LED turn signals

[4REIGN3R]

I too got them installed, unfortunately they do not ship to Canada so I went to LA to pick them up when I was on vacation.

Side by side comparison to incandescent.

 

[ElectroBoy]

I too got them installed, unfortunately they do not ship to Canada so I went to LA to pick them up when I was on vacation.

Side by side comparison to incandescent.

Oh yeah. They light up instantly and are so bright that I wonder if there is a vehicle lighting equipment law being violated.

BTW, what’s up with companies not shipping to Canada? Don’t they just have to charge you more money to cover the duties and taxes?

 

[4REIGN3R]

Oh yeah. They light up instantly and are so bright that I wonder if there is a vehicle lighting equipment law being violated.

BTW, what’s up with companies not shipping to Canada? Don’t they just have to charge you more money to cover the duties and taxes?

You'd assume that it was pretty simple to ship something as small as the lights within North America. Maybe just a hassle to deal with shipping because of the duties?

 

[mrblah]

Oh yeah. They light up instantly and are so bright that I wonder if there is a vehicle lighting equipment law being violated.

total understatement of the year, I love how everything is reflected in the rear view mirror as amber.

When my friends saw them, the first thing he said was "that can't be legal"...lol

 

[ElectroBoy]

You'd assume that it was pretty simple to ship something as small as the lights within North America. Maybe just a hassle to deal with shipping because of the duties?

USPS Priority Mail International seems to be the way to go for USA to Canada for shipping flat rate. Under $30 for small items. Check it out. Maybe suggest this method to reluctant US vendors.

Priority Mail International - Features & Rates | USPS

 

[jawkdna]

Just ordered, thanks to this thread.
I've been wanting these for a while and this thread pushed me over the edge.

Front Switchback style:
7443 7444 CANBUS Error Free Dual Color Switchback LED Turn Signal Light - Lasfit Auto Lighting

Rears:
7440 W21W CAN-BUS Anti Hyper Flash LED Turn Signal Lights, Amber Yellow - Lasfit Auto Lighting

and I used the 10% coupon code:
blue_trd_jon1

I tried the 15% one (15SUBTLED) that someone mentioned earlier but it didn't work on my cart.

 

[Signal]

I used these form my rear

7440 7441 CAN-BUS Anti Hyper Flash LED Turn Signal Lights, Amber Yellow - Lasfit Auto Lighting

And these for my fronts

7443 7444 CANBUS Error Free Dual Color Switchback LED Turn Signal Light - Lasfit Auto Lighting

They are super bright, but they work with no hyper flash, no bulb out warnings and no need to tap any wires with resistors. They can be found cheaper on Amazon and Ebay

I highly recommend them

I am looking to do these what exactly am I looking for on Amazon?

 

[mrblah]

I am looking to do these what exactly am I looking for on Amazon?

ask and you shall receive!!!

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CMSD8CS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

[4Regrets]

Just ordered the Lasfit front blinkers (all amber, not white/amber), rear blinkers and reverse lights. I waffled on the all amber versus amber/white fronts for a bit, but given that all of my other front illumination is halogen, I thought the 6000K white would stand out too much.

I figured that if I'm going to get into the tail light housing, I might as well get two birds stoned at once and do the reverse lights too.

This should be a nice compliment to the H9 and 9011 headlight upgrade.

 

[tristero]

I'm running 7443 Lasfit in the 2014+ housing from the 2010-2013 DRL/turn wiring, 90075-60028 socket, and I'm overheating in DRL. They seem fine if just used as turns.

I also burned the sockets and sylvania halogen bulbs running the DRL function...

Would adding in load resistors help? Any other ideas?

pic for reference:

 

[BigCountryT4R]

I'm running 7443 Lasfit in the 2014+ housing from the 2010-2013 DRL/turn wiring, 90075-60028 socket, and I'm overheating in DRL. They seem fine if just used as turns.

I also burned the sockets and sylvania halogen bulbs running the DRL function...

Would adding in load resistors help? Any other ideas?

pic for reference:

I've been running the lastfit in my blinkers front and rear for a few weeks now with zero issues. I still need to find a good DRL replacement and just haven't decided on what as I don't want flickering and I want it to dim.

 

[tristero]

I've been running the lastfit in my blinkers front and rear for a few weeks now with zero issues. I still need to find a good DRL replacement and just haven't decided on what as I don't want flickering and I want it to dim.

Not sure why you quoted me. They work fine in 2014+

I'm running 7443 Lasfit in the 2014+ housing from the 2010-2013 DRL/turn wiring, 90075-60028 socket, and I'm overheating in DRL. They seem fine if just used as turns.

I also burned the sockets and sylvania halogen bulbs running the DRL function...

Would adding in load resistors help? Any other ideas?

