Lots of CV Axle Questions

[UTEP]

Hi All,

I have not yet broken a cv but by reading the posts it is bound to happen.

For now I will purchase a Napa ATM 0652432 Altrom new as a spare; a good choice?

I have a couple of work related trips that will mostly be over just bad dirt roads with several small sections of 4x4. I 4x4 to get from A to B not into crawling or jumping unless these occur between A and B. My 2000 is not lifted, 32" tires.

I am curious as to how they break, aside from wear and age what sort of circumstances lead to the failure. I may be able to avoid if I know when to be more careful.

Was it an impact?
Tight turn?
Punching it while "stuck"?
Landing/gravity event?

Ever happen in 2wd?

Where you lifted?
Large tires?

Does OEM last longer?

It was suggested to me to pull one in the comfort of home to see how it goes. If my current one is functional should I just leave it on or put the Altrom on right now? Any checks once I have it off to see if it's sound?

And finally any tricks for the procedure to make it as smooth as possible?

Thanks again!

Utep

 

[JayRolla]

35" tires and front lockers break cv shafts.

Also a little bit of good driving will save your cv's. When your crawling there is a lot more stress when you tires are cranked and fully turned. Also when trying to climb if you lose traction you dont want to start hopping the front end so the tires grip and lose traction real fast. The hard stress can break the cv.

IMO the best option for a spare is a good condition used OEM cv.

 

[UTEP]

IMO the best option for a spare is a good condition used OEM cv.

I have not been able to find a used OEM CV.

I'm vacationing near a large truck salvage yard and will swing by tomorrow but last time there they like to pull the parts and have them on the self, so there is no way to know if you got the right one, well not like pulling it from a certain 3rd gen… Is there a simple stamped number I should look for?


Come to think of it…would any 3rd gen work or should I strive for a year specific if I go the used route?

If I get a used should I factor the cost of new boots and grease or should I reject if any issues with the boots?

I imagine used should just pass the smooth movement test, no binding or grinding….

All that is kinda why I was thinking the lifetime guarantee Napa

Thanks,

U

 

[sggaz]

I just swapped my first two CVs a couple of weeks ago due to torn boots after installing a lift. The old boots had 150K miles on them. I would most definitely not want my first experience changing those on the trail. I went with the Napa brand new Maxdrive units. The Napa guy at the counter said the manager would only allow sales of those as the others break too easily fwiw.

I used the procedure detailed in the maintenance section on this site and also the FSM for reference. Getting the old one out was easy for me but engaging the new one into the diff was not as easy. Eventually I got it and the second was much less a mystery.

The internals of the OEM CV are very impressive. I plan to reboot and keep them as backups. I've not tested the Napa ones but what I've read is that they are reasonably good and for $99 each and brand new I went with them.

 

[BrianSD_42]

For now I will purchase a Napa ATM 0652432 Altrom new as a spare; a good choice?

My 2 cents ... skip the Napa (or any aftermarket) and just wheel yours until they break.

I've yet to break a CV and I've had the truck 10 years. I don't baby the truck but I don't trash it either.

You can do A LOT of moderate offroad wheeling with 31,32,33" tires without any CV problems.

The most common higher mileage CV issue I see on this forum is a leaking CV boot which does not mean the CV metal is bad.

Try to find some at a scrap yard or just wait it out.

BTW you can buy an OEM spare (re-manufactured directly from Toyota) through Camelback Toyota Online Parts.

All that is kinda why I was thinking the lifetime guarantee Napa

The lifetime guarantee sounds great on paper but if the part is weak / inferior and will fail on the trail then what good is it really besides easy exchange for another one that will also break.

 

[Singtoe]

Stay away from new cv axles (especially ones that have a round inner joint) You want the ones that are tri sided. which are mainly the reman ones.

The round ones do not have the angular operating extremes as the tri sided ones.

 

[Doc2012]

35" tires and front lockers break cv shafts./QUOTE]

I tend to disagree here.

While there is no doubt that the 35's and lockers will put MORE STRESS on the CVs, it doesn't mean that it will break them.

It's all about driving style.

If you're running 35s, and HAMMER places, yes, expect to go through CVs like condoms.

If you're smart, pick the right line, use your front locker when you need it, you'll be fine.

My brother is running ARB front and rear, has been for 6 years now, and has broken maybe 2 CVs. That's with 35 Super Swampers.

