Official SPC(light racing) Product update!!!

[-JD-]

So, started to notice a 'clicking' feeling coming through my steering wheel, then a few days later started to notice a lot of noise coming from the front end. Looks like my bushings are failing.

Installed my UCA's in Nov of 2011. Called SPC and they SOLD me a replacement kit for $25. What a PITA. Considering how potentially disastrous this failure could be I'm amazed they wouldn't warranty this part.

How dangerous is it to continue driving while I wait for my replacement bushings in the mail?

After reading this thread I'm more confused. How many different versions of these bushings are there? Can they all be easily removed or will I have to have mine pressed out?

 

[Stu-Runner]

So, started to notice a 'clicking' feeling coming through my steering wheel, then a few days later started to notice a lot of noise coming from the front end. Looks like my bushings are failing.

Installed my UCA's in Nov of 2011. Called SPC and they SOLD me a replacement kit for $25. What a PITA. Considering how potentially disastrous this failure could be I'm amazed they wouldn't warranty this part.

How dangerous is it to continue driving while I wait for my replacement bushings in the mail?

After reading this thread I'm more confused. How many different versions of these bushings are there? Can they all be easily removed or will I have to have mine pressed out?

Read through the first couple of pages and the information from Ducmonsta is great at explaining the bushing updates. I think the bushings have only been changed once but the washers and sleeves have been changed a couple of times. You can change them yourself pretty easily with normal tools.

As long as its just your bushings that are wearing out it shouldn't be too dangerous to drive until the new ones arrive. I wouldn't take any road trips or anything.

The real damage happens with the castrophic failure of the welds on the arms or ball joints.

Stu

 

[-JD-]

Recorded a video of a my ball joints once I got the arms off. Are these bad? The one sounds really rough.

 

[Jeremy556]

Are these bad?

Yes. They should take decent effort to move with your fingers, those are loose and worn out.

 

[Kotrin]

Guess i'll find out how long mine last. I've yet to have any issues with my previous run of them on my Tacoma. And I abused the 'hell' out of them. Granted it was only a year, but it was 15k miles of sand, snow, mud bogs, water crossings..you name it. I looked at what parts I could salvage after I totaled it and they were still in GREAT shape.

 

[Hugo83]

Hi guys I'm new to the forum and i hope to be able to find some help from you guys, thank you in advance, so my first question is... so i just got a 3" lift on my 2011 4runner sr5 and the rear suspension seems to be great with some toytec coils and blistein shocks but on the front i only have spacers with the OME UCA, I'm not planning on doing any off roading until i get a real suspension lift kit now is just for the "looks" and I'm planning on getting bigger tires (285/70/17) so i was wondering if the stock UCA will handle the spacers and bigger tires. NOTE : I drive about 12 miles a day and not aggressive at all, THANK YOU AGAIN !

 

[Vegas]

What did I miss?

I leave the forum for a little while to enjoy my 4Runner instead of working on it and I've missed so much.... Gotta check UCA asap in the AM

 

[Cire2]

Anyone have the direct contact information for aquiring the recall kit from SPC?

I've had my LR UCAs installed from early 2012 and had no issues, but i'm worried that it could break at anytime. Since it has been 4 years, is it easier to just go with OEM UCAs instead of buying new ball joints for the existing LR UCAs? I do little to no off roading anymore and my tires are only 265/65/18.

Thanks,
Cire

 

[Nimbostratus]

So which version do I have? Still confused after reading this whole post. Haha. I've got some form of sweaking going on that sounds like it from the front end. I found this thread in my searching.

 

[Scott@Hightech]

THAT looks like the newest version. make sure the bushings are well lubed as well as the ball joint, make sure there is no play anywhere too.

 

[Apex Overland]

So which version do I have? Still confused after reading this whole post. Haha. I've got some form of sweaking going on that sounds like it from the front end. I found this thread in my searching.

Looking at your picture id say your good to go. You have the newest bushings, the style with the angled end toward the center. And it looks like grease is on them too. Just recheck the torque on them after a few hundred miles then enjoy.

As far as you squeaking goes. Make sure they are torqued down right to the proper specs. Also check your lower control arm bolts. Mine were making a noise after the alignment and weren't torqued properly. Tightened them up and it stopped.

 

[swansong04]

Resurrecting an old post. Look what I found tonight on the wife's 4Runner

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Bullitjohn]

I just bought a pair last week brand new should I even bother putting them on or selling them? I'm thinking I've lost trust in them just from this thread. Maybe I'll go the camburg uniball or ball joint route what are your guys thought ? Thanks

 

[cd4pro]

I just bought a pair last week brand new should I even bother putting them on or selling them? I'm thinking I've lost trust in them just from this thread. Maybe I'll go the camburg uniball or ball joint route what are your guys thought ? Thanks

I when with JBA offroad for this exact reason.

 

[jbstrd]

I just bought a pair last week brand new should I even bother putting them on or selling them? I'm thinking I've lost trust in them just from this thread. Maybe I'll go the camburg uniball or ball joint route what are your guys thought ? Thanks

40k miles on mine without issues. I have updated the bushings as they were released and I just replaced the BJ's with the newest design.

 

[BigredTEX]

I just bought a pair last week brand new should I even bother putting them on or selling them? I'm thinking I've lost trust in them just from this thread. Maybe I'll go the camburg uniball or ball joint route what are your guys thought ? Thanks

I've updated to the latest bushing design a couple of years ago and haven't had any problems. The arms are over 5 years old. I did have the dreaded failure on the passenger side 4 years ago. The arm was replaced by SPC at the time and I did the new bushings myself.

The latest version has the "better" bushing design as well as a greaseable ball joint. I'd say install them, keep the ball joint lubed and don't worry about it.

 

[Bullitjohn]

Thanks for the input yeah theses arms have the greasable ball joints and new or current bushings. Did you guys lock tite that inch and a quarter nut on the ball joint or has anyone had that nut loosen up? Thanks for the input guys.

 

[jbstrd]

Thanks for the input yeah theses arms have the greasable ball joints and new or current bushings. Did you guys lock tite that inch and a quarter nut on the ball joint or has anyone had that nut loosen up? Thanks for the input guys.

No need to loctite the BJ nut. Just torque it to 150 ft. Lbs. I've never had mine loosen up.

 

[BigredTEX]

No need to loctite the BJ nut. Just torque it to 150 ft. Lbs. I've never had mine loosen up.

Nor have I. Also, the new bushing design has relieved the torque stress on the UCA bolt and nut. Before upgrading to the new bushings I had to re-tighten the nut every 1K miles or so. Haven't had it work loose once since.

 

[jbstrd]

Nor have I. Also, the new bushing design has relieved the torque stress on the UCA bolt and nut. Before upgrading to the new bushings I had to re-tighten the nut every 1K miles or so. Haven't had it work loose once since.

Yea, the old bushing design was also the reason for the welds breaking. Too much torque on the bushings and they were not able to move freely. Therefore, the weakest point would break.