Oil Change 5th Gen: How To- LOTS of PICS!

A bit confused, but are you saying it was halfway between the min mark and max mark after 5 qts? That doesn't sound too far off. It's 1.8 qts from min mark to max mark, so if you added 1.6 qts from the half way point you might be a little overfilled, ~0.7 qts or so.

Make sure you're getting a good reading too. Toyota standard is check 5 minutes after shutting off engine after warming it up. I like to pull the dipstick right after I shut off the engine and leave it out the 5 mins, allows the oil in dipstick to drain back down. Then check. Helps prevent splotchiness on the dipstick sometimes leading to a false high reading.

Yea exactly. I was concerned because it calls for 6.6 quarts but it was showing that i reached normal level after only 5. I added the 1.6 because I was too afraid of starting the engine with too little oil in it.

But its all good now, I drained some oil and put a little back in and it seems to be at the correct level now. I'm going to keep a careful eye on it the next few days and I'll definitely try your tip about keeping the dipstick out the whole 5 minutes.
 
The oil change process looks the same as what was required for the 5.7L ’08 Sequoia I had. Takes a while, but some good music and a cold one in a koozie somehow tames the task.

Good to know about the dip stick. It seems every modern engine has a dip stick with multiple bends, twists and kinks, which makes getting a clear reading more challenging.
 
Yea exactly. I was concerned because it calls for 6.6 quarts but it was showing that i reached normal level after only 5. I added the 1.6 because I was too afraid of starting the engine with too little oil in it.

But its all good now, I drained some oil and put a little back in and it seems to be at the correct level now. I'm going to keep a careful eye on it the next few days and I'll definitely try your tip about keeping the dipstick out the whole 5 minutes.

Okay, just to be clear though, halfway between the dots is not considered normal level. It is safe, as anywhere in between the dots is. But to get 6.6 qts in there you'll have to go to the 2nd dot (max mark). The only real downside to not having as much oil as you can put in there is that you effectively shorten you're overall oil life, in that there's just less new oil/additives in there to get "used up."
 
what is this? who makes it or sells this?

this is in the filter location? so how do you replace the filter?

Billet oil cap. I make it. This is the filter location. The cap comes off with a six point socket, which never gets stuck. The drain valve allows quick and easy draining of the housing.
 
Okay, just to be clear though, halfway between the dots is not considered normal level. It is safe, as anywhere in between the dots is. But to get 6.6 qts in there you'll have to go to the 2nd dot (max mark). The only real downside to not having as much oil as you can put in there is that you effectively shorten you're overall oil life, in that there's just less new oil/additives in there to get "used up."

copy that. i've brought it up to the 2nd dot so its all good. thanks!
 
Billet oil cap. I make it. This is the filter location. The cap comes off with a six point socket, which never gets stuck. The drain valve allows quick and easy draining of the housing.


what size socket fits that? and its gotta be a deep socket to clear the drain valve. or do you use a ratcheting box end wrench to remove and then later tighten it back on?
 
5th gen 4 runner - 2014
has anybody replaced or upgraded the plastic "housing" that the oil filter sits in? feels like a metal replacement part would be better?
Genuine Toyota 15620-31060 Oil Filter Cap Assembly
 
what size socket fits that? and its gotta be a deep socket to clear the drain valve. or do you use a ratcheting box end wrench to remove and then later tighten it back on?

It uses a 2 1/2" wheel bearing socket, which as you mention, is very deep to clear the drain valve. It's also inexpensive and very strong.
 
It uses a 2 1/2" wheel bearing socket, which as you mention, is very deep to clear the drain valve. It's also inexpensive and very strong.

how much did it cost you to make yours?

i am so sick of the wrench getting stuck on the filer housing...

this is the wrench i have: https://www.amazon.com/Assenmacher-Specialty-Tools-TOY-640/dp/B0015PK3AG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1470942454&sr=8-1&keywords=toy+640

and i am sick of it... Its annoying when you finish the job and have to fight with the wrench to get it off...

looking into replacing the one i have with this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00XTAGHU0/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_1?pf_rd_p=1944687542&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B0015PK3AG&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=YVM91973J1VYXNR99Q15

which has indexing grooves which will keep it from getting stuck on the plastic housing...
 
