Need help getting blend door actuator out - pics included

[ndjs22]

Hey guys, I'm trying to replace this part on my 2004 4runner, SR5. It does not have dual climate zones.

Backstory is my car has been making the grinding/buzzing sound from behind the dash/next to glovebox on startup for about a month. Started happening immediately after Toyota dealership replaced dash under old recall, but they are saying it's unrelated. Probably so given how many problems people seem to have had with them. The sound usually lasts about 10 seconds and then quits. Doesn't return regardless of how I adjust temperature. The only issue is I only ever get cold air now, no heat whatsoever.

I've got the glovebox and panel below it removed, along with the ductwork for passenger floor heat, which you can see in the pictures.

I've identified the problem part (though I will need some help identifying the correct replacement part number to order if possible) and confirmed it by disconnecting it. When disconnected - no noise at all.

I've read everything on this forum and others I can find about this part and it seems as though most people can get to the three screws on their own, but I must be missing something. I can get to and remove the bottom left screw easily. I can touch the bottom right screw but can't get a tool in place to actually unscrew it. I can't even get a tool to or reach the top right screw. Unfortunately since it's not a newer vehicle a lot of the threads with photos or videos of replacing this part are now dead links.

I tried to photograph everything I thought would be useful for y'all, and would be incredibly appreciative of any help!

Several photos and more explanation here:
https://imgur.com/a/apO6l

 

[ndjs22]

Well I did manage to get the bottom right screw undone. Still have no clue how to reach that top right, and now that the bracket can swing a bit, I'm not even sure that the screw I thought was the top right screw is the correct one.

 

[keakar]

Well I did manage to get the bottom right screw undone. Still have no clue how to reach that top right, and now that the bracket can swing a bit, I'm not even sure that the screw I thought was the top right screw is the correct one.

seems pretty obvious that you need to remove the fan section of the box there and get that out of the way first so you can access the crews and replace the actuator and that "might" mean removing the dash

 

[ndjs22]

Ugh, I just had Toyota put a new dash in and really didn't want to have to take this out lol. Also didn't want to pay >$400 for something that seemed an easier fix.

Do you have any advice on how to remove those parts? I'm about to start reading but any info you've got would help to. Thanks!

 

[<<<<]

Something like this might reach in there:

https://www.amazon.com/Anex-425-Low-Profile-Ratchet/dp/B0028DDD2Y

 

[ndjs22]

I've got a tool similar to that one, though I appreciate it! My problem is I just can't even reach that top right screw. I've seen other posters in the past discussing that screw being difficult to reach, but this seems just outright impossible.

I guess I need some direction on how to remove the blower assembly and whatever else is in the way if anybody has had to do this before.

 

[TowMeOut]

I didn't get one yet but I'm looking at something like this.

https://www.dhgate.com/product/professional-right-angle-90-degree-rotary/396630554.html

I'm going to have to replace my recirculation actuatutor soon but I don't think it's quite as much of a bear to reach the fasteners.

The little ratcheting screwdrivers work fine for most tight spots but often there's just no space to move them back and forth. I got one of these 90-degree screwdrivers in a kit years ago from Sears but one of the tips snapped first use so I returned it. So far I haven't had a need for one since. This might be the time I reinvest in such a device.

 

[AuSeeker]

I would recommend a flexiable drill extension with a right angle attachment, like or similar to this one.

Flexible Flex Shaft Quick Change Driver Angle Extension For Mag Screwdriver Bits

The flexiable extension may work alone if not then hopefully the right angle attactment will do the job.

 

[ndjs22]

I would recommend a flexiable drill extension with a right angle attachment, like or similar to this one.

Flexible Flex Shaft Quick Change Driver Angle Extension For Mag Screwdriver Bits

The flexiable extension may work alone if not then hopefully the right angle attactment will do the job.

This is definitely the best bet I've got for not having to remove the whole blower assembly. I'll probably go grab one tomorrow and see if I can make it work. If not, I guess I'll be ripping everything out! Thanks.

 

[Joex481]

This is definitely the best bet I've got for not having to remove the whole blower assembly. I'll probably go grab one tomorrow and see if I can make it work. If not, I guess I'll be ripping everything out! Thanks.

Good luck. Don't buy a new part just yet; check this out first. This trick worked for me.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s9S5B1Dn3j4

I did this fix on my air mode damper servo. I'm not sure if the actuator is similar to to the blend door one; but I wouldn't be surprised. This works like a charm, but I can't help you on the removal part, since I ended up bending a bracket to avoid removing the fan... It works fine so it's never bothered me.

Edit:
Saw your pictures and I'm pretty sure it's the same kind of actuator.

 

[ndjs22]

Good luck. Don't buy a new part just yet; check this out first. This trick worked for me.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s9S5B1Dn3j4

I did this fix on my air mode damper servo. I'm not sure if the actuator is similar to to the blend door one; but I wouldn't be surprised. This works like a charm, but I can't help you on the removal part, since I ended up bending a bracket to avoid removing the fan... It works fine so it's never bothered me.

