LED LIGHT BAR INSTALL on a 2014 T4R

Thanks for the kudo's, I'm glad the write-up helped!

So, you want to trigger your switch for your LED Light Bar from something that has power all the time your ignition switch is on instead of using your HB to trigger....
You will have to find a circuit to tap the trigger wire to for that to happen.

It is not hardly you will forget your switch on that powers your LED Light Bar, so you could actually run that trigger wire to the battery or another circuit that has power all the time and that will solve your request!


Hope this helps!

Thanks for the quick response. I'll do some tapping and worse case I'll put it to the battery.
 
Saker,
Thanks again for the quick reply, turns out, I had the wiring right, but I had used those crappy clip on splicers and they weren't making a good connection 2 days later. Soldered everything up and now I've got power and illumination.

Thanks again!

This thread helped me a lot as I'm a newb with wiring. Below is a slight mod to how I wired using Saker's diagram above. (took illumination + power from nearby switch). So far, this works great. . . I never plan on using that De-Icer switch in FL so your mileage may vary if you use a switch you are tapping from for power.

DISCLAIMER: my edits / wiring worked for me. Read through this thread and test your wires with a meter before hooking anything up, your wire colors may be different than mine.

My bastard-ization of Sakers great diagram below:
20u1v1z.png


De-icer switch and new AOB switch :-)
2cdk9bl.jpg


and final product on the truck :-)
2nrft03.jpg

[MENTION=135273]Ride5C2[/MENTION],

Question....

With your switch grounded to the ground bolt, does your switch dim when you dim your dash lights?
Mine would not dim when I had mine grounded like that.

When I connected it as my diagram illustrates, it dimmed with the rest of the dash lights.

Just asking!
 
If I tap into the existing windshield de-icer for 12V and illumination will it effect that switch or switches? If I have both switches are on at the same time will it blow the switches or ECU? Also, If I ground the switch to earth, will the switch Dim? I'm trying to wire my Aiden James Customs DLR's. Thanks
 
If I tap into the existing windshield de-icer for 12V and illumination will it effect that switch or switches? If I have both switches are on at the same time will it blow the switches or ECU? Also, If I ground the switch to earth, will the switch Dim? I'm trying to wire my Aiden James Customs DLR's. Thanks

First off, without knowing if you are using relays or not, it is impossible to give the answer to your first & second questions.
If you ground to earth, more than likely, your switches will not dim. See diagram above for dimming ground...I think its the grey wire on the switch on mine.

Disclaimer: I am not an electrician and take no responsibility if you use my diagram.
 
So following your advice I decided to tackle this project.

I am installing a OPT-7 C2 32" LED light bar. Amazon warehouse deal for $140

Knowing that the bumper enforcement was made of aluminum, made the process easier.

I removed the front end, only way to get the light installed. I used a 2" wide and 5" tall L bracket from Lowes to install the light. Luckily there are several holes in the bumper that I used to screw on the bolt in the bumper reinforcement.

Will use the provideded wire harness and switch until I can get some AOB switches in blue.

Don't really know what caused those marks on the bumper reinforcement. It was there when I removed the styrofoam bumper piece.
 

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Here's another photo

Thanks saker
 

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Yes, I have a 16limited. Ian going to use the lowest part of the grill. It is actually raised about 1/2" off the bumper reinforcement.

Some finished pics.
 

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Installed in the lower grill. Won't know till tonight on how well it'll light up the road. Definitely need to adjust it tonight.

Does anyone know how to remove the lower grill?

I tried removing the 4 white clip and there are 4 screws underneath another cover. Do I need to remove the bumper cover and fog light?

Need to take off the front anyway, forget to reinstall the styrofoam bumper piece.
 

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Night shots

2nd shot is without HID light.

3rd light is with HID lights

Still need to adjust the beam a little better.

Light output is really bright.

if I could get rid of the lower grill , I would really open up the light beam.

Anyone know how to remove lower grill valance on a 2016 LE?
 

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Covers

What's everyone doing for covers for their LED bars behind the grill. The police up here are giving out tickets for uncovered bars even if they are behind the grill.
 
