Oops, I ScReWeD up

[GrantK]

I finally got my door speakers installed and my DQXS and JL amp (900watts) temporarily strapped to the back of the rear seats. So, last night I broke out the test CD and oscilloscope and set the input and output levels for the DQXS and amp. Then today I got the SPL meter and started setting the DQXS equalizer. I recorded the SPL readings, charted them on a spread sheet and made the changes. Then I started recording a 2nd group of SPL readings when all of a sudden, the stereo shut off!!!

I had the system running too long without the engine running and discharged the battery to the point where the starter just makes a rapid clicking. :doh: :sobbing:

I know better!!! VERY STUPID OF ME!!!:redbrick: :ybrick:

The charger is currently running at a 7amp rate and once it drops to the 2-3 amp range I start the truck and let it run for 30min.

I really need to get off my lazy :moon: and finish installing my 2nd battery.

 

[mikebontoft]

oops. I've done that before.

 

[phillyd2]

Don't understand most of what you posted :dance: but how long was too long? Factory battery?

 

[jangoforhire]

Wow, how long were your running it for?

I used to have 3 Alpine PDX's (Total of 2000 watts) in my old T100 and would run it all the time with the truck off and can't remember ever having a problem.


I did have an optima yellow top and 20 Farad cap though...

 

[GrantK]

Yes, factory battery.

I guestimate total running time of the stereo without starting to be at least 4hrs, with about 1 hr at nearly full volume. The amp is fused at 60 amps, the head unit at 10 amps and the DQXS at 2 amps plus there is another amp or so be drawn by the interior lights and whatever else gets power with the key in the AUX position. Add it all up and that is a lot of juice being sucked out of the battery.

 

[Vegas]

I finally got my door speakers installed and my DQXS and JL amp (900watts) temporarily strapped to the back of the rear seats. So, last night I broke out the test CD and oscilloscope and set the input and output levels for the DQXS and amp. Then today I got the SPL meter and started setting the DQXS equalizer. I recorded the SPL readings, charted them on a spread sheet and made the changes. Then I started recording a 2nd group of SPL readings when all of a sudden, the stereo shut off!!!

I had the system running too long without the engine running and discharged the battery to the point where the starter just makes a rapid clicking. :doh: :sobbing:

I know better!!! VERY STUPID OF ME!!!:redbrick: :ybrick:

The charger is currently running at a 7amp rate and once it drops to the 2-3 amp range I start the truck and let it run for 30min.

I really need to get off my lazy :moon: and finish installing my 2nd battery.

Yeah no clue what any of that means... But I really wish you were my neighbor so I could have you stop over for wiring help and borrow some of those fancey meters thingies.

 

[mikebontoft]

4 hours, 1 hour at full volume? any pissed neighbors? lol

 

[Hellamatic]

I did the same thing when I tinted the windows on my Tundra - rolling the windows up and down 10-15 times each was enough to kill the battery. It never took a proper charge again:crybaby:

 

[GrantK]

Yeah no clue what any of that means... But I really wish you were my neighbor so I could have you stop over for wiring help and borrow some of those fancey meters thingies.

I go through a l-o-n-g process to setup my stereo.
The oscilloscope lets me look at the signal at different points in the chain of headunit-equalizer-amp-speakers and watch for clipping (distortion). I first connect the oscilloscope to the DQXS outputs, turn down the the input and output on the DQXS equalizer, then play a 1Khz tone at 0db from a CD (50Hz for the subs). This lets me set the output of the head unit to just below it's clipping point. Once I have this set, I repeat the process adjusting first the DQXS input then the output for maximum without clipping. Next I put the oscilloscope on the speaker lines from the amp and do the same. This optimizes all the input and outputs for maximum level without clipping. It takes awhile, going back and forth, back and forth to double check everything but I think it's worth the effort.

Once I have the inputs and outputs optimized, I use the SPL (sound pressure meter) while playing filtered pink noise. This is pink noise filtered in to 31, 1/3 octave bands. This lets me check the audio level of each band and adjust the DQXS equalizer to get all the levels as close to the same as possible. This is done first for the front, then the back, then the subs. Once done I have my system set to produce as accurately as possible what is being played. I save these settings and then use the head unit to add minor tweaks to tailor the sound to my listening preferences and to allow for road noise.

