OEM Automatic Headlight Install

I'm sure it should be obvious, but I can be slow sometimes. Does anyone have a picture of where the light sensor plugs in? I know there's a blank you remove to plug it in, but I'm staring at my dash scratching my head . . . :confused:
 
iBison said:
It looks like the light sensor is the same on these vehicles. You should be able to pick one up at a junkyard for a few bucks,

Toyota
2008+ RAV4
1997+ corola
2002+ Matrix
2000+ Highlander
1998+ Camry
1998+ Solara
1999+ Celica
2000+ Sequoia
2003+ 4Runner
2003+ Prius
Lexus
2000+ IS300
1998+ RX300
1997+ GS300
1997+ GS400
1997+ GS430
Click to expand...

I went to Crazy Rays junkyard in Hawkins Point today and was able to find the light sensor from a 2003 Lexus GS300. I grabbed the headlight switch as well but I do not think its the same connector on the bottom. Does anybody know of other Toyota or Lexus or Scion vehicles that would use the same auto headlight switch? Thanks in advance.
 
2016 4Runner Automatic Headlight install

Asmara said:
I wanted (actually the wife casually mentioned that it would be nice one day - project authorized!) automatic headlights like on the limited and did some searching in the forums. I found this thread about DRLs that also included a couple of posts (here and here) where Rando described installing automatic headlights. Rando really paved the way but here is my version; all in one place for easy reference.

I think if you have a local pick and pull, you can get some of the parts much more cheaply used, especially the light sensor which was used in tons of Toyota and Lexus vehicles.

PARTS
Limited Headlight Dimmer OEM: 84140-35150 $109
a. Aftermarket – Standard Motor CBS1240
b. Airtex/Wells - 1S3999
(note: There are lots of similar ones for Limiteds on eBay but they don’t have the automatic headlight switch. Check the aftermarket part numbers. RockAuto had the cheapest ones.)​
Light Sensor OEM: 89121-12010 $133 (got mine for $99 used on ebay)
Wire Harness
If you have standard climate control you need: OEM 82142-35020 $10
If you have dual climate control you need: OEM 82142-35030 $10 (thanks ThreeFiveO)

Note: As you’ll see in the install, I got the wrong three-wire dual climate control harness which required some minor modification for my ’04. No splicing required if you buy the correct wiring harness for you vehicle.​
red butt connectors (X2) (but only if you get the wrong part :) )​
TOOLS
Phillips screwdriver or 10mm socket
Butt connector Crimper
Wire Stripper​
TIME
No more than two hours​

Once you complete this mod, the tremendous burden of determining if it is dark enough and then removing your arm from the steering wheel to turn that little switch will be removed from your life. You do have to double check the switch if you ever valet park your car or you might end up like this poor woman.

When in auto, the green headlight indicator is only illuminated when the headlights are turned on by the system. There's a two or three second delay before the sensor turns on the headlights when the sensor goes from daylight to dark presumable to keep the headlights from flashing every time you're in a shadow.

STEP BY STEP
  • Assemble the parts.
  • Remove the plastic covering the instrument cluster. It just pulls off. Helps a bit if you pull out the top of the lower cover but you don’t have to unscrew the bottom screws.
  • Remove the speedo cluster. 3 screws plus the 2 screws that hold the wiring connectors to the back of the cluster.
(cont.)
Click to expand...

Hi Asmara,

I'm new to the forum by finding your post on Google - thanks! So like yourself my wife has voiced words about no automatic headlights. So
doing some searching I ran across your post with pics, awesome!
We have a 2016 4Runner SR5 Premium - I yanked the halogen headlamps out and installed Morimoto HID's for the headlights and I'm running VLED LED headlights are for the foglights. What a remarkable difference!
Now I need to get the automatic headlights done and I'm finished. I need some guidance on the Wire harness for the climate control. This is what I have so far:
From Toyotapartsdeal.com
Toyota Part No.: 89121-50020
SENSOR, AUTOMATIC LIGHT CONTROL $115.53
Toyota Part No.: 84140-35171
Limited SWITCH ASSY, HEADLAM $111.14

Thanks in advance.
 
