Lubricating propeller shafts

[audiness]

This is a related question to the slip yokes, and this is an active thread on the subject, so here is my question. I bought my T4R a few months ago, and I just recently lubricated all 6 zerks in the drivetrain at 48K, and I don't know for sure, but I suspect that these might have never been lubricated since new.

Anyway, when lubricating the regular U-joints, I just pumped in grease until the old grease just started to seep out around the joint seals. But I'm wondering, should I pump in more new grease and force more of the old grease out, and also thereby perhaps get better saturation of the little roller bearings in the U-joints?

yes, i would run it for a few 1000 miles and then re-lubricate again to force out any old dirty grease remaining in there. I would do several cycles of that.
(this is what i am doing on mine). Mine did still have some old brown looking grease in it, but I am slowly working in all new grease into all the fittings using this method. make sure you wipe up any of the grease that comes out, otherwise you will have a bigger mess to clean up later.

 

[JB.]

Just lubed the prop shafts again using 2 grease guns this time. Got another one of these. Went to Mobil 1 grease for the spiders while continuing with the Valvoline Moly for the slips.

Why? The last time I lubed, I had trouble getting grease into the spiders -- but only the spiders. I ended up having to get help because the grease gun fitting had to be pushed very hard against the zerk in order get the grease inside instead of outside. It had always required a lot of pressure against the spider zerks, but after having to get help last time, I decided I needed a solution. Looking at the condition of some of the old moly grease that had been thrown around underneath, I speculated that it might have a tendency to not flow as well through the zerks as a non-moly grease. Since, technically, the moly is not recommended for the spiders anyway, I decided to go this route and greasing was easier right off the bat. I don't know how well that fits with the theory as I would have expected the greasing to start off difficult before getting easier, but, whatever the cause, I'm glad I made the change. I'll gladly admit to a boneheaded theory in exchange for easier greasing. As the saying goes, I'd rather be lucky than good.

As usual, the rear slip yoke took a lot of pumps. About 100 this time to get some seepage through the seal. My pistol grip grease gun has a pretty short stroke, so I don't know how that relates to other guns. I put 20 pumps into the front, just enough to get it to move a little. Harper7 pointed out to me a while back how little the front drive shaft needs to move in its normal operation ,which I hadn't stopped to consider before. Consequently, I'm being a little less aggressive with that one.

 

[chip4]

OP here, I have since moved on to a 2012 Limited 5th gen and I will continue to lubricate the propeller shaft. I do not have the driveshaft clunk/thunk noise yet but apparently Toyota has issued a TSB for 2010-2012 SR5/Trail a complete replacement of the rear propeller shaft:
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-g...s-fix-axle-wrap-driveshaft-clunky-thumpy.html

 

[FooJet]

Both the Chilton and Haynes manuals for the 4th gen 4Runner say that you should keep pumping grease into the slip yokes until you see it begin to come out of the seal.

That's exactly what I've been doing for the seven years that I've owned my 4Runner and I've never had a problem. I grease the slip yokes and u-joints every other oil change and I've never once experienced the driveline clunk people talk about. So I guess I must be doing something right.

DocMT,
I'm experiencing the "thump" when I release my break. I'm going to grease the slip yokes and u-joints this weekend. I'm new to this so please bear with me....I'm assuming the grease gun fits on to the zerk fitting; do I have to remove the zerk fitting before pumping in the grease?

 

[chaz]

foojet, this may be of some use. http://www.toyota-4runner.org/maintenance/28414-07-v8-4x4-zerk-fitting-pics.html

 

[TechWrench]

DocMT,
I'm experiencing the "thump" when I release my break. I'm going to grease the slip yokes and u-joints this weekend. I'm new to this so please bear with me....I'm assuming the grease gun fits on to the zerk fitting; do I have to remove the zerk fitting before pumping in the grease?

You do NOT remove the zerk fittings to grease these areas. The fitting on the end of the standard grease gun hose is designed to snap onto the zerk and hold in place while pumping the new grease into the area. But, you should be sure each zerk is cleaned of any accumulated dry grease and dirt before hand. In some cases, it is easier to have the vehicle on stands, so you can turn the driveshafts to allow easier access to the zerks (especially the ones for the u-joints).

 

[FooJet]

Thanks for the replies!

 

[jgue467]

So do 3g runners have the 'thump' too?

I'm not sure i hear a thump on quick stops, I thought it was my rear (pos drum) brakes that were 'flexing' due to the quick stop, i say this because just as i release the brake pedal then i hear/feel a little something not sure i'd call it a thump though. Do you think its the slip joint instead?

Next question, on anther post i asked if i can safely use moly #2 grease on everthing including the non-cardan joints, one guy replied no way but didn't explain why. So what's the scoop on whether i need 2 grease types or just one?

 

[Twogun]

New guy, dumb question

Just found this thread searching around and man y'all are awesome! I've owned a 05' T4R 2X4 4.7 a couple years and do all the service on it. I've been looking for the location on the shaft couplings to grease them and come up scratching my head. Is it possible to have a greaseless shaft couplings on the 2x4? I've had her up on a lift and searched everywhere with no-joy.

