shadow247
New member
You need the 35mm length for 01-02 with the Ball Joint Protectors.
LBJ Uniball?
- Thread starter Devbot
- Start date
You need the 35mm length for 01-02 with the Ball Joint Protectors.
octanejunkie
Elite Member
Sorry, the world revolves around my 99, aka 3rd Gens 96-2000 since so much changed in 2001+
01-02 also take a captive washer'd bolt
99-00 takes an M10 x 1.25, 30mm bolt
The ARP fasteners s ship with 2.25mm thick washers that I did not use because they would have made the bolts too short...
Devbot
New member
Yes. You realize we're talking about a bolt right? I'm curious how it would be "hurting" anything
Also are you sure the LBJs will fit? I'm 99% sure Tundra LBJs don't fit our vehicles; fairly certain like Tacos their steering differs. Nor do I believe there's anything different with the ball joint itself between 4Runners, Tacos, Sequoias and Tundras - the ball joint doesn't get any beefier and it's not made with a stronger steel or anything, in the end I fail to see exactly what would be stronger about them. I could be wrong (and often am) cause I haven't looked into it whatsoever but it sounds like a hell of a headache for not much gain
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jross20
New member
I don't know, I was just wondering if maybe the bolt is designed to have a specific amount of stretch that matches the knuckle, maybe a stronger bolt would damage the threads on the knuckle? I know that's really reaching out far, but again this is the Achilles heel area.
As for the Tacoma ball joint, a long time ago I remember seeing people talking about using it. They said that it was bigger so therefore they were hoping that it was slightly stronger just from the little bit of the size increase. It bolted up but you have to switch the outer tie rod to the Tacoma one, and most likely you should run without the front sway bar. I think you just lost a wee bit of steering radius but that was all.
Maybe it's not worth it, if only I could see both parts side by side just to get an idea
octanejunkie
Elite Member
Anonymous Fabrication uses the same 7/8" uniball on the different LBJs
Stronger bolts/higher shear strength still probably aren't going to tear the threads out of a forged knuckle
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Stronger bolts/higher shear strength still probably aren't going to tear the threads out of a forged knuckle
Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk
Devbot
New member
If all goes well with my incoming Summit order it's looking like I may have something of a solution to boots... I may have found something that'll work well for the bottom stud. Will update soon
So far I took one of the crappy ones I advised against and stuffed it into the top of the joint, and it fits pretty well and gives pretty decent coverage. Could use a little bead of silicone to help hold it though. Really my only concern with this is it's about just as tall as the plastic caps, but being a soft material it should easily compress. (If anything a little bit of trimming could help too.) May have spoke too soon on these guys.
So far I took one of the crappy ones I advised against and stuffed it into the top of the joint, and it fits pretty well and gives pretty decent coverage. Could use a little bead of silicone to help hold it though. Really my only concern with this is it's about just as tall as the plastic caps, but being a soft material it should easily compress. (If anything a little bit of trimming could help too.) May have spoke too soon on these guys.
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octanejunkie
Elite Member
Looking forward to see.what you come up with
FWIW, the top caps Josh sent me seem.to be working fine after I sanded them down from 2.7/2.9 mm thick to around 1 mm thick. The dust shield on the CV contacts the cap but hasn't cut through or destroyed it, yet.
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Spiker Engineering
official vendor
I've been working up a concept for a bolt system for the LBJs using high strength bolts (probably 180 ksi) and a mechanical locking system that absolutely will prevent the bolts from ever backing out accidentally (and yet be very easy to remove with the special tool).
Does that seem like a worthwhile item?
Does that seem like a worthwhile item?
shadow247
New member
I'm interested, but not sure what benefit it brings over Blue Loctite. I have yet to see a bolt back out when it's properly torqued and loctite applied.
Spiker Engineering
official vendor
Yeah, that's why I'm asking. This system and loctite are apples and oranges though. It is direct from the aerospace industry and creates a positive lock that does not rely on adhesives (which are always a question mark), yet can be easily installed and removed without any special tools.