Installed in the lower grill. Won't know till tonight on how well it'll light up the road. Definitely need to adjust it tonight.

Does anyone know how to remove the lower grill?

I tried removing the 4 white clip and there are 4 screws underneath another cover. Do I need to remove the bumper cover and fog light?

Need to take off the front anyway, forget to reinstall the styrofoam bumper piece.

What's everyone doing for covers for their LED bars behind the grill. The police up here are giving out tickets for uncovered bars even if they are behind the grill.

I don't think police give out tickets for uncovered bar light here.

They should give out ticket to people who turn on their bar lights during the day to use as DRLs.
 
electrical problem

I installed my light bar following all of the good advice in this thread and all was well for the first few weeks. I used a relay, installed an air on board switch tapping into the wiper heater switch and tapping into the high beam wire as the trigger.

Today, I am experiencing major electrical problems in my 2014TE. Heater fan doesn't work, power windows and sun roof do not work, check engine light is on, outside thermometer reads E for the temperature and track light is on.

I have checked all of my fuses under the hood and under the dash.

Is my ecu pooched?
 
I installed my light bar following all of the good advice in this thread and all was well for the first few weeks. I used a relay, installed an air on board switch tapping into the wiper heater switch and tapping into the high beam wire as the trigger.

Today, I am experiencing major electrical problems in my 2014TE. Heater fan doesn't work, power windows and sun roof do not work, check engine light is on, outside thermometer reads E for the temperature and track light is on.

I have checked all of my fuses under the hood and under the dash.

Is my ecu pooched?

I don't think you are asking your question in the correct thread.

If you think your install caused this issue, I think you are mistaken, as long as you followed good practices and didn't tap into anything that would cause the mentioned issues. It was working for 3 weeks, don't you think if it was the install, if you think caused this, wouldn't it show up sooner?
I don't believe your install, itself, caused any of this.
No-one that did an install like this, including myself, has ever had any issues other than maybe a switch not dimming because it wasn't grounded to the proper wire.

You need to look at what else has changed since you did said install.
Have you been pulling wires under the dash, did you inadvertently unplug something when you did the install?

First, re-trace everything you did on the install.
See if you connected to what you were supposed to connect to.
If all that is good, without exception, then do the following.
Disconnect power to light bar.
Disconnect all wires you tapped into.
Is you issue still there?

Remove all signs of switches/wires tapped and take it in for a check-up...under warranty.
 
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Saker, thanks very much for your response. Folks like you are really what makes this group great.

I took each and every fuse out and checked it with an ohmmeter. Although I had removed each and every one and inspected them visually. Turns out that one 10 amp fuse to the icu ign 2 was toast. You had to look very hard to see it. Now everything is back up and running. Not sure what caused it. It might have had something to do with flashing my lights including the light bar with the ignition off. I did turn the headlights off by locking the 4runner that night as well.

Thanks again!
 
Saker, thanks very much for your response. Folks like you are really what makes this group great.

I took each and every fuse out and checked it with an ohmmeter. Although I had removed each and every one and inspected them visually. Turns out that one 10 amp fuse to the icu ign 2 was toast. You had to look very hard to see it. Now everything is back up and running. Not sure what caused it. It might have had something to do with flashing my lights including the light bar with the ignition off. I did turn the headlights off by locking the 4runner that night as well.

Thanks again!

[MENTION=101824]Peck[/MENTION],

Thanks for the kudo's.
Also, it was not my intent to sound abrupt in my response. I was busy and tried to get to the point as quickly as possible, and get back to other things.
I am glad you found what the culprit was.
I don't think what you have described actually caused this fuse to blow, as I have done the same as well.
As far as locking the doors remotely with the headlights on, I do that quite regularly.
You may have just had a defective or compromised fuse.
Keep an eye on it, see if it re-occurs.

Hope this helps! :hatsoff:
 
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Looks great. The switch you used do you know if that will fit a 2015 knock outs? If so may I asked where you order it? Purchased a switch from Amazon and eBay neither with properly for a 2015 to tall and narrow.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Just got my AOB switch, and the 4 wires coming out of it are noticeably thinner than the 3 wires coming in from my light bars harness.

Is this normal?
 

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