Let me know if I'm crazy! Thanks all.

 

[TowMeOut]

Hmmm...I just did my 06 Sport 4x4 over the weekend and hit all 6 fittings. If you're 2wd you should have 3 on the rear shaft. One is on each u-joint and one is on the slip joint. The slip joint one is pretty foolproof. There's a zerk fitting just poking out of the side of the driveshaft. The ones on the u-joints are a bit more of a pain. You have to spin the shaft back and forth a bit to spot them down inside the yokes sticking out of the side of the u-joints.

Is this a drive-on or a chassis lift? You really need to be able to have the rear wheels off the ground and the transmission in neutral so you can easily spin the driveshaft by hand. I was doing mine in the driveway with the rear axle on jackstands. Any chance there's so much road gunk caked in the u-joints you just can't see the fitting?

 

[TechWrench]

Just found this thread searching around and man y'all are awesome! I've owned a 05' T4R 2X4 4.7 a couple years and do all the service on it. I've been looking for the location on the shaft couplings to grease them and come up scratching my head. Is it possible to have a greaseless shaft couplings on the 2x4? I've had her up on a lift and searched everywhere with no-joy.

Let me know if I'm crazy! Thanks all.

If you had read most of the threads on this topic, you should have found out that only the 4x4 vehicles have zerk fittings on the driveshafts. The 2x4 does not have any factory zerk fittings, and can't be serviced like the 4x4 can.

 

[Flyer]

I need to get this done soon on my 2005 4x4 V8. Both my grease guns (one needle point and one regular for zerk fittings) have Synergy grease in them. Here is the description for marketing purposes:

Synergy Lithium Complex Extreme Pressure (EP) Grease is powered by Micro-Armor Solid-Film Lubrication Technology, which utilizes patented "micro-particles" to outperform ALL other grease technologies in extreme friction applications by repairing and smoothing damaged metal surfaces while reducing friction and heat. NLGI rated GC-LB, the highest rating awarded for chassis and wheel bearing grease.

Will this grease work on every section of the shaft or should I see what Toyota uses/recommends? I don't mind getting another grease. I'll see if I can use my buddy's (he works at a Jeep/Chrysler dealer) lift bay to do it. That way I can check out the entire underneath too.

 

[Twogun]

If you had read most of the threads on this topic, you should have found out that only the 4x4 vehicles have zerk fittings on the driveshafts. The 2x4 does not have any factory zerk fittings, and can't be serviced like the 4x4 can.

Thanks for the information, I appreciate it as I was under the impression I would find a grease fitting somewhere. Appreciate the help.


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[trdsport]

...To do list !!

 

[TripleTS_T4R]

Should be like this drawing. I seem to recall reading that the double-cardan was eliminated in 4th gen.

Servicing this weekend with just the torque specs. Did the greasing 9k ago with the differential change.
:thanks:

 

[jhhennes]

If you had read most of the threads on this topic, you should have found out that only the 4x4 vehicles have zerk fittings on the driveshafts. The 2x4 does not have any factory zerk fittings, and can't be serviced like the 4x4 can.

Sorry to probably beat a dead horse, but in the case of a 2x4 doing this, like mine does, what are the options then if it can't be serviced?

Mine does it consistently and it's getting really annoying. To the point that I've only had the thing for 3 months and i already want to sell it. :redbrick:

 

[rwh963]

i like being independent and doing as much as i can myself. however, with this maintenance i tend to let the dealer top them up when i go in for a twice/year tire rotation. the rotation is about $20, and the lubing is between 0-$20.

 

[YetiX]

Sorry to probably beat a dead horse, but in the case of a 2x4 doing this, like mine does, what are the options then if it can't be serviced?

Mine does it consistently and it's getting really annoying. To the point that I've only had the thing for 3 months and i already want to sell it. :redbrick:

I believe your only fix is to replace it with a new driveshaft.

 

[jhhennes]

I believe your only fix is to replace it with a new driveshaft.

Well, that's just a terrible design lol! Looks like it's under $400 for a replacement one plus labor, which I'm guessing I could do myself. Not terrible, but sure would be nice to just be able to grease it instead!

 

[TechWrench]

Sorry to probably beat a dead horse, but in the case of a 2x4 doing this, like mine does, what are the options then if it can't be serviced?

Mine does it consistently and it's getting really annoying. To the point that I've only had the thing for 3 months and i already want to sell it. :redbrick:

Not sure what to recommend. The "bump' problem with the 4x4 is in the two piece driveshaft slip joint. Since the 2wd has a one piece driveshaft, the slip connection is located where the driveshaft plugs into the rear of the transmission. There is a splined yoke that slips over the splined output shaft of the transmission. This spline joint is lubricated by the transmission fluid in the trans. Though it is possible, I suppose, I tend to doubt that the problem you are experiencing is coming from this joint. I would have a competent mechanic check out the driveshaft. You may have a bad u-joint that is causing a noise/bump.