Nitto Ridge Grappler?

Yeah I was thinking the 265's would suffice to get the extra grip of the RG's. My Terra's still have plenty of tread but I'm going to be doing a lot of traveling this summer so will probably be looking for new rubber in the fall.

Could you put up a pic so I can see how they look?
pm sent
 
Those do look good and I definitely want better grip off road so this is something I will consider. Thanks.

With no lift and a 285, you will rub EVERYTHING off road. Not a good idea, stick with a 275/70 if you don't plan to lift. Or go with crazy extended bump stops to limit up travel by pretty much all of it lol.
 
With no lift and a 285, you will rub EVERYTHING off road. Not a good idea, stick with a 275/70 if you don't plan to lift. Or go with crazy extended bump stops to limit up travel by pretty much all of it lol.

I was still thinking KO2's when I wrote that. Definitely won't be cramming the 285 RG's in there.
 
Yeah I won't be going bigger than 275's. I might just go with the RG's in 265.

Not a bad plan either way. The RG runs big so even a 265 will look great. Just be careful with them in the rain for the first 3500 miles or so. They are TERRIBLE until they get a few miles on them. I had to really tone my driving down after I went from the KO2 to the RG and was very unhappy with them. A couple friends experienced the same thing and said give it time, they will get better. Glad I listened because I love everything else about the tires and they were right.
 
285 KO2 will still rub everywhere with no lift if you plan on wheeling it.

Thank you. So, I just read through all 38 pages of the thread and on the very last page....got my question answered.

Basically...was reading and reading threads and getting confused because some people say 285s fit just fine in a stock suspension with a fender mod (as long as you buy the appropriate fitting wheels (offset, width, etc)). Others say you need a lift.

It sounds like both are right.

I read this before but it didn't fully click ->
www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/208403-changing-tire-size-wheels-read-first.html

It states:

Ride height - This one is a bit tricky. In general, more ride height/lift is going to increase clearance for larger tires. BUT...just because the vehicle typically rides at this height does not mean that the suspension stays there in dynamic conditions as the suspension cycles. Most people are going to run a 2-3" lift with larger tires, after all why run larger tires unless you plan to off-road where you will need better approach and departure angles in the first place. The reality is that the tires still have to clear when the suspension is fully compressed and fully extended. If you just plan to run your 5th gen on the street with large tires (often called a mall crawler), it might be possible to clear very large tires (35s) with just a suspension lift... If you actually pan to off-road it, you need to consider how the tires clear the fenders as the suspension is fully compressed. For 33" tires, there is simply nothing to mess with here as long as all the other factors above are considered.

But it didn't really click. Mainly...because in the middle of the paragraph its talking about 35s. And then for 33s it says ->

For 33" tires, there is simply nothing to mess with here as long as all the other factors above are considered.

But...I didn't know exactly what "all the other factors above are considered". I thought it was the beginning of the whole post/article or something.

Now...if I'm right in my understanding.....you can run 285s with a stock suspension with only minor modifications. As long as its ON THE ROAD. (though I don't know what would happen if you hit a speed bump hard).

If I'm going offroading where the suspension is going over large rocks or ruts in the road and getting compressed...then it would be a huge problem running stock suspension. The wheel would start rubbing everywhere in the wheel well. A lift would be required so there is more space in the wheel well to handle the larger tire when suspension gets compressed. --- For 33" tires, there is simply nothing to mess with here as long as all the other factors above are considered, LIKE HAVING THE TRUCK LIFTED 2-3". ----

If I'm wrong on this....please call me out.
 
Thank you. So, I just read through all 38 pages of the thread and on the very last page....got my question answered.

Basically...was reading and reading threads and getting confused because some people say 285s fit just fine in a stock suspension with a fender mod (as long as you buy the appropriate fitting wheels (offset, width, etc)). Others say you need a lift.

It sounds like both are right.

I read this before but it didn't fully click ->
www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/208403-changing-tire-size-wheels-read-first.html

It states:



But it didn't really click. Mainly...because in the middle of the paragraph its talking about 35s. And then for 33s it says ->



But...I didn't know exactly what "all the other factors above are considered". I thought it was the beginning of the whole post/article or something.

Now...if I'm right in my understanding.....you can run 285s with a stock suspension with only minor modifications. As long as its ON THE ROAD. (though I don't know what would happen if you hit a speed bump hard).

If I'm going offroading where the suspension is going over large rocks or ruts in the road and getting compressed...then it would be a huge problem running stock suspension. The wheel would start rubbing everywhere in the wheel well. A lift would be required so there is more space in the wheel well to handle the larger tire when suspension gets compressed. --- For 33" tires, there is simply nothing to mess with here as long as all the other factors above are considered, LIKE HAVING THE TRUCK LIFTED 2-3". ----

If I'm wrong on this....please call me out.