I believe these are the correct part numbers based on the 2016 LTD/TRD Pro:
89121-50020 SENSOR, LIGHT CONTRO $115.53

84140-35171 SWITCH ASSY, HEADLAM $111.14

82140-35020 WIRE ASSY, INSTRUMEN $9.53

If anyone has better or if any of these part number are not correct let me know.

Thanks
 
This is a mod I actually need, not just want.

I just found out about this route, but I almost make my own photo-sensor setup with an Arduino... anyone ever play with one of those?
 
I've had this mod done for a while, and though its a luxury, I do enjoy it.

One thing I have noticed is that when left in the Auto position and I start the engine, sometimes, only one headlight will go on (almost always the left). In order to have the right one on too, I need to turn the headlights all the way to off, then back on again (or all the way back to Auto). It's not that big a deal, but to me, defeats the purpose of having the Auto feature.

I live in super hot and sunny Southern California so it's not due to cold weather in the morning when I start the vehicle. I have checked the ballasts and bulbs and everything is fine. Running Morimoto 35w, so the power draw is still pretty small. Is there a way to fix this? I have an almost 6 year old battery from the dealer...would a newer one with more power solve this issue?
 
matthewkristof said:
I've had this mod done for a while, and though its a luxury, I do enjoy it.

One thing I have noticed is that when left in the Auto position and I start the engine, sometimes, only one headlight will go on (almost always the left). In order to have the right one on too, I need to turn the headlights all the way to off, then back on again (or all the way back to Auto). It's not that big a deal, but to me, defeats the purpose of having the Auto feature.

I live in super hot and sunny Southern California so it's not due to cold weather in the morning when I start the vehicle. I have checked the ballasts and bulbs and everything is fine. Running Morimoto 35w, so the power draw is still pretty small. Is there a way to fix this? I have an almost 6 year old battery from the dealer...would a newer one with more power solve this issue?
Click to expand...

To fix the engine start issue... you can get a relay which is wired normally open and install it in line to the main power for the ballasts. The trigger wire can be connected to the starter 12v line which would shut off both ballasts during engine cranking... This makes sure any power available goes to engine cranking... and also power cycles both ballasts after the engine is started which is what you are doing anyways. This feature is found on some dual battery ACRs... its called Start Isolation, you are just making a DIY version of it.

The 2nd issue... not sure if you are trying to say you have some type of parasitic drain... or if you just have an aging battery. At 6 years its time for a new cell regardless.
 
I really need to write complete responses before I post... :/

I actually do have a relay connected to this. I originally installed it without the relay, but after reading responses from people on this forum about their safety, I decided to install one. I achieve the same results with or without the relay.

I currently don't have any battery drain (knock on wood). Never had any problems with it. Just noting that the battery is 6 years old, it's the second one since I purchased the vehicle; maybe that makes a difference when running the HIDs straight from the battery without the engine being on. Guess I should be looking into a new battery regardless...
 
matthewkristof said:
I really need to write complete responses before I post... :/

I actually do have a relay connected to this. I originally installed it without the relay, but after reading responses from people on this forum about their safety, I decided to install one. I achieve the same results with or without the relay.

I currently don't have any battery drain (knock on wood). Never had any problems with it. Just noting that the battery is 6 years old, it's the second one since I purchased the vehicle; maybe that makes a difference when running the HIDs straight from the battery without the engine being on. Guess I should be looking into a new battery regardless...
Click to expand...

I think you misunderstood my post... the relay isn't to control the normal function and power distribution under regular conditions...

This would be a 2nd relay in addition to the one you have, wired in a normally (ON) position, where you would energize to turn off.

This way during engine cranking (12v Starter to trigger relay), it turns off the lights, solving the problem you are having because you are needing to power cycle the lights.
 
Yes apparently I didn't understand correctly. :/

How do I add a second relay? The first is wired straight to the battery...would the second one be wired to an always on circuit, and then wire that directly to the headlights?
 
I replaced my battery (was starting to go) hoping it would solve the problem but I am having the same issue as before...when in the Auto position, driver side headlight and fog light come on, but passenger side ones do not. Flipping the stock all the way off to on solves it...but hoping to get it to work in the Auto position.

A previous member mentioned adding a second relay in conjunction with the first one...anyone know how I can do that?
 
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