Bullitjohn
New member
Thanks guys I contacted spc Friday and got there response today so here it is I copied and pasted it. Guess I'll bolt them on next week
We would advise against using a thread locking compound on those threads as you do need to be able to readjust that ball joint. If you are concerned about the ball joint sliding in its slot, let me reprint one of FAQ questions about these arms:
Q6: The upper nut on my ball joint came loose. How can I prevent this?
A6: This may occur on arms that have been powder coated or painted, but also occasionally on trucks with very large tires that are used for rough rock crawling. We have revised the torque spec on the top nut from 120 ft lb to 150 to combat this issue. If you feel that you are at risk from having the nut come loose, you can torque it up to 175ftlb. If you have decided to powder coat or put on another secondary paint, it is recommended that you re-torque the nut a day or two after the initial alignment, as added coatings tend to compress, and may affect clamping torque.
It is never a bad idea to retorque those nuts after a day or two. I have never taken a call where the ball joint slipped unless the arm had been painted or powder coated and hadn't been retorqued.
For your second concern, the weld failure was caused by a tolerance stackup on some vehicles where the washers on each side of the bushing grabbed the bushings too hard and caused fatigue cracking over time. This has been eliminated by only using one washer on the outside of the bushing so there isn't the possibility of that happening. This does mean you only want to use the hardware supplied in your kit; do not reuse any old hardware.
We would advise against using a thread locking compound on those threads as you do need to be able to readjust that ball joint. If you are concerned about the ball joint sliding in its slot, let me reprint one of FAQ questions about these arms:
Q6: The upper nut on my ball joint came loose. How can I prevent this?
A6: This may occur on arms that have been powder coated or painted, but also occasionally on trucks with very large tires that are used for rough rock crawling. We have revised the torque spec on the top nut from 120 ft lb to 150 to combat this issue. If you feel that you are at risk from having the nut come loose, you can torque it up to 175ftlb. If you have decided to powder coat or put on another secondary paint, it is recommended that you re-torque the nut a day or two after the initial alignment, as added coatings tend to compress, and may affect clamping torque.
It is never a bad idea to retorque those nuts after a day or two. I have never taken a call where the ball joint slipped unless the arm had been painted or powder coated and hadn't been retorqued.
For your second concern, the weld failure was caused by a tolerance stackup on some vehicles where the washers on each side of the bushing grabbed the bushings too hard and caused fatigue cracking over time. This has been eliminated by only using one washer on the outside of the bushing so there isn't the possibility of that happening. This does mean you only want to use the hardware supplied in your kit; do not reuse any old hardware.