You've pretty much got it. I can tell you when I had my 285 KOS on my 17x8 wheels, 4.5" BS and 0 offset, it was fine ON ROAD. Only once did it rub and that was while turning across traffic fast into a parking lot with a hood hill and even then it was BARELY. You absolutely have to either remove or heavily mod the front mud flaps and you have to do the fender liner mod. If you're going to wheel it, the 285 is not a good idea. I'm lifted 3" front, 2.75 ish rear, and i'm running a 295/70/17 RG now on the same wheel which is a BIG 295. I haven't wheeled hard but I have room and I did not have to do a BMC.
 

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You've pretty much got it. I can tell you when I had my 285 KOS on my 17x8 wheels, 4.5" BS and 0 offset, it was fine ON ROAD. Only once did it rub and that was while turning across traffic fast into a parking lot with a hood hill and even then it was BARELY. You absolutely have to either remove or heavily mod the front mud flaps and you have to do the fender liner mod. If you're going to wheel it, the 285 is not a good idea. I'm lifted 3" front, 2.75 ish rear, and i'm running a 295/70/17 RG now on the same wheel which is a BIG 295. I haven't wheeled hard but I have room and I did not have to do a BMC.

Great info! My 2016 TEP is currently at my local shop getting Daystar front and rear 2.5” spacer/level kit (cheap route for now) and Nitto RG 285/70r17s put on the stock TEP wheels (for now). I have two sets of Spidertrax spacers on hand if needed and my shop guy said instantly, “Man I really dont like those things as they change up the whole design/weight physics of the wheels (which has been cussed and discussed here). He said lets wait and see if we even have a need for those if we remove all 4 mudflaps. What do you guys think? Side note: I had Toyo OC ATIIs on my last truck and loved them. My guy can get those in a much lighter/cheaper Passenger rated 285/70r17 and tried to sway me to those. For some reason, I am stuck on the Nitto RG as I like the slightly more agressive pattern for those occasional mud situations. To be honest, I was (maybe still am) torn between the RG and the Toyo OC R/T. But did tell him RG yesterday. Any expert comments, predictions and advice is greatly appreciated.
 
I get the concept of issues with spacers, but the experience doesn’t match the theoretical issues. A ton of guys (myself included, plus the countless Jeep guys) have used spacers for off roading and have put them through more than most people do on a regular basis. They’re not as evil as you’d expect based on comments...provided they are a good quality and install properly.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Great info! My 2016 TEP is currently at my local shop getting Daystar front and rear 2.5” spacer/level kit (cheap route for now) and Nitto RG 285/70r17s put on the stock TEP wheels (for now). I have two sets of Spidertrax spacers on hand if needed and my shop guy said instantly, “Man I really dont like those things as they change up the whole design/weight physics of the wheels (which has been cussed and discussed here). He said lets wait and see if we even have a need for those if we remove all 4 mudflaps. What do you guys think? Side note: I had Toyo OC ATIIs on my last truck and loved them. My guy can get those in a much lighter/cheaper Passenger rated 285/70r17 and tried to sway me to those. For some reason, I am stuck on the Nitto RG as I like the slightly more agressive pattern for those occasional mud situations. To be honest, I was (maybe still am) torn between the RG and the Toyo OC R/T. But did tell him RG yesterday. Any expert comments, predictions and advice is greatly appreciated.

Rear mud flaps are not an issue, front is. If you remove the rear flaps, you'll have a huge hole there since the fender liner doesn't cover behind the flap. You'll have to cut the rear flaps if you want to modify them in any way. Your stock wheels are kinda narrow for those tires also, but spacers are not an option IMO. I think you're going to rub the sidewall on the upper control arm with stock wheels but I could be wrong. As for the tires, the RG is great after the first 3000-4000 wear in process. Just give them time, be extra careful in the rain and on wet roads, and you'll be happy with them.
 

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I get the concept of issues with spacers, but the experience doesn’t match the theoretical issues. A ton of guys (myself included, plus the countless Jeep guys) have used spacers for off roading and have put them through more than most people do on a regular basis. They’re not as evil as you’d expect based on comments...provided they are a good quality and install properly.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Great info - thanks for sharing! I’ve heard the same, but when it comes to wheels coming off from misplaced stress, that’s a bit unsettling.
 
