My New 2000 Limited 4x4 E-Locker
- Thread starter Novashards
- Start date
Novashards
Member
I finally installed a Scangauge 2 today!
I hadn't previously seen a mount that looked clean enough to want to mount a Scangauge in my 4runner. Then I saw this one posted.
Newly designed 3rd Gen Scangauge mount
It is a 3D printed scan gauge mount that fits into a JDM field unit monitor overhead console. I ordered an overhead console from Ebay for $30 and a Scangauge 2 from Advance Auto Parts for $120 after coupon. I purchased this mount adapter from the seller in the above thread for $25 and met him in person for pickup. He was responsive and helpful throughout the install process when I had questions. He sent me these pictures. You will be removing the four phillips screws from the back of your SG2 and taking it apart. Set aside the internals safely. Then you'll be using a Dremel to file down the lighter highlighted areas. (I didn't own a Dremel so I just used a hand file and it still turned out nicely)
For the front: file down the outer curved lip on the top and bottom so that it is flat from corner to corner. Leave the inner lip intact.
For the back: You'll be filing down the ends of the case. I just used a file flat against each end and filed down both corners and the side rectangle until the rectangle tab was gone and level.
Then You'll place the internals back in the SG and gently screw the smaller 3D bezel printed bezel in between the two halves of the case. Then hold the smaller bezel against the outside of the FMU overhead console and the larger 3D printed bezel against the inside of the overhead console and screw them gently together with the included screws. The overhead console is held in with a single phillips screw under the light bulb cover. The console should then slide out towards you and you'll have a single plug to undo. My plug fit perfectly in the JDM console plug and lights and sunroof are working. I bought a ethernet cable extender ran it through the roof liner and down the driver side "A" pillar and up through the dash to the center console. If removing the driver's side grab handle be very careful. These screws are very soft! I used an impact driver and it worked but still slightly deformed the head of the screws. They are held in with blue Loctite. I coiled the extra cord in the center console near the OBD-II plug. I think this mod turned out really great and I'm happy I waited for such a clean solution to mounting the Scangauge 2.
I hadn't previously seen a mount that looked clean enough to want to mount a Scangauge in my 4runner. Then I saw this one posted.
Newly designed 3rd Gen Scangauge mount
It is a 3D printed scan gauge mount that fits into a JDM field unit monitor overhead console. I ordered an overhead console from Ebay for $30 and a Scangauge 2 from Advance Auto Parts for $120 after coupon. I purchased this mount adapter from the seller in the above thread for $25 and met him in person for pickup. He was responsive and helpful throughout the install process when I had questions. He sent me these pictures. You will be removing the four phillips screws from the back of your SG2 and taking it apart. Set aside the internals safely. Then you'll be using a Dremel to file down the lighter highlighted areas. (I didn't own a Dremel so I just used a hand file and it still turned out nicely)
For the front: file down the outer curved lip on the top and bottom so that it is flat from corner to corner. Leave the inner lip intact.
For the back: You'll be filing down the ends of the case. I just used a file flat against each end and filed down both corners and the side rectangle until the rectangle tab was gone and level.
Then You'll place the internals back in the SG and gently screw the smaller 3D bezel printed bezel in between the two halves of the case. Then hold the smaller bezel against the outside of the FMU overhead console and the larger 3D printed bezel against the inside of the overhead console and screw them gently together with the included screws. The overhead console is held in with a single phillips screw under the light bulb cover. The console should then slide out towards you and you'll have a single plug to undo. My plug fit perfectly in the JDM console plug and lights and sunroof are working. I bought a ethernet cable extender ran it through the roof liner and down the driver side "A" pillar and up through the dash to the center console. If removing the driver's side grab handle be very careful. These screws are very soft! I used an impact driver and it worked but still slightly deformed the head of the screws. They are held in with blue Loctite. I coiled the extra cord in the center console near the OBD-II plug. I think this mod turned out really great and I'm happy I waited for such a clean solution to mounting the Scangauge 2.
Go-Fast Boat
New member
Sweet rig. $4,500 is a steal for that! I'm always curious how the used vehicle market is different from state to state. Something like that for a price like that is hard to come by here in Texas.
phattyduck
Elite Member
Probably not. That is the JDM (errrr... non-US) housing used for the field monitor - not the sunglasses / garage door opener holder on the '99+ US trucks.
Make sure the housing you get matches your sunroof button style or non-sunroof housing.
-Charlie
Joelzy
New member
ahhhhhh would've helped if i had read that part, huh?
i havent seen anything about people upgrading to the newer style with an older setup but are you're it cannot be done? i'll probably be ripping it all down and redoing it regardless once i decide to fix my sunroof so i'd imagine rewiring wouldnt be too bad at that point.
/threadjack sorry
phattyduck
Elite Member
You can install the updated console - I don't know how the sunroof wiring/control issue is handled through (yay no sunroof for me!). I do remember a thread on it here somewhere...
