Let's talk Long Travel

[A.Wilson013]

I am unfamiliar with their zeta shocks, which is my own fault - however I can't believe someone that would say they are better than Kings that are hand built with the most premium of premium components.

It's not junk, like radflo is - but i have a bad taste in my mouth from them and they're not in the same league as king or fox. I also don't like that every Icon kit comes with an Affliction t-shirt and a set of white oakley's

Their zeta shocks are pretty nasty... Way over my price range, however.

I think it's strange that after such a failure they'd still run their equipment. If I had a failure like that I'd abandon ship pretty quick. I wonder what that's about... Other than money, of course.

I paid good money for my white Oakley gas cans, bedazzled affliction tee, and bedazzled mavi jeans. Don't hate.

 

[SouthernSS]

It's not junk, like radflo is - but i have a bad taste in my mouth from them and they're not in the same league as king or fox. I also don't like that every Icon kit comes with an Affliction t-shirt and a set of white oakley's

Curious why you say this? I'm actually running the TC 2" long travel setup on my GX470 with all 2.5" Radflo components and secondary shock hoops with their double bypass. Its simply phenomenal and have been running it for nearly a year now with no issues whatsoever.

 

[LawnDart]

Their zeta shocks are pretty nasty... Way over my price range, however.

I think it's strange that after such a failure they'd still run their equipment. If I had a failure like that I'd abandon ship pretty quick. I wonder what that's about... Other than money, of course.

I paid good money for my white Oakley gas cans, bedazzled affliction tee, and bedazzled mavi jeans. Don't hate.

I saw a pair of King bypass shocks blow apart on a video shoot, and not even doing anything intense. Anything mechanical will eventually fail.

From what I recall after the fact the suspension on that Cruiser was early in IVD's run, and that LC is incredibly heavy to begin with. It failed, and was replaced and has since not had an issue.

Since then XO did the 4Runners with Stage 7 IVD kits, and didn't have any problems we've been made aware of.

 

[wfo9]

I think he meant stock fenders

Ok, but I think it is actually possible with stock fender as long as you set the bump stops up properly... With 33s you probably don't even have to do that. [MENTION=76550]cbielat[/MENTION] seems to have stock looking fenders.

 

[A.Wilson013]

Ok, but I think it is actually possible with stock fender as long as you set the bump stops up properly... With 33s you probably don't even have to do that. [MENTION=76550]cbielat[/MENTION] seems to have stock looking fenders.

What's the point of LT if you're bumping it so early on the up travel? Ya know?

 

[BLACK-FL4RUNNER]

Losing some up travel isn't a bad thing, depending on the wheeling you do.
It can stop you from dragging that rear bumper so much, for example.

 

[cbielat]

Right now I'm running the stock fenders with no cutting. The tire size is a 285/70/17. There's a small gap at almost full compression. My kit included a bump stop spacer but I have been looking at some real bump stops to replace these. Still need to put the cam tabs on but haven't had any issues without them yet. I will be cutting the fenders when the 35s go on. Been talking to one of my body guys about it. Here's some photos for those who haven't viewed my build thread.

 

[marshal]

Curious why you say this? I'm actually running the TC 2" long travel setup on my GX470 with all 2.5" Radflo components and secondary shock hoops with their double bypass. Its simply phenomenal and have been running it for nearly a year now with no issues whatsoever.

stop giving your randflo's a bath all the time and watch them turn to rust. Radflo's are cheaper than Kings, foxes and bilsteins for a reason. they're made well, but the components they use are sub par comparatively. Radflo's durability is similar to a bilstein 5100, which while reliable - is not race reliable; and my bilsteins were 150 bucks a piece.

I saw a pair of King bypass shocks blow apart on a video shoot, and not even doing anything intense. Anything mechanical will eventually fail.

From what I recall after the fact the suspension on that Cruiser was early in IVD's run, and that LC is incredibly heavy to begin with. It failed, and was replaced and has since not had an issue.

Since then XO did the 4Runners with Stage 7 IVD kits, and didn't have any problems we've been made aware of.

i think saying the land cruiser was heavy is a bit unfair. while it is heavy, its not the front axle of a 1 ton diesel truck heavy. i think Clay said loaded up with the trailer the 100 weighed in at around 10,000lbs. it was also a 2.5 shock with a 5/8ths shaft.

an 8500b crew cab diesel super duty has 75% of its weight sitting on the front axle alone

Right now I'm running the stock fenders with no cutting. The tire size is a 285/70/17. There's a small gap at almost full compression. My kit included a bump stop spacer but I have been looking at some real bump stops to replace these. Still need to put the cam tabs on but haven't had any issues without them yet. I will be cutting the fenders when the 35s go on. Been talking to one of my body guys about it. Here's some photos for those who haven't viewed my build thread.

how are you and your body guy planning on doing it? similar to mine?