Edit:
Saw your pictures and I'm pretty sure it's the same kind of actuator.

Oh that's an awesome video. I bookmarked it in case I ever get the part out. Thanks!!!

 

[ndjs22]

Replying in case anybody in the future happens across this post.

Unfortunately I won't be any help. I tried a flexible shaft angle extension as suggested by AuSeeker but I couldn't get the bit seated in the screw head well enough that I trusted it not to strip so I decided not to try it. I definitely didn't want to get into pulling the whole dash.

I gave up and just put her back together. Was going to bite the bullet on paying somebody to repair it, and then a miracle happened. It works. It works fine now. No grinding, no bubbling, no clicking, AND I have heat!

So my advice to anybody who reads this later is just take it about halfway apart, give up for a day, then give up for good and put it back together. Worked for me!

I'm just going to go ahead and add another $400 to the emergency fund though, at least now if it does go out over the coming winter I won't have to worry about money if I get it fixed.

I really appreciate all the help from y'all. I know I'm not a frequent poster but I creep a lot. I've been here for about 2 and a half years and this was my first post. Thanks again!

 

[TowMeOut]

Good to know..... I think one of the posters here or on one of the YouTube videos suggested running the temp all the way to MAX, then back down to LO and up/down a few times. It lets the computer re-learn the limits on the actuator sort of like one of the zero-point calibrations. I don't know if that works but maybe your tinkering or having it unplugged did kind of the same thing.

 

[Atlanta_man]

Way to go. I like to be proven wrong when I tell folks that mechanical problems never heal themselves.

 

[ndjs22]

Good to know..... I think one of the posters here or on one of the YouTube videos suggested running the temp all the way to MAX, then back down to LO and up/down a few times. It lets the computer re-learn the limits on the actuator sort of like one of the zero-point calibrations. I don't know if that works but maybe your tinkering or having it unplugged did kind of the same thing.

I actually tried doing that several times and didn't have any luck. My hypothesis is that one of the pins from the actuator got off the track in the lever. I couldn't quite get the rear one to seat in the track, but figured it didn't matter since I was planning on taking it to the shop anyways so I set the actuator pin on the lever but not in the track. When I cranked it up I heard a slight "pop" or click noise, just once. I think the actuator moved and I got lucky that it moved the right direction and popped into place instead of back out. If it had gone the other way I'd be out $400+ by now.

 

[agc00per]

Just replaced the actuator, some tips:

1) When removing the glove box door, unscrew the damper on the right side before pulling off the door. #2 Phillips screw.

2) Open the glove box door and bend the door/fascia to get past the catches on either side of the door. Pull off the door hinges by pulling straight back when open all the way.

3) Remove the black panel above the glove box, 4x #2 screws, two on each side.

4) Remove the panel below the glove box (black plastic). One #2 screw and three clips (pull off in a downwards direction from the front). I left the connectors attached and just set it down on the carpet.

5) With the ignition on (motor doesn't need to be running) turn on recirculation to open the door at the top of the blower box. Turn off the ignition.

6) Pull out the cabin air filter.

7) Remove the black duct on the left side. There is a clip at the top and one behind (also at the upper end). Not sure how to unclip the lower one, I ended up breaking off a piece of the tab it latches onto.

8) Undo the nearest lower screw of the actuator. This can be done with a long screwdriver (#2).

9) Undo the rear lower screw. This one is visible and can be reached from below using a low profile right angle ratchet. Something like the one pictured higher up in the thread.

10) For the rear upper screw, I could not figure out any way to reach it. Searching online didn't reveal any solutions except to drill a hole through the side of the blower box to access the screw. I measured (approx) the distance back of the screw and drilled a 1/2" hole in the left side of the box using a Forstner bit and a right angle drive. Using a mirror below I was able to see the screw and get to it with a long screwdriver, actually with the hole drilled it was pretty easy. Be careful, there are two screws there close by, one through the metal bracket, one into plastic. Make sure you undo the right one!

11) Reassemble in the reverse order. Make sure the two drive pins on the actuator go into the slots in the white plastic levers. The levers move easily so you can line them up once the actuator is in place. I put a piece of sticky tape over the 1/2" hole to seal it up.

Knowing what to do and having the right tools, this is probably a 1 hour job.

 

[tommyv]

I was unsuccessful in replacing this myself. I am somewhat handy but clearly not nearly handy enough. I had my mechanic do the work and it was $860 parts and labor to replace the blend door actuator for reference. mine chirped for years but I still had heat and AC until about a month ago, at which point I had zero heat. I had to bite the bullet and just get it done.

 

[88Center]

Full writeup on replacing those two actuators

Replacing AC Servos / Actuators