New guy with alot of questions on SAS

Nitro

New member
Hello All,

I recently purchase a 93 4runnner w/3vz-e 6cyl 5spd and all original equip. My first task is to upgrade the suspension to make it a mean trail machine.

I plan on going with the Downey HD rear coils and Bilstein 5100's for the rear, and I want to start accumulating/making the parts I need to do the SAS to get rid of the IFS that I keep breaking when off-roading.

My biggest concern is what hub-to-hub axle set I should get now because my gear ratio is 4.56 and I believe the first gen toy's are 4.10?

Any input ya'all might have would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks!

-Nitro

PS I'm doing this on a budget so I'd be interested in any used parts ya'all might have for sale, and I'll be fabbing anything I can.
 
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Assuming your using Toyota front axle, just find the best deal you can get, re-gear if needed.

I wouldn't worry about getting a perfect, complete axle either.
You'll want to rebuild it before using it (after all, it'll be at least 20 yrs old). While your doing this you can upgrade the brakes, and add cross-over steering.
 
Thanks for the input.

So, you're saying I can use my orig. gears in the old toyota axle?

I think that I will need stronger brakes anyway because I plan on getting larger wheels/tires. What do you reccomend by the way of brakes?

-Nitro
 
Nitro said:
Thanks for the input.

So, you're saying I can use my orig. gears in the old toyota axle?


If you mean use your IFS front gears in the solid axle, no.
IFS has 7.5" ring while solid axle has 8" ring gear.
You'll have to buy a new R&P for the front that matches the rear ratio. Unless you happen to get real lucky and find a front axle w/the ratio you need. Actually, it may be easier and definetely cheaper, to buy a used 3rd w/the ratio you need.

I think that I will need stronger brakes anyway because I plan on getting larger wheels/tires. What do you reccomend by the way of brakes?-Nitro

Get vented rotors for an 81-83 Land Cruiser and your V6 IFS calipers. Both will bolt right up to the solid axle and instant better brakes. (No, you can't use your IFS rotors, has to be LC.)
You'll probably need/want longer brake lines too.
 
Sweet!

I do have an 8" R&P! But, I have heard that the IFS gears will not be the same?

Thanks for the rotor tip. I'm going to Pull'n'Save this weekend hoping to get lucky. I'm also going to try to find a Taurus or Volvo fan to swap out mine to improve my fuel efficiency because I commute 60 miles/day.

Also, do you have any tips on what I should buy for the steering (for the SAS)? i.e. is there anything I might be able to use from the junkyard?

Thanks!
 
Nitro said:
Sweet!

I do have an 8" R&P! But, I have heard that the IFS gears will not be the same?

As I said above, IFS front uses 7.5" ring gear while solid axle trucks use 8" front and rear.
7.5 does not equal 8, therefore they are not interchangeable

Also, do you have any tips on what I should buy for the steering (for the SAS)? i.e. is there anything I might be able to use from the junkyard?

No junkyard steering parts. Cross-over steering is an aftermarket speciality item. Complete kit is ~$400 and uses the IFS steering box you already have. Vendors such as Marlin, All Pro, Sky, OTT, etc sell it.
 
Thanks for your help. I thought it was odd that I have an 8", but according to the code on the inside of my door: "g254", and the guide I found online:

1ST DIGIT R&P SIZE 2nd/3rd Digit R&P RATIO 4th DIGIT PINION SET-UP
A 138mm O1 3.30 2 2 pinion
B 145mm O2 3.36 3 2 pinion LSD
C 6.25" O3 3.55 4 4 pinion
D 6.62" O4 3.56 5 4 pinion LSD
E 7.1" O5 3.70
F 7.5" O6 3.89
G 8.0" O7 3.90
H 9.0" O8 4.11
J 9.25" O9 4.22
K 9.5" 10 4.38
L 10.5" 11 4.44
M 12.5" 12 4.63
N 13.5" 13 4.79
P 14" 14 4.88
R 162mm 15 5.13
S 6.38" 16 5.29
T 6.7" 17 5.60
U 6" 18 5.71
V 10.6" 19 5.83
W 15.5" 20 6.17
X 142mm 21 6.67
Y 158mm 22 6.78
23 6.83
24 7.64
25 4.56
26 5.57
27 3.36
28 4.30
29 4.10
30 3.73
31 3.91
32 6.59
33 7.50
34 6.78
35 7.64
36 4.78
37 3.58
38 3.42

I have an 8" ring gear, 4.56 gear ratio, and 4-pinion set up. Is this table wrong?:confused:
 
You decoded the table correctly.
Bare in mind that it is for the rear axle only.
Your IFS front axle has the same ratio, but a 7.5" ring gear and 2 bolt pinion.
 
there is going to be a lot more involved in a SAS than just buying a new axle and throwing it under the truck. to successfully do a SAS on a 2nd gen 4runner be prepared to spend some money because it wont be cheap. the most effective way to do it would probably be to get a kit from marlincrawler.com or from allprooffroad.com. those are the two kits talked about most. those will set you back about 1500 bucks not including an axle. depending if that axle is built or not will determine how much work needs to be done to it. if you do a SAS you might as well forget about doing those new downey coils in the rear because youre going to have to upgrade to leaf springs in the rear too. that kit will set you back about another 800 bucks or so from allprooffroad.com. these are just the main things i can think of off the top of my head. im sure there are plenty more things to do. dont get me wrong, i would love to do a SAS myself, but it is very expensive and i just wanted to put that into perspective for you so you know what youre up against. dont do it the cheap way or youll regret it.
 
4x4Ratty said:
if you do a SAS you might as well forget about doing those new downey coils in the rear because youre going to have to upgrade to leaf springs in the rear too.

Why would he want to or need to "upgrade" to leafs ?
Leafs would be a down grade.
The coils give a better ride on road and articulate better of road.
 
Last edited:
fourwd1 said:
Why would he want to or need to "upgrade" to leafs ?
Leafs would be a down grade.
The coils give a better ride on road and articulate better of road.

they may articulate better. i wouldnt want to go to leaves personally either but most if not all SAS swaps ive seen on 3rd gens and 2nd gens use leaves in the back because you wont be able to get enough lift for rear with that SAS up front. if possible to get enough lift from coils, by all means, i would agree, stick with them.
 
How much you might need to raise the back to match the front after a SAS depends on how much lift you build into the SAS.

Between other coils (I'd use LC coils instead of Heavy Duty coils) and coil spacers, it can be done.
 

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