LED turn signal hipper flash
- Thread starter cd121082
- Start date
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bittwiddler
New member
Yeah, I installed them and the picture wouldn't nearly be as useful as what Ducmonsta attached there. Nothing special to it
bittwiddler
New member
I can send a pic later. I just attached it relatively near the actual blinker so it was obvious which wires were needed
Ducmonsta
New member
You're going to have to do both sides. I don't recall if the positive wires are the same on both sides. Hopefully you have a test light or a meter. It'll be easy from there. If you don't have one, its worth the investment especially if you ever plan to do ANYTHING electrical on your truck.
Intruder
New member
And four resistors if you're doing all four signals. I only did the front two in the ARB signal housings and got resistors from superbrightleds.com that have vampire taps. Just put the wires in and squeeze with a pair of pliers. Takes about 5 minutes to install both.
https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/flashers-load-resistors/marker-lamp-load-resistor/191/832/
bimrunner
New member
I did same. Passenger side is blue for power and white with black line/dots is ground. Driver side is green power and white with black is ground. Took a min or two to put the resistors in.
wonder if its the same for the rear lights. i will have to check.
bimrunner
New member
Yeah. I put in the front harness because there are fewer wires. lol.
FactoryT4R
New member
Bringing this back bc it may help someone. I recently installed VLED Triton signal bulbs all around on my 2013. I have the TYC LED tail lights installed in the rear.
I installed the rear LED flasher bulbs first and used 1 3ohm 50w resistors on each tail light, I never checked to see if they hyper flashed without them, but they operate fine.
Installed the front driver and the VLED's would not fire. I swapped the regular bulbs in to see if everything was getting power and they were. I contacted VLED's and they mentioned that toyota likes to swap the + and - contacts in the ballasts and doing so messes with the polarization for LED's.
They said I could either swap the wires in the ballast or I can buy a connector that is already swapped and is plug and play... I opted for the plug&play in case I ever wanted to switch back without any hassle.
I connected the first driver front flasher with everything, including the resistor... everything worked fine. I connected the passenger VLED to the power just to make sure everything fired before I started disconnecting everything and it functioned correctly without the resistor... hmmm
Started the truck, used the passenger flasher and left it on for 5 mins... works fine.. so I installed without the resistor. Drove that day about 5 mins and the 3m tape that I mounted the front driver resistor with was giving off a horrible plastic smell bc the DRL's are the flashers and that resistor was getting super hot. turned the DRL's off and drove home.
Removed the front driver resistor from the system completely and tested for 5 mins.. no issue. So basically I only had to install the 2 resistors in the rear with the TYC lights (not sure if it makes a difference).
I know that some factory flashers have to accommodate the side mirror led bulbs like our MDX. I bought a flasher module from diode dynamics for the MDX and it still hyper flashed after installing the VLED tritons initially.. I called them and they said it only handles 2 LED bulbs... I said who the heck only wants 2 bulbs when there are 4? So they said they could build one (beta) that handles 4. I installed and everything has been fine for years.
My point is, maybe the T4R's built in relay can handle 4 led's (two mirror bulbs and 2 additional). Since there are 6 total, then 2 resistors are needed. Dunno, but mine are working correctly.
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