Rear mud flaps are not an issue, front is. If you remove the rear flaps, you'll have a huge hole there since the fender liner doesn't cover behind the flap. You'll have to cut the rear flaps if you want to modify them in any way. Your stock wheels are kinda narrow for those tires also, but spacers are not an option IMO. I think you're going to rub the sidewall on the upper control arm with stock wheels but I could be wrong. As for the tires, the RG is great after the first 3000-4000 wear in process. Just give them time, be extra careful in the rain and on wet roads, and you'll be happy with them.

Got it and thanks! I think the TEP stock wheels are a tad wider than the TRO - maybe I misread that?? I read that about being careful during the first 3-4000mi with the RG in your earlier post and great info. Also, did you shave off the bottom of your rear mudflaps to be even with the body so as to match the front?
 
Got it and thanks! I think the TEP stock wheels are a tad wider than the TRO - maybe I misread that?? I read that about being careful during the first 3-4000mi with the RG in your earlier post and great info. Also, did you shave off the bottom of your rear mudflaps to be even with the body so as to match the front?

My wheels are not TRD Pro wheels. They are the FN wheels FX Pro which is a 17x8 with less back spacing and 0 offset. Your wheels are wider by 1/2" but still have the same back spacing which is the issue. Never know, you might get lucky, one way to find out! I did originally trim the rear flaps along the factory line which takes off 2 or 3 inches. I then cut them totally flush so there is enough to cover the hole in the bumper but there is nothing hanging lower than that. I just don't like mud flaps lol.
 
My wheels are not TRD Pro wheels. They are the FN wheels FX Pro which is a 17x8 with less back spacing and 0 offset. Your wheels are wider by 1/2" but still have the same back spacing which is the issue. Never know, you might get lucky, one way to find out! I did originally trim the rear flaps along the factory line which takes off 2 or 3 inches. I then cut them totally flush so there is enough to cover the hole in the bumper but there is nothing hanging lower than that. I just don't like mud flaps lol.

Got it and thanks. Here’s to getting lucky...���� I cant stand the mudflap look either! I just want the tired to look proper- not that look you see where it is clear that someone has squeezed too large a tire under a under-lifted truck. To me, that looks terrible. I also dont like the tires looking too sucked inward - prefer a bit of a wider, more stable looking stance. Not sure how to get the look I am desiring, but Phase One is underway with the Daystar kit and 285 RGs forthcoming... Your truck looks perfect to me - exactly what my goal look is. Also, I dont have KDSS or XREAS (that I can tell) on mine if that has any effect on this discussion or not. Just also noticed that I am going from a 40lb tire (Hankook 265) to the RG at 58lbs per tire. Surely that will have some negative effect on something - at least fuel economy..? That’s a big jump.

Also, does anyone have a quick link to the front fender trim thread since with the 285s I am sure I will need it. Thanks!

(Well I just realized that yours looks so good because you went with 295s...Darn it!)
 
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Pricing response.

Someone above had asked about RG prices. Im getting my set of 285s for $1250 mounted and balanced. Not sure if that’s a good deal or not.
 
My wheels are not TRD Pro wheels. They are the FN wheels FX Pro which is a 17x8 with less back spacing and 0 offset. Your wheels are wider by 1/2" but still have the same back spacing which is the issue. Never know, you might get lucky, one way to find out! I did originally trim the rear flaps along the factory line which takes off 2 or 3 inches. I then cut them totally flush so there is enough to cover the hole in the bumper but there is nothing hanging lower than that. I just don't like mud flaps lol.



Just a side note I have 285 RGs with the same FN wheels and they rub the body mount under heavy suspension flex. Every truck is different but it looks like I have a BMC in my near future.


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Got it and thanks. Here’s to getting lucky...���� I cant stand the mudflap look either! I just want the tired to look proper- not that look you see where it is clear that someone has squeezed too large a tire under a under-lifted truck. To me, that looks terrible. I also dont like the tires looking too sucked inward - prefer a bit of a wider, more stable looking stance. Not sure how to get the look I am desiring, but Phase One is underway with the Daystar kit and 285 RGs forthcoming... Your truck looks perfect to me - exactly what my goal look is. Also, I dont have KDSS or XREAS (that I can tell) on mine if that has any effect on this discussion or not. Just also noticed that I am going from a 40lb tire (Hankook 265) to the RG at 58lbs per tire. Surely that will have some negative effect on something - at least fuel economy..? That’s a big jump.

Also, does anyone have a quick link to the front fender trim thread since with the 285s I am sure I will need it. Thanks!

(Well I just realized that yours looks so good because you went with 295s...Darn it!)

No BMC for me, just the front bumper plastic trim. Just in bolt the liner, move it as far forward as possible, bolt it back into the bottom of the bumper, and trim the bumper flush with the liner.
 

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