Previologist
Member
any flywheel recommendations, or ones to avoid?
my boring clutch rebuild thread
- Thread starter Previologist
- Start date
Previologist
Member
Looking at some other forums with pics of cracked flywheels, mine doesn't look as bad as some others that people say can be machined and reused. I guess I will take it to the clutch shop and ask them, but I can't get there until Thursday. I took it to my 2 local parts stores and one (who I trust) said take it to the clutch shop for an opinion. The other, who I don't trust (Oreillys) said it was toast.
I really (no, REALLY) can't afford a new oem flywheel and I'm not sure what a good aftermarket option would be.
EDIT: found this thread Flywheel replacement brand
with a flywheel that looks pretty much like mine and Chuckles had success resurfacing it so hopefully I will too. I already read about the Luk ones and will avoid them.
I really (no, REALLY) can't afford a new oem flywheel and I'm not sure what a good aftermarket option would be.
EDIT: found this thread Flywheel replacement brand
with a flywheel that looks pretty much like mine and Chuckles had success resurfacing it so hopefully I will too. I already read about the Luk ones and will avoid them.
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Previologist
Member
I had to wait for payday to order the rest of what I need.
Upon close inspection I decided I need a new rear main seal. Was hoping to avoid that.
I ordered everything except the shifter seats, because I don't want to pay for the OEM tranny seat, the transfer case seat doesn't come without the whole subassembly, and I don't want to pay Marlin 11 bucks shipping for 2 freeekin seats. So I'm still thinking on that.
The only thing in the transfer case was a flat rubber washer. In the tranny there was a seat on top of a flat rubber washer. One or both were leaking. The breathers seem good.
Tomorrow to HF to get their slide hammer puller kit. Hopefully my real main arrives by the weekend so I can start reassembly. My exhaust gaskets are coming from UAE so there's no big rush lol
Upon close inspection I decided I need a new rear main seal. Was hoping to avoid that.
I ordered everything except the shifter seats, because I don't want to pay for the OEM tranny seat, the transfer case seat doesn't come without the whole subassembly, and I don't want to pay Marlin 11 bucks shipping for 2 freeekin seats. So I'm still thinking on that.
The only thing in the transfer case was a flat rubber washer. In the tranny there was a seat on top of a flat rubber washer. One or both were leaking. The breathers seem good.
Tomorrow to HF to get their slide hammer puller kit. Hopefully my real main arrives by the weekend so I can start reassembly. My exhaust gaskets are coming from UAE so there's no big rush lol
Previologist
Member
I have my clutch back in and am almost ready to install the tranny. But I noticed that my blocks supporting the oil pan aren't supporting it anymore. The engine has presumably shifted as a result. I don't know how much or bad this is, and I don't know if I should try to do something about it or not before installing the tranny. The only thing that looks off by eyeballing it is the front u-joint flange seems lower.
I'll check back in a day, a week or a year whenever this broken forum loads again, for your advice.
I'll check back in a day, a week or a year whenever this broken forum loads again, for your advice.
brillo_76
Elite Member
I would replace the flywheel with a resurface used one. Or a Lux as the oem flywheel is extremely costly. I believe Lux was one of the OEM supplier. However not 100% on that.
Previologist
Member
I would replace the flywheel with a resurface used one. Or a Lux as the oem flywheel is extremely costly. I believe Lux was one of the OEM supplier. However not 100% on that.
Mine was resurfaced and looks beautiful
brillo_76
Elite Member
Mine was resurfaced and looks beautiful
Yes that looks great...Good call.. Mine was blued and needs replaced...:-(
Previologist
Member
I think it looks decent to good considering the miles. It certainly isn't "chewed up"
At some angles it looks like there is more wear than I think there is, due to lighting, and it disappears at other angles. My fingernail doesn't feel much but I do think there is some minor wear. But that's my uneducated opinion
At some angles it looks like there is more wear than I think there is, due to lighting, and it disappears at other angles. My fingernail doesn't feel much but I do think there is some minor wear. But that's my uneducated opinion
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phattyduck
Elite Member
Clean that up really well and check it out. Its probably fine. You want the splines clean of build-up before putting on a very thin film of grease too.
The area of most concern is not there at the pilot bearing, but back on the snout that the throw-out bearing rides on.
Make sure you use an OEM TOB if that hasn't been mentioned in the thread before...
-Charlie
The area of most concern is not there at the pilot bearing, but back on the snout that the throw-out bearing rides on.
