New antenna leads to no start

[THOR_runner]

86 runner, automatic, DLX, pre factory starter relay that is normally mounted on passenger side engine compartment. Rerouted an antenna yesterday through the area of the passenger footwell side kick plate and now the truck isn't starting. Similar to the click no start issue I was having months ago, but resolved that with a hot shot relay from painless and on occasion needing the jump wire. Jump wire works 100% of the time so battery is good as well as rebuilt starter. That leaves the C.O.R. and the ignition switch/wiring. I've been meaning to replace the ignition switch and maybe it's just finally completely failed. But I was working in the area of the COR yesterday and moved the big bundle of wires that goes through the firewall around when I was fishing the antenna cable around. Obviously I need to replace the ignition switch based in needing the jump wire from time to time, but working in that area yesterday has me thinking otherwise. Where would your you start? I have today off, but need the truck as my daily driver so I don't want to dig deeper than necessary. Am I missing another component of the starting system?

 

[THOR_runner]

Toyed around to make sure all the wires were intact. Started to get no clicks from COR. And randomly the truck starts a few times. then randomly will start to turn over for half a second and won't start at all. And then randomly turn the key and nothing. No click and no start. Could this be the COR failing. I've tried looking at the relay test instructions and I'm not really following them.

 

[RAD4Runner]

C.O.R. will click when you put ign switch in start position. However, it does not affect cranking. C.O.R. belongs to eth fuel system, not cranking system.

IF you wire your hot shot system properly, there should be no need to replace ignition switch. However, it is possible that 28 years of running 12amps needed to energize the starter solenoid had taken its toll on the ST1 contacts of IGN switch (thanks to the brilliant Toyota electrical engineers from those days ).

Inspect your wires. You may have broken a connection. Possibly the wires that connect both C.O.R. and starter solenoid to the ignition switch ST1 contacts, or the neutral safety switch? Do both starter solenoid and C.O.R take power from NSS?

Unfortunately, I do not have the schematic for22RE automatic readily available.

 

[KidVermicious]

Am I missing another component of the starting system?

Nope, it's pretty basic. Voltage from the ST1 contact in the ignition runs straight to the starter. If yours is an auto there's a neutral safety switch, and if yours is a manual there might be a clutch cancel switch, my '85 doesn't have one. Other than that it's a straight path. Obviously you added the Hotshot between the starter circuit and the starter, but you know where all that is.

Get out your multimeter, turn the key, look for 12v going into the Hotshot from the crank wire. It's probably not there, which would mean RAD is right and your ignition contacts are shot or you broke a wire. If the ignition is good, the right way to fix it is to pull that harness and find the broken wire and fix it, the easy way is to splice new wire parallel to the original path.

 

[THOR_runner]

Being that the truck is my daily driver, I tracked down a COR in town and put it in. With my oRiley's discount I was able to pick it up for $45. I normally don't like to just throw parts at it if I am uncertain, as I bought the truck to learn more about vehicles, but, probably coincidentally (hopefully not), it worked. I say coincidentally because I've read and as RAD mentioned, the COR has nothing to do with crank.

Now on to the u joints/ driveshaft, stabilizer bar links, whole new exhaust, rear axle seals and bearings and tracking down the weird grinding sound coming from the rear end/drive shaft. Oh, and taking this terrible lift off, lol. Never ending battle, but that's ok.

 

[THOR_runner]

Spoke too soon, just happened again. However got the click from the COR unlike yesterday. This one sounds different though, more like a ping. Different relay different sound I guess. At least this time the jumper will work. I think it's on to the ignition switch.

 

[THOR_runner]

Took the ignition switch apart and investigated. It was really oily/greasy so I wiped it down. The copper contacts appear to show wear, so maybe I need to replace this part of the ignition switch. Btw, if you ever decide to do this, watch out for the little ball bearings that can shoot out of the sides of the small brown piece. Luckily I had my wife there talking to me and she has eagle eyes and found the stray ball.

The assembly, disassembled.

Tiny balls

The worn copper piece

 

[THOR_runner]

I do like to get down to the root of problems normally, but this starting the truck with a jumper every time and opening the hood when I want to start is getting old. The only other thing I can think to fix on the starting system is the ignition switch. But in the mean time, obviously brushing the problem under the rug, would there be any problem with a temporary push button jumper in the cab of the vehicle? One end connected to the starter, the other end to the battery, with a momentary switch in the middle. I imagine a fuse on the battery side would also be good. Thoughts?