 

[cbielat]

[MENTION=104049]marshal[/MENTION] Probably. However it needs to be when we tackle it.

 

[marshal]

[MENTION=104049]marshal[/MENTION] Probably. However it needs to be when we tackle it.

FYI, its impossible to mate the factory bumper/facia with a fender roll - so add that to your list of expenses.

i would strongly urge you to use 285/75s. i enjoy my fenders, but more times that not wish i would have asked the body shop when they were rebuilding mine, to return everything to stock.

 

[cbielat]

FYI, its impossible to mate the factory bumper/facia with a fender roll - so add that to your list of expenses.

i would strongly urge you to use 285/75s. i enjoy my fenders, but more times that not wish i would have asked the body shop when they were rebuilding mine, to return everything to stock.

My bumper is on its way so I'll have that to work with too. At this point, I'm not worried if things are a bit off. It's not a street queen.

 

[LawnDart]

Whoa chill out there I didn't call it fat. Take that social justice warrior shit back to TUMBLR you third wave feminist.

However that is a fairly heavy setup and they drove it pretty long and hard. One component broke on a new system. I've heard of no issues with their other vehicles. So this may just be the case of this one instance getting more play than any other suspension system.

All I can attest to is that any piece of gear can break. I would agree I do like the king shocks despite seeing one absolutely shit the bed on a shoot.

i think saying the land cruiser was heavy is a bit unfair. while it is heavy, its not the front axle of a 1 ton diesel truck heavy. i think Clay said loaded up with the trailer the 100 weighed in at around 10,000lbs. it was also a 2.5 shock with a 5/8ths shaft.

an 8500b crew cab diesel super duty has 75% of its weight sitting on the front axle alone

 

[wfo9]

What's the point of LT if you're bumping it so early on the up travel? Ya know?

The point is
1. More down travel (which is really what matters most in trail conditions)
2. Wider stance/track and therefore more overall stability
3. More ride height lift possible without increased CV angles

With An IFS LT setup you gain both up and down travel with the same shock travel... I personally just want the down travel gain and don't have a problem giving up all of the added up travel to keep the body and fender out of harms way.

What I really want to get is all the measurements.. to see what the actual gains are and if the juice is worth the squeeze.

 

[wfo9]

Did a bit more research and here is my concussion....

Stock the front gets almost 8" of travel. (all these numbers are obviously with no swaybar or KDSS...)

Extended travel shocks like ICONs...+ uniball UCAs will get to 9.5" maybe 10, some have claimed 10.5" with aftermarket LCA like TC.

2" LT from TC claims 12", but the consensus seems to be ~11.5". Allpro 2" may actually get 12" (unclear at this point).

The 3.5 kits (TC and Camburg) both claim 13" and 14" for 2wd, but it seems most people agree 12" is the absolute max with CVs /4wd hooked up.

The drop increase should pretty much = total increase/2.

Final Conclusion, the juice is not worth the squeeze at this point. I'll probably be spending the money on other fun stuff and spend some time shoring up small issues.

 

[Jono.ful]

IMHO you guys need to get over your hangups on sway bars. I've had my front and rear completely off for nearly two years now.
These are trucks with high centres of gravity, more often than not made higher with lifts and larger than stock tires, not race cars. Can you feel the extra body roll in the corners? Of course you can, but it is not excessive, and chances are you can probably stand to go a couple mph slower on that off ramp anyway. Just adjust your driving style and be a defensive driver. The lack of sway bars isn't going to make your truck flip in any circumstances resembling normal driving.

 

[wfo9]

IMHO you guys need to get over your hangups on sway bars. I've had my front and rear completely off for nearly two years now.
These are trucks with high centres of gravity, more often than not made higher with lifts and larger than stock tires, not race cars. Can you feel the extra body roll in the corners? Of course you can, but it is not excessive, and chances are you can probably stand to go a couple mph slower on that off ramp anyway. Just adjust your driving style and be a defensive driver. The lack of sway bars isn't going to make your truck flip in any circumstances resembling normal driving.

It is tolerable... but not ideal by any stretch. I've done both... Also depends on where you live and what type of driving you typically do.