Before I destroyed my rear diff, I was locked front and rear as well. Did some pretty good stuff with a set of 265/75/16's, as well as some flexing/showing off with some 37s. I didn't break any CVs.

 

[snivilous]

Stay away from new cv axles (especially ones that have a round inner joint) You want the ones that are tri sided. which are mainly the reman ones.

The round ones do not have the angular operating extremes as the tri sided ones.

How do you figure that?

 

[BrianSD_42]

Stay away from new cv axles (especially ones that have a round inner joint) You want the ones that are tri sided. which are mainly the reman ones.

The round ones do not have the angular operating extremes as the tri sided ones.

[MENTION=59542]Singtoe[/MENTION]

Can you explain a bit more. Whats the difference?

I assumed all Toyota 4Runner 3rd Gen Year XX CV Joints are exactly the same.

If I have to buy a new one I would probably get a Toyota OEM Re-manufactured one from Camelback Toyota.

 

[Skidmarcx]

I agree with what has been said about 35s and lockers upping the stress on axles... It's the transient torque that inevitably breaks them though

 

[UTEP]

My 2 cents ...

BTW you can buy an OEM spare (re-manufactured directly from Toyota) through Camelback Toyota Online Parts.



The lifetime guarantee sounds great on paper but if the part is weak / inferior and will fail on the trail then what good is it really besides easy exchange for another one that will also break.

True but it would get me out of trouble…


Camelback sounds good but I can't find a reman cv.

2000 Toyota 4Runner Parts - Camelback Toyota Parts - Genuine OEM Parts - Free Shipping

Any clue on a part number?

Are the cv's stamped with a number that I could take to the wrecking yard and see if I can find a match?

Thanks,

Utep

 

[NateMob]

Ive got one up in Alamogordo Ill sell. Its OEM, and i would reboot it while its out. Pulled from a stock height truck that had never been wheeled.

 

[nevada]

Hi All,

I have not yet broken a cv but by reading the posts it is bound to happen.

For now I will purchase a Napa ATM 0652432 Altrom new as a spare; a good choice?

I have a couple of work related trips that will mostly be over just bad dirt roads with several small sections of 4x4. I 4x4 to get from A to B not into crawling or jumping unless these occur between A and B. My 2000 is not lifted, 32" tires.

I am curious as to how they break, aside from wear and age what sort of circumstances lead to the failure. I may be able to avoid if I know when to be more careful.

Was it an impact?
Tight turn?
Punching it while "stuck"?
Landing/gravity event?

Ever happen in 2wd?

Where you lifted?
Large tires?

Does OEM last longer?

It was suggested to me to pull one in the comfort of home to see how it goes. If my current one is functional should I just leave it on or put the Altrom on right now? Any checks once I have it off to see if it's sound?

And finally any tricks for the procedure to make it as smooth as possible?

Thanks again!

Utep

it doesn't sound like you're actually going to be 4wheeling. I doubt you'll have any issues. the CV's don't break THAT easily.

as said above, being turned under pressure is hard on them. but, with a virtually stock truck, I doubt you'll break them, unless you REALLY get into some rough stuff.

My 2 cents ... skip the Napa (or any aftermarket) and just wheel yours until they break.

this.
having a spare would be nice, but not really necessary. not for the type of use you're describing.

 

[JayRolla]

35" tires and front lockers break cv shafts./QUOTE]

I tend to disagree here.

While there is no doubt that the 35's and lockers will put MORE STRESS on the CVs, it doesn't mean that it will break them.

It's all about driving style.

If you're running 35s, and HAMMER places, yes, expect to go through CVs like condoms.

If you're smart, pick the right line, use your front locker when you need it, you'll be fine.

My brother is running ARB front and rear, has been for 6 years now, and has broken maybe 2 CVs. That's with 35 Super Swampers.

Before I destroyed my rear diff, I was locked front and rear as well. Did some pretty good stuff with a set of 265/75/16's, as well as some flexing/showing off with some 37s. I didn't break any CVs.

You just proved my point. He has broken two cv's. I have broken zero. I have no locker and 33's. Two cvs in 6 years is quite a lot comparing it to zero and I wheel quite a bit.

