HerT4R
New member
you said "one" a little too many times to understand exactly what you are doing.
also i did read about the inner tube maybe needing to be replaced, did you get a longer one? part number? link?
Oil Change 5th Gen: How To- LOTS of PICS!
- Thread starter Antman
- Start date
you said "one" a little too many times to understand exactly what you are doing.
also i did read about the inner tube maybe needing to be replaced, did you get a longer one? part number? link?
Lester Lugnut
New member
The tool shown by Saker a few posts up will work if the housing does not have the metal index tab on it that the stock 5th Gen 4 Runners come with. If you use the metal oil filter housing in Sakers pic, you will be ok. I have that tool, but after a few uses find I'm not that wild about it. That's just my opinion. Many have it and think otherwise.
If you switch to the metal housing in Sakers photo, you need to transfer the longer metal tube in the original 4 Runner plastic filter housing. That metal housing was designed primarily for use in the 6 cyl 2GR-FE engine that uses a shorter 04152-YZZA1 filter.
If you switch to the metal housing in Sakers photo, you need to transfer the longer metal tube in the original 4 Runner plastic filter housing. That metal housing was designed primarily for use in the 6 cyl 2GR-FE engine that uses a shorter 04152-YZZA1 filter.
Saker
Senior Member
I corrected the the crazy grammar.
Not enough coffee, I guess!
Use the OEM inner tube in the new housing.
Also, according to the Toyota tech, once that is changed, use the OEM filter replacement cartridge as normal.
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The billet cap with EZ Drain and socket sells for $139. Base cap is $99. It's a lifetime part design AND manufactured right here in the USA.
All the issues are eliminated. The socket will never require additional steps to remove.
HerT4R
New member
Link please
northcoast
New member
Thanks to this thread I was able to show the dealer they forgot to put 3 10mm bolts in
That's a bad look for the dealer if you're using a forum thread to show them how to change oil.
northcoast
New member
Forgive me for not reading through the whole thread... am I going to have a hard time with the first oil change, loosening factory torques bolts/filters etc?
Antman
Elite Member
Forgiveness not given.
Go to first page and spend 2 minutes reading the how-to. I already spent the time and effort, all you have to do is click a button. :whipping2
northcoast
New member
Alright, yo.
I read the write-up, and it's great. So thank you.
I like to do my own oil changes, like many others on forums do. But sometimes a truck coming from the factory has things torqued down so much it makes it really unpleasant the first time you change the oil. I've had this twice where the oil filters were on so tight, I had to use the strap-and-bar type wrench that crushes the filters, and I ran into issues such as time crunches and what not because I'm not an expert mechanic with a full suite of tools.
Sometimes, it can save a headache to let the dealer mess with the first one. And who knows....even dealers can over tighten things as well.
This is what I'm trying to determine. I didn't ask where the bolts were, how to change oil, what the torque specs were... anything like that. All I wanted to know was if loosening any of the parts involved was so much of a PITA that I should consider letting the dealer do the first one, allow extra time, or do it during the daytime (I usually do them in the late evening because of time issues) when I can run to the auto parts store for something if I need it etc.
I have a geriatric dad who fell and broke his hip 5 days ago (and I don't live near him), an active 1 year old child, and I'm a rotating shift worker. I'm trying to multi task and plan ahead as best I can given life challenges at the moment.
I've read your write up. The only thing I see is the filter housing that is naturally tight when loosening. I've read through page 3 looking for what others have said or you have said about an initial oil change difficulty. I don't see anything.
I'm not a mechanic either. I thought this was a valid question. I tried a Google search and what I was looking for didn't come up. Maybe I used the wrong key words.
I'll read the rest of the pages as time allows. I probably missed it somewhere, but that happens when you can only read a page here and there.
So forgive me for breaking the cardinal rule on looking for a quick one line answer such as, "No, you should be good the first time", or, "Yeah, the first oil change is rough if you're not a good mechanic."
