MINIMUM BL Size for 35"

BlackWorksInc

New member
So I read the FAQ Sticky and read a few pages in. Tried my search-fu but it just pulled up tons of questions on body lifts in general and not really the specifics I was looking for.

Currently running Nitto Terra-Grapplers 295/70R17 (33"ish) and in the future plan on going with some 35's. But this raises a few issues for me and I figure you guys could help me out.

~The FAQ is a little vauge on fitting 34" tires, saying 1~1.5" BL. What is the Minimum amount of body lift that I can manage to comfortably fit 35's? I want to maintain as low a center of gravity as possible without comprimising tire fit.

~While I am aware that with the 1"+ BL I will need the steering spacer and radiator brackets, am I missing anything else? (Body mount chop and trimming not included as that I will take care of later.)

~Finally, I like the way the 4Runner rides now. But I have seen members saying they reccomend poly-urathene bushings when installing the body lift. My question is, how much stiffer does this make the ride? I would like to try and keep the ride where it is rather than make it any rougher/stiffer.

Thanks guys, sorry if this is a repeat thread, but I figure I get a couple of idiot threads with all the help I give! LOL :keyboard:
 
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So posted this on the 120 forums also and they pretty much most agreed that the 1.5" would be best. But one or two people chimed in that even with chopping the mounts, trimming and banging the welds down they still have rubbing with their 35's (on full compression).

The other thing that wasn't really strongly agreed on was the poly-urathene bushings vs. the rubber ones in terms of ride stiffness.

Anyone have any input? :D
 
I guess the key word was fitting 35's comfortably. Companies that sell the bracket lifts for FJ's like Rough Country or FabTech market 3" kit's for 33's and 6" kits for 35's. So I'd say that 6" of total lift is the magic number, but FJ wheel wells appear to be a lot more big tire friendly than 4Runners (at least it seems that way to me).

That being said, it appears that our fellow (non SAS) T4R members that roll 35's, get there in a number of ways. A few come to mind:

alex56 did it probably closest to what you're looking at with 4" + 1.5".

Huskey got his with a fully custom 6".

daPitbull is running your tires in 315x75R16 (34.6x12.4) with 1" of BL on an OW 2.5 kit with all pro 3.5" rear coils

There was one kid, kego37, that stuffed 35's on a 2wd with a 3/2 + 1 with 2" wheel spacers.... but I wouldn't say that it looked very "comfortable".

Regarding the Poly bushings: Are you talking about replacing the rubber ones with poly ones? My actual lift spacers are poly, but the kit reuses the factory isolation mounts. I would think using poly would make the ride WAY harsh. I know that when I installed mine, I could not put one bolt all the way in because it was too short, so I rode around for a few days with the lower set of isolators off and just from that single set (2 of 16) it rode horrible.

Wife is nagging, so I gotta roll. Hope that helps.
 
Decided to ressurect this thread again, anyone know if there are companies that sell a 2" Body Lift Kit? I'm trying to debate what my end game is going to be, still heavily leaning on 35" Toyo Open Country MTs....
 
Decided to ressurect this thread again, anyone know if there are companies that sell a 2" Body Lift Kit?
:behindsofa: Why not just stack two 1" BLs? :spy:


















:jk: - I'd look into the 4crawler custom one zak mentioned.

I feel like there must be a reason no one makes one larger than 1.5", wires too short, linkages that don't quite work right... I know companies make 3" BLs for chevy, ford, older yotas, and jeep, so I feel like something must not work properly over 1.5" for 4th gens.
 
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:behindsofa: Why not just stack two 1" BLs? :spy:

:jk: - I'd look into the 4crawler custom one zak mentioned.

I feel like there must be a reason no one makes one larger than 1.5", wires too short, linkages that don't quite work right... I know companies make 3" BLs for chevy, ford, older yotas, and jeep, so I feel like something must not work properly over 1.5" for 4th gens.

Blk4Runner actually stacked two 1.5's together for a 3" Body Lift and its been working okay for him. But I think that's a bit too excessive for my needs, there are considerations in things like the strength of the bolts used, thickness of the bolts, ect... but it can be done and so far hasn't really affected his vehicle much (knock on wood :P)
 
Blk4Runner actually stacked two 1.5's together for a 3" Body Lift and its been working okay for him. But I think that's a bit too excessive for my needs, there are considerations in things like the strength of the bolts used, thickness of the bolts, ect... but it can be done and so far hasn't really affected his vehicle much (knock on wood :P)

mehhhhhh... I read that thread on 120.... :argue:
Also, like [MENTION=50591]gaterose[/MENTION] said, I think they make a 3rd gen 3" BL. :shrug:
 
mehhhhhh... I read that thread on 120.... :argue:
Also, like [MENTION=50591]gaterose[/MENTION] said, I think they make a 3rd gen 3" BL. :shrug:

I think you have to question your motives for running bigger tires. Such as is moving up 2" in tire size worth 3" of body lift? If the idea is low and wide on large tires is a 3" suspension lift plus a 3@ body lift worth it? I'd rather explore other options to fit wider tires ie. 305's etc rather than do 35's.