Since I haven't installed my subs yet, I could only set the equalizer for the doors and the input/output levels for the subs. I'll need to set the equalizer bands all over again once the subs are installed.

4 hours, 1 hour at full volume? any pissed neighbors? lol

It's probably a good thing it's winter so everyone's windows are closed and I had my garage door closed as well. Having the speakers disconnected while at full volume so I could take readings probably kept things quieter than the power consumption implied.

 

[mikebontoft]

oh, well disconnect speakers help. lol.

My process is very simple. "eh that sounds nice" haha

 

[westwind77]

4 hours, 1 hour at full volume? any pissed neighbors? lol

Ha, I was going to say and you can still hear?!

 

[jangoforhire]

Yes, factory battery.

I guestimate total running time of the stereo without starting to be at least 4hrs, with about 1 hr at nearly full volume. The amp is fused at 60 amps, the head unit at 10 amps and the DQXS at 2 amps plus there is another amp or so be drawn by the interior lights and whatever else gets power with the key in the AUX position. Add it all up and that is a lot of juice being sucked out of the battery.

Ah, yes. That'll do it haha.

 

[Bay33saw]

I go through a l-o-n-g process to setup my stereo.
The oscilloscope lets me look at the signal at different points in the chain of headunit-equalizer-amp-speakers and watch for clipping (distortion). I first connect the oscilloscope to the DQXS outputs, turn down the the input and output on the DQXS equalizer, then play a 1Khz tone at 0db from a CD (50Hz for the subs). This lets me set the output of the head unit to just below it's clipping point. Once I have this set, I repeat the process adjusting first the DQXS input then the output for maximum without clipping. Next I put the oscilloscope on the speaker lines from the amp and do the same. This optimizes all the input and outputs for maximum level without clipping. It takes awhile, going back and forth, back and forth to double check everything but I think it's worth the effort.

Once I have the inputs and outputs optimized, I use the SPL (sound pressure meter) while playing filtered pink noise. This is pink noise filtered in to 31, 1/3 octave bands. This lets me check the audio level of each band and adjust the DQXS equalizer to get all the levels as close to the same as possible. This is done first for the front, then the back, then the subs. Once done I have my system set to produce as accurately as possible what is being played. I save these settings and then use the head unit to add minor tweaks to tailor the sound to my listening preferences and to allow for road noise.

Since I haven't installed my subs yet, I could only set the equalizer for the doors and the input/output levels for the subs. I'll need to set the equalizer bands all over again once the subs are installed.

It's probably a good thing it's winter so everyone's windows are closed and I had my garage door closed as well. Having the speakers disconnected while at full volume so I could take readings probably kept things quieter than the power consumption implied.

:wow2::jaw drop::hatsoff:

 

[PopsSmith]

Sounds like you are hifi guy. Got any good headphones? Just a heads up, alternators aren't designed to do a full charge, so charge your battery via a good charger. It'll save your battery in the long run. I destroyed a optima battery by not charging via a stand alone charger after letting it drain a few times. Other than that, I commend you on your stereo setup. Science Rules FTW.

 

[TN_4runner]

I go through a l-o-n-g process to setup my stereo.
The oscilloscope lets me look at the signal at different points in the chain of headunit-equalizer-amp-speakers and watch for clipping (distortion). I first connect the oscilloscope to the DQXS outputs, turn down the the input and output on the DQXS equalizer, then play a 1Khz tone at 0db from a CD (50Hz for the subs). This lets me set the output of the head unit to just below it's clipping point. Once I have this set, I repeat the process adjusting first the DQXS input then the output for maximum without clipping. Next I put the oscilloscope on the speaker lines from the amp and do the same. This optimizes all the input and outputs for maximum level without clipping. It takes awhile, going back and forth, back and forth to double check everything but I think it's worth the effort.

Once I have the inputs and outputs optimized, I use the SPL (sound pressure meter) while playing filtered pink noise. This is pink noise filtered in to 31, 1/3 octave bands. This lets me check the audio level of each band and adjust the DQXS equalizer to get all the levels as close to the same as possible. This is done first for the front, then the back, then the subs. Once done I have my system set to produce as accurately as possible what is being played. I save these settings and then use the head unit to add minor tweaks to tailor the sound to my listening preferences and to allow for road noise.