Make sure you use an OEM TOB if that hasn't been mentioned in the thread before...
-Charlie
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Previologist
Member
Sounds good, thanks all. I haven't cleaned it yet because I want to do it outside and the weather has been too miserable for most of the last couple weeks. Tomorrow is looking like the day. I also need to get it moved back a couple inches on the tranny jack.
I missed that on first read but yes, its a made-in-Japan NSK bearing in the Aisin CKT-40 clutch kit.
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Previologist
Member
That transfer case shifter seal is a B***** to find. Toyota doesn't seem to list it, they only list the sub-assembly which makes no sense to me because they list the tranny seat separately. Marlin has em but it costs at least 11 bucks to ship the little bastard that costs 12 bucks, and I aint paying 23 bucks for a little piece of rubber.
Oreilly's has this power steering pump shaft seal (whatever TF that is) but the fine print also says
[URL="https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c/precision/precision-oil-seal/ope0/221510/v/a/7920/automotive-suv-1997-toyota-4runner?#applications"]
Application for Your Vehicle
Transfer Case Shift Shaft Seal: Aisin RF1A, VF1A
so I ordered one for $3.69. Hope it works.
BTW, just like in Timmy's clutch video my original transfer case shifter seat was nowhere to be found. It either disintegrated completely, which seems odd because my tranny seat was fully present, or they never installed one. The only thing there was the rubber washer.
Oreilly's has this power steering pump shaft seal (whatever TF that is) but the fine print also says
[URL="https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c/precision/precision-oil-seal/ope0/221510/v/a/7920/automotive-suv-1997-toyota-4runner?#applications"]
Application for Your Vehicle
Transfer Case Shift Shaft Seal: Aisin RF1A, VF1A
so I ordered one for $3.69. Hope it works.
BTW, just like in Timmy's clutch video my original transfer case shifter seat was nowhere to be found. It either disintegrated completely, which seems odd because my tranny seat was fully present, or they never installed one. The only thing there was the rubber washer.
TucsonMike
Member
Good job on the work. I have 318k on my clutch and expect to be replacing it in the near future as well.
Question: Curious to know what tool U used to replace the rear main seal?
Thanks and good luck
MikeM
Question: Curious to know what tool U used to replace the rear main seal?
Thanks and good luck
MikeM
Previologist
Member
Damn I though 310K was a record. Tip of the hat to you for getting even more.
I used the $7.99 seal removal tool from Harbor Freight, which I surprisingly had laying around for some reason. I tapped the new one in with a wooden dowel and finished it with taps from the rounded tip of a 3/8 socket extension (1/4 might be better). i was dreading the rear main and was hoping to avoid doing it, but it was actually a piece of cake (fingers crossed that I did well).
Previologist
Member
So now I have the release bearing and fork properly and lightly greased and in place, but something doesn't seem quite right. It seems to work as it should, and I know the fork is on properly, but that clip on the bearing worries me. Gotta do more fiddling until I'm 100% certain. May have to post a video later if it doesn't start reassuring me.
Previologist
Member
Here is the question I'm encountering. When the fork is in hand, its easy to bring the retainer clip all the way onto it, like this:
In the picture above, the end of the clip is almost flush with the tines of the fork.
However, as seen in side view above, then the wings of the TOB don't ride on the rocker surface of the tine. So that must be wrong (right?).
When the clip overhangs the ends of the tines a bit, as below...
...the clip looks awkward but the tines and wings line up properly. This seems to me to be the right way, but when I move the release bearing back and forth when installed in this position the clip wants to work its way off. However I might be moving it farther than it actually moves when pressing the clutch, so maybe I worry about nothing. But I'd rather worry now and get it right than have to do it again!
(well my picture insertion within the text didn't work but they are in proper order so you can figure it out)
In the picture above, the end of the clip is almost flush with the tines of the fork.
However, as seen in side view above, then the wings of the TOB don't ride on the rocker surface of the tine. So that must be wrong (right?).
When the clip overhangs the ends of the tines a bit, as below...
...the clip looks awkward but the tines and wings line up properly. This seems to me to be the right way, but when I move the release bearing back and forth when installed in this position the clip wants to work its way off. However I might be moving it farther than it actually moves when pressing the clutch, so maybe I worry about nothing. But I'd rather worry now and get it right than have to do it again!
(well my picture insertion within the text didn't work but they are in proper order so you can figure it out)