Anyone else have any suggestions?

 

[ElectroBoy]

I'm running 7443 Lasfit in the 2014+ housing from the 2010-2013 DRL/turn wiring, 90075-60028 socket, and I'm overheating in DRL. They seem fine if just used as turns.

I also burned the sockets and sylvania halogen bulbs running the DRL function...

Would adding in load resistors help? Any other ideas?

pic for reference:

1. I don’t understand your DRL setup. Doesn’t your rig use the high beam bulb as the OEM DRL function? Did you change something? If you did, see below.

2. You cannot run these particular Lasfit LEDs constantly On. They are designed for occasional use as turn signals. They take a lot of current and are very bright. They incorporate “CANBUS” resistors across the 12v lines which prevent the hyperflash, but the whole bulb gets really hot after a while, even with their best effort to heat sink the bulb. They apparently incorporate a thermal fuse which opens up the resistor path when they get too hot and they go into a hyperflash mode. I notice this with mine if I put the emergency flashers On for several minutes.

From the Lasfit website:

“Since these bulbs built-in Intelligent Temperature Control, if you use for a long time (a few vehicles maybe 2-5 minutes, it depends on year/make/model and temperature) may happen hyper flash, please turn off and cool 1-2 minutes, they will work properly again.”

3. If your setup is getting too hot you are doing something wrong. Wrong bulb for the application.

 

[LRT]

So for the fronts, everyone is ordering the plain amber and not the switchbacks?

Glad to know as I would’ve ordered the switchbacks instead of plain amber.

1. I don’t understand your DRL setup. Doesn’t your rig use the high beam bulb as the OEM DRL function? Did you change something? If you did, see below.

2. You cannot run these particular Lasfit LEDs constantly On. They are designed for occasional use as turn signals. They take a lot of current and are very bright. They incorporate “CANBUS” resistors across the 12v lines which prevent the hyperflash, but the whole bulb gets really hot after a while, even with their best effort to heat sink the bulb. They apparently incorporate a thermal fuse which opens up the resistor path when they get too hot and they go into a hyperflash mode. I notice this with mine if I put the emergency flashers On for several minutes.

From the Lasfit website:

“Since these bulbs built-in Intelligent Temperature Control, if you use for a long time (a few vehicles maybe 2-5 minutes, it depends on year/make/model and temperature) may happen hyper flash, please turn off and cool 1-2 minutes, they will work properly again.”

3. If your setup is getting too hot you are doing something wrong. Wrong bulb for the application.

 

[GX4SEVEND]

I’m running the lasfit as well with zero issues. Only the turn signal bulbs not the DRL. No hyper flash and I run them all the time because I have them hookup up to the “raptor lights” so they’re always on and then ridiculously bright when you hit the turn signal.

Using the DDM Saber led lights for the DRL. Super bright as well. No flicker until you take a video of it or try to snap a pic then you can see them pulsing. The naked eye can’t see it.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[ElectroBoy]

Socket problem?

I'm running 7443 Lasfit in the 2014+ housing from the 2010-2013 DRL/turn wiring, 90075-60028 socket, and I'm overheating in DRL. They seem fine if just used as turns.

I also burned the sockets and sylvania halogen bulbs running the DRL function...

Would adding in load resistors help? Any other ideas?

pic for reference:

Looking at your post again. If I understand this correctly you updated your 2010 SR5 with the headlight assembly from a 2014 model. If several different bulbs are overheating in your setup and burning or charring the socket, maybe you have a bad socket. Perhaps the bulb doesn’t fit in the socket correctly, and socket electrical contacts don’t grip the bulb contacts properly and it acts like a high resistance and overheats.

In fact, looking on the Olathe Toyota site, the front turn signal socket part number you listed (90075-60028) does not seem to be correct for the 2014 4R model or even the 2010 model. (That part number is meant for a Scion, Prius, or Tacoma). The site lists the part number for the 2014 4R to be 90075-60083. Not sure what the physical difference would be, maybe the gasket or how it threads and seats itself into the housing, providing some way to dissipate heat. Or maybe the contacts are positioned differently. Something to check into. Let us know how you resolve this, good luck.

Socket - Toyota (90075-60028) | Toyota Parts


Socket - Toyota (90075-60083) | Toyota Parts

 

[tristero]

1. I don’t understand your DRL setup. Doesn’t your rig use the high beam bulb as the OEM DRL function? Did you change something? If you did, see below.

2. You cannot run these particular Lasfit LEDs constantly On. They are designed for occasional use as turn signals. They take a lot of current and are very bright. They incorporate “CANBUS” resistors across the 12v lines which prevent the hyperflash, but the whole bulb gets really hot after a while, even with their best effort to heat sink the bulb. They apparently incorporate a thermal fuse which opens up the resistor path when they get too hot and they go into a hyperflash mode. I notice this with mine if I put the emergency flashers On for several minutes.