Cheers.
coltm4
New member
It isn't too bad. Just get the Pennzoil cap wrenchy doohicky and you'll be fine. The worst part for me was the fact TRD skid plate bolts have a reputation for being cross threaded from the factory and requiring some tapping to clean the threads back up. Annoying yes, but not hard to do.
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/d...ck=Search_N0066_1019797_-1&pt=N0066&ppt=C0164
Paulst2419
New member
Pita
Now that I'm out of free oil changes I attempted my first DIY oil change on the 4Runner. I used your tutorial as a reference the entire time and it helped greatly.
After crawling under, I noticed one of the screws for the front skid was missing and one of the 12mm heads was broken off of another one. This had to have been done by Toyota during one of my free changes. Pretty disappointed they didn't take the initiative to replace them.
Once I got to the step to remove the filter housing, even with a 64mm filter wrench that thing did not come off. My dad even crawled under there to give it a shot with no luck. It was definitely torqued past spec. After grunting and groaning for a while I ended up filling up with oil and taking it to Toyota to finish the job, pleading with them not to over-torque. It was a long day but hopefully the next one will go smoothly.
Now that I'm out of free oil changes I attempted my first DIY oil change on the 4Runner. I used your tutorial as a reference the entire time and it helped greatly.
After crawling under, I noticed one of the screws for the front skid was missing and one of the 12mm heads was broken off of another one. This had to have been done by Toyota during one of my free changes. Pretty disappointed they didn't take the initiative to replace them.
Once I got to the step to remove the filter housing, even with a 64mm filter wrench that thing did not come off. My dad even crawled under there to give it a shot with no luck. It was definitely torqued past spec. After grunting and groaning for a while I ended up filling up with oil and taking it to Toyota to finish the job, pleading with them not to over-torque. It was a long day but hopefully the next one will go smoothly.
Great thread! We bought a 2010 used with about 45k miles in dec 2014. We only put about 5k miles on it yearly (on road), so change oil once per year. Last Sept it went well, one skid plate bolt was already sheared off by the last Toyota dealership change. I tightened all the bolts correctly last time, but it felt like someone got under there and over torqued them after I was done when I did an oil change yesterday. All of the bolts looked heavily rusted this time. One of the oil drain cover bolt heads sheared off, so currently the cover has been left off. Not sure why the Toyota bolts under there all seem to be super rusted.
Has anyone listed the bolt part numbers for the oil change procedure? (edit) - found it:
SKID PLATE BOLT 9008011373
LOWER COVER BOLT 9010906330
I did clean them up as best as possible and put on anti-seize this time. Hopefully it helps with the next change. Been changing oil for 30 years on my own cars, I have never seen a better attempt by a manufacturer to get people into the dealer for a basic maintenance item so they can try to sell other service items. Good job Toyota.
Has anyone listed the bolt part numbers for the oil change procedure? (edit) - found it:
SKID PLATE BOLT 9008011373
LOWER COVER BOLT 9010906330
I did clean them up as best as possible and put on anti-seize this time. Hopefully it helps with the next change. Been changing oil for 30 years on my own cars, I have never seen a better attempt by a manufacturer to get people into the dealer for a basic maintenance item so they can try to sell other service items. Good job Toyota.
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Hey guys I'm not sure if anyone has posted anything about this filter wrench but it works great. I thought this would be a good thread to mention it.
https://www.amazon.com/Motivx-Tools...automotive&vehicleId=1&vehicleType=automotive
I was using the Assenmacher filter wrench but it always got stuck and I would have to pry it loose with a flat head screwdriver so I decided to try a different filter wrench. The Motivx works great. It slides on and off the housing without sticking.
https://www.amazon.com/Motivx-Tools...automotive&vehicleId=1&vehicleType=automotive
I was using the Assenmacher filter wrench but it always got stuck and I would have to pry it loose with a flat head screwdriver so I decided to try a different filter wrench. The Motivx works great. It slides on and off the housing without sticking.
I have the same wrench. I've only used it once, but it worked great. It was a perfect fit and as you stated, it didn't get stuck on. Sure makes the process a bit more of a pleasure.
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