-not really directed at you just keeping the discussion going.
 
I think you have to question your motives for running bigger tires. Such as is moving up 2" in tire size worth 3" of body lift? If the idea is low and wide on large tires is a 3" suspension lift plus a 3@ body lift worth it? I'd rather explore other options to fit wider tires ie. 305's etc rather than do 35's.

-not really directed at you just keeping the discussion going.

I understand where you're coming from, and I don't think 3" is going to be needed to get the job done; thinking more like 1.5~2" should be good. I need just enough to fit the 35"s somewhat comfortably and still get suspension travel from the tires without a lot of rubbing on normal driving (i.e. smaller washboard roads and full lock turning.)

I am planning on chopping the body mounts, gutting the fenderwells (a member actually did an amazing job of trimming the front fender wells, they looked factory still even though he cut half the height of the plastic fender flare out), I will need to machine bump-stop extenders to curb unwanted rubbing on flexing (sort of a balancing act there...), so on and such...

Its going to be a fun project...
 
I've emailed roger before about bigger than 1.5" bl for the 4th and he said absolutely just the frame gap looks somewhat large is what he said.
 
Skateboard wheels on the cheap. Most are made with polyurethane and vary in different sizes and stiffness depending on compounds used.
 
I'm planning to build up to 35's when the bfg a/t's wear out, but I am going to regear before doing so. I have 285/70 r17's with spidertrax, 3" ome heavy springs, and rb 1.5" body lift. I get rubbing on the body mounts at full lock on pavement in reverse even after chopping the tip of the body mounts already. I'm going to cut the entire front body mounts all the way to the bushings and weld a new curved plate.
 
I'm planning to build up to 35's when the bfg a/t's wear out, but I am going to regear before doing so. I have 285/70 r17's with spidertrax, 3" ome heavy springs, and rb 1.5" body lift. I get rubbing on the body mounts at full lock on pavement in reverse even after chopping the tip of the body mounts already. I'm going to cut the entire front body mounts all the way to the bushings and weld a new curved plate.

I saw a company (can't remember who) who sells the pre-curved pieces to weld onto the body mounts. This is going to be the route I am going to go as well, to get as much clearance out of the mount as possible, it also lookse pretty nice when done right.

I assume you have the V6 if you're talking about regearing?
 
I saw a company (can't remember who) who sells the pre-curved pieces to weld onto the body mounts. This is going to be the route I am going to go as well, to get as much clearance out of the mount as possible, it also lookse pretty nice when done right.

I assume you have the V6 if you're talking about regearing?

No, I have the V8. It's "ok" with 33's but would be way under powered with 35's. I want to get an e-locker rear end from an FJ to swap out. My understanding is it has a lower gear as well as the locker so it solves both issues at once. Just have to find a good junkyard deal.
 
Figured I'd post in this thread since it relates...

Anyone buy Longer Rear Brake Lines when doing their body lift or was that more of an afterthought?

Also, anyone have a picture of the ShrockWorks 1.5" body lift bracket for their front bumper? I have a feeling with how SW tends to be I may end up having to make one myself as I wanna maybe do a body lift by the end of the year.
 
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So debating on a 1.5" or 2.0" Body Lift for this summer if funds come together. It just occurred to me to ask you guys about this though...

What wires/lines did you guys have to extend and/or modify when you applied the body lift? I noticed one or two guys have had issues where ABS lines have stretched due to flexing after a body lift, it'd be easier for me to plan which lines I should make extensions for and such based on what you've all run in it. :)

Also if you guys could answer the post above this one that would be neat too. :)
 
I've got the Roger Brown 1.5" body lift and I did not have to extend any lines or wires. I still rub a tad on full lock in forward and worse in reverse. Current tires are Nitto Terra Grapplers size 285/70/17. I too plan on upgrading to 35's by losing my current suspension setup (spacer lift) and upgrading to radflo's in front and all pro lift springs in the rear. I am 2wd, so I can also look to lift spindles up front if necessary.

Here is a pic of how it sits currently.
 

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