-Charlie
4Runner4Leon
Senior Member
Novashards
Member
I finally got the undercoating done before any of the roads got salted. I ordered the 5 gallon bucket of fluid film and pro spray gun kit from Amazon. It was a big initial investment but should be plenty of fluid film for several years between my 4runner and Suburban. It took about an hour, taking my time. I removed the spare tire and skid plates to help reach all areas. The spray gun worked very well. I didn't warm up any bottles like some people say they have. I used them at ambient garage temps of 50-60 degrees with the air compressor regulator set to about 75-80psi. I used the extension hoses to spray hard to reach areas and all along the insides of all frame rails and cross members. I think it turned out pretty well. What do you think?
Fluid Film
Amazon.com: Fluid Film Rust & Corrosion Protection Control Multi Purpose Penetrant & Lubricant 5 Gallon: Industrial & Scientific
Pro Spray Gun Kit
Amazon.com: kellsport Fluid Film & Woolwax Pro Undercoating Gun: Automotive
Fluid Film
Amazon.com: Fluid Film Rust & Corrosion Protection Control Multi Purpose Penetrant & Lubricant 5 Gallon: Industrial & Scientific
Pro Spray Gun Kit
Amazon.com: kellsport Fluid Film & Woolwax Pro Undercoating Gun: Automotive
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Novashards
Member
I got around to doing the Fluid Film treatment for the season. Used two bottles on my old suburban and two bottles on the 4 runner. I seem to have gone through almost half the 5 gallon bucket in two years with only one application per year, right before snow and salting starts. I bought the 5 gallon bucket and application kit off amazon and it works very well. I like that it came with the hose to stick inside the frame rail to make sure that gets treated as well.
Fluid Film 5 Gallon Bucket
Fluid Film Undercoating Gun
The frame did seem to have some residue from the fluid film after a year but was dry in other areas. Should I start doing the treatments twice a year to make sure the frame stays safe or do you think like I'm doing it now is fine?
Fluid Film 5 Gallon Bucket
Fluid Film Undercoating Gun
The frame did seem to have some residue from the fluid film after a year but was dry in other areas. Should I start doing the treatments twice a year to make sure the frame stays safe or do you think like I'm doing it now is fine?
Novashards
Member
So I totaled and rebuilt my 4runner. Details are in the thread here;
Totaled!
Luckily buying it back and fixing it left me with a decent chunk of extra money so I decided to pay the extra to replace the standard hood with a hood scoop.
I had replaced the stock radiator with a Denso in 2018. It had been fine but the accident bent and dented it. The body shop bent it back when they straightened the radiator and fender support and it did not appear to have any leaks but with the plastic end caps especially I decided to just go ahead and upgrade it to an all aluminum radiator. I believe the standard one is a two row and the aluminum one I bought is a three row. I bought the CC1988 from Champion Radiators.
Champion Radiator CC1988
Also available via Jegs
Champion Radiator CC1988
It came packaged very well and had no shipping damage to the box or radiator. It included the radiator cap and the two connections for the built-in transmission cooler. It fit nicely in the stock location without having to remove the condenser. The factory shroud and fan even still fit just fit with plenty of room. I did replace the four radiator bolts because the original ones were very worn the threads weren't grabbing. I bought 4x 8mmx1.25pitchx20mm length bolts to replace them. It has been about 40K miles since the last cooling system flush so I went ahead and replaced all the coolant with new Toyota Red from the local Toyota dealer including the reservoir.
Totaled!
Luckily buying it back and fixing it left me with a decent chunk of extra money so I decided to pay the extra to replace the standard hood with a hood scoop.
I had replaced the stock radiator with a Denso in 2018. It had been fine but the accident bent and dented it. The body shop bent it back when they straightened the radiator and fender support and it did not appear to have any leaks but with the plastic end caps especially I decided to just go ahead and upgrade it to an all aluminum radiator. I believe the standard one is a two row and the aluminum one I bought is a three row. I bought the CC1988 from Champion Radiators.
Champion Radiator CC1988
Also available via Jegs
Champion Radiator CC1988
It came packaged very well and had no shipping damage to the box or radiator. It included the radiator cap and the two connections for the built-in transmission cooler. It fit nicely in the stock location without having to remove the condenser. The factory shroud and fan even still fit just fit with plenty of room. I did replace the four radiator bolts because the original ones were very worn the threads weren't grabbing. I bought 4x 8mmx1.25pitchx20mm length bolts to replace them. It has been about 40K miles since the last cooling system flush so I went ahead and replaced all the coolant with new Toyota Red from the local Toyota dealer including the reservoir.
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poleclimber63
Member
Nice truck!
Just spotted your post and had a read. Great find back in 2018! You did everything I did back in 12' when I found mine- and then some! I have the same suspension setup as you. I'm so glad I'm out West Coast, so that yearly fluid film looks to be a pia... something though, that is essential in the Midwest or rust belt! I was sorry to hear about the accident--- insurance writes anything off on a whim thats>15yrs old but luckily it wasn't too bad if you were able to fix it with something left over. Considering the overall condition of the truck , it could have been tragic-- luckily no one was hurt... I've done that with 2 vehicles in the past...
thanks for sharing!
