Official 3rd gen 4Runners on 35's Pic Thread

Ok.... it's been forever since I've been on here. Health issues, new job away from home, you name it.... My plan was to regear this winter, and 35s for new tires come spring. My regear job didn't get done as planned so I'm stuck with a delema.

I'm still in need of the new tires no matter what in the next few months. And my rig is ready for 35s except for the gears. (Unless I'm missing something)

SPC Upper Control Arms
1 1/2" BL Need to modify bumpers to fit. (Modify the front to raise it about an inch. Rear one will be cut back about an inch or so and recapped to follow the wheel well lines again, and then a vertical plate to help fill the gap between the body and the bumper.)
1 1/4" Wheel Spacers
Lifted (Extended Bumpstops, front and rear)
Current wheel is 16x8 with 4" BS
Current gears are 4.30s (Auto with E-locker, will be fitting 5.29s when ready.

If I get the 35s before gears, is it drivable for the summer? I won't be driving much due to work (I'll be away 4 to 6 weeks at a time) so just around town when I'm home and maybe a weekend camping trip if I can it in once and a while.

I would hate to get another set of 33s just for one year? If my daughters jeep had 16s instead of 17s I would get the 33s and just move them to her Jeep when the time comes... but no. I would hate to invest in a set of 17 wheels with the 33s which would take $$$ away from the gears.

Opinions, Options, and cover anything I blindly missed is greatly appreciated.

Many thanks!

You should be fine to drive it for the summer with the stock gears. I drove mine for a couple of years with stock 4.10's before regearing.
 
Ok.... it's been forever since I've been on here. Health issues, new job away from home, you name it.... My plan was to regear this winter, and 35s for new tires come spring. My regear job didn't get done as planned so I'm stuck with a delema.

I'm still in need of the new tires no matter what in the next few months. And my rig is ready for 35s except for the gears. (Unless I'm missing something)

SPC Upper Control Arms
1 1/2" BL Need to modify bumpers to fit. (Modify the front to raise it about an inch. Rear one will be cut back about an inch or so and recapped to follow the wheel well lines again, and then a vertical plate to help fill the gap between the body and the bumper.)
1 1/4" Wheel Spacers
Lifted (Extended Bumpstops, front and rear)
Current wheel is 16x8 with 4" BS
Current gears are 4.30s (Auto with E-locker, will be fitting 5.29s when ready.

If I get the 35s before gears, is it drivable for the summer? I won't be driving much due to work (I'll be away 4 to 6 weeks at a time) so just around town when I'm home and maybe a weekend camping trip if I can it in once and a while.

I would hate to get another set of 33s just for one year? If my daughters jeep had 16s instead of 17s I would get the 33s and just move them to her Jeep when the time comes... but no. I would hate to invest in a set of 17 wheels with the 33s which would take $$$ away from the gears.

Opinions, Options, and cover anything I blindly missed is greatly appreciated.

Many thanks!

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I have a 5speed but I ran 35's with 4:10's for over a year. You will be slow but it will motivate you to get your gears done. Do it once and be done. Welcome to the Club.:clap2:
 
I have a 5speed but I ran 35's with 4:10's for over a year. You will be slow but it will motivate you to get your gears done. Do it once and be done. Welcome to the Club.:clap2:

Good to hear! Slow isn't an issue, up here I hardly ever go over 65.
Thanks for the input!
 
Off topic, but 1.5" or 2" body lift with 3"+ suspension lift. I have a 1" now and it rubs.
687c78b397d45b9ff1d153cb5aec7f6e.jpg



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35" General Grabbers X3's on 17x9 American Eagle Alloys Series 023, l/t with ~4" of lift up front, 3.5" lift springs rear.

C1FBD6AE-B21A-468A-82E1-38B3CBB9A60C_zpsm5zrtolq.jpg~original


EBF792CE-D336-4D08-811F-593D4866BC05_zpsjszdswch.jpg~original
 
Do you have Wheel spacers or Adjustable UCAs yet?

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Yes I have all that stuff.
2002 4R Auto 4.88's

Wheel spacers: Yes Spidertrax 1.5"
Body lift: Yes 1"
Front Lift: Swayaway co's + 1/2" top out spacer.
Rear Lift: Toytec could + OME trim spacer
Wheels: 4R Trails wheels
Tires: Toyo R/T 35 12.5 r17


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Yes I have all that stuff.
2002 4R Auto 4.88's

Wheel spacers: Yes Spidertrax 1.5"
Body lift: Yes 1"
Front Lift: Swayaway co's + 1/2" top out spacer.
Rear Lift: Toytec could + OME trim spacer
Wheels: 4R Trails wheels
Tires: Toyo R/T 35 12.5 r17


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Stock UCAs? Where does it rub?
 
Passenger side normal driving here (see below).

I had if off-road the other day and other that that sport it really wasn't bad.


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I have a similar setup to you (except no body lift)
My Hub to Fender:
F: 23 3/4"
R: 25"

I rubbed there as well and ended up trimming/ folding the pinch weld but would still get some rub.

Recently I installed SPC upper control arms and set them in the F Setting with the LCA bolts maxed out.
Before and after an alignment I now clear by a mile (even flexed out and lock to lock) and no more frame rub when turning :guitar3:
This setting pushes the wheel forward in the wheel well which is how the clearance is gained. I highly suggest these arms

Only place I rub now is on the rear bumper at full stuff where the mud flap would bolt

You can kind of see it in this picture
 

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I have a similar setup to you (except no body lift)
My Hub to Fender:
F: 23 3/4"
R: 25"

I rubbed there as well and ended up trimming/ folding the pinch weld but would still get some rub.

Recently I installed SPC upper control arms and set them in the F Setting with the LCA bolts maxed out.
Before and after an alignment I now clear by a mile (even flexed out and lock to lock) and no more frame rub when turning :guitar3:
This setting pushes the wheel forward in the wheel well which is how the clearance is gained. I highly suggest these arms

Only place I rub now is on the rear bumper at full stuff where the mud flap would bolt

You can kind of see it in this picture



What're your caster values?


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I want 35s but I'm on the fence about a few things. How much worse does it make your MPG and did you have to regear?
Who are you asking?
My MPG average is about 15mpg. On 87 octane, 315/70R17 BFG KO2 load range E, 42PSI, at 0-1k feet- 80hwy/20cty.
Do you have to re-gear? Yes.
Do most of us? No.
 
Just wondering how the diffs and half shafts are holding up too the 35" abuse? I'm in the middle of clearencing for 35's now.
 
Apparently I fit in to this thread now... schweet.

Wheel spacers: Front=No Rear=1.25 Spidertrax
Body lift: No
Front Lift: Solo Motorsports Long Travel Kit w/ King 2.5 coilovers
Rear Lift: OME 861s and 4th gen Bilsteins
Wheels: 16x8 4.5 SCS F5s
Tires: Toyo Open Country M/T 315/75R16

Other junk to fit...
Tub firewall and rear fender wells/trim stock fender flares/cut and modified bumpers

<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/131523454@N04/32633262453/in/dateposted-public/" title="rigfront"><img src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/774/32633262453_5c302f5916_b.jpg" width="1024" height="683" alt="rigfront"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
 

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