So there are definite advantages over loctite, but if loctite is good enough, then this may be a solution looking for a problem.
shadow247
New member
It all comes down to cost I suppose. I would be willing to shell out as much as 100 bucks for them, if they are strong as the ARP bolts that I'm using.
Devbot
New member
Just found a certain kind of boot that might work, nothing special really. Package should be arriving today hopefully though. I figured there was a way to make the top cap fit, but I'm a little more concerned about the ability to lube them up without disassembly - which, admittedly, skipped my mind completely when purchasing them
If the price is right I don't see why it wouldn't sell
Spiker Engineering
official vendor
I'm working up pricing right now.
Like most other things, it's a chicken and egg issue of cost/unit vs number of units I expect to sell. Getting these bolts and associated items in quantity will be much cheaper than buying just a few sets, but who wants to get stuck with thousands of dollars of unsold inventory?
Devbot
New member
Well crap, super close but no cigar. I tried using these boots but they're a HAIR too small - hell, even if they were more pliable they would probably work great, but they're not nearly as stretchy as I assumed (by that I mean they don't stretch whatsoever). Even 2-3mm wider would be great; the height is perfect and fits into a control arm well, the boot just happens to be the EXACT width of the cup. Damn shame because these were super close to working. I'll keep looking around though, I'm pretty sure I saw a larger version of these.
Wouldn't hurt to take a poll across the various forums, the discussion that will come out of them will be more beneficial than any amount of speculation will be (and potentially get the word out there too). I think it sounds like a great idea but I've never had an LBJ failure, and ultimately I think those who have had them will have opinions worth much more than from someone like me. Loctite may sound like a way to nip it in the bud but there might be (/probably is) someone out there who has used it and still suffered from a failure that would happily say otherwise
In the end I think it's an idea that deserves a little asking around
Wouldn't hurt to take a poll across the various forums, the discussion that will come out of them will be more beneficial than any amount of speculation will be (and potentially get the word out there too). I think it sounds like a great idea but I've never had an LBJ failure, and ultimately I think those who have had them will have opinions worth much more than from someone like me. Loctite may sound like a way to nip it in the bud but there might be (/probably is) someone out there who has used it and still suffered from a failure that would happily say otherwise
In the end I think it's an idea that deserves a little asking around
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Spiker Engineering
official vendor
Thanks - unfortunately the pricing is not coming in as I hoped. We're looking at about $10-20 per bolt, and that's when ordering 10,000 of them. So back to the drawing board :shrug:.
theesotericone
New member
From my experience. No.
M10 1.25 x 30 10.9 hex head flange bolts are plenty strong enough. Red loctite takes care of them ever backing out. So for about $15 anyone with access to a hardware store or Amazon can solve the OEM sheared bolt issues.
Prior to using the 10.9s I sheared a lot of OEM bolts. Since going to 10.9s I've sheared none. My wheeling hasn't changed.
Spiker Engineering
official vendor
Good feedback, appreciate it :thumb:
jross20
New member
Though did you confirm which oem bolts you were using? It looks like there's three, two of which have been tested where is the other one is presumed to be similar to one of the other one. Basically the pre-2001 bolt is much stronger than the ones that came after with the dust cover
theesotericone
New member
I've snapped the washer style bolts and the flange style bolts. Where did you hear that one was "much" stronger then the other? If you have any actual data to post please do. Then we can compare that to the known data for 10.9's. I have never been able to find out what grade the OEM bolts are. My best guess would be 8.8.
Metric grade numbers are very easy. The first number is the tensile strength of the bolt in Newton/mm2. So a 8.8 is 800 N/mm2. A 10.9 is 1000 N/mm2. Pretty easy to understand one is 25 stronger then the other in tensile applications.
ReconcileUs
New member
Do you have the source, or the bolt specifications?
Edit: Nevermind, just realized this was answered.
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