There was a member not to long ago that was in about 3 feet of snow, lost traction. Activated his front locker on his 35's. Barely started going and the shaft broke from the grip of the snow. He was being careful but was turning sharply to get back on the road. If you want to run 35's and lockers the best way to go is a SAS. If you want your daily driver cv's to last then keep the locker out and keep the tire size down. Not to mention the larger tires cause lots of stress on tie rod ends and ball joints.

 

[Singtoe]

[MENTION=59542]Singtoe[/MENTION]

Can you explain a bit more. Whats the difference?

I assumed all Toyota 4Runner 3rd Gen Year XX CV Joints are exactly the same.

If I have to buy a new one I would probably get a Toyota OEM Re-manufactured one from Camelback Toyota.

The inner joint is round. Stay away.

This is what you want

 

[Doc2012]

You just proved my point. He has broken two cv's. I have broken zero. I have no locker and 33's. Two cvs in 6 years is quite a lot comparing it to zero and I wheel quite a bit.

There was a member not to long ago that was in about 3 feet of snow, lost traction. Activated his front locker on his 35's. Barely started going and the shaft broke from the grip of the snow. He was being careful but was turning sharply to get back on the road. If you want to run 35's and lockers the best way to go is a SAS. If you want your daily driver cv's to last then keep the locker out and keep the tire size down. Not to mention the larger tires cause lots of stress on tie rod ends and ball joints.

Want a cookie?

And I've got a buddy that doesn't have lockers, is running 255/85/16, and broke a CV.

A locker WILL add stress, yes. But so will wheeling in general.

Just because you haven't broken a CV, YET, doesn't mean it's not going too happen.

And the fact that this guy was turning sharply, is what broke the CV. NOT the locker.

Best way is to SAS? Where does that come from? PLENTY of people here, TTORA, TW, EP, are running IFS with lockers. You don't hear them *****ing about breaking CVs. SAS on a DD?? These aren't Jeeps. They're made for comfort. I'm sure if the OP wanted a SAS'd rig, he would've bought one, or a Jeep instead.

I think you just don't like dealing with the hazards of wheeling. It takes about 15-20 minutes to change a CV on a trail. Not that hard to do at all.


OP, you're right, it's bound too happen. Especially if you wheel, LOCKED OR NOT.

The CV is the weak point of the system. It's designed to break. I'd rather break that then destroy another diff any day.

Take a day, practice changing out the CV. It's not hard. 7 bolts.
A Pickle fork and a hammer will make things easier getting it out of the diff.

When you install a new CV, the "C" clip that is on the diff side, have the opening pointed down. It seems to slide in easier that way.

Avoid "punching" the gas when stuck. If your front end starts hopping, back off. Hell, avoid punching the gas period in 4WD.

If you do decide too put a locker in, avoid sharp turns. You know how diffs work, one side goes faster than the other, and a locked front diff turned sharply will definitely break a CV.

Any questions, feel free to ask.

 

[Bryan1]

It's hard to predict when your CV will break. Actually it's impossible to calculate exactly when and under what conditions this will occur. But when it happens you will know. The best thing you can do is be prepared. This is what it will sound like lol, found this on youtube.



What I found helpful was keeping an eye on the junkyard for 3rd gens and practicing removing CV's from those rigs. I learned how to remove and replace CV's this way and ended up with a few spares for dirt cheap. This way when it happens you know how to fix it because you've done it before. My CV boots have been ripped since forever and still haven't broken. I guess I'm not wheeling hard enough haha.

 

[UTEP]

Thanks all!

I love Bryan1's film…that is exactly how I imagine the bulk of the failures occur.

I guess I'll skip the new and look for a decent used. Natemob; I'll PM you..thanks!

Local wrecking yard was a strike out but there is a pull your own parts place nearby as well.

While I don't intend on doing much extreme wheeling situations can easily present themselves where I could have a failure, and I'm guessing it's not a good idea to drive out with a busted cv. Being a geologist I can find myself 20-30+ miles in the back country and even farther to a parts or repair shop so I am trying to cover as many bases as possible on what's likely to break.

Any more info appreciated.

Utep

 

[xcmtb83]

Is it the inner or outer joint that typically fails?

 

[awthorn]

Check out CVJ axles, he only remans OEM and has an extended boot option for lifted runners. Don't drive like a jack wagon and you shouldn't BREAK your axles. From what it sounds like you don't have any plans to.