Lift and Tire Central (pics)... Post 'em Up!

[pefiln]

315/70r17

I had some 275/70R17s and went to upgrade to 285/70R17s. After throwing one on I figured the slight difference wasn't worth the money. I asked what the next size we could try. We ended up throwing 315/70R17's on. I can't believe they fit with minimal rubbing at full lock in reverse. Starting to have buyers remorse though thinking of the extra stuff I might need to do to properly accommodate them. What does everyone think? They worth it?

 

[rpj4runner]

Anyone running a -12 offset? Looking for 18x9 specifically, but any setup would be most appreciated, thanks!

I bought the 4runner less than a month ago. Eventually will replace with proper lift. The front needs an inch more to have the stance I'd like, it probably would look closer to that if I didn't have the stock xreas suspension with 130k on it.

3/2 Rough Country Spacer/Spring Lift
1" Fatpat Body Lift
AMERICAN RACING AR172 BAJA SATIN BLACK 17x9 -12
Nitto Terra Grappler G2 285/70r17
















STOCK



3/2 LIFT


1 BODY LIFT

 

[Inv4drZm]

I had some 275/70R17s and went to upgrade to 285/70R17s. After throwing one on I figured the slight difference wasn't worth the money. I asked what the next size we could try. We ended up throwing 315/70R17's on. I can't believe they fit with minimal rubbing at full lock in reverse. Starting to have buyers remorse though thinking of the extra stuff I might need to do to properly accommodate them. What does everyone think? They worth it?

I like your thought process with the tire sizes, but you will most definitely need to trim a lot more if you flex out the suspension during wheeling for instance. No way around that.

If you do some wheeling, your spacer lift with stock shocks may not last long with the heavier tires, and an aftermarket UCA might be needed to push caster into the 5-6 degree range to reduce firewall rubbing. Then your rear diff might explode on the trail like mine did crawling over rocks which isn't a cheap lesson.

33's really don't have these issues, they are much cheaper to fit properly and run over time. The 35's certainly look cool but they come at a price.

 

[ply2win]

It's always nice to get out and stretch

 

[pefiln]

I like your thought process with the tire sizes, but you will most definitely need to trim a lot more if you flex out the suspension during wheeling for instance. No way around that.

If you do some wheeling, your spacer lift with stock shocks may not last long with the heavier tires, and an aftermarket UCA might be needed to push caster into the 5-6 degree range to reduce firewall rubbing. Then your rear diff might explode on the trail like mine did crawling over rocks which isn't a cheap lesson.

33's really don't have these issues, they are much cheaper to fit properly and run over time. The 35's certainly look cool but they come at a price.

I guess I need to update my sig but I actually have 5100s wrapped in 885 OMEs in the front along with 5100s and toytec rcc2.0s in the rear. Also have a 1" RB body lift to help fit them. Also just did the body mount chop last week in anticipation of the larger tires. I know the UCAs need to happen soon to fix the caster issue but money is a little tight. What options do I have to prevent the rear diff from exploding? Upgrade the gears?

 

[techno]

...What options do I have to prevent the rear diff from exploding? Upgrade the gears?

 

[Oneluv13T4R]

I like your thought process with the tire sizes, but you will most definitely need to trim a lot more if you flex out the suspension during wheeling for instance. No way around that.

If you do some wheeling, your spacer lift with stock shocks may not last long with the heavier tires, and an aftermarket UCA might be needed to push caster into the 5-6 degree range to reduce firewall rubbing. Then your rear diff might explode on the trail like mine did crawling over rocks which isn't a cheap lesson.

33's really don't have these issues, they are much cheaper to fit properly and run over time. The 35's certainly look cool but they come at a price.

Well said...

 

[Inv4drZm]

I guess I need to update my sig but I actually have 5100s wrapped in 885 OMEs in the front along with 5100s and toytec rcc2.0s in the rear. Also have a 1" RB body lift to help fit them. Also just did the body mount chop last week in anticipation of the larger tires. I know the UCAs need to happen soon to fix the caster issue but money is a little tight. What options do I have to prevent the rear diff from exploding? Upgrade the gears?

5100s at least are a slight upgrade from stock, they may or may not work out for you in the long haul, time will tell.

As for the rear diff, you can baby it and not go over large rocky obstacles until you upgrade it or you can wheel until it explodes and call someone to tow your truck home and replace it at that time.

If you send in your broken 3rd member to ECGS it will run you $800 to replace it with an identical 3rd member with a solid pinion spacer instead of the weak/wore factory crush spacer and their 5yr warranty.

If you sell your intact 3rd member it will bring roughly $3-400 and then you can buy one of ECGS's 3rd's with the solid pinion spacer for $1000 and add lockers, different gears, whatever.

Or find a 8.2" rear end from a new FJ or 4runner which will bolt right up, it might be marginally stronger. Or buy a Diamond axle with a 9.5" LC 3rd member which should be plenty stronger or there are some other companies that build a dana 60 based rear axle that bolts up to the stock hardware as well. Easily $3-4k though.

I've seen multiple guys on the forum, including me and my brother, that wheel on 34's or 35's, and shortly thereafter, bust the factory 8" rear end.