I've been running with my front disconnect setup for a while now.. I got really spoiled by it. Great road manners and great on trail with 5 minutes to take it off while airing down. However, one of the welds broke the other day when I let my daughter take a driving lesson in my truck. She apparently pulled off the road at decent speed and hit a rock.. I'm probably going to try another rev of it before giving up on the concept. Another option is the post here about the sliding links. I might try those if he ever gets back to me.

 

[06HAOLE]

I just got done reading this thread and there is some good information and some bad information.

Limit straps are needed on an LT kit so your shocks don't over extend and destroy your axles (4wd application) or over extend the shock itself.

Icons and Kings are both great shock companies. I have run both on different builds over the years. Spring rate and valving for your application is the most important thing. If a shock isn't setup right it will cause issues regardless of brand. Personally I run all King shocks because they are easy to service and parts are readily available. I mainly use my truck in the desert for high speed stuff.

Someone said that bypasses help with "sway." That's completely wrong. Your spring rate, shock valving, and not running a sway bar all contribute to vehicle "sway" while driving. CDC clickers act to adjust the stiffness of the shock and I agree can help minimize "sway" on the street. If your shocks are valved too light for your application your truck would benefit from stiffer valving and possibly a heavier spring rate.

I have run MT setups and LT setups on a 2006 Tacoma and 2012 Tacoma. The front suspension concepts are the same. I ran a 3.5" TC kit with just a King coilover for years with great results. I added a bypass later to help absorb big hits at speed. I also crawled very well in the rocks with a 3.5" kit.

I recommend that you go with a TC 3.5" kit. I have run their kits on my last three trucks with great results. They have supported me and taught me a ton over the past 9 years that I have run their products. I recommend King but Icons are great as well. You don't need a bypass unless your going fast. Tailor your coilover valving and spring rate to your truck/driving style and enjoy!!

-Matt

 

[Jono.ful]

stop giving your randflo's a bath all the time and watch them turn to rust. Radflo's are cheaper than Kings, foxes and bilsteins for a reason. they're made well, but the components they use are sub par comparatively. Radflo's durability is similar to a bilstein 5100, which while reliable - is not race reliable; and my bilsteins were 150 bucks a piece.

I'm very happy with my 2.5" radflos. no corrosion issues at all after 2+ years and 2 northern Alberta winters (they use regular salt and the liquid stuff around here too). my only ***** is that rebuild parts can be tough to find, and their nitrogen tool took 3 months to deliver :l but I'm sure any number of guys on their factory teams would disagree about their stuff not being race reliable. My old 5100's on the other hand, are corroded to hell, well, at least the 3 that are still in one piece (broken weld at the base of the mounting stud, sent it in for warranty and never heard anything back from bilstein).

 

[Orlyg1521]

Running radflos with metal tech LT, limit straps in front, no sway bar. I have owned this going on 3 yrs: a bit of sway but not bad. No rust (in PDX).

 

[wfo9]

I just got done reading this thread and there is some good information and some bad information.

Limit straps are needed on an LT kit so your shocks don't over extend and destroy your axles (4wd application) or over extend the shock itself.

Icons and Kings are both great shock companies. I have run both on different builds over the years. Spring rate and valving for your application is the most important thing. If a shock isn't setup right it will cause issues regardless of brand. Personally I run all King shocks because they are easy to service and parts are readily available. I mainly use my truck in the desert for high speed stuff.

Someone said that bypasses help with "sway." That's completely wrong. Your spring rate, shock valving, and not running a sway bar all contribute to vehicle "sway" while driving. CDC clickers act to adjust the stiffness of the shock and I agree can help minimize "sway" on the street. If your shocks are valved too light for your application your truck would benefit from stiffer valving and possibly a heavier spring rate.

I have run MT setups and LT setups on a 2006 Tacoma and 2012 Tacoma. The front suspension concepts are the same. I ran a 3.5" TC kit with just a King coilover for years with great results. I added a bypass later to help absorb big hits at speed. I also crawled very well in the rocks with a 3.5" kit.

I recommend that you go with a TC 3.5" kit. I have run their kits on my last three trucks with great results. They have supported me and taught me a ton over the past 9 years that I have run their products. I recommend King but Icons are great as well. You don't need a bypass unless your going fast. Tailor your coilover valving and spring rate to your truck/driving style and enjoy!!

-Matt

Great to hear from someone who has been running this stuff. I've sort of lost my motivation for it at the moment, but may come back to it soon.