Just spotted your post and had a read. Great find back in 2018! You did everything I did back in 12' when I found mine- and then some! I have the same suspension setup as you. I'm so glad I'm out West Coast, so that yearly fluid film looks to be a pia... something though, that is essential in the Midwest or rust belt! I was sorry to hear about the accident--- insurance writes anything off on a whim thats>15yrs old but luckily it wasn't too bad if you were able to fix it with something left over. Considering the overall condition of the truck , it could have been tragic-- luckily no one was hurt... I've done that with 2 vehicles in the past...
thanks for sharing!
BABYTOYODA
New member
wow that looks great I always wanted to learn brakes but scared lol
BABYTOYODA
New member
that is a very sweet ride.... do you still have it? how many miles on it now?
Novashards
Member
Its been awhile since my last post. I've really just been doing routine maintenance. I'm up to 296k miles.
I recently heard a clunk in the rear and upon investigation I found that the passenger side upper shock mount has rusted and broken away. Surprisingly the shock I had installed years ago was still good so I cleaned up the threads with a tap& die set and reused it.
I had seen this occur to others in the forums so I was a bit prepared. I decided to go with this as the solution.
Iconic Fabrication 1996-2002 4runner Outboard Shock Mount Brackets
I have never welded but picked up a cheap $100 YesWelder machine and decided to go with flux core mig because it seemed to be the easiest option for a rookie.
YESWELDER 135Amp MIG Welder,110V Flux Core Welder Flux Core MIG/Lift TIG/Stick 3-in-1 Large LED Digital Display Welding Machine IGBT Inverter Welder FLUX-135PRO
Lincoln Electric ED030584 Inner Shield NR-211 Flux-Core Welding Wire, .035-In.
After a few practice passes on some scraps metal I welded the brackets together and then prepped and welded the brackets to the frame. I painted it with some black high temp grill spray paint I had laying around. I did this to both sides so the other side is ready for when it is needed. I know the welds aren't the best but I think they will be sufficient for their task.
I recently heard a clunk in the rear and upon investigation I found that the passenger side upper shock mount has rusted and broken away. Surprisingly the shock I had installed years ago was still good so I cleaned up the threads with a tap& die set and reused it.
I had seen this occur to others in the forums so I was a bit prepared. I decided to go with this as the solution.
Iconic Fabrication 1996-2002 4runner Outboard Shock Mount Brackets
I have never welded but picked up a cheap $100 YesWelder machine and decided to go with flux core mig because it seemed to be the easiest option for a rookie.
YESWELDER 135Amp MIG Welder,110V Flux Core Welder Flux Core MIG/Lift TIG/Stick 3-in-1 Large LED Digital Display Welding Machine IGBT Inverter Welder FLUX-135PRO
Lincoln Electric ED030584 Inner Shield NR-211 Flux-Core Welding Wire, .035-In.
After a few practice passes on some scraps metal I welded the brackets together and then prepped and welded the brackets to the frame. I painted it with some black high temp grill spray paint I had laying around. I did this to both sides so the other side is ready for when it is needed. I know the welds aren't the best but I think they will be sufficient for their task.
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walkercars2
New member
That’s a great deal where i’m from anyways, hope ya enjoy it!
Novashards
Member
I completed my 300K mile services including;
Timing belt/water pump/thermostat
Transmission fluid & filter/Differentials/transfer case fluid changes.
Front lower ball joints and bolts.
Spark Plugs
My cruise control power button randomly started honking my horn as well, and vice-versa. I suspected a bad clock-spring, I found a cheap one on Ebay, hopefully it isn't short-lived. I disconnected the battery for a few hours before I started working to allow the airbag electronics time to discharge before I disconnected anything. I removed the steering wheel using Timmy the Toolman's steering wheel swap Youtube video. I was able to remove the steering wheel without much trouble without any special tools by turning it until it locked, then pushing/pulling side to side forcefully. I got the new clock-spring installed and everything seems to be working normally again.
Steering Wheel Replacement
Spiral Cable Clock Spring For Toyota 4Runner Camry Land Cruiser RAV4 Lexus IS300
Timing belt/water pump/thermostat
Transmission fluid & filter/Differentials/transfer case fluid changes.
Front lower ball joints and bolts.
Spark Plugs
My cruise control power button randomly started honking my horn as well, and vice-versa. I suspected a bad clock-spring, I found a cheap one on Ebay, hopefully it isn't short-lived. I disconnected the battery for a few hours before I started working to allow the airbag electronics time to discharge before I disconnected anything. I removed the steering wheel using Timmy the Toolman's steering wheel swap Youtube video. I was able to remove the steering wheel without much trouble without any special tools by turning it until it locked, then pushing/pulling side to side forcefully. I got the new clock-spring installed and everything seems to be working normally again.
Steering Wheel Replacement
Spiral Cable Clock Spring For Toyota 4Runner Camry Land Cruiser RAV4 Lexus IS300