From the Lasfit website:

“Since these bulbs built-in Intelligent Temperature Control, if you use for a long time (a few vehicles maybe 2-5 minutes, it depends on year/make/model and temperature) may happen hyper flash, please turn off and cool 1-2 minutes, they will work properly again.”

3. If your setup is getting too hot you are doing something wrong. Wrong bulb for the application.

Man that sucks. I never saw that on the Lasfit website, and they still haven't mentioned it after several contacts explaining the bulb needed and purpose even before I ordered. They're supposed to be sending new 7443NA in case there was an issue with the ones I received.

Looking at your post again. If I understand this correctly you updated your 2010 SR5 with the headlight assembly from a 2014 model. If several different bulbs are overheating in your setup and burning or charring the socket, maybe you have a bad socket. Perhaps the bulb doesn’t fit in the socket correctly, and socket electrical contacts don’t grip the bulb contacts properly and it acts like a high resistance and overheats.

In fact, looking on the Olathe Toyota site, the front turn signal socket part number you listed (90075-60028) does not seem to be correct for the 2014 4R model or even the 2010 model. (That part number is meant for a Scion, Prius, or Tacoma). The site lists the part number for the 2014 4R to be 90075-60083. Not sure what the physical difference would be, maybe the gasket or how it threads and seats itself into the housing, providing some way to dissipate heat. Or maybe the contacts are positioned differently. Something to check into. Let us know how you resolve this, good luck.

Socket - Toyota (90075-60028) | Toyota Parts


Socket - Toyota (90075-60083) | Toyota Parts

The 90075-60083 socket does not fit the 2010-2013 harness

The 2010-2013 DRL/Turn utilizes the 1156NA

Essentially I just followed the guide from [MENTION=119582]Jeffy[/MENTION] here: 2014+ Facelift (headlight swap) - Toyota 120 Platforms Forum

 

[Jeffy]

Man that sucks. I never saw that on the Lasfit website, and they still haven't mentioned it after several contacts explaining the bulb needed and purpose even before I ordered. They're supposed to be sending new 7443NA in case there was an issue with the ones I received.



The 90075-60083 socket does not fit the 2010-2013 harness

The 2010-2013 DRL/Turn utilizes the 1156NA

Essentially I just followed the guide from [MENTION=119582]Jeffy[/MENTION] here: 2014+ Facelift (headlight swap) - Toyota 120 Platforms Forum

Just use normal LED bulbs (nothing fancy, no canbus stuff) and put a resistor in the rear turn signals.

If your rear bulbs are also LED, you'll need to either put two resistors per side, or one resistor with twice the resistance. But this way the resistors aren't constantly on with the front DRL bulb.

 

[ElectroBoy]

Man that sucks. I never saw that on the Lasfit website, and they still haven't mentioned it after several contacts explaining the bulb needed and purpose even before I ordered. They're supposed to be sending new 7443NA in case there was an issue with the ones I received.



The 90075-60083 socket does not fit the 2010-2013 harness

The 2010-2013 DRL/Turn utilizes the 1156NA

Essentially I just followed the guide from [MENTION=119582]Jeffy[/MENTION] here: 2014+ Facelift (headlight swap) - Toyota 120 Platforms Forum

OK. I think this may be the problem. According to the thread you followed the 90075-60083 socket was used and modified:
“ The reason for this is the socket I used is not for a 4Runner. The 2014+ 4Runners use a 3-prong socket, and the previous models use a 2-prong socket. Rather than try to mess with re-wiring a perfectly good harness, I chose to just get a 2-prong socket and slightly modify it to fit.“

The 2014+ 4Runners use a 3-prong socket because they use a 7443 dual filament bulb. The low wattage filament is On when the stalk is switched to Park or headlights On. The high wattage filament is On when the turn signal switch is On (blinker relay controlled).

I suspect that since the mod is for a 2-wire system it was wired to use the high wattage filament prongs on the socket. I”m guessing that the way it works for you is that the bulb is On bright all the time (“DRL” mode). And when the turn signals blink the bulb output is bright-off-bright etc. If this is the case then you are running this Lasfit bulb constantly and it will get too hot for the socket.


As [MENTION=119582]Jeffy[/MENTION] recommended, try lower power LEDs that can run constantly. If you need to add resistors to prevent hyperflash, use high wattage ones and mount them on a metal surface. They will get quite warm if powered On all the time. Or go back to a standard 7443 incandescent bulb.

 

[BigCountryT4R]

Not sure why you quoted me. They work fine in 2014+



Anyone else have any suggestions?

Because you posted about Lastfit and I have them as well.