 

[Jason B]

I had some 275/70R17s and went to upgrade to 285/70R17s. After throwing one on I figured the slight difference wasn't worth the money. I asked what the next size we could try. We ended up throwing 315/70R17's on. I can't believe they fit with minimal rubbing at full lock in reverse. Starting to have buyers remorse though thinking of the extra stuff I might need to do to properly accommodate them. What does everyone think? They worth it?

What are those leds on the mirrors? Cool.

 

[pefiln]

5100s at least are a slight upgrade from stock, they may or may not work out for you in the long haul, time will tell.

As for the rear diff, you can baby it and not go over large rocky obstacles until you upgrade it or you can wheel until it explodes and call someone to tow your truck home and replace it at that time.

If you send in your broken 3rd member to ECGS it will run you $800 to replace it with an identical 3rd member with a solid pinion spacer instead of the weak/wore factory crush spacer and their 5yr warranty.

If you sell your intact 3rd member it will bring roughly $3-400 and then you can buy one of ECGS's 3rd's with the solid pinion spacer for $1000 and add lockers, different gears, whatever.

Or find a 8.2" rear end from a new FJ or 4runner which will bolt right up, it might be marginally stronger. Or buy a Diamond axle with a 9.5" LC 3rd member which should be plenty stronger or there are some other companies that build a dana 60 based rear axle that bolts up to the stock hardware as well. Easily $3-4k though.

I've seen multiple guys on the forum, including me and my brother, that wheel on 34's or 35's, and shortly thereafter, bust the factory 8" rear end.

Alright. Thank you for all of the info. As I was kinda dreading I'm not sure I'm really ready for all of that. I would love to be there someday and have an awesome rig like yours though. Maybe I can find something a little larger than the 285's but not quite as large as the 315s for now though.

What are those leds on the mirrors? Cool.

They are actually construction lights so they have like 20 different strobe functions. I just use the solid one to assist in corners though. I had them on for about 2 years solely for cornering at night before getting the ditch lights.

 

[K_Ricketts23]

Daystar Lift

About to put the Daystar 2.5/1,5 lift on my 06 SR5. I see a lot of things saying it will go up to 32 inch tires. Anybody had problems with rubbing with 33s on them? And suggestions on spacers also?

 

[MrSeth]

Finally snapped a good comparison photo.

20476396_1750391515258259_7456648722636025997_n

 

[theoutbackdream]

As for the rear diff, you can baby it and not go over large rocky obstacles until you upgrade it or you can wheel until it explodes and call someone to tow your truck home and replace it at that time..

Dumb question...

Are our rear diffs so weak that its common to fail/prone to fail?

 

[Inv4drZm]

Dumb question...

Are our rear diffs so weak that its common to fail/prone to fail?

When you rock crawl with 34s or 35s yes in my opinion they are.

But rebuild the factory 10yr old 3rd member with a solid pinion spacer and ECGS's 5yr warranty and you should be set for a while. We'll see how well the rebuild 3rd members hold up with my brother's rebuilt diff and with my rebuilt diff at least until we throw a larger axle in.

You are probably fine with a set of 33's depending on what you want to crawl over, but IMO it's still risky, again depending on what obstacles you want to tackle especially with the factory 10yr old or older rear differential.

 

[theoutbackdream]

When you rock crawl with 34s or 35s yes in my opinion they are.

But rebuild the factory 10yr old 3rd member with a solid pinion spacer and ECGS's 5yr warranty and you should be set for a while. We'll see how well the rebuild 3rd members hold up with my brother's rebuilt diff and with my rebuilt diff at least until we throw a larger axle in.

You are probably fine with a set of 33's depending on what you want to crawl over, but IMO it's still risky, again depending on what obstacles you want to tackle especially with the factory 10yr old or older rear differential.

Gotcha. It makes sense. You've got me looking into a rear diff now... dang it.. haha

Thanks!

 

[Cisco Kid]

Looks great, do you happen to have any additional pics from the front? The first pic didn't come through.

Any major rubbing? I noticed the mudflaps which is a good sign are those factory? Any issues with rocks or sand blasting your fenders?

If I remember, I'll get some more pictures taken this evening. The mud flaps are there but they have been trimmed quite a bit and still rub occasionally. I haven't really noticed any issues with rocks/sand hitting the fenders but the sliders have been beat pretty good. I'll probably have to get them coated with Line-X to keep them looking good.

 

[Cisco Kid]

Looks great, do you happen to have any additional pics from the front?

Here are a few more pics.

These show what I trimmed on the passenger side. I still get an occasional rub on the mudflap. The drivers side mudflap has had a bit more trimmed off of it.

This is what the drivers side slider looks like right now. They both have been getting pretty beat up with the miles I drive for work.

 

[amalik]

Here are a few more pics.

(off-topic)... nice lawn edging man! That is one straight edge on all sides.

 

[Cisco Kid]

(off-topic)... nice lawn edging man! That is one straight edge on all sides.

Thanks! That was done with a string trimmer and my calibrated eyeball. :dizzy: :biggrin1:

 

[Oneluv13T4R]

Thanks! That was done with a string trimmer and my calibrated eyeball. :dizzy: :biggrin1:

I agree does look good.
Quick question whats the point of having rock sliders on a rig that doesnt do any wheeling /off pavement driving? Just cooler looking than running boards im assuming?