non-OEM Seat Heater with Factory Fuse - How To

I've done it. No loss of functionality to other areas of the car, becauseI bought a new relay that was the same part # as the tow relay, so I maintained my tow lights as well.

No negative effects. I purchased a used relay off of ebay and put it in the slot, just because.
 
Asmara, thank you again for the input. It sounds like your China made seat heaters are working well. No issues with the switches themselves?

Given that there are two seat heaters, two switches, a fuse box, a fuse, a relay, and the green kick panel power wire, I think it would be very helpful if you could draw up a simple circuit diagram that shows how everything is wired so it's totally clear.

Any chance you would be able to do that for us all? I'm sure this will be invaluable to me and many other members that will be doing this job in the future.

Thanks much!
 
Blowing fuses..

So I did the install over the weekend. My driver side works great, but my passenger side wasn't working. And after scratching my head, thinking that I didn't splice the power wire on well, I realized that the inline fuse for the passenger side blew. I thought maybe I got shipped a dud, so I replaced it, and turned it on and it blew the fuse.. I'm pretty novice when it comes to electrical circuits, so if anyone can give me any ideas of what is going on that would be great.
 
So I did the install over the weekend. My driver side works great, but my passenger side wasn't working. And after scratching my head, thinking that I didn't splice the power wire on well, I realized that the inline fuse for the passenger side blew. I thought maybe I got shipped a dud, so I replaced it, and turned it on and it blew the fuse.. I'm pretty novice when it comes to electrical circuits, so if anyone can give me any ideas of what is going on that would be great.

Although it helped you in this case as far as troubleshooting, I would have pulled out the inline fuses when you did the install. It's not normally good to have multiple fuses on one circuit. Especially ones that will be hidden.

You might have a problem with a heating elements having a direct short. Quickest way to check would be to swap the plugs from the drivers seat and passenger seat. If you swap the wiring, replace the fuse, and turn on the driver's seat heater using the passenger switch, does the fuse blow?

If you have a multi-meter put the meter on ohms and check the resistance of the drivers seat heating element and compare to the passenger seat. If you get zero ohms you have dead short and the element will need to be replaced.

Try these things and report back.
 
Although it helped you in this case as far as troubleshooting, I would have pulled out the inline fuses when you did the install. It's not normally good to have multiple fuses on one circuit. Especially ones that will be hidden.

You might have a problem with a heating elements having a direct short. Quickest way to check would be to swap the plugs from the drivers seat and passenger seat. If you swap the wiring, replace the fuse, and turn on the driver's seat heater using the passenger switch, does the fuse blow?

If you have a multi-meter put the meter on ohms and check the resistance of the drivers seat heating element and compare to the passenger seat. If you get zero ohms you have dead short and the element will need to be replaced.

Try these things and report back.

Did as you recommended and swapped the switches. So then I knew there was something going on with the heating element. Sure enough there was a short on the element. I had cut a hole in it in two spots to allow me to attach the seat cover back to the foam, but I forgot to cover the exposed heating element where I cut and that was contacting the metal that you zip tie the seat covers to. I covered up that exposed edge with some duct tape, put in a new fuse and it worked perfectly. Thanks for your help!
 
That green wire...

Do you have to cut and splice? So the hot side seat heater lead connects to one side of the green wire and the ground side seat heater lead connects to the other side of the green wire?

Also, what do A6 and A7 represent? Are they fuse box locations or do they refer to specific wires?

Can anyone please clarify?

Thanks.
 
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That green wire...

Do you have to cut and splice? So the hot side seat heater lead connects to one side of the green wire and the ground side seat heater lead connects to the other side of the green wire?

Also, what do A6 and A7 represent? Are they fuse box locations or do they refer to specific wires?

Can anyone please clarify?

Thanks.

Read carefully. You're about to short something out.

To answer your specific question, you cut the green wire from the backside of the IC4 connector and splice that into the hot wire(likely a red wire) for your seat heaters. Remove any inline fuses that came with your seat heaters, mine was long enough I just cut the wire at the fuse location and then spliced it into the green wire.

A6 and A7 are the location designations for the wiring in IC4. You don't really need to know them and I mentioned A7 simply to help you find the A6 green wire. Basically each spot on the connector is numbered 1 - ## (I can't recall how many wires are in IC4). So there is A1, A2, A3 you get the idea.

The ground for your heaters does not/not connect to the green wire. You need to connect it to either a factory ground wire or a screw/bolt that goes into the body of the car. It's been a while so I can't remember what I did but I suspect that I just spliced into a ground wire for the power outlet. Look for a white wire with a black stripe on it.
 
When I updated my 06 sport I first went to the dealership and they told me there was a new part number 90987-02025, then said the part was 110 dollars for one relay. I decided to try a dismantle shop and found them for $10 each with the original.
 
Here's what the original looks like
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When I updated my 06 sport I first went to the dealership and they told me there was a new part number 90987-02025, then said the part was 110 dollars for one relay. I decided to try a dismantle shop and found them for $10 each with the original.

Either 90987-02025 or 90987-02016 will work. I think the 02016 is the original part number. Ebay is the cheapest place to get them.
 
Read carefully. You're about to short something out.

To answer your specific question, you cut the green wire from the backside of the IC4 connector and splice that into the hot wire(likely a red wire) for your seat heaters. Remove any inline fuses that came with your seat heaters, mine was long enough I just cut the wire at the fuse location and then spliced it into the green wire.

A6 and A7 are the location designations for the wiring in IC4. You don't really need to know them and I mentioned A7 simply to help you find the A6 green wire. Basically each spot on the connector is numbered 1 - ## (I can't recall how many wires are in IC4). So there is A1, A2, A3 you get the idea.

The ground for your heaters does not/not connect to the green wire. You need to connect it to either a factory ground wire or a screw/bolt that goes into the body of the car. It's been a while so I can't remember what I did but I suspect that I just spliced into a ground wire for the power outlet. Look for a white wire with a black stripe on it.

Thank you for expanding on this. One remaining question: So you wired the driver side and passenger side in parallel (you ran both heater wires to that green wire, correct?)

When I finally get around to this, I'll draw up the circuit diagram.
 
Resurrecting this post.

Thank you for this write-up and share. I purchased the referenced relay from Amazon (Denso 567-0003) and heated seat pads. I was able to confirm on my MY07 last night that the green wire at IC4 is the same on the face-lifted 4Runner by tapping it and running a volt meter while pulling the fuse in and out.

I do have a question on going this route, and I'm not sure if [MENTION=66389]BlackWorksInc[/MENTION] can help, but I'd like to see if I could actually pin a wire to insert into the blank A6 position and continue the run along with the factory harness. Does anyone know what kind of pin (Toyota P/N) this would require for this connector?
 

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