Since I haven't installed my subs yet, I could only set the equalizer for the doors and the input/output levels for the subs. I'll need to set the equalizer bands all over again once the subs are installed.

It's probably a good thing it's winter so everyone's windows are closed and I had my garage door closed as well. Having the speakers disconnected while at full volume so I could take readings probably kept things quieter than the power consumption implied.

And I thought my bass and treble adjustments were kick :dammit:

 

[GrantK]

Sounds like you are hifi guy. Got any good headphones? Just a heads up, alternators aren't designed to do a full charge, so charge your battery via a good charger. It'll save your battery in the long run. I destroyed a optima battery by not charging via a stand alone charger after letting it drain a few times. Other than that, I commend you on your stereo setup. Science Rules FTW.

Thanks for the heads up. Yes I'm an audiophile. I haven't purchased headphones in a long, long time. I still think my AKG 240 phones are hard to beat. There are probably better ones now but be sure and check out AKG phones in a top end stereo shop.

 

[GrantK]

I’ve had a request for more details on my speaker install. Unfortunately, I didn’t think anyone would be interested so I didn’t take pics.

Here’s what I did for the door speakers:
The basic setup is inner door sheet metal, trimmed BoomMat, custom speaker mounts, foam gasket supplied with speakers, speakers, regular home door foam weather stripping, door panel.

First I created custom mounts out of two layers of ¾” particle board to raise the speakers enough to make sure they won’t hit the windows when down. These will be replaced with ones made of plywood (summer?) because one developed a crack when tightening the hardware. I cut out the wood to match the doors and speakers, glued the layers together making a 1.5” tall speaker mount, drilled holes for the speaker mounting screws and more to mount them to the door. For the speaker I’m using #6 1.5” screws and T-nuts slightly counter sunk. For the door hardware, I removed the existing plastic screw hardware and am using 5/16-18 carriage bolts (installed from the back) with Nylock nuts and washers in the existing holes, all are stainless. I coated the heads of the carriage bolts in Liquid Electrical Tape to reduce any chaffing where they go through the existing holes in the doors. The wood mounts also got 2 coats of wood hardener to protect them from moisture and a coat of black spray paint as a final protection. Next I pre-trimmed the back off the BoomMats making tubes that would extend a little deeper than the speakers.

The install:
I ran wires from the amps to the door wire connectors and again from inside the doors to where the speakers are using the existing speaker wire to get from the cabin to inside the door, soldering and crimping on terminal lugs that matched the speakers. Then I applied a little double sided cellophane tape to the door to hold trimmed BoomMat in place while I bolted the wood speaker mounts to the door. Then using an Exacto knife, I trimmed off the bottom half of the BoomMat tube flush with the door. The BoomMat now provides a cushion between the door and wood mount to prevent vibration as well as protecting the speaker from water dripping on them. Next came the speakers with their supplied thin foam gasket. I then trimmed the existing speaker ring that’s part of the door panel to be a little higher than the speaker, applied the home door weather stripping to the outer edge of the speaker’s ring to provide a gasket between the speaker and the door panel. Remounted the door panel, all nice and neat.

[EDIT]
Almost forgot, the front speakers are Focal PC690 6X9 and the rear door are Focal PC165 6.5", subs are a pair of Alpine SWR-843D (once I get them installed that is).
[/EDIT]

 

[PopsSmith]

Thanks for the heads up. Yes I'm an audiophile. I haven't purchased headphones in a long, long time. I still think my AKG 240 phones are hard to beat. There are probably better ones now but be sure and check out AKG phones in a top end stereo shop.

The AKG k240 are still pretty amazing. I have had a pair of those and go grab another pair. K701 are pretty nice just need a decent amp to power them. How did the tuning go?

 

[GrantK]

How did the tuning go?

Tedious, but done for now. The sound is fantastic, crisp, clear and nicely balanced, needs a little more on the bottom end which the subs (I hope) will solve. A pleasure to listen to when compared to the factory setup. I just sat in the truck idling, listening to different songs enjoying how it sounds. Of course, I'll need to re-tune the bottom end once I install the subs. Which knowing me, will turn into re-tuning the whole system end to end just to make sure. Yes, I'm very picky (anal retentive) about how my music sounds.