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how much did it cost you to make yours?

i am so sick of the wrench getting stuck on the filer housing...

this is the wrench i have: https://www.amazon.com/Assenmacher-...e=UTF8&qid=1470942454&sr=8-1&keywords=toy+640

and i am sick of it... Its annoying when you finish the job and have to fight with the wrench to get it off...

looking into replacing the one i have with this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00XTAGHU..._m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=YVM91973J1VYXNR99Q15

which has indexing grooves which will keep it from getting stuck on the plastic housing...
That is the exact filter wrench I just got. It worked great and it didn't get stuck. The indexing cutouts were spot on. You'll be pleased if you get that one.
 
i am so sick of the wrench getting stuck on the filer housing...

this is the wrench i have: https://www.amazon.com/Assenmacher-Specialty-Tools-TOY-640/dp/B0015PK3AG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1470942454&sr=8-1&keywords=toy+640

and i am sick of it... Its annoying when you finish the job and have to fight with the wrench to get it off...

looking into replacing the one i have with this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00XTAGHU0/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_1?pf_rd_p=1944687542&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B0015PK3AG&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=YVM91973J1VYXNR99Q15

which has indexing grooves which will keep it from getting stuck on the plastic housing...

I have every tool known to man for removing the oil filter housing that Toyota introduced in 2005 on the 2GR-FE engine. This same housing is used on the 5th Gen 4 Runner, only the 4 Runner's is made of plastic vs. metal used on the early 2GR-FE engines. Most of them stick to the housing. Getting the tool off is not really that hard if you know how to get it off. Most people make the mistake of removing the oil filter housing with the tool still attached to the housing.
Once you have the housing loose and spinning off by hand, attach an extension to the filter housing(it may already be there from the initial loosening of the filter housing) and gently rock the tool back and forth using the extension attached to it. The tool will break loose. Remove it and finish spinning off the filter housing by hand.
 
Did my oil change today. Normally I take it to a shop to have done. Today I found the cover plate that covers the oil plug is missing and 2 bolts on my skid plate. Smh...I suppose if you want it done right you gotta do it yourself.


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I have every tool known to man for removing the oil filter housing that Toyota introduced in 2005 on the 2GR-FE engine. This same housing is used on the 5th Gen 4 Runner, only the 4 Runner's is made of plastic vs. metal used on the early 2GR-FE engines. Most of them stick to the housing. Getting the tool off is not really that hard if you know how to get it off. Most people make the mistake of removing the oil filter housing with the tool still attached to the housing.
Once you have the housing loose and spinning off by hand, attach an extension to the filter housing(it may already be there from the initial loosening of the filter housing) and gently rock the tool back and forth using the extension attached to it. The tool will break loose. Remove it and finish spinning off the filter housing by hand.

It's not removing the filter when it gets stuck... it's after tightening it back on... and with aftetmarket skid plates there's tight clearance under there. Last time I did use the rocking trick to remove the wrench and it worked it's just annoying more than anything... because sometimes it gets wedged while rocking it. Idk maybe mine barely made it though qc or something.
 
It's not removing the filter when it gets stuck... it's after tightening it back on... and with aftetmarket skid plates there's tight clearance under there. Last time I did use the rocking trick to remove the wrench and it worked it's just annoying more than anything... because sometimes it gets wedged while rocking it. Idk maybe mine barely made it though qc or something.

Easy-

Once it's tight, put the ratchet in reverse and tap the end of the handle quickly with the palm of your hand. It'll pop right off. It's the quick, sharp tap that gets it.
 
It's not removing the filter when it gets stuck... it's after tightening it back on... and with aftetmarket skid plates there's tight clearance under there. Last time I did use the rocking trick to remove the wrench and it worked it's just annoying more than anything... because sometimes it gets wedged while rocking it. Idk maybe mine barely made it though qc or something.

I have a stock skid plate. It comes off for an oil change. After installing the filter housing, a person can do the rocking thing. I don't put the plate back on 'til I have everything put back together and the tool is off.

Don't know about aftermarket skid plates and how things work with one of these installed.
 
i am so sick of the wrench getting stuck on the filer housing...

this is the wrench i have

QUOTE]

I have the same wrench from Amazon. I just gave it a slight tap on the side of the wrench with a hammer when it is stuck on there and it falls right off.
 
how much did it cost you to make yours?

i am so sick of the wrench getting stuck on the filer housing...

this is the wrench i have: https://www.amazon.com/Assenmacher-Specialty-Tools-TOY-640/dp/B0015PK3AG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1470942454&sr=8-1&keywords=toy+640

and i am sick of it... Its annoying when you finish the job and have to fight with the wrench to get it off...

looking into replacing the one i have with this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00XTAGHU0/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_1?pf_rd_p=1944687542&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B0015PK3AG&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=YVM91973J1VYXNR99Q15

which has indexing grooves which will keep it from getting stuck on the plastic housing...
i had the same issues with the 64mm Assenmacher sticking on the filter housing. tip o' the hat and thanks to [MENTION=107124]Lester Lugnut[/MENTION] for recommending the tool in his post below. it's 64.5mm and a perfect fit. no more sticking whatsoever.
This one works quite nicely:

Private Brand Tools 71113A Toyota/Lexus Oil Filter Housing Tool 6 & 8 Cyl

Not plugging the web site - just pointing out the tool mfg and part number. You can find it on amazon/ebay/lots of places.
 

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