have the tap for the fill/drain threads.....

It may be a while before the swap but I'll definitely keep you in the loop. I don't drink much anymore but I do have a mini fridge in the shop that you can pack full of your favorite beverage. MT. Dew is free in my shop. I drink way too much of it.:guitar3:
 
It may be a while before the swap but I'll definitely keep you in the loop. I don't drink much anymore but I do have a mini fridge in the shop that you can pack full of your favorite beverage. MT. Dew is free in my shop. I drink way too much of it.:guitar3:

I drink lots of coffee :D

No worries man, I like projects. I have about 5-10 projects at any given time lol



Also, Costco vodka and ruby red. :humble:
 

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