glenyoshida
New member
I 2nd CVJ. They are a local shop to us and we've had them reman dozens of 3rd gen axles for us. Feel free to name drop and ask for a discount. They might just give you one.
FWIW turning your steering to the steering stops with one wheel drooped tends to break axles more than anything else I've seen. Removing your front sway bar makes it even more likely that you'll break something.
I very likely would have never broken any axles had I avoided the obstacles. Pretty sure of it now that I'm thinking back. All my axle breaks have been on things where we stop, get out, stand around, and look at it before someone (often me) says "I'll give it a try."
Keep the steering moderate and the rpms low and you will probably never break an axle. Wheel spin means you lost power to that tire so stopping and taking a new line is a much better than giving it more gas. If you do get an axle as a spare, which I agree is a good idea, here's additional tools you will likely need.
- rocks or actual wheel chocks. When you remove that axle nut it's easy to roll the rig off the jack.
- sharpened chisel or screwdriver to get the metal grease cap off without denting it.
- pliers to remove the cotter pin
- a stick to jam between the seat and brake pedal while you remove the axle nut.
- 35mm socket for the axle nut. Retorque to 174 ft/lbs
- 14mm socket for the lower ball joint
- 3lb sledge hammer (regular framing hammer often doesn't have enough mass to overcome the c-clip on the inner axle shaft)
- 16" chisel or similar to place the force on the axle when whacking it with the sledge.
- blue threadlocker for the ball joints torque the 14mm to 59 ft/lbs
FWIW turning your steering to the steering stops with one wheel drooped tends to break axles more than anything else I've seen. Removing your front sway bar makes it even more likely that you'll break something.
I very likely would have never broken any axles had I avoided the obstacles. Pretty sure of it now that I'm thinking back. All my axle breaks have been on things where we stop, get out, stand around, and look at it before someone (often me) says "I'll give it a try."
Keep the steering moderate and the rpms low and you will probably never break an axle. Wheel spin means you lost power to that tire so stopping and taking a new line is a much better than giving it more gas. If you do get an axle as a spare, which I agree is a good idea, here's additional tools you will likely need.
- rocks or actual wheel chocks. When you remove that axle nut it's easy to roll the rig off the jack.
- sharpened chisel or screwdriver to get the metal grease cap off without denting it.
- pliers to remove the cotter pin
- a stick to jam between the seat and brake pedal while you remove the axle nut.
- 35mm socket for the axle nut. Retorque to 174 ft/lbs
- 14mm socket for the lower ball joint
- 3lb sledge hammer (regular framing hammer often doesn't have enough mass to overcome the c-clip on the inner axle shaft)
- 16" chisel or similar to place the force on the axle when whacking it with the sledge.
- blue threadlocker for the ball joints torque the 14mm to 59 ft/lbs
